JimFin

Once you have completed the design, get a copy of Cura (free) and load the STL into that. Prepare and have a look at the layer view - it will give you an idea of how it will print out.

In this instance, I would caution that 3d printing that small is going to have very poor resolution, FDM would just be a blob and resin a little better. You could spend a lot of time and effort for little reward at the end of the day. An easy CAD tool for those would be Tinkercad - https://www.tinkercad.com - its free and the basic shapes you would need are predefined.

Came across this on another forum and thought you might like it -

No need to have them all connected at the addressing stage, you can add them and program later.

I had a related but equally frustrating experience with the Switch Pilot module for ESU which I thought worth sharing here. The Switch Pilot has 4 conventional outputs and 2 further servo outputs. As above, outputs 1 to 4 (or multiples) are set in the same way, use the programming button to enter programming mode and assign the first value you want from your controller, the others follow automatically, for output 1 to 4 - but not the 2 servo outputs...... What you have to do to activate the servo outputs is press and hold the programming button until you get to a second set of rapid flashes and then assign the first value you want to the servo outputs, following the same rule, must be the first in the 4 sequence i.e. 1, 5, 9, 13 etc. and the servos can now be programmed using CV's for start position, end position and speed of sweep. It does mean there will always be 2 unused values as only the first 2 of the group of 4 can be assigned.

Es ist ein großartiger Name

Not as far as I am aware - F1 to F20 plus lights is the limit of this and the original ESU Navigator.

These S scale ones might fit the bill. https://www.shapeways.com/product/DYAN5PPC5/pigeons?optionId=66026881&li=marketplace

Being interested, I read up on the machine Justin pointed out but was disappointed in the 150mm X 160mm cutting area, just so small as to limit the scale of projects. I did see however that there is a Mk2 of the machine with a full rigid frame and work area of 400mm X 430mm which is more sensible - anyone any experience of this or similar?

You could have a look and post a question on their dedicated forum, saw a comment there by John Ferguson who is a MERG memeber in the UK. https://viessmann-modell.com/forum/

Nice of you to share with us and I think your ballasting is looking good! Once the sides of the rail is weathered down with some matt rust, the higher profile will be much less obvious. Are you planning a fiddle yard / traverser / cassettes at the back? This is not an area I know so I looked it up. Nice picture collage and I can see you have done a sort of mirror of the trackplan, looks good and interesting operational options. http://www.furep.ch/FUREP/index.php/archiv?AG_MK=0&AG_form_paginInitPages_0=1&AG_form_albumInitFolders_0=archiv/Bahnhof in Beromünster&AG_MK=0 . I just find modelling such a great way to become absorbed in a subject and very therapeutic in such troubled times, look forward to seeing your progress.

I use Tracklay rolls - cuts the ballasting process to a minimum. Use it slightly differently to the way they describe, apply it sticky side to the underside of the sleepers and pin in place temporarily. Apply a bead of PVA along each edge of the strip and sprinkle the ballast on, firm into place with a foam roller and then remove excess when the PVA is dry for reuse, remove the temporary pins. As the foam is only fixed at the edge, noise is reduced as it is not a "hard" fix. Attached gives a fair idea of the end result.

The interesting feature of the DVD's is that if you print the line drawing 100% from the PDF, it comes out at 1/87 scale. In theory, just adjust the percentage print for the appropriate scale and you can dimension from the drawing. Attached is a sample Be 511 to 514.pdf

There is a roster limit of 30 locos on the Bachmann Ultima - there should have been an addenda slip in the instruction manual as the original could handle 40. The "pro box" is simply the add on unit that sits between the base and the IR reciever and has cable ports for additional remote IR recievers. The situation will arise when the base unit and handsets get out of sync. When you get the message "ok to rest loco list" the answer ✔ will update the handset with the loco set from the base unit, if you say X, the base unit will update from the handset. Even if a loco has gone from the roster, the decoder still has all the details stored on it and if you simply know and use the loco address, it should still work, effectively as a guest loco if you simply select it. Sounds like a faulty joystick, being a moving part, they are susceptible to wear and tear, same issue as folk have with gaming consoles. Bachmann service dept can replace it for a fee. Alternative is having selected the edit loco name and gone to set name, you can use the character delete key, leftmost under the screen to remove the characters and type in your new name. I have the basic and ultima versions and all handsets are the same and interchangeable.

Let me assure you that the price of buying will be less than the cost of the associated therapy following installation! Marklin do a decent jig for positioning masts and overhead wires, worth investing in rather than the bit of junk Sommerfeld offer.

Agree with Lantavian but - these are the current design which has been updated since 1980.

In some respects - what feels most comfortable in your hand and has good ergonomics for you personally is more important than the brand i.e. can you comfortably reach and operate the controls / buttons, do you prefer a slider, joystick or dial etc. etc. Does mean you may have to wait until you can go and try some though! To future proof would look at those that had or were capable of WiFi connectivity and had a USB port for connectivity to a laptop type device to allow computer control at some point if you chose. Oh - and budget! Consequence, I would not recommend any specific make/model, they all have pros and cons, devotees and detractors, sorry if that's not the help you were seeking!

Depends on the default values of the decoder you are looking at. F2 is often a push and hold function to sound a horn so unlikely the tester would illuminate, F3 onwards can be defined in many ways. Check the manual for the decoder for details, they may not have a value until you set one.

This was a thread on another forum and the conclusion there was that Futura Narrow Font was the closest to the "old" style and used in extra bold on stock.

As RFS says, an accessory decoder will do the job unless you are powering something with pretty heavy demand e.g. a lighting rig. You need to know the output load to know if the decoder would be adequate or what rating of relay to buy. From the same manufacturer as the ECoS, the ESU SwitchPilot would do the job for you either directly or via a relay. If you are switching a significant load and want to use a 12V car type relay, follow the decoder instructions for the terminals to use but generally connect the common (C) to relay terminal 30 and output (A) to relay terminal 87. Split the positive feed for the lights and attach the feed and output ends to relay terminals 85 and 86. The earth feed to your lights would not pass through the relay. You would need to program the accessory decoder to give constant output rather than a pulse.

I have used a larger version in HO but wonder if this could fit the bill for your handrail? https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=railing&PN=Graupner-450.1-Rail-Stanchion-2-hole-10mm-G450_1.html#SID=287 along with some fine brass wire

A big part is personal preference but for simplicity and convenience, modern acrylics are much simpler to use and every bit as effective. The main issue for me is the ability to have a pallet of shades and use them in turn with a simple dip in water and wipe to clean the brush between rather than thinners and the inevitable smell. If at some point you are thinking of trying airbrushing, then I would firmly recommend acrylics as they are much simpler to use than enamel, especially the Vallejo Air range, as it is ready to use and cleaning the airbrush after use much easier than enamels - in my experience. Having said all of that - I still prefer humbrol enamel yellow over any acrylic to give a solid colour!

Does some lovely tram models which seem to be his speciality. Technically his approach is interesting in contrast to what a lot of folk are doing in that he constructs the model like an injection moulded kit within a surrounding sprue rather than trying to print a complete shell. Its a resin printer at very high resolution but I suspect as the print job is relatively flat i.e. fewer layers. The only big build up is the shell of the cab. Its probably relatively quick to print, unlikely to warp and economic as there will be little support material. It's a very ingenious approach.

Guess it was enough tarnish to loose contact. Interesting.....

Swap the two receivers to ensure that it is indeed the receiver that is the culprit. It could be a bad connection to the box. Bachmann do a repair service but as it is a "simple" IR receiver, probably cheaper to buy a replacement than get it repaired.