Down_Under

Hello RMWebbers, Does anyone have a picture from above or in more detail of the 'turret' area of the RSH 56 class ? I have searched the net far an wide and this is about the best that I can find. (Cropped photo from https://www.furaffinity.net/view/21135729/ - wamkitty) Thanks in advance, James (Perth, Australia)

Hi All, I am after a chuck key for a the 4 Jaw Independent Chuck on a Unimat 3. Believe it is about 4mm Or if people know of where to purchase a replacement from, please let me know Thanks in advance James

Yes, that would be the most logical I think - I just lack the skills, or the tools (eitehr thread cutting attachment, cutting tool or die (?)) at this moment in time to turn up the thread - something to learn for sure.

Hi AndyID, This is what I am trying to achieve: The short pin - modify a 3mm short pin by removing the red area. This seems to be the easiest option, since there is little defection to begin with. The longer pin - option #1 - modify long 3mm pin and machine off the red area. However, issues with deflection when the tool is introduced. The jig axles are steel and quite hard (i've reduced RPM and slow feed rate) to ensure good "chipping". seem to have helped - along with a sharp tool. You mean like this? Long pin Option #2 - start with 2mm pin and centre drill end to take 1mm pin. Pros - can hold the pin closer to the chuck / collet reducing deflection I have a 4 jaw (just need to find the chuck) - and a set of collets on order (waiting for delivery from UK) so can use either or these. Also have a dial gauge to ensure running true in the 4 jaw. Which is the perference for ensuring centricity ? Thanks for all the advise - the first time lathing since I was 15 (20 on years ago), so apologies for any miss use of terminology.

A questions for the brains trust. I am wanting to turn up (down?) some 2mm Avonside jig axles at the tip to 1mm tips for getting the correct axle spacing. However due to the length (nearly 40mm) of the stock 2mm jig axles the run out on the ends is quite alot (+/-0.5mm to 1mm) and I could not manage to accurately machine the 1mm tip. I cut one down to 15mm and tried to turn a 1mm tip again, however the tip is still slightly off - center (potentially I was too aggressive with the top slide?) I had better success when starting from scratch (probably should have started with this as a test 😝) with a blank piece of 1/8 brass rod, turning a 1mm end and then reducing the 1/8 to 2mm. Run out basically 0 and all in all an much better product. So, would I be correct to surmise (and possibly answering my own question) that it is better place to start would be to use 1/8th jig axles as the 'stock' and turn these down to 2mm rather than try and turn a 1mm tip onto a 2mm axle? Secondly, should I be using the headstock when attempting to turn long relatively thin pieces? Ultimately, when my skills / knowledge progress I should be able to turn up a complete jig axle from scratch. But got to start somewhere. Thanks in advance, J

Managed to pick up a genuine set with little use (some even came in packaging). Its hard picking stuff from overseas site unseen without any advise or experience, so advise much appreciated

For those looking for formations follow that link - many others follow

thanks @McCemails sent 👍

Thanks @McC . So should hold fire while you figure out stock levels or ship via a UK address to be sure?

@Accurascale Franand @McC I am noticing that the .co.uk and .com websites are reporting all sold out (.com) or preorder available (.co.uk but limited options) is this a bug ? Was attempting to order a second example for shipment overseas.

Thanks OzzyO, I will clamp the diecast section to the table. Should not be too hard to ensure that it is square. to the slide. On the topic of collet / collet chucks - would anyone recommend the aftermarket brands that pop up Ebay, or should I keep my eyes out for a genuine set or ER16 collets? James

Hey OzzyO, Thanks for all the advice and tips. So, treat like Aluminum. I have found a single flute cutter at "Adams bits'. One of my concerns / queries was how does it cut and how gummy it was. I have a little experience cutting Perspex and wood on a larger CNC router, but that is the limit of my experience. The work that I was wanting to achieve was much finer - machine of 0.65 - 0.75mm each end of this diecast casting to widen the shunter steps to the correct width and bring the valances back to the correct position. Depth of cut 8mm, length of cut 15mm and material to remove 0.65mm. Hopefully that isnt too ambitious In a little more detail: Regarding tool paths - I was thinking of multiple passes top to bottom (or bottom to top, which ever is appropriate the direction of the cutter). Maximum bit would be 5-6mm diameter. If I was feeling brave I would consider machining 10 thou of the sides of the valances to allow the etched valances to sit at the correct overall width - although this may be easier with a few strokes of a file.

Asking a little bit of advice, I am wanting to attempt to mill some zinc alloy (mazak cast loco frames). Would there be any recommendation on cutter type / speed etc on my Unimat 3. Where I am a I have access to PROXXON brand HSS bits like this https://www.hobbytools.com.au/milling-bit-tungsten-vanadium-hss-3mm-cylinder-2-pcs/ or would double fluted be a better option - https://www.hobbytools.com.au/milling-cutter-set-high-speed-steel-2-5mm-4-pcs/ Any tips or tricks I should be aware off? firs time attempting. James

Need to fit a crossover in but run out space, well there is always interlaced point work to help you out Liverpool Docks

That C.14 chassis looks good Mike. Captured the size of the axle boxes well with those etches and the cranks look good too. Put me done for a couple of those chassis. James

Good Evening / Morning All, It was is probably quite a familiar story I have inherited a Unimat 3 Lathe, amongst a few other things and haven't used one in anger since metal work in design tech in high school (20+ years ago). It appears to have had very little use and comes with some cutting tools (i;ve since found an article on how to identify), steady post and a couple of dead centres. I've been on the scalefour forum and found some of Ted's articles on simple lathe work and there are numerous references for getting going on here I've found. I has after a little advise on: - Servicing and cleaning - the belts look a little perished and threads are a little stiff / dusty. Would a strip down and lube be recommend? Bearing in mind, my aims are to turn up bearings, re-profile wheels, axles, cut some small threads (4mm scale in EM and P4), what I can gather the most useful additional components would be: - Collet set (ER16? ER 25? Watch makers?) - Tapered slide - Wheel profile tool (P4/EM). - Live centre? - Tool wise, I am a little lost - is there a go to set of tools that I should have? Any other recommendations for *must have* tools / parts? On the milling side it is missing a few items - mill table, machine vice, fine feed control and all the cutting tools. I would put this into the 'down the track' box of things to get working source. Looking forward to having a go. Thanks in advance. James

Thankyou for those pictures Mike. They will help a lot with construction. I had not realized how much they varied from unit to unit.

Fantastic News a vote for a green and a blue High Dyke version please D5672 - David F Photo https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/monthly_11_2009/post-5613-12571065384558_thumb.jpg and D5671 - David F Photo https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/monthly_11_2009/post-5613-1257106590609.jpg Any indication of how long to wait for the High Dyke locos...?

That is a "Avonside Chassis2" jig. For me, I'd be lost without it.

Talking of the "Fell" - here is one of Mikes etches that I'm CSB'ing High level Slimline 2mm hornblocks, Lanarkshire Models CSB pivots. The CSB points where worked out using a CLAg excel sheet. I then transposed this points onto a scan of the drawings in Inkscape to make sure they did not interfere with the various spacers. Only one require some slots cutting for the CSB tags to have some upwards movement in them. Final product. Now need to install gearbox, outside frames etc. This was a Ebay find, that had a poorly built chassis that I striped down, cleaned up and started from scratch. The body has been stripped, as the detail etches had been glued on and the front cowlings poorly attached. Very enjoyable thus far.

Hey @RThompson any update on the dump cars or where they sit in the project queue? cheers james

As promised here are some pictures of the 90-1 and 56-1 gearboxes 90-1 has a worm drive and a milled brass gearbox casing. All shafts 1mm. 56-1 all pinion gears. 1mm shafts. The double gears come as individual gears that you press together (they sell these seperately). Interference fit. The larger tooth gears (20-30t) can all be reamed to take a 2mm axle. I'll use the 56-1 to test for a motor bogie. I will use some exactoscale parallel bushes to sleeve the 1mm axles as I will be using this gearbox as the test mule. I'm thinking custom box perhaps without the massive ratio so that the shaft will be bushed to take a 2mm axle. J

The website in posted the link has some good gears. I’ll post some pics shortly of the gearboxes I got. Axle hung gears 100% possible from 14-90 to 1 ratio. J

Very nice Ian. Put me down for two. James

Hi Dave, what brand of 6pin socket did you use? James