Kaput

Correct me if I'm wrong but none of the 2019 upgraded chassis with speakers announcements have actually released yet have they?

One thing with the SPROG and connecting to a PC I've not seen mentioned is you may have to jump through a couple of hoops to get Windows 10 to load the drivers properly - there is instructions on the SPROG website but I don't think I had to do it last time i wiped my PC and reinstalled everything so you might avoid that hassle.

Using a SPROG and DecoderPro makes programming so simple I'm not sure I could ever go back to trying to program with my Progidy handset. Remapping functions to take them off the non latching F2 is a simple case of ticking and unticking some checkboxes instead of pouring over a CV list trying to figure out what CV's to change to what value. Only thing I really dislike about it is how long it takes to read a LokSound decoder since the software can't do it the way a LokProgrammer would and has to sit and read every CV individually.

So far the Imperium3 seems to be for the new batch of Class 08 shunters to give enough functions for their lights. Nothing else Dapol produce (especially in 0 Gauge) needs that many functions (yet) so most likely you'll have an Imperium1. DecoderPro literally just reads CV7 and 8 to determine make and model so even though the Dapol chips are LaisDCC they've had CV8 changed so DecoderPro can't tell they are Lais. Had a check of latest version of DecoderPro and it shows the Lais models slightly different these days - the Imperium1 and 2 are LaisDCC 8x00nn - 6 Outputs

Unless its one of the new Imperium3's then its a rebadged LaisDCC decoder so select one of those from the list. IIRC the Lais 860019 is the standard Imperium1. The Imperium3's are claimed to be a completly new decoder - have to wait for confirmation of that.

Optimistic prediction: Now that the factories are done with the OO steam cranes they can get capacity back up and actually get a decent number of the announcments from 2019 released. Realistic prediction: The Mk2F's will be delayed again....

From experience with the older tooling Dapol locos (i.e. not the 50 or 68) they require lots of running in (i.e. more than the usual 30min each direction) before they start sounding anywhere near quiet.

Don't suppose anything has been changed with the lightning controls? i.e. still the standard Bachmann 37 with the switches on the bottom and the cab lights at both ends tied together instead of being directional?

Will be in the loco on a Q1 of that vintage.

Golden rule of the Realtrack 156 is to program each car separately and set CV29 on one of them so its direction is reversed. I think the suggested settings many pages back also turn off RailCom on one car which might be advisable on an ECoS. As for which decoder is fitted - original batch were LokSound Selects, current batches might be LokSound V5 but not sure.

Don't know if its an issue for N gauge (never happened to me on the N stuff but thats with Unitrack and not Peco) but on OO some wheels can bridge both rails of a point and cause a short unless using insulating joiners on the vee of the point. See here for example of what I mean: https://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/DCC_Page_1.html (About halfway down the page)

Vaguely sure all the equipment to run from the 3rd rail is still there but the shoes themselves are removed for clearance issues on the West Highland Line.

Has anyone done anything do improve the factory speaker in their Bulleid Diesels? Curious if its worth trying to seal it with black tack or something to improve the volume a bit - not really wanting to go full on modding and soldering in a different speaker entirely just yet (my soldering skills are dire).

Back to back's a little out of gauge? My large logo one runs fine over Kato pointwork at least. Any insulated joiners on your points?

Since its a model of a preserved loco theres every chance it could be running heritage line duties tender first

Thanks both - given me some ideas and things to go on. Have ordered a spare bogie so I can experiment and still be able to restore the loco back to original state.

Picked up the new Black 5 from the 1:1 Collection - how on earth do you fit the front coupling short of gluing it in place? Its not a NEM socket and it seems to just have a screw to hold it in place however theres nothing for the screw to actually grip. Alternatively how to fit a Kadee?

Well day 1 was an amazing £1 reduction on the price of Heljan Class 07's... Some of these "deals" are verging on being false advertising since they've been at the "deal" price for months.

There is at least one detail difference between Destroyer and Brutus - the builder plate. The last few 68's were built after Stadler took over Vossloh so they have Stadler plates instead of Vossloh ones. Achilles should be a straight renumber/rename to Brutus though.

I do have to wonder how much of that is down to Dapol doing 3 runs in OO with the first 2 runs pretty much duplicating some of the numbers, IIRC most of the 2nd run was pretty much identical to the 1st except from the couple of versions modelled with the changes to the handrails/fuel tank. Suppose with the benefit of hindsight having a couple less DRS/Chiltern versions and a couple of TPE versions in the 3rd run would have been better. Pity the 88 would need so many tooling changes to make - if they could have done an 88 with minimal retooling that could possibly have helped justify another run with more TPE ones.

And in a fairly sad statement on the size of the N gauge market the N version of the TPE liveried 68 is still in stock pretty much everywhere. Not entirely sure what planet Rails are on with todays (5th) offer since only the DCC fitted version of the TPE one is on offer making the standard DCC ready one the same price...oh well.

I managed to squeeze a Zimo MX617N in mine but the chip pretty much needed kapton taped to the top of the motor to get the body back on.

Strikes me that they'd have been better shrink raying one of their OO items like the RHTT wagons or the Andrew Barclay instead of something as niche as a Garratt.

Instructions say nothing other than the very generic fitting of a decoder and the only real mentions of sound fitting is instructions for the factory fitted sound models. - nothing whatsoever on how to upgrade a DC version to DCC sound.

This might sound stupid but are the factory fitted speakers actually wired up to the PCB or do they need to be soldered to the decoder if you decide to fit sound? Asking as I was having a nosey to see if it was just a straight fit the decoder and done job but I can't actually see any wires coming from the speakers and the way they are placed makes it seem a bit tight to do any soldering.