N15class

The end is getting closer. Today a bit more tidying, and transfer application. I have numbered it 899, which as far as I can see was the last to be withdrawn. I will now give it a few days to settle, then give it a coat of varnish. Once that is done I can get on an do the cleaning, floor and partitions. Maybe even some salmon pink inside. Here's the first side. No the second side. This is about as good as I think I can get it. I dislike painting, it seems to take up far more time than some of the construction.

Thanks this was very useful.

Still a little in catch up mode from when rmweb was down. First part that's really been made, the ash pan. First is the ash pan then sitting under the firebox spacer where it will belong. I then realised I would need some sides for part of the firebox. Again the first picture shows them net to the spacer, followed by where they'll be against the frames. Smoke box next. The front and rear were cut out together, and the wrapper was cut from 010” sheet. The boiler was next up, this is actually mark 2, I managed to roll it the wrong way first time. Took me a while to figure out why it was to short and to large in diameter. I'm a bit slow sometimes. I was cross with myself for making the frames flat topped and not more prototypically. Só tô try and remedy this I cut some half moons which I hope will solder to the frames, the over size horn guides will aid by reinforcing the joint. Some more parts were cut, these are the brake lever supports and the hand brake levers. The power brake levers on the other side will be done when I can measure the length. The dummy compensation beams for the bogie were also part of the session. Here they are just cut out. The levers and brackets filed up. The beam also filed.

Another job I thought might be interesting, the frame spacers. The first job is to work out how wide a strip of metal required. This is done by starting with your back to back measurement. The from this deduct any side play you want, any washers, the thickness of your bearings or hornblocks, and of coarse the thickness of your two side frames. Then cut your strip to this measurement. Hope this is helpful to you.

The second side has had the black done, and a little other touching up. The first side has had quite a lot of retouching, I think it's looking better. I will check tomorrow with fresh eyes. Now I am thinking of transfers, I know it will have GWR on the duckets, luggage and guard on the doors. But does anyone know if it would have crest applied with the 22 livery.

I've done some more to this. I've done the second side in yellow/gold, it is an improvement but not as good as I hoped. The other side I've completed the black. And there are a couple of bits I should of researched before starting not after. I need to do some more tidying up with the yellow and brown. I was pleased the way the black went on much better than I'd thought. I think in the end it will be passable at normal viewing distance.

Here's a very short piece on using a piercing saw. Ive started a new scratch build project, so I thought a few how to videos might be of interest.

This is a bit of a catch up. So this is as the pictures were uploaded not as I made the parts. The sides cut out, the height above the door still needs to lowered. Cab front and rear were joined and then worked on. Here are the parts so far. Footplate was cut out. I did get the front cut out slightly wrong but it won't be seen in the final form. The drop irons and the buffer planks were next, except the buffer planks are a little camera shy. Frames and splashers filed up. Then the frame spacers. From left to right. Cylinders, motion bracket, firebox bottom, bogie mount, and rear fixing. The front and rear steps, along with the buffer planks. Finally for now the front and rear guard irons.

It was very simple, sort of goes with me. It's cut from 010" sheet, the loop at the top starts out as a 1mm strip that curves out wider. Then just a little oblong tab that solders to the splasher, and the top was rolled around a suitable drill bit.

The lining had begun. I started with s yellow, golden colour, but against the cream it seems almost invisible, at least in the light I took the photo. I was happier with the finish on the cream, I expect I should of given it a coat of gloss varnish as the brown is a Matt finish. Anyway, I added the black to a portion of it. I need to sort out the lining on the brown, I'm not happy now the blacks on. I think I can tidy it using a bit of brown to thin the yellow down.

This is where we are with the 0395.

That must be the one they lost in Pernambuco.

This part of the build is to join together the parts that need to be doubled up. These are soldered together then the drawing is glued on with pritt stick( other versions are available). The frames are joined. After glueing the drawing a quick check to see if it has stretched or twisted. The other parts were done in the same manner. I did find some Four Track horn guides and blocks. Which will work nicely. I have realised that I forgot to allow for the frames behind the wheels. This may be added later. I also have some lovely cast brass springs, which seem to fit very well. Shhh I bought them sold as for GWR locos, so just keep quiet about it. Finally parts that I managed lose, so re cut. The tank tops and inner sides. Might well need a driving wheel cut out. Piercing saw out next t think.

Here's a resurrection of the thread, I was asked how I cut the blanks for my scratch building. Thinks have moved on a little from the first post on here, so here's an update. Hope it's helpful. By the way I'm cutting 010" nickel silver sheet, it works well with thinner sheet and is fine on 018" sheet too. I've not tried thicker.

This is where I have got to so far. Been a bit of a pain, SWMBO is only working half days this month although it is nice we get more time together my work time is reduce. I have discovered another more major problem I have no small BR totems for the Ivatt, so have ordered some from Fox. I am hoping these do not take more than 4 weeks to get here. I have some LNER Fox transfers for the V3 I have never actually built enough north eastern to buy my usual HMRS ones. A bit of a photo overload I am afraid. There is still a lot of tidying up to do, and a few bits I am unhappy with. The grey and cream look very white. I may have another look at it. The Ivatt is first up. Now the V3 That's all for now. I am hoping to get the transfers and the varnish on the V3 next week. No work tomorrow off to the seaside for lunch. Then I think it is time to start reassembly of the Frames etc. By the way who know what colours the inside of of the cabs? I am thinking black and cream waist height on the sides and front.

Just a quick update. I have painted the loco and now will give it a few days to cure. Then I will close the doors and put the aircon on and do the lining on this and the V3. Here it is in black. A bit of a picture overload. But it's easier than typing.

Finally finished all the constructional work. Well almost I have not added the covers to the firebox shoulders. The jobs since the last update First off was to add the firebox washout plugs, no holes or plugs were in the kit so I fortunately had some nice brass ones. The rear buffers were the first of the white metal castings to be added. The top feed was then soldered in place with some copper wire for the pipes. The smokebox door was next, the lamp irons handrail and dart were soldered on but I needed to use epoxy resin, as were the steam pipes. I needed something with a little filling capability. The Back head was finished as far as this one goes. Not the best I have seen but once inside it will look the part I think. I may add a little more detail to the cab after painting, but we will see. Here are the three main bits just resting together I wanted to get an overall picture to see if I had forgotten anything obvious. As you will see from above I had forgotten something. They will be added tomorrow and finish the the cleaning ready for the painting to start on Monday. Lets hope the painting goes as well as the the V3. Then it's time to sit down and do lots of lining.

I started todays session by fitting the hand rails to the smokebox. After marking out and drilling new holes for the knobs. I filled the etched ones with brass wire soldered in and filed smooth. The can floor was next. After trimming to fit the packers were soldered underneath, unfortunately the wheels rubbed on it, so after rereading the instructions to see what I had missed. They just say put the floor in out of level to miss them. Not liking this I cut a slot and added a step. I also fitted the base for the reverser. Does anyone know where the brake standard goes? There is nothing about detailing in the unstructions. There was a half etch around them, but no frames in the kit or mention in the pages of wisdom. So I bend and soldered some 0.45mm wire to go around them. Whistle and safety valve were straight forward. Next I fitted the ejector and pipe work to the left hand side. Unfortunately I needed to remove the tank vent. It may need adjusting before it is refitted, but that is Monday now. As BR used to say "we are getting there" I have sorted out the steam pipes. They needed a lot of work with low melt solder I will glue them on at the end of the soldering.

Some more done on the Ivatt, not as much as I hoped but not much time At the bench. I had to make some washout plugs for the boiler, which have duly been added. The method is on my Scratch building thread. I also remade the tank breather pipes. I started off by doing the one I had to remove, but then the other one look odd. At the same time I added the brackets to hold them to the front spectacle plate. I also made a start on getting the backhead looking a little better than the everything cast on jobby I started with. I still need to added the regulator and the brake levers. It is not the best back head but a lot better than it was. I am sure it will look good once it is fitted. More soon not that there is a lot more to do.

I decided to be a good boy and try and get the Ivatt and the V3 finished. After being disheartened buy the wrong castings I am now going to knuckle down and frget the episode for now. All started well I made up the two air vents, they just need a clip to hold them to the spectacle plate. I made up the two missing tank stays. they are pretty close and when under paint will be fine. The tank gauge was also added. Then things go down hill again, I get the chimney and dome out. The chimney is OK and with a little cleaning is fine. But the dome was terrible, very pitted and not cast well around the base. So out with the wet and dry to clean it enough to solder. I then did a couple of repairs using high melting point. Then with scrapers, files and wet and dry I got it looking correct. I see that Laurie is at Guildex so I will have a word with him then. And buy my G6 casting. There is a little more brass work to do on the body, quite a bit to do in the cab, and then on with the white metal castings, not too many of those now.

I think you will also find apart from being an old She'd master kit, it comes from a blown up Jidenco 4mm kit. Same heritage as my BEATTIE well tank.

Battle has began, after getting the drawing to scale by sizing on the printer I printed out enough copies to cut up and to have a master. I check that they all have come of the printer the same size. I have known them to reduce across the width of the paper. I did do a wagon drawing where the height was reduced by 2mm but, the length was correct. Next part, to cut out the major parts from the drawings, side tanks an cab, splashers, main frames. I must do the front profile drawing, ready for the cab front and rear sheets. I also cut out some 010" sheet for the body and some 018" for the frames. As I had a spare half hour I did some cutting. Now I have a T1 loco kit. To the left are the frames, with the spacer strip in the centre. I have a feeling I should of made it 25mm not 24. We will see later. At the are the cab and bunker fronts and rears, all correct width but over long. The splasher outers are there on the right. In the centre, the footplate is cut to size. Above the footplate are the two cab, bunker and tank sides. I did forget to put in the photo the combined tank inners and tops.

The horn blocks need to free to move, but you need a rod to bare down on the top of the axle in the centre. This keeps the ride height correct and allows the wheels to rock.

Thanks, I think mine will be black too.

I think we have made a land mark with this. The Frames as far as I can tell are finished except for painting, and reassembly. the jobs done today were adding the white metal castings, this was fairly straight forward apart from the main springs. These were a squeeze between not fowling the compensation or the wheels. You will also see in the pictures the centralising springs for the ponies, these also apply a little downward pressure. I just need to do a bit more cleaning and smoothing of ant spots of solder etc. Here are the parts apart from the valve gear that co to make up the bottom half of this loco. The next two pictures are of the finished ponies, one of which was changed after I was given some information from Bill Bedford. I changed one to a swing link pony, I just hope my representation will not look to bad under the depth of the frames. You will also see the bit of tube soldered on top to mate with the centralising spring.