Down_Under

Followed by, why would you need a safari roof and sun visor in North East England?!

Does any one want to hazard a guess at the wagos origin? 2 planks, with removable ends wooden underframe spoked wheels 1907 RCH type brake gear Some sort of pregrouping carriage wagon?

Im seriously impressed. Thanks for sharing that.

Very nice! What did you use to motorise the Land Rover with?

Found it! https://en-gb.facebook.com/tanfieldrailway/photos/pcb.10156022822895312/10156022820015312/?type=3&__tn__=HH-R&eid=ARDfymHwzcvpyikikxwxDieN3dn-NQAL5lxA3GJ8_0l32uDCZy9lKabdXsY9h232R_Lns-A6W13y35My&__xts__[0]=68.ARAJ4yfPDjn3weFpzq9uwwYAr3tBpyHfY-G7GvxoZw3OSqWz7he-xEECaakU17Ke-PaW0DJOBz6DQBwcp3Tvs15pcBPgGTQViGm3YCDmYtuvl97N8ZGFIfGdjPA-4fNE_QDSqV4X_hQeK8Pl98H4fLkFAaa23Anbc5Irwc3xiRR3D7wkCTfzLkwCcwdL3lXIEPtHBW3iZWLO7fVoBzimzDHIeo5bUesiDA_w0Qbyl2K4DdWvb81Zuazzq6xzxPNcvt37iztaxWKX5FfZeXT8zLSfG5LC_lu2k-XB-GkGVVNB0xmV7OArooCIROJhhVPO9AKcpTMBHj3F0kj868tYHCIGAlJPjw480XtNZpHG6gxD8_ZB9pKrlKKQ_vuOyNsPtxGa492vgECMDmi8cexB4UvEMj4lbVCofS-uharwdzL3JK4WHanRDb6hnuAKKJdlqV2PZlLMW_XWViPXvHohK6sP5MHb4rkAgVD5hXT2hQUEA4d5pBr5th8

Intresting I think I've seen a couple of landies in background shots will have another hunt. Intresting about the forward controls - guessing 2a or 2bs

Getting warmer.... Although i I know I've seen a NCB branded landie on an open. Just don't know where I saw it..

G'day all, After jumping back into the hobby I have amassed a collection of locos and started kit building a few. Would anyone have any recommendations as to a basic controller that I could use to test locos on a rolling road (Hornby/Heljan/Bachman test motors/gearbox as building ( most motors I have a conventional as opposed to cordless) test running on short length of track and a single point I dont have the most amount of space, or a layout so something self contained would be good that can be packed away when not in use. Sorry if these seems like a pretty basic question, but not really sure where to start with this Thanks in advance James

Resection of a old thread - anyone got any other pictures of Land Rover on wagons? I'm looking for one I should have saved but didn't - features a series Land Rover with NCB markings on a low fit of some sort. Anyone got a copy or link? Alos so anyone got pictures of landers working in the Ironstone quarries of the midlands?

Would you be able to do these for P4 gauge (niche I know...)

Count me in to

Look good. Guessing the rims secured by loctite or similar? And how to order? J

Email sent Gordon Cheers James

Thanks Locksley, I have the scalescenes factory complex/boxfile and was trying to work out how to tone it down and add another dimension to it. Good thing I guess is that you can print it off as many times as you like and weather it until you get it right. Cheers J

This might sound like a simple question, but how did you weather the sca.e scenes paper like that?

Looks like the DS10-esq motor that had been mentioned here, without any drill holes, that has also be touted as a possible 1024 replacement is also used in Hornby models and classes as a X7170 . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hornby-OO-Gauge-5-pole-motor-X7170-no-worm-gear-flywheel/254279682743?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D57477%26meid%3Dba6891f3be304db089de4f3b81578642%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D163788129928%26itm%3D254279682743%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 I'm struggling to spot the difference between it and https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2Pcs-DC-12V-36500RPM-5-pole-rotor-dc-motor-high-speed-dual-shaft-carbon-brushDRF/352677966895

Jesus, you've been busy Mr Justin! Will send you a email Cheers James

In summary, it's mostly been fun along with some immense frustration while working out which hornblock combo’s to use, losing count of how many times I’d soldered/unsoldered carrier tags and hornblocks and taking apart quartered wheels. Plus side – got better at quartering wheels. I have another one to do, so we'll see if the chassis can be refined a little. Seems to work OK with a gentle push from the big finger in the sky The next post will be on the gearbox in a couple of weeks time when I get back from work; a few teasers here for you. A High Level LoadHauler Compact with Drive Stretcher + Mashima 1220D. Spot the first problem And a bonus couple of Harton NCB videos from YouTube, complete with funky late 80s synth music to keep you entertained until the next installment

There has finally been some action down at NCB Dining Table and it looks like the strike in the workshop has finally been broken After a couple of challenging nights and the odd afternoon while it has been raining here we finally have a fully sprung Janus chassis. It has been a tad frustrating at times, through my own inexperience – It feel like I’ve actually built about 4 chassis due to the number of times it has been apart, cleaned and put back together. Is this normal? A little recap, since it has been a while. This is my first chassis kit, and for added complexity I thought I’d jump on the P4 band wagon, which to be honest I don’t think makes it extra harder – most/all my issues are pretty much down to my own inability rather than any fault of the kit or kit parts. I’ve found this super challenging and very frustrating at times. Two steps forward, one back is the motto of this workshop. This I can squarely put down to me, and the result of learning about all the variables to consider – compensation beams vs CSB wires, types of hornblocks, horn block widths, reaming out holes with a tapered broach instead of a parallel reamer. So at the end of the last episode we had got this far – a chassis that was mostly straight and built as per the instructions. One thing I learnt was that it helps to have a few spares, various types of hornblock, bushes, handrail knobs etc. when you start to deviate from the instructions….. After the first attempt there were a couple of issues. The chassis wasn’t quite square It bound up in both directions due to a couple of reasons; the non-square chassis; the top hat bearings not quite square in the compensation beams; too much slop in pin that articulated the coupling rods at the knuckle joint; I’d omitted the knife edge for the rocking axle (by mistake). I have (had) no idea how I was going to permanently articulate the coupling rods and the 0.3mm wire was too sloppy. I made a few more mistakes which compounded my problems including use a tapered broach to open up the top hat bearings in an attempt to ease the binding, which most ‘chassis bibles’ tell you not to do. At least I now know why. It made it all very much worse. At this point I put the whole thing back in the box and into the bottom draw and had a think while I tinkered on my 1959 Land Rover Series 2. A chance meeting at a local model rail exhibition, across the road from the where my Series 2 lives I met a chap called George Noble of the EM Gauge Society, who showed me how to solder valve gear rivets to complete the articulation of the coupling rods (plus a few bargains, including another Oxford Rail Janus and a bunch of NCB themed 16 tonners from Bachman). On returning with my loot, out came the nickel silver and the soldering iron. So one cold and rainy evening I decided the best option would be to stop tinkering and start again. I stripped the chassis back to bare metal and cleaned it all up. De-soldering braid is wonderful stuff! Like new in no time. I reamed out (with a parallel reamer) the holes in the crankpins for the axle bushes, and through the technique George had talked me through (Clean up the steel rivet and back of coupling rod, flooded the joint with oil, apply a little flux and then with a super hot iron briefly dabbed the exposed end of the rivet with some solder) soldered in valve gear rivets. Remarkably (to me) it worked four times out of four (I’d made a spare set up in case I cocked up the first). I had initially assembled the chassis as per instructions without really thinking through the implications of what I’d just followed, or not followed as it turned out. The rear end was saggy and it took me a while to realise I’d omitted the knife edge for the rear axle to rock on. In fact no knife edge is included and the swing arms are only included as an option – the instructions (and drawing) recommend a fixed rear, which is also the driven axle. I recently found a an excellent blog on assembling this rocking knife edge on a couple of Mikes kits here are Grassland Models. And there are some excellent short videos on his twitter account I was in a bit of the pickle, through my bodging to try and ease the binding – I’d opened up the bearing holes in the chassis to the extent that top hat bearings where a very sloppy fit (I can hear the sighs and Ugghh from here :/ ). I read up a bit on compensation and umm’d and arghh’d about using a rocking beam a la flexi-chassis, recycling some of Mikes kits parts. In the end I settled on a series of equalizing springy beams. It seemed pretty simple. If you want a little more science you can delves into the deep and dark mind on of the CLAG here. After a bit of thought, I took the slightly rash decision to cut out the all the hornblocks, after all I’d invested in a proper jig (I got fed up with faffing with jig axles and the wooden poppys jig). The most valuable part of the jig is that I was able to leave it set up – I could de solder hornblocks, adjust them etc without fear of messing it all up. To fit the equalized springy beams a template was made via a photocopy of the works drawing with the location of the pivot points. In what we’ll call a learning experience I messed up drilling one of the holes – to rectify I filled with solder and then carefully realigned the template and re-drilled the hole. Using what turned out to be the longest handrail knobs I had – these were soldered to the inside and then filled flush on the outside. It took a couple of attempts to establish the correct length to match the High Level carrier tags. I’ve settled on 10 thou spring wire for the time being, but they are adjustable depending on final loco weight. So there we have it, 6 months later, back more or less where we started, but with a fully functioning chassis, compensated chassis that runs remarkably smoothly over some of the roughest track that was found stashed in the bottom of a draw, complete with kinks, humps and distortions. The equalised spring beams, once all the components had been worked out works really well, surprised it is not used more often on equal wheelbase chassis.

Ooooh exciting! Put me down for a couple of those etches Paul if you have any spare - I've been stashing away some DJH Barclay parts

Thank you all for the replies. I'm not sure what I've done with the instruction for that particular part. I was going to use it to replace the short final carriage as supplied with a Load hauler compact+. So judging by that image it might not actually be required. Thanks for the image Chris - I've sent a email (along with an order for some other parts) Thankyou from Australia everyone. J

Quick question. I have a High level drive stretcher to assemble. It comes with a 2mm ID brass top hat bush (in addition to the parallel 2mm bush/space) - should I be reaming out the idler gear ot take this bush or is it superfluous? Circled in red with question mark. Or does it act as a spacer for the idler ? Thanks in advance J

That is looking amazing Paul. really top notch. Also interested in the layout that you have been crafting in the background....

For me there are 3 parts to colliery operation: - colliery screens/washing plant and their operations - access between the colliery and exchange sidings (often steeply graded) and/or other areas of the colliery. - exchange sidings with BR the problem is that these were often large complexes and rarely occurred together, separated by several miles, making it a challenge to model. The question I'd ask myself if which bit do you want to model? There are a couple of good examples that have been posted in other threads e.g. Bersham Colliery The Astley Green series on YouTube ( by Gandy Dancer) is also a fantastic watch on colliery operations. There will be big and small examples you can pick and choose bits from to build it into the space that you have. The other thing to think about is train length as this will control the length of certain sections of the track/layout J

I'm interested in one Gordon