locomad2

Somewhere in the hoards of railway mags modelling mags someone did a scale drawing of one LMS type 2 ? and printed lots of photographs etc etc. I know cause I started to make one using the drawing, then got involved in something else, and never finished it properly. I don't know if the scale drawing is accurate but do know slight differences within each type, couple of pathe films on utube show correct coal loading lots of water to keep down coal dust. With the LNER one of the on shed books mentions that railway companies received government grants, or loans in 1930's in order to reduce labour costs. Anyone got any pictures of one been built ? assume lots of shuttering, scaffolding etc

Fascinated by this little device, clearly it's too sensitive, there is nothing wrong with, it I've some other devices to measure very small currents like uAmp (millionth of an amp). Even with all the electricity off the layout track wires etc are recording 250v ac, source is the actual locomotives themselves, stick the device in the cab of one and the magnetic flux around an armature will create a current (Red flashing light, beeping constantly 70-1000v ac live mains voltage) Really ? Course stronger the magnetic current and armature in good condition stronger the reading maybe an excellent non contact locomotive tester ? I've tried it on weaker magnets, its doesn't work as well.

Thanks for the replies discovered other things with this device it's very sensitive even some central heating devices like radiators are showing a reading. Noticed something if you unplug a mobile phone charger and put a live insulated wire between the charger plug pins, then test the wire 5 v lead connector wire no phone connected you get a reading. It's due to the hall effect electro magnetic field been picked up by the charger plug pins, and transferring the signal to the wire Out of interest I made a large circle wire with coat hanger and traced the mains wires outside. Even if you unplug all the layout supply devices just one left near a mains plug or wire and the whole layout gives a reading. Shame its 70v above doesn't work on BT phone wires 50v ac ?, still for a few £ excellent instrument just don't condemn your electrics.

Early type K's wheels if you undo the frame screws and remove the cross spacers, squeeze the frames together and the wheel axles will come off. Not a great fan of the small 10BA nuts holding the coupling rods nor the studs in the wheels often shear under load or the nuts come off use lock thread. Think they came pre quartered

I've quite a large OO layout, conventional 12v common return, 6 sections fed from rotary switches and many sub sections. I recently purchased a Lidi parkside non contact voltage tester 70 - 1000vac really to test mains voltage, however experience of a "magic pen" has shown such devices can detect shorts breaks in low voltage wires etc. Upon testing a section of track, current on, it did "buss" and red led light up, kind of expecting that, but then discovered everything else did. Yet all other switches to sections off, In fact all the wiring showed a reading and everything else did, points signals etc. Then turned all the mains switches off, still reading on everything. Finally unplugged the lot, no reading so why ? BTW tried on the lead from a mobile phone charger 5v 2 amp, no phone plugged in, again a reading, turned the switch off still a reading, pulled the plug out finally no reading. Is it that sensitive? Are all the transformers leaking main voltage ? I've tried a voltmeter on low voltage wiring no reading

As happen to Davidcboard class 08 is vulnerable to burn out, happened to my father in mid 60's while the locomotive was still under guarantee. Fortunately Meccano had an excellent repair service and factory repair was done, have a letter somewhere. Warned only to use it for shunting and be careful spent 25 years as a shunter just moving 4 coaches out of the way so leading engine could be turned. Careful management using ampmeter it's still used as a shutter and a excellent chassis, and haulier, so much so its having a new body fitted cause I like the "wasp" end, still under construction plastic cutting turning into a longer job, but getting there BTW the modern Hornby chassis & motor has failed purchased as a non runner, motor burnt out just not worth repairing, can't pull anything worthwhile anyhow

Much already said, one criticism of modern stock reviews is they don't publish pulling power in grams like model mags of the 60's and 70's. In mid 70's Model Railway Constructor compared up to then most locomotives and published haulage power in grams, I've still the article and prehaps up date it with locomotives more recent. Adding weight helps but not all modern stock is easy to get at plus puts extra strain on running gear, motors and gears. One of my projects was to see if 100 Hornby dublo wagons can be hauled round a layout, with non pin point axles, a mighty weight. It broke a few locomotives either burnt out motors, de quartered wheels and sheared a 10BA bolt used as a coupling pin. Added to that lots of coupling got ripped off bogies, tender & wagon chassis. In the end only one managed it, & 2 got near.

From 50 odd years of experience locomotives purchased by me and constantly used, oiled, cleaned have performed the best and continued to do so, perhaps not mess about with much. As yet not had to remag any of these, still under .50 amps, ampmeter in series is permanent feature and about only instrument needed. Buying 2nd hand bit like buying cars, it's the previous owners who cause the problems from "systemically wrecked" to just not looked after, plus the low mileage rust and gummed up engines. Think everyone has covered the usually suspects, but don't forget the extra wiring the condenser and choke and wires connecting them, some are over 50 years old and probably decay to some extent. I actually find running without them seems to cause all kinds of problems apart from radio inference. Another problem shorts with the body, again over the years most metal bodies fitted with insulation tape inside Often I check out this little book might be old but very useful

Very nice been reading up about them, milled chassis 1/2 motors, 4MT valve gear.

Picked up this in a toy fair some years back It's going to be a 3/4MT tank Yes my coal bunker was once a O2 phone card, usefull source of thick plastic card glues well.

The "beast" built by myself in my teens, it originally had 2 K's motors and it just about moved itself, its ended up on the repair list after the value gear broke. Always been my aim to re motor it, and get it into good working order, I've the layout now to cope with the larger curves. I could go down the route of 2 HD R1 chassis with 4MT value gear or fit 2 X04 motors and repair the value gear. Plan is go try the X04 route, if it fails use the HD route, I've noticed someone selling HD "neverwas" for £600, so nothing to lose. The X04 motor will be a lot lower, and value gear mounts need to be changed. It's so heavy it discovered the filled in inspection pit hence the bend in the middle

That's the one traction tyres are neoprene? Mine are still the original, would like to know a source so other tyred locomotives could be fitted with them, nearest I found is heat strink

These fiqures are roughly what MRC found out, it also used the pulley method, locomotives attached and reading made if stall or slip. I use both pulley and spring balance and working on adapting a wagon to measure drawbar effort. The article also noticed the pulling power of the then early 9F evening star, having done some research with the excellent Pat Hammond books vol 2&3 it seems Triang Hornby and Richard Lines put some considerable effort to build high quality locomotive using the X800 tender driven Ringfield motor. Fortunately I've got one and still it out performs all other locomotives, at the time 1972 layout wasn't big enough to really put it to the test. I've recorded it pulling 90 HD wagons and a drawbar effort of nearly 100 grams, although amp meter did measure over an amp. It's a shame they didn't use the motor in other tender driven locomotives though the 70' 80's etc, but cost was considerably even in 1972 it cost about £10, lot of money then when it was take home pay of a bricklayer

Something I've been fascinated with since I read and still have the "Model Railway Constructor" mag mid 70's which did an article on in the pulling power of British OO locomotives available past and present. Pulling power measured in grams, rolling resistance measured in the same, I've used two methods, weight on a pulley and spring balance. However noticed differences in rolling resistance and starting resistance. Starting resistance slightly higher, once the stock moves rolling resistance is measued and is less. Good way to demonstrate this is a long train of small wagons, if all the coupling are tensioned then often the locomotive won't move it, but if the locomotive reverses, then starts, it starts to move one at a time, it can eventually pull them all. The amount of extra wagons moved can be as much as a 10 with a 40 wagon train. I believe real trains use this method to start heavy trains Yes HD coaches take about 3 grams however because there is less stock therefore less coupling locomotives using the reverse back method have less chance pulling longer trains, so if its 10 coaches you might find only one extra so increase of 10%, while wagons its often 20-25%

Weight is an issue with all triang models, however the X04 is a quite powerful motor, add extra weight either a diecast body, wills white metal kit or just simply lead and haulage capacity can be doubled. The first Duchess was short to fit on the 4-6-2 chassis, then later a tender drive with a longer body, not many were made compared to others so quite rare yet don't attract high prices, the modern version a new body & chassis came out about 2002. Myself not a great fan of the tender drive some are ok but most squeak dispite constant oil, suffer poor haulage power, only exceptions is the early 9F version (1971) got one once to haul 90 Hornby dublo wagons that's quite a load. The other is an early Thomas the tank "Gordon" again why when its the same motor is a puzzle, yet this can easily pull 7-8 HD coaches, compared to most tender driven when your lucky to pull 3

Myself and it's my opinion I tend to avoid all modern post 2002 Hornby models due to poor performance and quality issues. I like my trains to work and not sit in cabinets, I expect a fair share of failures, & maintenance to be done. However compared to older models like Hornby dublo, triang, Lima, Wrenn etc quite simply modern Hornby and some other manufacturers are not up to working standard. Up to a few years ago I would probably buy 1 or 2 new ones a year, I've now got at least half with broken value gears, mazac rot, failed motors, bent buffer beams, cracked wheels. Hence spend my time putting decent looking bodies on 70 year old chassis which are still working

I built one as a teen, box version, found the odd trailer in toy fairs junk boxes to add to small collection, did find a bag one and built it a few years ago, somewhere mentioned it on this site. Read the instructions this time found doors actually open and shut.

Tenders for Duchess, Cities, etc both Hornby Dublo and triang, Triang Hornby, Hornby etc seem to be a topic of there own. I've seen plastic HD Wrenn ones on Hornby and vice-Visa, rivet plain etc. Certainly about 25-30 years ago loads of plain plastic bodies available for next to nothing at swap meets, as got some myself to fit on old 3Rail HD ones to replace the tin ones. As for Duchess here is the GBL tender with replaced metal wheels , such an easy conversion, so was the peco coupling fixed nicely at the back Even the tender pin fits the drawbar Also spotted this, iam not really up to knowledge on newer Hornby it's a tender drive with weathered blue tender body. As for Amercom dicast does anyone know if they are hollow inside ?. There is a gift shop shut at mo (Welsh non essential) selling them locally, and what metal is it ?

Buyer beware, that's why I like to see and feel for stuff before I buy it, anything 60 years old will show some wear and tear, deteriorate depends on exposure to sunlight, ozone, damp, oil, etc. One test and traders don't like you doing it is to flick with finger the ends to see if the rail comes apart from the chairs. Been brittle the chairs break more easier, another example cutting the ends off the sleeper to fit into peco points with pliers, use eye protection the bits fly off with speed. Old peco track, the plastic softer you have to twist with the pliers. Otherwise it's good track looks a lot better, fits well with peco 100, although as mentioned it is very slightly higher

I still use Hornby Dublo track on parts of the layout, the sleeper spacing is better, however the plastic goes brittle, best drill extra holes for pins. The metal points are almost indestructible the electric, all live frog ones, very reliable idea for hidden points tunnels etc. Most are 60 plus years old and some been on a layout for at least that amount. Might look unsightly but they work, and don't give trouble

Always found Superquick to look more realistic for a pre 70's layout, ie grubby, grim, dank. Look at any film from the 50's 60's etc and the street scenes were grim. Can just remember such scenes before clean air act, end of steam, and great clean up in the 1980's

Chop bit off Dublo body, stick it on a 2-6-2T, just doing that, real "Triang-Hornby-Dublo," even got smoke. Just happen to have a scrap 2-6-4T body someone chopped back quarter off. It fits, it works, need to rebuild the back coal bunker and clean it up a bit. Sandblast, repaint etc. Prehaps replace the cylinders and use dublo valve gear. It's a class 3/4 2-6-2T THD and it can now pull 6 HD coaches

Having sorted out quite a few "estates" HMRC class model trains as "toys" so apparently no inheritance tax to pay. Many charities claim they are not allowed to sell model trains left to them as again classed as "toys" and for Health and safety can't resell. Apparently some trading standards councils also class model trains as "toys" and its against the law for traders to sell them. Certainly if you purchased 2nd hand and it didn't work you have no rights. Finally my council regards them as un recycling waste, stock with no motors un recycled plastic waste, those with motors un recycled electrical waste, so you could say they are all " rubbish", having watched this Ebay thread there is a lot of that about. Finally as a trader you need a waste disposal licence or some waste carrier licence to move them about.

Found this conversion quite easy, the body was stripped of the chassis just undoing the screws, the rear lug cut back as to rest on the top of the chassis. The front sits tight over the cylinders. I haven't fitted any securing screws, I don't unless the bodies fall off in operation, makes servicing easier. The tender wheels just undo the screws and replace with some metal ones. It seemed to us that the whole lot was designed to fit on a proper chassis, apart from coupling which haven't fitted yet, but it's been tested for hauling with old tenders. Actually found the old body fitted on plastic chassis just need a decent bogie, cylinders etc, handy for a cabinet on wall

Did it a few weeks ago and posted a thread about it, can't link it but I've just read it again on page 2. It's a nice conversion fits well with a Duchess chassis, slight loss of weight but still capable of 8 HD coaches