Erixtar1992

A painted up headlamp to fit thats added into the detailing bag would actually be a great idea in my opinion. if someone fancies asking Bachmann about that then fire away!

Yeah spot on James, i myself will likely fit some replica railways headlight mouldings and look into the roof detail but they wont put me off buying them. as someone who has painted one, the lining is a nightmare, even with transfers. also disassembly of the handrails ect is a pain too and leaves you with broken bits. bachmanns paint finish is always spot on though so theyll look amazing

I asked about the roof detail on 20142 being added (as its present on the 20/3 tool) and wether 20227 would have the nose end headlight as its in the standard position. this is the seemingly copy & paste response i recieved. Urgh. but yeah seems that what you can see in the pics is what you will get. its a shame that they arent tooling for headlights ect on such a new model but i giess im just glad they are being produced.

Well at least one of them works

I have emailed them to ask, will see what they say

Guess mine will be going up for sale then! seems odd not to put the headlight on 20227 as its in the usual position.

Looks familiar ha.

Yeah mine has the adjustable power supply, i have it on 16 i think, i only use ESU decoders though so better quality stuff perhaps. Not heard of an issue with decoders failing from it but sounds interesting!

ha! Bingo! Powercab will likely be your issue then. you can buy a higher voltage power supply from DCC Concepts - which SHOULD solve the problem in theory. I had the same symptoms, trains were running okay in one direction but change the point and it will just short the layout & relay on the autofrog become EXTREMELY hot. i tried a friends gaugemaster prodigy just out of curiosity as we suspected the powercab and bingo. think the powercab is only 14-15V track power instead of the usual 16+ from memory. i upgraded controller instead as i wanted to expand anyway, to a DR5000 and with the higher track voltage i also noticed much improved running with all my locos - so it may actually do you a slight favour! but yeah, i had the same as you, your layout is likely fine mate. eric

Using a controller with a low track voltage can cause this issue, such as a powercab ect. try and borrow someone elses dcc control setup to eliminate this, as you may end up chasing problems that dont exist and ripping track up for no reason.

Can change this in the decoders file, probs be a nightmare via CVs mind without a programmer.

If you have a programmer like me then its very easy to swap over which output is for what, so generally doesnt matter. i remove the tail lights from the circuit and have them on a seperate output. usually if im going all guns blazing like on my Bachmann 66s - white - cab 1 markers yellow - cab 2 markers aux 1 - cab 1 cab light aux 2 - cab 2 cab light aux 3 - cab 1 tail lights aux 4 - cab 2 tail lights aux 5 - cab 1 day headlamp aux 6 - cab 2 day headlamp aux 7 - cab 1 night headlamp aux 8 - cab 2 night headlamp

More excuse for me to lose that massive PCB in favour of a large speaker then haha

I do that on my models, its not hard to map tbh say you have your front & rear lighting on F0, as an example f0 - forwards - front light F0, not f10 - forwards - rear light then leave F10 blank so if F0 is on, you get all lights, but press F10 and itl only turn off the tails. its much easier than having a seperate function button for each aux output

Hmm i wonder if its worth removing the PCB completely then?

Im sat here itching waiting for the HNRC ones to turn up so i can rip it apart and sort the markers lol. it is a shame that with a new model we are still going to be stuck with twin iphone speakers so no sound upgrade over the previous 20s. i may see if i can 3d print some sort of speaker housing up, idk. they look smart though

Need a 21 pin decoder that has logic level output on aux3&4.

I couldnt help but laugh at the amount of people ive seen moaning at the bodysides. they dont seem to understand that the loco is just in primer with little filler, im sure when it goes to arlington’s it will come out looking straight. bet if you stripped most other locos theyd be the same

Mute it and play a 66 clip at the same time lol

Yes. V5 micro DCC.