Spitfire2865

Something I never really thought of before, how do the hard points operate on movable wing aircraft? The store needs to be facing forwards at all times.

I personally subscribe to the theory that the stores of the "big railways" are nothing more than fabrications to keep the sentient workforce complacent. Sodor did at times seem more like distopia for the working "class"

My problem there is the EDITION may vary. If a book has info added in the 3rd edition I need, Im not going to buy the 2nd!

Modelu figures are printed in a UV curing resin, so possibly sticking them in direct sunlight for a bit will do a bit of "post curing" to the resin which should get rid of most any uncured remnants. Then a good scrub in warm soapy water should be good, but thats more a general cleaning advice. Certainly dont risk any solvent cleaners on these, as I dont know the material makeup and if itd cause issues.

Several years ago I made a TARDIS as well, though out of wood for my girlfriend. Quite scruffy by my current standards. Spent about a year procrastinating on it to finish the roof as I ended up sanding it to shape from a solid block of wood.

Im not volunteering to model it up in G5. But its rather tempting.

F.E.2b, one of my favourite WWI aircraft, and would love Wingnuts kit, but Im neither made of money nor skilled enough to do 1/32nd any justice.

Depends on how many chairs you need. In 5"G, you may have some good luck using 3D printing, though youd need to 3D model one first. Not even sure where you could find a drawing for one.

Im quite jealous youve got your Vol 3 already. Working through a member at the society to secure a copy for myself. Hopefully it doesnt fall through. And of those vans at Darley Dale, I believe I know of that photo, which was key for building my now quite poor 4mm model.

Did some work today. Sprayed some red onto the headlamp box. and begun on the cab floor and lower sidesheets.

Oh dear, I seem to have forgotten to update...again But since the last update... Ive finalized the design of the American type. Gotten 400 USD worth of 3D printed parts with another 300 on the way. Had brass etches done which mostly contain the tender tank components and assorted details and begun work on the flares. And the working headlight with removable lighted reflector which works via sprung wire contacts. Painted a figure to be the guard in my L&Y brake van. And made some assorted items for his van. And soon I will have the lasercut steel parts which will make the chassis and the wood to send off to a lab to lasercut for a very reasonable fee. Ive also just gotten word from my brass caster that the driver centers are soon to be made, and Im waiting on Walsall Models to finish up the carrying wheels. I hate this part of modelling. The waiting for parts to come. But Ive been taking time off more designing (although I have already drawn up a G3 boxcar to go along with my American) and been focusing on some ebay selling. Hopefully it doesnt take another month to post again, but I do tend to forget.

The counterweight at the top looks a different colour, but I would agree with Stephen on the crane being all over the same colour, whatever that may be. Although, I doubt anyone would have the evidence to back up any claim of it being wrong whatever you choose.

Wow. Amtrak shot themselves in the foot again. Im not even surprised, just disappointed.

Ive lived near the sea (less than 300') all my life. Seaweed and moss growing on rocks has a very slick, almost rubbery appearance especially where the waves constantly wash over rather than tidal cycles, so perhaps artists acrylic drybrushed in the direction of water receding would do. Then while wet, sprinkle a little but of grass flock down of appropriate colours to give it that little bit of tuft. Then washes of similar greens along vertical surfaces (properly masked at the high tide mark) to get the distinct line. Plus dont forget the many shell fragments, clusters, and general debris that end up washing ashore and getting tangled in the seaweed. Any stray fluff or dust that gets settled into the paint or flock while detailing would only make it more realistic. You could always throw in a bit of wood chippings as well to represent bits of driftwood.

Well it depends on what kind of glue they used. If PVA, warm soapy water would absolutely be the best option for removing glue, and as long as you dry the track, it shouldnt be an issue. Nickel Silver rails dont rust very easily.

Always an option for those in the US, Trainz.com Tried to sell my O scale collection to them, was not happy with the price enough to sell to them, but I do have the time to sell everything piecemeal. Might be an option for family in the unfortunate event...

To answer your question, I solely use enamel paints and often through my airbrush, a cheapie "Master" branded one off Amazon, which Ive had no real issues with. Just thin the paint to the consistency of milk with thinner and spray light coats. In looking for an airbrush, go for a double action with a large gravity fed paint cup. The airbrush you linked is far too small for any real modelling work. Look for something below £100, but not THAT cheap. There are good ones out there that dont cost hundreds.

It actually is exactly Gauge 3, of which there are a surprising amount of LNWR items available due to Mike Williams making kits.

For your signal cabin, why not go with 1/22.5?

Darwin mustve been taking a nap that day.

Look for model aircraft control wire.

You want some basic HTML coding. http://www.echoecho.com/htmllinks01.htm This should tell you what to do.

ForbiddenYou don't have permission to access /files/images/02884u_0.jpg on this server. Additionally, a 301 Moved Permanently error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request.

Why not still use cork sheet? Lay it out across the board and you can run point rodding and wires through it.

I keep my enamels in a dark drawer of a tool chest I got for free from work when they were tossing it several months ago. Barely fit in my car, but managed. Id assume any storage in a UV safe area would be good.