cctransuk

Originally 2/- (10p). CJI.

That's OK - I don't expect that you will be buying it! CJI.

Just a thought but, since it's unlikely that anyone still alive can have a clear impression of the colour in question, does it matter? Who is going to be able to say, with certainty, 'That's wrong'? CJI.

At my mid-70s, that is a spring chicken. As to keeping up with the times, I trust the mechanical strength of a machine screw against magnetism every time! CJI.

Drill a hole the diameter of the distance across the flats of the nut in the false ceiling. Press the nut into the hole with a vice. Drill a clearance holes for the screw thread in two squares of plastic card, and stick one on each side of the ceiling nut. The nut is now trapped and can't rotate; furthermore, the lower clearance hole is ideal for locating the end of the screw into the nut - not easy when peering through a coach window. .... speaking of which - how close do you observe your coaches for you to be able to see the screws? At normal viewing distance, if visible at all, they might resemble a standing passenger. CJI.

If transfers are sealed with Johnsons floor lacquer; (Klear, or whatever their current marketing brand is); Testors Dullcote - if you have it - should have no ill-effects. CJI.

Indeed it does - I was quite happy to copy Tri-ang when Kirk kits came along. I adapted the method for my Kitmaster Blue Pullman, wherby the roof is detachable from separate body / chassis and interior assemblies. The false ceiling greatly stabilised the flimsy, flexible roof moulding, and created a ledge which supported the equally flexible sides. In both cases, the assembled bodies are remarkably rigid and robust. CJI.

..... and copied them when they produced their first 9F models. CJI.

I have found it quite easy to arrange my kitbuilt coaches such that the body is detachable from the chassis. Three long screws up through the floor into a false ceiling, as Tri-ang did many moons ago. CJI.

My (secondhand) experience of 3D printing is that the technology IS capable of producing no-prep models. That said, the sophistication of the printer and, critically, the skill and experience of the operator, are the major determinants of the standard of the finished model. This is to be expected; after all, one would not expect a beginner to produce a perfect etched kit model. 3D printing is merely a new means of producing a model; albeit one with great potential, given practice and patience. CJI.

If you wish to see the potential of 3D printing, look at IronMink's free-to-download design files on Thingiverse. When printed, just fit the buffers, wheels and couplings and place on the track; weighting and painting are optional but desirable additions. Note - zero prep. (sanding), beyond removal of supports, is required. CJI.

Neil, So - to recap - is the Hornby 88DS chassis a goer for the S&DJR version and, if so, is that version of the body available to buy from you? John Isherwood.

Spot on - with the removable section cast in / machined from the densest metal commercially viable. John Isherwood.

I attempted to assemble frames with separate hornguides, and I would describe myself as having more limited skills. The chassis is still incomplete, and will be replaced by a rigid version. I cannot, for the life of me, see why a person with limited skills would try and assemble equalised or sprung frames. CJI.

If 'cheating' produces a loco that runs as freely as the prototype, so be it! Of course, if track-laying is suspect, some may find it necessary to have wobbly wheels ...... ? CJI.

That is the precise point that I was making! I do not regard verifying the accuracy of a set of rods as a necessary function of a frame jig; that can be done with some drill shanks. If you can't get the rod holes to line up, don't even bother to get the frame jig out of the drawer. To my mind, the purpose of a frame jig is to get all of the axles perpendicular to the frames, and in the same plane. The Poppy jig does this to perfection, time after time - and it's MUCH cheaper than the more complex, metal jigs. CJI.

Surely the dimensional consistency of a pair of rods is fundamental to the satisfactory assembly of frames, regardless of the means of jigging (or not)? CJI.

'Prejudiced opinion' implies negativity not based on experience - my contrary opinion is based on extensive negative experience - albeit in 4mm. scale. CJI.

I'd STRONGLY advise not using plunger pick-ups; fit some traditional flange or tread wipers instead. I've yet to come across reliable plunger pick-ups. CJI.

Without wishing to state the obvious(?), anything that gets in the way when you swivel the bogie on a shiny surface, such as you illustrate. CJI.

Links won't work for me. CJI.

Mohs obviously had something to do with equine accoutrements. 😀 CJI.

I cannot understand why flush glazing has to have a recess behind each window - this is what is so visible. I am assuming that it may be in order to keep the moulding of a generally equal thickness, and I do recall seeing 'sink' hollows in the old Kitmaster glazing strips, which did not have the recesses behind each window. That said, I would have expected, sixty years later, that the technology would have developed to allow variable thickness mouldings to be produced. CJI.

Regretably not!!! Some who is interested in narrow gauge / industrial railways. CJI.

If you are the above person, who recently made a BACS payment to Cambridge Custom Transfers, (or know that person), please PM me. C J Isherwood.