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RexAshton

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Everything posted by RexAshton

  1. RexAshton
    Have a look at Rumney Models and Lanarkshiremodels websites for castings.
  2. RexAshton
    If it's only for a fiddleyard try the secondhand traders at exhibitions.
  3. RexAshton
    It's cheap and nasty for a reason. Don't complain about your £200+ sound fitted loco not performing faultlessly on 'cheap and nasty' track.
  4. RexAshton
    Don't know about Scalefour magazine but both are featured in Iains Wild Swan books.
  5. RexAshton
    George. Those look like EM Gauge Society track rivets. Being copper they could wear out quickly if used for valve gear.
  6. RexAshton
    I think you have to undo the front of the keeper plate and lift it remove the bogie and spring. That's what it's like on the Scot anyway.
  7. RexAshton
    Thanks Marc. Looks like an email to Springside. If you've not built one before it's an excellent though quite complicated kit. I've built two previously but no longer have the instructions - bad move.
  8. RexAshton
    What with Covid and the like I've only just got properly started on it.
  9. RexAshton
    Bump
  10. RexAshton
    Nails, pins and screws are all likely to result in distorted, dog legged track - just my opinion from experience. I always use Evo Stick impact adhesive. It allows time for minor adjustment, hold the track well but, if necessary, the track can be lifted by sliding a knife blade underneath it.
  11. RexAshton
    Problem there is that often they then presume they can 'play' with every layout.
  12. RexAshton
    Link's working fine.
  13. RexAshton
    Would it be worth trying felt pen on clear sheet?
  14. RexAshton
    If we forget/ hide our history we are destined to repeat the mistakes were made but it's prudent to be careful not to over glamourise it.
  15. RexAshton
    Stay alives only work with DCC as far as I'm aware.
  16. RexAshton
    It looks scratch built to me.
  17. RexAshton
    Thanks. I've tried that and I've got automatic direction changing at No1 end but both red and white all the time on No 2 end. After a bit more research I've now got No1 end working properly - as it's done throughout and No2 end changing directionally but showing red when going forwards and white in reverse. Current CVs are CV33 5 CV34 3 CV35 9 CV36 9 Onwards and upwards as they say.
  18. RexAshton
    Can anyone help please. I have an N gauge Dapol class 26 which works perfectly on DC. I've fitted a DCC Concepts Next18 decoder to it and the No2 end lights don't work. No1 end is fine. Spoke to DCC Concepts and they replaced the decoder as faulty, The new decoder still has the same issue. Unfortunately I can't check the decoder in another loco as it's the only Next18 one that I have. I've reset the decoder using CV8 to no avail. Any help would be much appreciated.
  19. RexAshton
    Looking at the service sheet it appears to be clipped in at the drawbar end. After removing the three screws gently lower the free end and pull the keeper plate toward the buffer beam end. The is only based on looking at the service sheet on Lendons website so please be careful.
  20. RexAshton
    Glad you got it sorted.
  21. RexAshton
    Speculation here but as they have such a huge range maybe they only produce to order.
  22. RexAshton
    You say you have cleaned the wheels and pickups which is fine but have you also cleaned all your rolling stock wheels. They get as dirty as the loco wheels and will deposit it back onto the trach as soon as you run them.
  23. RexAshton
    Sorry Dave. Nothing in my inbox. Despite lots of hours and at least to strip down and restart sessions I'm not getting anywhere. There are parts missing from both kits. I can persevere but the OP's photo looks far superior to anything I'm going to be able to bash out of the other kits. Do you want me to continue or send you back what I've got part built?
  24. RexAshton
    This one any good?
  25. RexAshton
    Try posting this in the DCC section. You should get a better response
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