Kaput

The pins on Zimo 6 pin decoders are a bit overly long for most sockets in my experience. If its not going in very securely the options are either, cut the pins a bit shorter or try and bend a little kink into a few of the pins to give it more grip. Failing that a bit of kapton tape over the decoder and socket to help hold in place can work.

Assuming its on a standard function output it will depend on the decoder you are using. The decent ones (Zimo/Lenz/ESU etc) all have brightness controlling CV's

Full on conductive couplers for HST sets seems like a solution without a problem. Would be nice if both power cars were motorised considering the price but I think most DCC users would probably settle for them putting the damned cab lights on their own function output

Trying to make my Class 33 have simple blank headcodes at each end (maybe not the most prototypical setup but I don't really want a headcode number on the back when its pushing the 4TC). Sadly Heljan no longer supply a sheet of headcodes with the 33's, whats the best option for accquiring some? Preferably self adhesive like the the ones it comes with. I'm actually wondering if a plain black sticky label will actually do the job - the factory ones are just self adhesive stickers on the back of the centre window glass.

Going by the install guide on YooChoos the 658 fits fine.

Chiltern's 68's (and 68008/9) are equipped with AAR for working with the MK3's/DVT.

Theres a small chance the instructions actually mean the function output the lights are connected to and not neccesarily the function button. For example Directional Lights Off End A is wired as Aux 1 but F1 on the decoder isn't actually set to Aux 1. Just a possiblity.

Feels like they've sort of forgot about releasing the BR late crest version

Everything I've seen so far suggests the chassis itself is completely unchanged therefore still bulbs.

Its a Zimo decoder so the full manaual is on zimo's site. Overall volume is usually on CV266 for Zimo.

Dapol use Gaugemaster decoders in their 6pin DCC fitted models. It used to be the DCC23, I assume the latest ones are the "new" DCC93 ruby things. The Imperiums are LaisDCC decoders (at least the Imperium 1 and 2 are, not used a 3 yet).

Sadly it seems to be fairly normal in N gauge. Models that feel like they should be the bread and butter things just don't seem to be getting reruns very often. In fairness though Dapol's catalogue suggests a new run of A3's to be announced soon and theres a new run of HST's due later this year (or early next year).

Umm, can the average DCC controller even do up to F30? Most I've seen only mention up to F28 (like Prodigy Express/Advanced, Powercab's etc)

The number of reports that are pretty much "bad quality control" is kinda depressing

Coaches ordered.... Powercars might need to wait for the bank balance to recover

I get the feeling from some of his ramblings just before administration that he fully blames the Chinese factories for the demise of his business and not his own complete lack of business sense.

Ultimately it will depend where the decoder socket is. If its in a driving car then 2 car operation shouldn't be a problem. if its in the center car then its a bit more trouble.

The 4TC can run as a 3TC but only the TFK coach can be removed. All the electrical control gubbins for the lights is in the TBSK and the couplers as said are designed so it can only be coupled in the correct order. You could physically couple both DTSO coaches together and run them but no idea what will happen to the lights. The couplers on the 4TC are a bit chunky but they work perfectly. The set is stable as a rock in both directions and you don't have to worry about it uncoupling on the move.

Tempting me into getting a rake + powercars (in Scotrail of course...) even though I don't really have the space for anything that long....dammit.

Theres a distinct lack of pictures of a full Scotrail rake with power cars on here.

I have a Hornby Tornado now fitted with a Zimo MX645R with Paul Chetter's Activedrive sound file. Is there any idiot proof guide on how to sync the chuff sounds with the wheel revolutions?

I decided to be brave and opened up the tender fully, turns out the speaker "enclosure" is practically just a little bit of transparent plastic stuck to the bottom of the speaker. Replaced it with one of the bases from an ESU sugarcube kit and its a fair bit better.

For the slackers that missed it was there any update on the 92's? Coming up on a year since they went into production

Well....this is going to need ordered next pay day....

Combi's are fine for coreless motors - they don't do any fancy feedback or PWM stuff.