JimFin

Just to add to your research - http://rhbstations.co.za/stations/muot/ Really useful website.

Glad you have not had a problem Robert, I had basic ply come up in a whole series of ridges as the first ply layer delaminate just with putting modroc on it and leaving it to dry. I was pleasantly surprised when my local timber merchant (rather than DIY store) quoted only £7 difference for external grade on an 8 X 4 sheet.

Some good advice above, to which I would add - Don't use MDF for the baseboard tops. It will almost certainly warp / blow over time and give you no end of trouble. Stick with an exterior / marine grade plywood. Alignment dowels in the joining faces with over centre snap clips on the edges of the baseboard are an effective and quick solution to link the boards together. Having short (2" / 50mm) sections of track that you drop in over the base board joins once the layout is hooked together is another solution to continuity. On my exhibition layouts, I use a product called Tracklay which is a closed cell foam but self adhesive on the ballast side. This gives a degree of sound deadening and a raised edge to the trackbed. I would agree that using PVA to fix ballast has a number of issues and I would not recommend it. I use artists Matt Medium ( Windsor and Newton / Daler Rowney) diluted 50 / 50 with water and dropped on to the ballast. Is remains flexible, almost toffee like, allowing some adjustment for a few days before setting, even then its not a firm as PVA which sets rock solid. An alternative is commercially produced pre-ballasted underlay (Gaugemaster / Noch). I used this on a small N gauge layout and was pleasantly surprised at how effective it was, very easy to use and much less time consuming. Hope you have lots of fun with the project!

Looks interesting with lots of operational potential. Only change I would suggest would be to make the front siding a passing loop where you could hold a train while another passed through.

Half relief warehouses in front of the sector plate and full depth at the end of the sector plate. Not a "classic" bridge, but going over the tracks from the industrial building -

I agree with that sentiment but your choice may be driven by how you are going to create the backscene. Commercial versions seem to be 9, 12 or 15" tall but if you are painting or having your own printed, make is as tall as you can. If you have access to a printer, do a couple of A4 pages with a picture (Portrait orientation) and see how that looks for you as it would be just shy of 12"

I do see an issue with this as well, so long as you are happy that tracks 5 and 6 can only link to track C you are OK but if you wanted them to link to A or B - there is a problem.

I mentioned on another post re airbrushing that a jewellery type ultrasound cleaner is a great help in cleaning and keeping jets clear, after a painting session, strip the brush down and toss all small parts in the ultrasound bath for about 90 seconds. Should set you back sub £20 - mine came from Aldi.

I would agree with that thought. My understanding is that the NMRA tables indicate the required end result for a specific CV value but it is up to individual manufacturers how they achieve that result. As is often the case with software, there can be many ways to achieve a specific end result, some more elegant than others, some more robust than others but to understand how a specific decoder achieves a specific end result would mean going into the manufacturers source code and reverse engineering it since I suspect they would all decline to give you access to their intellectual property. Studying some open source material gives a clue as to the approaches required - for example the NmraDcc section on this webpage is a start - http://www.lucadentella.it/en/2018/12/31/dcc-configurazione-decoder-con-cv/ BUT unless you want to get into open source programming, its not going to help a lot - so again - I think that is about the only workable approach.

Dont over fuss about levelling the bed. Set it roughly according to the instruction without faffing about too much and then set it to print a shape say a square 100 X 100 X 1 high with a brim base. As the printer is printing the brim, make fine tune adjustments to the bed using the knurled dials at the bed. Less than a quarter turn at a time and the results are immediately visible. You are aiming to see a flattened bead which is adhering to but not spread out onto the bed. Once happy, abandon the job, clear the bed and set your proper job off. Levelling with paper and the like can only go so far, its better to make fine adjustments with a print bead.

Good work tracking them down - annoyingly no use for HOm. Print job is finished and if they prove successful, will share the results.

Try https://www.anyrail.com/en/download - for the size you are planning, the free version would be enough.

It does indeed operate up to 4 solenoid or motors and 2 servo motors. If you have lots more servos, then their Servo Pilot operates 4 servos. I operate them with RocRail so assume JMRI would be the same.

Good luck with that then! I found this helpful - but - would love to know where he got the nice guide tools from because the Sommerfeld guide 158 is - well - naff. Currently 3D printing something more usable. You will get another take on the feel you are looking for here - - https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@47.662457,8.9771442,3a,75y,297.01h,69.16t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1sA_OtVu1f5r0z2vH8MkCVCA!2e0!6s%2F%2Fgeo2.ggpht.com%2Fcbk%3Fpanoid%3DA_OtVu1f5r0z2vH8MkCVCA%26output%3Dthumbnail%26cb_client%3Dmaps_sv.tactile.gps%26thumb%3D2%26w%3D203%26h%3D100%26yaw%3D133.73853%26pitch%3D0%26thumbfov%3D100!7i13312!8i6656?hl=en-GB

Appreciate the question has been answered and progressed but here is an alternative solution. Use a 4 function decoder with the function outputs set to pulse. Use an ESU Servo Pilot controller but essentially in analogue mode. Only provide a power supply to the power socket, no input to the track socket. Wire the common + to the manual inputs, F1 and F2 to the directional pins for point 1 and F3 and F4 for point 2. Connect the servos and program using the Servo Pilot buttons (per instructions) for start, end, and speed control. It would have capacity for a further 2 servos, either for points, semaphore signals or other moving accessories if you upgraded to an 8 function chip and you could still make use of the directional light capability and of course connect the motor function to the Meccanno motor and gearbox under the turntable, that's not a joke either, it works on my layout!

Duncan - if you go that route, my experience is you need to buy the "Knife Blade" accessory (£25 - £30) to cut 0.200 plasticard.

An alternative approach. Go to - https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Main_Page and search for Swiss Panorama. Have a hunt and find a file that would fit the bill and greater than 10mb. Download and take to you local print shop or sign maker and have it printed to your dimensions on Vinyl. There is a temporary one - just A3 pages - on my 2013 layout thread but gives you an idea of whats out there.

Many thanks Paul, I was thinking of something similar. Did you have a problem getting the span extensions onto the posts? I think I am going to have to file away about 1mm to get them to fit. Have to wait until a CMX comes up at a good price. Must admit, have not had a problem with dirty track since I saw a Liverpool MRC idea which I modified. Basically two sandwich bag clips that hold a strip of paper towel over the track at the fiddle yard which I soak with a few drops of cleaning alcohol. All wheels of every train that runs in or out get a clean.

Having been wrangling with centenary and overhead lines, I am now committed to staying in the steam era! Given this is a sectional exhibition layout, anyone got tips for the overhead wire at the baseboard joins? Sommerfeldt posts and profi wire. (0.5mm)

Its an interesting review, we looked at the Scan N Cut last year but settled on a Cricut Maker. The Cricut mentioned in the review is an older model and I am happy with the ability to get through 20 thou styrene cleanly with the Cricut Maker. The main purpose of the machine in our house is quilt making and neither the boss or I could really get to grips with the purpose of the scan element of the Brother machine. It felt like it was there just because they could - and it doubles the price compared to Cricut or Silhouette. I would be interested in any comments as to what purpose the scan component could be put to.

John, probably Val002, Model Air yellow which corresponds to RAL 1003 "Signal Yellow" which was an approved colour for loco warning panels but I am sure The Fatadder can confirm. Again, you might find this link helpful - http://www.creativemodels.co.uk/paint_conversion.php/manufacturers_id/2/page/1

I have used this successfully - one coat applied by brush, colour is fractionally darker once coated but provides good protection. Should be available at local DIY store. https://www.ronseal.com/for-home/wall-treatments/stain-block-paint/one-coat-stain-guard-clear-coat/

A tip when you have finished a session is to get an ultrasonic cleaner. They come up at Aldi (probably other places as well) for £19.99 or a lot less if you are patient. Marketed as a jewellery cleaner. Strip the airbrush down, chuck it in the bath for about 90 seconds and it will be perfect. Not exactly but this might help if you can find either the RAL codes or another known match. http://www.creativemodels.co.uk/paint_conversion.php?manufacturers_id=2

I use aviation / bulkhead type connectors that plug and lock together on my sectional exhibition layout. Come with many wire options and have proved to be completely reliable so far. Bit of a fiddle to wire the 9 pin versions. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GX20-19mm-Aviation-Plug-Socket-Circular-Multipole-Connector-Bulkhead-2-12pin/153523122701?var=453510603238&hash=item23beb0f20d:m:mUdMSfUs_E-kNYQCWuFPXSQ

Only one I know in N is Sommerfeldt - https://www.sommerfeldt.de/de/Quertragwerk-mit-2-Masten-fuer-max--5-Gleise.html