Damo666

NCE and their USB Interface and JMRI If you were to watch Larry Puckett (aka ‘The DCC Guy’ on YouTube), you’d be led to believe that a lot of people have trouble in setting up their NCE USB Interface. And I can see why, the published instructions seem to change a lot. I would preface this by saying that Larry’s YT videos are very well presented. No waffle, in a logical sequence and clear videography (none of this holding your mobile in one hand whilst trying to solder in the other, and all you see is the back of their hand whilst hearing a description about ‘this is the important part to solder’). Larry’s YT gave me the confidence to proceed with the operations and I’m a subscriber to his channel, so this is certainly NOT a criticism. It’s more an indication that things have moved on since Larry’s YT, which I hope to address from my experience yesterday. First, the most important part of the process is the Quick Start on the back page of the NCE booklet. I got my new NCE USB Interface yesterday, yet the manual was last revised Sept 2012. This is my booklet: Larry’s video was uploaded in June 2020, just 3 years ago and his booklet is different (yet confusingly they are both ‘last revised’ 27th Sept 2012). Here's a screenshot from his video. You can see there are 8 steps instead of 6, and the web links are different. And neither are correct. Here’s what I did yesterday to get it working (and my potential mistake too). I'm on Windows 10 with all the latest updates. The Quick Start is certainly the 1st step, and the links they provide. They make it clear that there is a certain order to do things, otherwise the set-up will fail. All advice says that if you have JMRI already on your PC, uninstall it and all DCC hardware profile folders that JMRI set up, then re-boot your PC. My USB board came will all the jumper switches sset to OFF (The jumpers were stored sitting on only one pin). This corresponds with the instructions on Step 1 on this link: https://ncedcc.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/200590919-usb-driver-downlaod-and-installation Step 2 of the NCE booklet says we should download the USB drivers, but the link below tells us that Windows 7 & 10 will most likely play nicely and download the correct driver for us no need to do it manually. My Win10 PC downloaded the driver OK. On another link NCE tells us that Win11 will probably play nicely too. https://ncedcc.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115001995503-Using-the-USB-Interface-with-JMRI-Read-Me-First Then follow the steps as per the printed manual, including installing JMRI. Once you are up and running, NCE recommend this squuence: 1. Make sure that the DCC system AND PC are BOTH turned off. 2. Plug in all cables. - NCE DCC and PC / USB 3. Turn on the Power Cab FIRST. Wait for the red light to come on. 4. Turn on the PC next. 5. Fire up JMRI last. My ‘mistake’ was that I set the BAUD rate to 19200 in JMRI (Edit menu > Preferences > click ‘Advance Connection Settings’) and also in Device Manager > Ports > USB-SERIAL CH340 (COM3). Right-click > Properties >Port Settings Tab. [Don't do this, read on] You should be seeing green status lines at the bottom of the DecoderPro screen. I was getting red. It was not until I set both JMRI Preferences and Device Manager Port settings back to 9200 baud that I get the green status. Missing from my manual, but Larry refers to it, is Jumper 1 on the USB interface board. This sets the Baud rate. JP1 Off is 9600 baud, jumper linked is ON = 19200 baud. Changing jumper 1 to 19200, thereby matching the Device and JMRI, made no difference to JMRI, I was still getting a red status message. I reverted the Device Port and JMRI back to 9600 and its all singing nicely. Incidently, I've left Jumper 1 on (19200), Device Manager is 9600 and JMRI is 9600 too, and I’m still getting a green status light.

From the ESU Link: Tried the coach on an old Hornby analogue power supply. I know power is going to the track (track tester LED) but no sign of any light. Waited for 1 minute in case there was a capacitor requiring charging.

So, the first thing I've learnt is that I've to look at this as a 'loco' decoder and not an accessory. Even so, Loco 3 and F2 don't turn on the coach lights. Neither does F1 to F6, or 'Bell' or 'Headlight'. I've tried to re-programme the coach using both 'Programme on Track' and 'Programme on Main', but my NCE says it cannot write to the decoder. I'll read through the ESU links @Dungrange provided later this evening after work, with special attention to the resistive load on the contacts requirement (think I know what this means, but not sure how to check if I cannot safely open the coach for fear of damaging the wires off the bogies). Thanks to all for your help so far.

I've just received a second-hand Hornby Arriva Trains Wales coach with 'ESU DCC Lighting fitted', and I don't know how to turn the lighting on. There were no instructions with the coach, just the Hornby packaging, so I'm assuming it's an after-market addition. I've placed it on my test track with my NCE PowerCab and it cannot read the decoder manufacturer or version (using Programme on Track). All 4 axels have a 'spring' wire wound around the axel. Trying to remove the coach body, the seating platform seems to be stuck to the coach sides, so if I lift the coach body too much I'll pull on the fine wires coming through the bogies. This means I cannot see inside to investigate. If I can understand how to turn on/off the lighting I'll be happy, don't need to open it up. Any ideas please? This is my first accessory with coach lighting.

Thank you Nigel for this. It's explained a lot to me, but I think I'll need to read it a couple of more times for it all to fall into place. You have touched on DCC++EX. I've just come across this protocol after pretty much convincing myself that the original DCC++ was where i needed to start looking. This is exactly what I need to do. I generally have little spare time, so every time I get to play with my layout I have to keep referencing the NCE manual to do anything apart from speed and change direction. The idea of a simple visual display is appealing. Also, JMRI seems like an easy way to change CVs, the method via the NCE PowerCab is too complicated for an occasional need. I've programmed a lot of my points with IPDigital Cobalt motors, but again, trying to run a loco and then remember which point to throw on the NCE .... well it just takes me too much time. I'm sure if I had more time it would be like driving a car, second nature. It's my plan to make a mimic-panel once I finalise my layout, but this is still in flux. I think I'm now narrowing my options to either: 1. NCE with the USB Adaptor and JMRI. In this set-up, can I assume that I can use the PowerCab and the JMRI software throttle simultaneously? [EDIT: Having re-read Nigel's reply I see that this is correct.] 2. DCC++ / DCC++EX on an Arduino with shield and JMRI, but then my NCE throttle would be redundant.

Researching this now, and trying to get clarity on how this works. Been looking at Little Wicket Railroad on YouTube, and he's given me confidence to 'borrow' my daughter’s Arduino and try out DCC++. I already have an NCE PowerCab, and thought these systems would be in addition, but from what I can see, my NCE PowerCab wouldn't be necessary. Am I correct in saying there are the following ways to control a DCC system. 1. NCE PowerCab (or throttle by many other manu's) 2. JMRI software on a computer and a Sprog 3. Don't need a separate throttle like my NCE PowerCab. 3. JMRI software with an NCE USB Adaptor. Then I can use a computer to programme my decoders and also run the locos. But then, what's the purpose of the NCE Throttle? 4. JMRI software on a computer and DCC++ on an Arduino connected via USB cable. Again, the computer controls the locos on the track and I don't need the throttle. My understanding may be way out, as I'm still trying to get my head around the various systems, so would appreciate any corrections. Is it possible to have the JMRI and Sprog controlling the layout and the NCE PowerCab also connected? Do they recongise the instructions by the other and compliment each other, or does this cause the layout to trip over itself? @woodenhead I understand your anxiety. I too leave off starting something new because I fear it's a long learning-curve and I don't have the time at the moment, so will leave it until I have the time to spare, or until I feel I know everything (which is why I've never got around to selling anything on eBay, even thought I want to; the fear that it's too complicated to avoid getting scammed, will under price it, etc). Did you get around to wiring your cobalts up? @john new Have you moved forward with this, any advice?

Caught a low-flying pigeon - now ex-pigeon? 😄

@Ripstitch I think Rogerdee meant to say he changed to 'NCE' or NCE PowerCab. I'm guessing the autocorrect gremlin made a visit.

Forget fictitious, I'm looking to replace my fleet of CIE Hymeks (think LIMA did these originally, then Hornby, for the Irish market). With such old tooling, these must be ripe models for the Accurascale treatment.

I'll have to spend more now just to save some money. Wait,.... hang on...

Different materials will expand/contract at different rates. You may have heard the term 'Coefficient of expansion'. A good example is the auto-switch off mechanism in your electric kettle. This is a bimetalic thermostat, two different metals joined at one end. A difference in temperature (from room temp to boiling point) causes one metal to expand more than the other, and breaks the circuit. It's why sheets of ply will always have an odd number of layers, 5, 7, 9 etc plys in a board. It's also why, if you paint one face of a sheet of ply, you should paint the opposite side. Getting back to card with a paper overlay. Whilst the drying glue may also have a factor in the warping, the thicker card and a thin paper will create stresses resulting in one moving more than the other. If you could glue a corresponding sheet of paper on the opposite side this would greatly reduce the risk of warping. (For the same reason, if you were getting a joinery shop to add a veneer to a sheet of ply they would put a counter or balancing veneer on the other side). Apologies for being OT, but just hoped this might be of help.

..... there's no dispute at Probate. 😁

At this stage I'd be writing to my MP and letting her/him be aware, and politely asking them to contact the rail operators as a matter of urgency and clarify the situation. It won't help on the day but might for the following days. At least the rail operators will have their cards marked if your MP is any good.

I know I'm late seeing this thread, but this confused me.

OK, thanks @McC for responding with an 'Agree'. Follow-on question then, if you don't mind. At what monarary level will UK HM Custons & Revenue look to apply Customs Duty or Excise Duty? I've not bought any items of value from the EU since Brexit, so don't know what happens. From this HMR&C web link, it would appear that 3 coaches may invoke some sort of additional fee (over £135).

I'm kinda confused. What will we be paying DHL for? I'm sure its a simple answer and I'm missing something, but for clarity: Is it that in England, Wales or Scorland we will buy it from Dublin excluding (Irish) VAT but DHL will apply the VAT and we'll have to pay them before it's delivered. Is this correct?

Very welcome news. I've been horrified at the 2nd had prices that some Craven Murphy Models have been going for, approaching a ton!. Where are they available at £52 per coach? Can only see them at €69.99 or £63.96

Apologies. I took this to mean they were made and supplied from China, so therefore cannot be exported outside China. My apologies.

Where is that, near Coedely, (in Rhondda Cynon Taff)?

Thanks for your post. My son is in HCM, so my wife and I are planning to go out to see him later in the air. He flew out on Bamboo Airways, which we never heard about before then. I know what IFE means, but what does LLC mean (Low Cost Carrier?), and what/who is SQ? Thanks D

Nice idea, if only those pesky Accurascale locos weren’t so darn heavy, you'll quickly use up your luggage allowance. Probably why RyanAir don't fly stateside.

How about some Irish CIE Craven coaches, especially covering the 1970s - 1980s, please? The 2nd-hand MM models which come up on a certain retailler seem to go for eye-watering prices, a few quid short of a £100! A few years ago I got a few from the same retailler for £32, but £95 is..... well, way outside my budget. An Accurrascale model would be most welcome (but not at £95 😁 )

I admire your aspirations. With such exacting standards you must have very few locos, if any at all. 😀

I'll contact Hornby and see what they say. Thank you for the suggestion.