RexAshton

I've used two pack epoxy mixed with Liquid Lead very successfully if that helps.

Peco don't do a code 100 scissors. I believe Shionohara may.

Assuming you're working in 00 the Dapol village church kit has been used many times over the years for this. It's inexpensive and easy to butcher.

Thumbs up from me for glueing the plan down and laying the track on top. I've done that more than once with great success using spray adhesive.

Could be slop in the coupling rods due to wear possibly.

Greenscene sell plastic coated soft iron wire that is very easy to work with.

Can't find OAB but does this help? On second thoughts these probably won't help unless you are prepared to do some cutting.

No point in arguing. More important things to do.

By design a CDU discharges instantly the circuit is made. This is why they protect solenoid motors from burning out. The residual voltage is less that 1v until the circuit is opened at which point (no pun intended) the capacitor recharges generally in about a second. It will fire up to 6 solenoids instantly not sequentially.

Just once as the system is fed by a cd unit

High Level Kits Jinty chassis is probably the best one out there although it won't be the cheapest.

GoPro has wifi.

Thanks Pete. That's a big help.

I'm building a chassis for an O2 in 7mm scale. The loco will be finished in Olive green. I can tell from photos that the wheels for a malachite green one should be green but can anyone tell me what colour they should be for an olive green loco. I've searched Google but the photos I can find are indistinct. Thanks.

Butanone and a big brush works a treat for me. Make sure you have plenty of ventilation though!

Greenscene do a latex product called Texture Bark. You need to apply several coats but it works quite well.

Can't guarantee the band colours from a photo but if they are brown, black, gold and silver Google says 1 Ohm. They almost certainly both the same.

I realised that and I've exited my post accordingly.

Dapol don't make a class 08 in N gauge.

Yes. The more teeth per inch the better.

Maybe look here. I think it used code 80 rail but that wouldn't matter I don't think as I believe the overall height of both 55 and 80 is the same.

I used a piercing saw with a fine blade on my code 55 N gauge points but take your time and let the saw do all the work.

Unless you're very carefully pinning the track could easily distort it leading to much cursing later. I've always used Evo-Stick. It's much easier to lay smooth curves and doesn't distort the track and yes you can adjust the track and if need be list it relay it.

You could but don't pack it too tightly. The motor needs to keep cool particularly as polystyrene doesn't like heat.

While it's important to clean the track many modellers will suggest it's at least as important to ensure that all wheels are clean including and especially those that are fitted to rolling stock, tenders or any other unpowered wheels on locos. When I first started modelling in S4 it became very noticeable that the build up of crud and gunge was enough to cause derailments and when I'd gone through and cleaned all my wheels thoroughly not only did the derailments disappeared track cleaning became much less of an issue. I had a layout at the last 4 day York Exhibition and only cleaned the track during setup. Never needed to touch it all weekend and also noticed that any derailments were generally operator error.