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Spitfire2865

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Everything posted by Spitfire2865

  1. Thanks. From my research, Bub was distributed by FAO Schwartz in the US starting just postwar about. How my grandfather ended up getting it is a mystery as I have no photographic record of it appearing anywhere in the prewar/postwar era. Probably picked it up second hand somewhere in the present condition. My example definitely never had a crane as the platform clearly ends short after the building. I cant seem to find that ebay listing, you have a link?
  2. Hopefully someone here may be able to help. Im looking for the identity of this item, a prewar tinplate building, what appears to be some form of freight station. All I can say is on the end it has printed in the litho "KB Made in Bavaria" and on the bottom is rubber stamped "Made in Germany" By my search, this is a Karl Bub item, dating from around 1914 going by having both Bavaria and Germany on it. However, I can not for the life of me find any photos of a similar building anywhere online. Its clearly missing a platform on the front. The doors slide if thats of any help. Anyone ever seen something like it?
  3. Cant be bothered with live steam. Its pretty and all, but you never get good control in smaller scales without resorting to some form of hidden gearing. Also all the machining work required when I dont have a shop. The fluting was done as an 18 degree section and then rotated around its centerpoint 20 times. The curved face proved difficult due to the end conditions not really lining up with where it needed to go. I really should have made the reference planes tangental to the curved profile but I didnt think of it at the time.
  4. Well, Im keeping myself busy. For a while Ive wanted to build an American locomotive to Gauge 3 standards, a scale that is almost dead in the US. There is ONE other person building American G3 currently. And now I am the second. Currently all CAD work, but there is still a lot more to be designed. Ive chosen a prototype of the Rogers built Union Pacific 119, built in 1868. Why? Because the Promontory Point historical site sells all the engineering drawings from the loco's reconstruction in the 70s. So with over 300 drawings for 119 I have a lot on my plate. Eventually, it will have lasercut steel frames, cast and turned wheels, 3D printed boiler and domes, and wooden cab. The tender will be built similarly, although I might go with lasercut steel for its body. But so far, I have quite a bit of the loco modeled in 3D CAD. My computer is already struggling with only 73 parts. What have I gotten myself into...
  5. In the US, but on my commute home today my car told me it was 94F, or 34.5C. Its only 31.5C at home though.
  6. If you want to do non-commercial work, try AutoDesk's Fusion 360. Get the free trial, then in the top there is a "license" option. If you confirm you wont do any commercial work, you can get it for free.
  7. But that painting displays the train in the box. Painting or photo, you get what you see, a green 4-6-0 with some choc and cream coaches. Nothing you see, bar the fence in the foreground or rolling countryside, isnt included in the box.
  8. I could never get my head around anything but proper drafting programs, though thats probably attributed to my engineering experience. Cant stand the imprecision. Sketchup would be a hard pass from me. It may act like a 3D modeller but it has nothing of the like. If youre going for free, the best Ive seen bar piracy is AutoDesk's Fusion360, which is almost like a "Solidworks Lite" aside from a few aspects I couldnt get on with. If you download the free trial, then click the "Im using this for personal work only and not profiting from any of it" option in the license menu, itll just unlock the program fully for you. From what Ive seen of your work, it is all non-commercial anyway. Does anyone you know have a valid student email? Many of the professional companies offer student licenses, AutoCAD included. IMO, you couldnt find a better 2D drafting package.
  9. Now-a-days, Im sure the reasoning is tied heavily to the fear of "False Advertising" and misleading customers. How much uproar would we have today if little Timmy was disappointing on Christmas morning because his new trainset didnt have everything pictured on the box exactly as it appears. Then you look at prewar with either plain boxes or pretty patterning ala Lionel with only stamped identification for contents.
  10. I have a photo somewhere of myself aged 3-5 staring intently at my grandfathers Lionel trains.
  11. Ahh you got me! My days of quickly writing posts are over! Also, Dont forget Bills older etched 3 plank which I believe was D8?? something or another.
  12. Not all. For one, I have a drawing of an LSWR twin timber that has parallel pushrods. L&Y also did parallel pushrods with brake blocks that bore on the tread AND flange.
  13. What program are you using for CAD and 3D modelling? If youre a student or have the money, Id recommend AutoCAD for 2D. Easy to learn, use, and master.
  14. Ok. To give some answers. Pre 1903 axleboxes would be grease, as is in the photo you have, which I believe dates from around the mid 1910s. Wagons were the last concern for railways so often they were last to be overhauled. Brake gear would originally be on one side of the wagon only. Then the RCH decided all wagons should have brakes on both sides, and those brakes should be released from the side they were applied (to GWR annoyance). Again, you would often find wagons in years past this rule change still with antiquated brakes. On single sided brakes, there was often two brake hangers (the V shaped supports) on either side of the solebar to equally support the brake shaft. Beyond this, to the inside would sit the brake cam that attached to the pushrods. The brake shaft would only be as long as needed. If the wagon had floor drop doors as in the Midland D299 pictured, the brake pushrods were actually angled towards the outside of the wagon rather than parallel to the solebars so that the cross shaft would clear the swing of the door. For the brake lever, yes it was bent to avoid the axlebox after passing through the rack. Looking at the drawing attached (provided by the Midland Study Center), you can clearly see the brake linkages on the top view drawing.
  15. Thinking of selling my 4mm stock. Any suggestions as to how from the US?

    1. skipepsi

      skipepsi

      Contact Ian Abel from the ER topic he may be able to advise you or suggest dealers in the US he lives in MN

       

  16. My understanding is Ebay have done away entirely with "negative scores".
  17. Pretty cool. A good use of hydrogen fuel cells as you arent expected to travel particularly far from the hub so running out wont be of much concern.
  18. While it stalled for me due to a scale change, I am still very proud of my 4mm scale 4'x1' layout. Its an inglenook with an added runaround and kickback siding braching off the shorter sidings, plus the runaround is limited by a sector plate just big enough for the loco. Thus the puzzle ups from 8 wagons to 11 with destinations in the kickback which requires storage of wagons in the short siding or the runaround. Operation was fun and a challenge if a wagon needed for the kickback was buried in the long siding. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/107314-shelf-street-goods-station/?hl=%2Bshelf+%2Bstreet Always did feel it couldve been better at 5' rather than 4' but I was working to tighter requirements than you are. A key for designing a micro layout is to keep tracks non-parallel to the edges as it looks far more natural.
  19. They are. AutoCAD is a 2D drawing package that can be wrestled with the right force into doing 3D. Fusion360 is AutoDesk's main 3D package, which is free if you agree you arent doing any commercial work. AutoCAD is great for 2D work, and their student license is good if you know someone with an active student email. I tried Fusion 360 and couldnt get on with it. Dont like the interface, the vagueness of extruding/cutting, or the general modelling tools. I learned Solidworks, and thats what Im sticking to. Its actually pretty easy to learn and fairly straight forward once you pass the draw/dimension/extrude steps. Yes its $4000 US for a license, but we have the internet. I dont think I need to explain further. *Wink*
  20. Being in the US, I have no issue with packages being left on porches as most of our houses have doors far enough from the road to not be much of a concern. Yes certain areas have package theft issues, but that is really a case of vocal minority rather than the norm. However I can never get over how many stories I hear of UK postal workers leaving packages in garbage bins. Who in their right mind thinks that EVER an acceptable place to leave mail?
  21. Amazing they can drive vehicles, manage online websites, and operate a national mail service, yet cant read or comprehend a building is demolished?
  22. Its a common tactic in online selling. Its often more of a hassle to delete a listing and repost when its back in stock than it is to adjust the price to something so ridiculous no one would order it. So you get to keep your listing online while ensuring you dont have to cancel any orders as a result of it.
  23. Well you have to remember, the UK is nowhere as big as the US. Early railroaders were expected to be out on the route a good portion of their time, quite a far ways from home. If going across open field, a good ways from even settlement. So having some sort of roof over their heads for the upwards of 15 crew on a long freight train was well welcome. Thus enclosed cabs and a substantial caboose.
  24. Im convinced Goo-Gone is absolute magic. Ive used it to take off grime so caked on youd need a razor to clean off. But for your specific issue, would possibly a removable canopy built over the support base be of use? Essentially a slanted roof with a support beam each side, say every foot or so? Obviously only in the problem areas as Im sure your entire line isnt being dripped on.
  25. According to mine, it says "having problems uploading, try the simpler one" so I assume Im already using it. Im unable, on my phone or iPad, to select more than one photo at a time. So pick one photo, click "attach file", wait for it to upload, then start again.
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