Junctionmad

The issue remains , generating regulated DC with any large current requirements isn't that simple or efficient using transformers and it's the reason they have virtually disappeared in commercial PSUs As for dodgy far eastern designs , this is true of any component. Buy good recognised brands. Funny, had loads of bits of PCs failing over the years but the PSUs are usually bomb proof in my experience ( and make quite good layout power supplies ) Edited The op has indicated he needs in excess of 5A ( possibly more ) of dc current , he has not indicated how he intends to go from the AC output of a transformer to regulated ( and properly short circuit protected ) DC, at the desired current ( plus some headroom ) There's a lot more to this then just a Traffo

I cannot agree , mine have lasted ages. Point motors properly quenched cause no issues. But to each his own

It's worth pointing out that the P4 bridage have largely abandoned cork as it promotes track irregularities. In my opinion, having done actual tests ( well my friend did) foam , 3mm. Is slightly better then cork, but the ballasting tends to increase the noise transmission significantly. My club , which builds exhibitions layouts , doesn't bother with cork and lays code 100 or code 75 direct to the ply Personally I always glue track

Really can't see why any layout needs AC , rather then transformer , use switched mode power supplies for DC, far more efficient

I have always worked on the basis that no rail joiner carries current . Hence droppers to every continuous piece of track , DC or DCC makes no difference

I milled out check gauges rather like the three point 00-SF gauges , I find these more stable then the rollers , which I'm moving away from

Balderdash Run my 30 kWh Leaf on night rate , costing around 1.3 euro. Euro cents per mile , that's about 10 times cheaper then any diesel , i have 68,000km after 18 months on the car ! The current Ioniq is returning 200 km , which is over 100 miles , real world driving Next year we have the 2018 leaf with 350 km range , a 50 kWh Hyundai SUV The debate is over , the car companies are already all powering up to a complete EV lineup The " deniers " are beginnng to sound like 1990 smoking campaigners. The electric motor will always beat the 18century bag of bolts that is the internal combustion engine , faster smoother , more durable Batteries will deliver sufficient capacity for the majority of normal users with the next 2 years ,

It's a bit more complex then that Dinghams are designed to sit on the buffer beam, placing them on bogies means the coupling is far too low and you end up with a non standard solution , the problem is actually more acute with bogie freight stock as it nearly impossible to fix the dinghams so that they can couple to 2 axle stock The coupling seems to be orientated to 2 axle freight stock only What's surprising is the lack of used discussion on these couplings , it's as if very few people are using them in anger

These things need to be used with care, they are far from ideal , They tend to heat the joint way too hot. They have their uses ( sheet metal etc ) but are no substitute for a proper iron

Only if you are back feeding power to the section beyond the frog. in some cases you may just have a siding , in that case there is no need for IRJs

Most electromagnets will work on AC and DC , however the magnetic field reverse on AC and overall strength of the electromagnet will be lower in AC then DC. Some electromagnets are would so the they have to be used on DC , typically ferrite based etc

thanks guys

Im struggling to make or find a suitable girl /louvre perhaps someone will know an etch floating around that might be suitable the height is the same as a MK1 window thanks Dave

there can be some slop in these , especially in the finer scales , pattern makers dowels are better awful things ,

well it may work in practice but will it work in theory

dont bother with any iron under 40w preferably temperature controlled jeepers, are you soldering garden gates !!!

Personally I think it's better now to sound proof the baseboard underneath, then bother with material under the track

The MERG throttle/cab uses a pot Currently when you acquire a loco it is then set to the current cab speed ( you can also share and " steal " , locos from or to other cabs ) The current RAM size supports around 22 locos under control ,

I agree , testing on DCC is just as easy . This notion that you should test on DC is really mis placed. I only go back to DC if I find I have a mechanical problem.

Again , I wouldn't reccomend anything under 40watts for soldering. If you go to a production line , you will never see 25 watts irons. Wattage has nothing to do with temp My Hakko 40w is up to temp inside 15 secs , wide variety of bits , space for sponge and brass mesh cleaners ( I prefer the brass mesh ) My advice for joining wires is tin both ends separately , then bring together and apply iron, rarely is more solder needed Like many , I use leaded solder , which remains widely available. It's only commercial production soldering that must be lead free I find solders with 2% silver to be best

My first practical lab in college as a budding EE , the lecturer handed everyone 500 resistors and a pile of scrap pcbs and said away you go, fit and solder everyone Trial by fire !!!

People , in my view , buy irons with too little power. The power is needed to improve the " recovery" time and to allow the iron to handle metals carrying away the heat as opposed to circuit board soldering , where small power irons are acceptable 40 w minimum , 50 to 60w is good too

Thanks John will do

Does anyone know if Phil/C&L will be at the DEMU show and if so is it possible to ask for certain stock items to be brought there , I need some 0 Gauge track components

I never rely on fishplates to conduct , so that determines the dropper strategy , aruguably DC benefits from it more because of the very low voltages in use at times