JimFin

Bit of lateral thinking here - print the windows in a line across the sheet and cut off the whole top strip, return the slightly shorter sheet to the paper hopper ready for the next row. With the configuration of most printer rollers you can probably get it down to about the last 2 inches before the printer rejects it. experiment with a page of A4 copy paper to see exactly how your printer behaves, I use the same technique with decal paper.

Maybe - more tonal variation in the orange tint, lighter at the top, darker as it fades to the horizon, not as extreme a fade as your inspiration but in that direction.

Not economically, cheaper to replace. Basic LAIS decoders cost less than £10 and higher end Zimo from £20.

Hi Jeremy, relatively easy as I designed it in to the construction. There is a slot at each side of the underside of the canopy to accommodate self adhesive LED strip. After this is fitted the finishing layer has slots the same width as 2 LED's and covers the strip between each pair. The exposed LED's are covered with a diffuser. The LED strip has to be cut at as per instructions - so this influenced the length - and 2 wires dropped at each side to connect under the baseboard. It is 3D printed but would be straightforward to construct from card / balsa / plasticard - these are the components - This was my reference photo for the design -

Starting to look as I had planned.

I use Humbrol or "Crystal Clear" from a local store. Found out the hard way that if you don't spray and seal them, the UV fade is quite dramatic depending on exposure to sun, paper and ink used. Red brick rapidly becomes very pink. The other experience I gained is to spray when humidity is relatively low or you can end up with a white bloom to the finish.

No direct experience but only the SL1 from their range would deliver what you are looking for. I have never been able to understand why it seems so much more expensive then the Anycubic Photon or Elegoo Mars.

Quite a fleet you are building up!

If you have done the design work in Anyrail you can print your templates direct from there - just select the 1:1 option in the print menue. Sadly will not help the original poster as he is using a mac and as far as I am aware, Anyrail is only available for Windows PC.

Having finished the overhead knitting, the advice re track cleaning floated to the top of the pile but in the absence of a CMX cleaner becoming available, I read up on alternative and am giving a Sharge unit a go. (http://www.model-trainstrack-cleaner.co.uk/) Converted from HO by to HOm by using 2 spare Bemo coach bogies, fitting 7mm spacers and slightly longer bolts than supplied to preserve the ride height. Early days but seems to be doing the job so far.

I am curious as to the benefit of this technique as with some of my Swiss buildings I have simply used woodstain from a DIY store. What is the advantage to india ink?

Led lighting strip ranges from 3.8w / meter to 41.4w / meter so it depends on what LED strip you are going to use.

Depending on how you are providing power to the turntable bed, mechanically, use wipers to pick up from the main track to the rail on the turntable bed or design the feed commutator to do that.

An ambitious and testing project. I really like the scale of the buildings as it shows the railway in a "lifelike" environment and admire you plans for the track - I confess I would chicken out at that and stick to off the shelf. Look forward to updates as and when life allows.

Looks good, only other thought - is the heated bed working and at the right temperature - about 60 for PLA

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.gamebasic.decibel&hl=en_GB

Any way to put a hood over it? I have a clear plastic storage box I use as a hood on the top of my Ultimaker and cover the front aperture when I am printing with ABS which is particularly heat sensitive.

Generally - wherever you are printing is too cold. Point is made on a few 3D print forums, this gives a good description - Cool environmental conditions are the single biggest contributor to delamination. Delamination or edge/corner cracking is caused by warping stresses when the first layer adhesion is stronger than the interlayer bonding. Or it happens when the heated build plate allows a strong non-warping foundation to be built until the print is too tall to be adequately warmed by the plate. In either case, the corners of the first layer can't lift, so the print cracks elsewhere to relieve the stress. Other possible issues are under extrusion which could be a sticky / jamming spool or the feed mechanism needing a service.

Wooden toothpicks make good stirrers.

One way is to fix the building down first and then build the pavement / scenery around it -

Its very simple so Tinkercad suffices.

Good tool for the job in that scale. Attached is a work in progress, feel free to play about with it. (need to scale down by 58%) assembly diagram (5).stl

Will be interesting to see how you develop this. what gauge scale are you modelling and what printer will you be using? Have seen some nice 3d printed work in Nm.

This is how my height gauges for Sommerfeld work - The base is slotted at 12mm so it clips onto the track and is set to 69mm being the height of the cross wire. Just taped on a bit of wire with a 90 degree vertical hook at the end. Slide the cross wire support down the post onto the wire and solder to the outside of the post. Remove jig and solder inside. Top of the cross member is to be 100mm above the top of the track so the gauge is 93.3mm to the lower edge of the girder. Same process as before but making sure its at 90 degrees to the mast. Files for these and a 67mm gauge to set the height of the conducter wire are attached if anyone wants to print their own. I could run off a couple of sets if folk wanted them for the cost of postage, I designed them for Peco track and Sommerfeldt RhB componenets - I doubt if they would be any use for anything else. mast alignment tool (5).stl

Well the electrification has progressed once I made some guides to set heights etc for the wires. What surprised me with the Sommerfeldt Profi wires is that I had to use a dremel to smooth the joins of the power wire and the droppers as pantographs were snagging on the joins. Advancing the station has been another job as it had to be done before gantries and wires restricted access. Still WIP but please with the way the lighting is working out.