Rowsley17D

Those tie-bars in the four foot look an interesting feature. To stop the gauge spread on tight radius?

Relisted still a Class 37.

I used Evo-Stik as it allows for adjustments before it goes off.

In the interests of providing information on close coupling to the avid readers of this thread, I took my life into my hands and used a scalpel and burr to remove the mounting ribs of the coupling. Before after unscrewing the coupling block. After removing the ribs and bush for the screw. The platform behind the headstock needs to be removed to the width of the Symoba slider but I forgot to take a photo. The slider needs to be glued to the coach floor so that the standard length pocket front projects 0.5mm in front of the headstock. The rigid coupling bar is the Symoba screw-type drawbar #4. Here's how they look when another has been done. On a slight curve. Edit Supplies of Symoba couplings seem hard to get especially the screw-type drawbar.

I see our narrow boat is now down to £50. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115504620829? and I've been offered another 5% off too. Pity I model in 4mm scale. I also don't have a canal.

Hmm, I could be tempted by that Class 1102 myself, but they were gone by 1932. Rule 1?

The outer links are Smith's 3-links, the inner two from the now extinct Exactoscale products.

If the old coupling mounting ribs are removed the Symoba ones can be made to sit 5mm higher by gluing them to the coach floor. One would need to be careful not to break the brake shoe hangers though.

I hope that doesn't get you into any trouble with the good doctor.

Thought better of gluing the couplings into place in case things didn't work out, so I attached them with Black Tac. It's a bit dark where my smallest radius curves are but no problems getting round.

Dug out my pack of Symoba couplings and placed them on the ribs of the coupling mounts and connected them with the screw-type drawbar. Will try gluing them in place and will try out on curves.

Here're 2 Hatton's coaches with 2 Hornby Roco-type couplings. They look a bit bulky, though. Negotiates 26" curves.

PM sent.

I used "3-links" in mine but there're 4 links in them! I've used the hooks on the coach ends.

Now down to about 20+ motors. The 2 "as new ones" have gone.

Two of my latest ModelU purchases have had their legs amputated even though I was being careful!

Nice station building, based on Hellifield I assume?

I don't know anything about the Hornby N gauge range but I doubt the RRP was £100.

In the absence of scans and consultant appointments I adapted the Scalescenes' kit Low Relief House Fronts & Shops to make an even narrower building to fit the backscene. They are the ones behind the goods yard office. Now I know how to modify the kit, I'll build a couple more perhaps with unmodified houses to break up the shops.

Looking good, Graham.

In that case my D526 (a Stevenson's kit) sits too low at 46mm. The Ratio D487 is bang on 48mm. The Hatton's 6-wheeler comes out at about 46mm.

Here you go @Nick Holliday a couple of photos of Hatton's generics with first of all with MR D487 low roofed suburban all third and with MR D526 Composite Brake.

So sad. I always made a beeline for their stall at shows. They will be greatly missed.

In my childhood Derbyshire village we used to say, live in Hope, die in Castleton!

A brief health update for those who follow such things. I saw the liver consultant today following the ending of the chemo. He said while a op was possible, since the cancer is in a couple of lymph nodes although much reduced like the tumour in the liver, the chance of cancer returning was 80% plus the op itself would be quite major. Had there not been cancer in the lymph nodes the odds were 50%. The other options were continued chemo or do nothing. My gut reaction would be to have more chemo. Another scan is in the offing and an appointment with the oncologist awaits.