JimFin

Think I will start a fresh one. I enjoy being able to read a thread which runs through the development of a single project rather than one with composites ideas that can jump about a bit. I would also like to thank and congratulate Paul on the draft he has put forward, a great piece of work for us to get to grips with. Essentially, I would be happy to work with those standards. The questions in the Appendix, I would vote for - Height to top of rail - I would be happy with the range proposed, and increments, on p3 of the draft i.e. 1000 to 1300. Minimum radii - 300 works for me but happy to go with less if that suits other folk. Gradient - I would have gone with 5% but have not experimented as fully as others so if 4% is more practical, so be it. Ballast and scenic - I think this could be left as a recommendation with the material suggested but free to adopt or not. Couplings - happy with the proposal but a question - any idea where can we source the Micro Trains magnetic couplers? Is it worth adding that each piece of stock used on a combined layout must be indelibly marked on the underside to identify the owner?

A day return Chur - Arosa might fit the bill. Lovely journey each way, walk round the lake, some lunch or a visit to Barenland makes a good day out and not too taxing.

Made "in the style off" may be the answer,

This is intended to be be my next project, just bought a bucket of track and points. Intend to make a freestanding series of modules that will provide a layout for my own use but using Paul's end profiles so that, as when we can, try and join them up.

I am sure you will have fun with it. Anycubic can be a bit hit and miss with supplies, you may might be safer ordering resin via their Amazon shop rather than direct, it seems more reliable. I would highly recommend the Wash and Cure - removes many of the reasons I delayed getting a resin printer.

Not heard of Derails until I read this thread as I was looking for a reliable supplier with items actually in stock. Placed my order for track and points on Friday 22nd January and items all arrived this morning, Monday 25th January. Very impressed and was kept informed of progress throughout. Will be back to them when I have more pocket money......

Might be worth putting a DC voltage through the bus and using a multimeter to verify polarity and making sure their is no continuity through the insulated joins.

Good that they are keeping bang up to date with their range.

Got some from RS Supplies, not cheap but excellent. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/plastic-film/5363980/

Out now - https://www.bemo-modellbahn.de/?fbclid=IwAR1KHJ2kOjhJ581ciYEffr3JTQS_rj5N1iZsWHcAfrXze7hoE2l3ZQ0w3uM Neu_H0mH0e0m_21_mail.pdf

Paul and his Bonsai has a lot to answer for - it takes a lot of effort to avoid getting sucked in....... Looks like you are making a great start to your project, many thanks for sharing.

I found using a Stanley window scraper to lift a corner of the print let me get the big scraper in without resorting to the lump hammer.

I would say that was a sensible, pragmatic and aesthetically pleasing outcome. The overhead wires are just a complete PITA and best avoided! I am still in therapy from my experience of installing them......

So - what I now understand the situation to be is - IF the trader is registered in an EU country under an exporter scheme, they can deduct their countries VAT, if they are not in an exporters scheme, they cannot deduct. If the seller is a private individual or not registered, they are not charging VAT so no deduction is possible. eBay will add 20% to the amount due and pass to HMRC. A further twist - "This is eBay’s statement: Starting from January 1, 2021, eBay will, in accordance with laws and regulations, treat goods imported into the UK and sold to consumers in the UK with a value of not more than £135, as well as for sellers of non-UK companies, stored in the UK in advance and sold to British consumers’ goods are collected and paid for British value-added tax. From the above date, eBay directly collects the corresponding value-added tax from the buyer in accordance with local laws and regulations and pays the collected value-added tax to the relevant agencies." This impact being, even if the listing says the location is London - a further 20% may be added if the account holder is non-UK member and the item was being held in a warehouse.

But as far as I understand, only if the German (or other EU) trader has a VAT registration as an exporter which permits VAT free exports otherwise they have to charge it? Anyone know different?

On the subject of fumes, got a supply of the plant based resin at the beginning of the week. Having done the REFR test print, it actually uses exactly the same settings as the basic resin and it is odourless as far as I can tell.

I have a Mono X and so far delighted with it but still on the learning curve. Speed is a pleasant surprise as the penny had not dropped that resin printing time is soley determined by the number of layers rather than the complexity of the shape - as with an FDM printer. Resolution of detail is superb. Handrail on the test print body below are 0.29mm diameter. Damage to them was down to my poor handling of the support material.

There are literally dozens if not hundreds of them, just google 3d printing services in your local area and see what there is. I suggest that approach so you can discuss with them and get a personal service, particularly as you will need advice on the way models need to be constructed to achieve good printed results. The only one I have any knowledge of is https://www.goprint3d.co.uk/ in Ripon who did a job for a friend and he was happy with it.

I opted for Sharge - same methodology as CMX with a tank drip feeding a spring loaded pad that is adjustable for pressure. I converted mine to HOm to run under overhead power on a Swiss based layout. Not brass construction but not the price of a CMX either! Works very well for me. https://www.model-trainstrack-cleaner.co.uk/shop/

IF you use Facebook, there is a group for Faller Car System which I belong to and Magnorail gets discussed there from time to time. One of the links was to - https://www.magnorailoz.com.au/faqs.html I saw this comment which seems similar you your issue - "Gary from the UK writes: Hi been watching your builds with the magnorail they are very informative but my problem is the chain when it gets to the motor it rises out of the chain when testing it before road goes down it also happens when a temp road surface is laid any suggestions? My only thoughts are that 1. You haven’t completely pushed the white plastic plug into the cog tightly enough giving two differing heights between the drive wheels. 2. refit the O rings ensuring they are level with each other 3. make sure you screw down a cover over the drive section - I use a very thin piece of acetate and then put the roadbed over that ensuring that there is a constant pressure over the drive gear -Screws are supplied by Magnorail to either hold down your roadbed or .the acetate. 4. Your chain might be too tight and working against itself - there is a fine line between tight and sloppy but like anything it is just a matter of fine tuning the system." Hope something there helps.

Was he on the slopes then?

Neat trick with fitting the LED's - I have used adhesive foam pads which are fairly crude so will give your method a go next time.

I am using Anycubic's own resin to start with and using this in a spare bedroom. It's not terribly strong, keep the door closed and window just open when printing and it seems fine. Once I have cracked the set up will try the plant based resins which I understand are near odourless. That has been an eye opener as I was not keen on some of the processes involved handling resin. So once off the build plate and excess resin has dripped off, drop it in the basket and 2, 4 or 6 minutes in the IPA bath and it comes out perfect. I have found that that is a good moment to remove the support material while it is still soft, air dry which is very quick with the IPA and then onto the curing turntable for 2, 4 or 6 minutes. At that point, its ready for any post production tidying and off to the paint shop. TBH - the IPA has a stronger smell than the resin. The level of detail and resolution this machine is achieving compared to my FDM printer is amazing. Anything involving small components or detail that would be lost on the FDM is perfect with this.

Sounds for all the world as though something in the control box has melted down and shorted. Surprised it blew the house main fuse though, did the plug you fitted have a 3A fuse? I would have expected that to go first. I would just get in touch with your supplier to get it replaced.

Got mine last week and getting to grips with it - I think! Bought it the Wash and Cure and must say both are excellent machines. First surprise was the speed of printing compared to FDM as each layer is a fairly instant process compared to the FDM nozzle travelling the shape. Grant you there are more layers but it means the speed of print is directly related to number of layers rather than complexity. Second surprise was the ability to handle fine detail and the resolution it achieves. My main involvement is with Swiss HOm and I had a cad from a previous project of a Schoma shunter which it handles perfectly. Ran it through again at 58% size for the Nm scale and was amazed that the 0,29mm handrails printed perfectly, just not careful enough trimming away the support material. Lots more learning to do but happy user.