RexAshton

IIRC Scaleway is bullhead so the two would have completely different rail sections so rail joiners could be a problem. They are also very different in appearance.

You'd be better off with a twisted elastic band than a K's anything. Check out the High level Kits website as others have suggested. When you've tried a proper motor and gearbox you might feel you need to replace all your others though.

Try Railtec. I've successfully removed Bachmann lettering by LIGHTLY rubbing with a cotton bud soaked in IPA. Take your time and try to keep within the outline of the existing lettering..

Could be a manufacturing fault which may explain why Hattons had it as secondhand. I'm not familiar with V trains chassis but would it help running if you fitted in place of the centre axle so it's not leading into pointwork etc?

Olivias will remotor the Heljan Beyer Garratt and give you a shiney new 12 month guarantee.

Olivias Trains have commissioned their own range of superior motors for most of the Heljan range including the class 14. Click here.

I'll be using Alan Gibson plungers. They're very effective but might be a tight squeeze if you're working in 00.

Judith Edge do one. Scroll down about half way down the page.

Can you file the rear chassis/ web spacer (part 28) back allowing you to slide the front of the chassis in and drop the rear end in? It looks like it might clear. I'm building one in S4 but I'm not using tension lock couplings.

My Tool Shed have great prices on Bahco needle files.

I have a Dapol 27 that's an absolute belter.

I've used this system for a while with no problems. I haven't encountered your problem but the ribbon cable does need to be pushed firmly into the socket ensuring that it fully engaged.

I think I have a set somewhere. I'll dig them out and PM you a set. As I recall they're a bit basic but better than nothing.

They look as though they've ben scratch built using Ratio GWR 4 wheel coach sides and maybe Eggerbahn bogies. The livery look as though its probably freelance. Nice coaches.

DaVinchi Resolve is excellent although a bit complicated initially. It needs a pretty powerful PC to run it though.

There's loads on eBay

I use one of these for everything. I only speak as a satisfied customer but it wipes the floor with my previous (Antex) soldering station.

We also do a charity fund raiser for our local hospice. Please click here for info.

If you contact Steve at Railtec he may be able to tell you when they'll be available or you can click on the 'notify me' link on the site.

Worth a look here?

Try here

Ir you are only looking to remotor you might not need to seperating the body an chassis buy you will need to unsolder the motor wires, You can then remove the motor and its mounting plate by remove the mounting screw. The slidebar covers just clip on and the cab is refitted by gently relocating the three clips into the holes in the chassis and clipping back into position. It's easier to locate the rear one first.

I did this mod on one some years ago. It worked a treat but I did need to make a brass mount to allow adjustment of the meshing. Simple flat brass shim plate with a slightly oversize hole for the gear to go through (to allow movement and two slots for the motor screws to allow adjustment of the meshing, When I did mine the 1015 wasn't available so I used one of the small open frame Mashimas (9 16 I think) which was barely visible once the cab was on. The other much better but more expensive option would be the HIgh Level Kits replacement chassis kit which puts the motor in the tank and provides a fully detailed cab and backhead.

Rough running can sometimes be cured by disabling DC operation in CV29. There's a useful calculator here.

There are more pictures here of the layout I got the idea from.