JimFin

Thanks for the work you have put into this, much appreciated. I would be happy with either profile but think there is a relationship between the profile and the 3mm track bed question. If the left were adopted, I would prefer the 3mm option. If the right were adopted, probably prefer the plain as the combined shoulder and drop might be a bit severe. No issue with the board being deeper if required. 8mm holes to take 6mm bolts with repair/penny washers. Track bed width, 50mm looks better to me as demonstrated by Paul. Retaining walls - steeper as the land gets taller would get my vote.

I have used a few Anycubic resin products but settled on their Eco resin as it is very low odour, used black and grey but find grey much easier to work with. Recently moved to mix this with 20% Siraya Tech resin as it gives a much more flexible and less brittle print. https://tinyurl.com/cmfbbm5k This is an N gauge H section catenary mast. You do need to tune the exposure time of your printer with each type and colour of resin you use with a resin exposure test file as there are variations in the settings to get the highest quality finish. In terms of painting, I use a rattle can of plastic primer, either grey, red or white depending on what the intended top coat is going to be, never had a problem with that followed by acrylic based paints. I bought an Anycubic Wash and Cure machine and find it invaluable in the process, in my mind a very worthwhile investment to compliment the printer. All these are Nm based on RhB prototypes - WIP.

It is CRC 2-26 - https://tinyurl.com/34xy34pn

Nice morning to take your layout for a walk! Never before seen view, Neuburg stacked.

I have developed the Nm9 version of this print as I have become more proficient with the printer and types of resin. Came up with the 3 versions, once you have the base done, amending is easy enough. They are not exact but good visual representations of different iterations. They are built to fit the TU-TMC100 chassis which is running in nicely. www.flickr.com/photos/148810032@N02/50999700854/in/album-72157718407645578/

Rule 1 - your railway, you run what you want.

Something to factor in to your dimensioning - do you plan to have full overhead catenary or masts and spans without the actual power cables? Reason I raise this is the overhead cables really do impinge on your ability to get at things. If you are planning to have the overhead wires, a narrower board may be more comfortable, just masts and spans then wider would not have the same limitations.

No - "Eneminein".

Having spent time making up the packing crates for 2013, decided to run some trains and have a go at videoing them before dismantling the layout. Did not have much stock out, just what happened to be on the traverser but this was the result - https://www.flickr.com/photos/148810032@N02/albums/72157718652004486

I think the issues with hobby/home printing goes a lot deeper than that. Every different brand/model printer has its own characteristics and print tolerances which would need to be accommodated and often compensated for before printing. Any model I create, I do so with the constraints of the printer in mind but virtually anything downloaded from an online repository has to be amended for the printer. There is also the constraint of the material being used, be that filament or resin. Different filaments and resins all have different properties which have to be factored into what you are producing and the material requirements for the purpose intended. Some objects require stability, others flexibility others will fail if brittle etc. Once you have worked through those issues, you need to consider the slicer software being used as it is a critical component in producing an acceptable result. In the case of filament printers, tuning to adjust layers, print speeds etc and with resin printers, constructing an appropriate support structure and optimising print angle etc. In some respects, the slicer software is every bit as complex as the design process. The platform for your idea already exists in GrabCAD where components and projects exist to download for commercial/home printing, either free or paid for, worth a look at as I find it a useful resource.

It is indeed coming along very nicely and you are quite right about robust testing, it pays off in the long run and very satisfying when you get to the stage of it all performing as you would want. It is a very ingenious piece of track design, wonderful to see it in operation. When you are planning out the scenery, do make sure you have decent subterranean access as you just know where its going to derail at the most awkward spot just to spite you..........

Thought I had a picture somewhere -

The best are probably are the CMX track cleaner (Expensive brass American) - swap the HO bogies for HOm or the Sharge (cheaper plastic Scottish) version of the same, also swap the bogies.

I think that is terrific - it has just the right look and feel to it. Would love to see that - had plans to be at the AGM, maybe next time......

Great work - looking forward to developments.

Not on the maintrack unless the loco you wish to reprogram is the only loco on track. Service track is better / safer.

Buy a dremel and mirror - far more useful.

All sounds good - stick with the profile as was but delete the front bolt hole to give space for a stringer. Is a group purchase of an initial order the best way forward or to find a supplier who will do them to order for folk individually?

That would mean adding the 20mm strip to each of the other profiles to keep alignment.

Spent some time in the workshop this morning to produce a timber purchase / cutting list for a couple of projects, would like to suggest an amendment to one of the Nm end templates. The steeply sloping template leaves very little space (30mm) at the front edge for a baseboard stringer and I think if a simple 20mm strip were added to the bottom edge, a classic 2" X 1" could be better accommodated. everything else stays the same for connectivity etc. Views / comments appreciated. Addition in red and indicative position for stringers as below -

This one I think - I was lucky, I found them in our local hobby shop back in the day when you could browse! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Washes-Set-Vallejo-Water-Based-Acrylic-Brand-New-in-Box-VAL73998/324276276884?hash=item4b805f4e94:g:gWMAAOSw8d1fT2~s

Vallejo actually do a nice set of washes which I have found really good for stock, buildings and figures, you need to find the mixed colour set.

"Delux scenic shovelled snow" which I think may have been replaced with https://deluxematerials.co.uk/products/scenic-snowflakes-500ml Just dusted the scene from the shaker and it's stayed put for over 2 years now!

And after a light snowfall -

The wash and cure was what convinced me to give resin printing a go. It is a super device and very effective but you cannot escape, it's all a bit more messy than FDM.