billbedford

i.materialize polyamide and Shapeways WSF are exactly the same material done on very similar machines.

Interesting -- The original meaning of FUD was Fear, Uncertainty and Doubt, and you do it so well.............

One question:- If these models have been designed for 00 the solebars will be narrower than scale, how well do any of these wagons buffer up to locos and brake vans fitted with chaldron buffers?

Don't use whitemetal. It has been tried and bends if the loco is not left upright. You can use FUD to cast in brass, if you can find a caster to do it for you. I suspect he will insist that you fill one of his flasks before he'll agree to do it.

Bill Bedford has never done a CCT underframe etch, so where your fantasy of my think came from I have no idea.

If you are going to use a transverser mount it on good quality drawer slides.

It is 3D printed in nylon so it is relatively flexible and very tough. The bogies are flexible enough not to need compensation or springing. I have a whole range of the underframes, too many to list here, and I'm working towards providing bogies for them. At the moment I am making them all to order, so I can incorporate variations in eg stepboards, and underframe equipment for restaurant cars. The price is £30 with bogies £20 without.

I don't have a plan but I have a black one of these:-

Every once in a while a modeller comes up with a brilliant idea to improve finescale loco kits. All he has to do, he thinks, is to make a kit which consists of exact scale replicas of all the parts of his chosen machine and people will flock to buy it. So he invests in a new computer, CAD software, buys some GA drawings from the NRM and spends a not inconsiderable time drawing all the components at full scale. In time etchings and other components are produced, a test build is done and photos taken of it. And eventually boxes are filled, orders received, cheques cashed and everyone is happy. Except..... Read the rest of the entry

Coplalux and Power Flow seem to be very similar products - Basically Hydrobromic acid in a soap carrier.

Nothing much removes that stuff. It's best not to let it form in the first place. What I do is put the model into a mug or bowl or such and pour boiling water, straight from the kettle, over it. Then let it drain while it still hot.

Ultrasonics will only remove surface dirt, they cannot remove tarnish. Alkali solutions can tarnish brass, washing soda, for instance will turn brass black after about 20 minutes.

This is not a good idea. Because the whole sieve will vibrate the legs will act as mini-jack hammers and pit the tank. it is much better to spend a few minutes making wire hooks so that small pieces can be suspended in the middle of the tank.

There a couple of place in the States that have announce something similar Ring Engineering -- check their prices Railflyer

The definitive (only?) article on push-pull coaches is in Model Railway Journal No 32, summer 1990.

'Corse if you know what the radius of the radial axle should be then you can do things prototypically............ What you want is Baldry's Rule

???? FD is exactly the same material as FUD except printed at a coarser resolution.

Is he fishing?

Do you really think this will make a difference to the way the model is designed?

The jig is there only for mounting the first wheel, you still need an ordinary back to back gauge for the other wheel. The wheels have to be glued onto the axles, my preference would be a flexible toughened cyano-acrylate similar to Hafix. Though there are cheaper versions around. A retainer such as loctite 603 may also work. though I haven't tested it.

The real question for anyone contemplating add on part for this loco is ;- Just how many variations is Bachmann going to produce?

Mike G was almost right, but gets no prizes because he should know that I don't do wonky wheels......... It is a wheel setting jig for my new range of P4 wheels. First you insert an axle and push it home:- Then you gently place the wheel over the axle end, ensuring the key in the wheel engages with the keyway in the axle:- The wheel is held against the top surface of the jig and glued onto the axle. There are nickel axle caps to fill the space between the face of the wheel and the end of the axle. This jig will ensure that the first wheel on the axle is properly square, the other wheel is fitted using a back to back gauge. Of course you should not forget to add bearings gearboxes inside motion etc. before fixing the second wheel.......

If you weren't fussed about the the floor of the wagon you could have just turned it upside down and saved your self some work.......... The buffer height once everything is finished should be 14mm +/- 0.5 mm. Gauges for buffer height etc. can be found here

For things like valve gear parts that have holes in them, you can string them on a fine wire hooks that can be suspended from a heavier wire that is laid across the top of the tank. It is a good idea to leave space around each component.