Spitfire2865

Im in the US, but used to work for a local shop. The 5 papers we dealt in would have their covers collected (aside from the local one on sundays which would be returned whole) and picked up weekly by the dealer. The bulk would be recyced daily. Picked off for coupons or mess tarps if a passerby needed it.

The kit I had was definitely from 51L. Only ever had 2 Geen kits, neither was MR. Maybe a better batch. I know Nile also built one and his had the same twist.

On my phone, running the web browser, I have no option for a "full uploader", only the one at a time one. Im not sure what youre refering to.

I remember building that long low kit. Mine had a strange twist in both solebars that was near impossible to fix. Was yours any different?

Wow. Over 2 months. Well Im not dead, just cant be bothered with the uploading of one photo at a time. But in the meantime I "finished" the Tintab. And I finished a L&Y D1 And I won on ebay a 1/24th 1.5" gauge scratchbuilt loco. Its pretty big, but oddly had a speaker wired almost directly to track power, and was wired for straight DC. There was a couple capacitors and an unknown componenet wired in series with the speaker. Has anyone ever seen such an arrangement? On power, the speaker just hummed in between the crackling of a cheap, probably decades old speaker.

Soap, water, and a stiff toothbrush is my go-to.

We do seem to work on similar wagons together. Im currently building a pair of LNW D12s in G3 from kits. I think youll have a much harder time with the chains than I will.

I wasnt asking about the render image. I meant the option on how to orientate the model in the printer. I had a few parts I was importing last night and I wanted to ensure it would print a certain way up for quality reasons, but the option appears to have completely vanished, unless its burried underneath some strange option.

Slightly offtopic, but anyone having issues choosing print orientation on Shapeways? Seems with their new revamp, theyve broken quite a few options.

Agenoria has given up on the 7mm market, focusing more on larger scales. He still operates a facebook page however the website is now defunct. He also has issues being contacted through facebook, so contacting is a little bit of a chore if you dont have the details already.

Why exactly do you need insulfrog?

In solidworks, Ive managed it before with radiusing tools and then trimming back, but not sure if Creo would play the same way. It is quite the awkward shape.

So nice of the builders to add restroom facilities on their locomotive.

If you did build a B&W model, you could easily model the GWR at the turn of the century without anyone yelling you got the livery wrong.

Because a crazy man thought flat edges would increase traction of a wheel! Completely forgetting the principles of said wheel.

The Regency disaster was actually due to the builders. The original design was for a support rod through the beam, however it was installed as two separate rods through the beam, so instead of the rod supporting the weight (which it could), the beam was stressed and gave way. Studied the Regency disaster back in school as part of my engineering. One of my professors once told a story from when he was working on aircraft design. His plans called for a welded joint in a certain orientation. The welder thought otherwise and the welder's improvised joint didnt work when tested.

If "decorators caulk" is the stuff in long tubes used to finish housework like bathtub tiles and windows, then yes. Though I wouldnt recommend it for track as it has a tendency to shrink overtime and come away from what it was stuck to. Thus in a few years time your once stuck down trackwork is now not.

Looks pretty good to me. I think your LSWR van is a little wonky though.

Did you upload them directly to RMweb or use a 3rd party hosting site?

If you had managed the coloured threads and ferrules, Id certainly be impressed. Would a D1 actually be used for such a bulky load?

As long as the base coat is fully cure, I dont see you having much issue. Obviously do a test piece first.

I would highly recommend binning those insulfrog points and buying some electrofrog points as you will undoubtedly find better running and reliability with proper metal frogs. The point of insulfrog is that you dont require wiring beyond track feed as the frog is "dead" and thus no issue with polarity or shorting. Electrofrogs OTOH require slightly more wiring and a polarity switch to change the polarity of the frog so you dont have dead sections which small or slow locos can stall on. Im not sure if you mixed up your point types or if you are actually trying to use insulfrogs.

Looks good. I dont think theres any way to satisfyingly get the tarp to behave as the 12" to the foot ones do. Proper real fabric has an almost fluid like property due to the weight that we just cant replicate for smallscales. Perhaps I would have better luck in G3, but as Im no seamstress, I havent the skill to do it. Would definitely need a sewing machine at the very least to get decent seams.

Ive had a similar experience back in December. Designed and commissioned some etches from PPD LTD, later received a small ceramic plate from a small company in the same town as PPD! Their package had been damaged, opened, repacked, and somehow the item for someone in a neighboring state ended up on my doorstep. Delivered by FedEx using a courier service, at which point neither wanted anything to do with the redelivery of the mistake. The courier's customer service number linked to FedEx, who told me to contact the courier! Back and forth and I gave up on dealing with FedEx as they clearly wanted nothing to do with fixing the issue. I ended up repacking it and reshipping at my own expense to the true recipient with USPS after contacting them. Then my etches showed up later that week in a relatively undamaged package! Not entirely sure how it happened, but dont fret, your loco may still be on its way.