brossard

I do like this model and you have done a sterling job.  Always useful for modellers to post "how to" pics to help others.

John

I like that you are trying to construct buildings based on real structures.  I've done one or two buildings like that.  My current layout, in 0 gauge, uses kits throughout though - from Scalescenes and Lcut.

My layout has become a traveller, and I am constantly battling the calendar to get priorities done before each show.

The show is less than a month away and I think a big priority must be to ensure that the trains run.

John

Very innovative wheel design.  I tried EM some while ago but I absolutely have no faith in non self quartering wheels such as Gibson or Ultrascale.  I did try Markits, which I do trust but couldn't get things to work.  Happily I discovered 0 gauge and everything is now right with the world.

You are doing a great job with this kit development.  Watching with interest.

John

Lovely looking layout Barry.  You don't see much on layout lighting.  I'm bad at this as well, I've had my layout at 3 shows and still rely on ambient light.  Happily the show venues were well lit.  Mind you, my layout is quite long (16' play area), so requires some thought. 

Yes, let's see your lighting rig.

John

Wonderful model, that brake gear looks terribly complex.  I also like to model the brake gear and other details of the nether regions of wagons and coaches.  It does take quite a lot of research but is hugely satisfying when done.  For myself, I am very grateful to RMweb members who provided me with much valued information.

John

That is very impressive indeed.  Just goes to show what can be done with an average kit when you put your mind to it.  It seems to me to be worthy of a place of honour on any layout.

John

From all the threads I've looked at, it seems that you have got all the greatest hits of "how not to build a layout".  I have to wonder whether you have plumbed the useful articles found in the mainstream Model Railway mags.  BRM, Model Rail and Hornby Mag frequently have pieces on layout building.

Fortunately, I think you have started in the right way by building something small and are now learning lessons.  You probably want to assess whether the layout you have suits you or whether you might want to try again with something new.

John

No need to use paint.  Get a pack of coloured felt markers, these work well.  The edges are easier to colour before assembly though.

John

To spring my wagons, I have used both Bill Bedfords system (from Eileen's) and Slater's system.  Bill's uses spring wire and Slater's uses coil springs.

I haven't sprung all of mine.  My layout is short and speeds are not high.

John

Rice is a remarkable chap.  I probably read most of his stuff and he has been a big influence in my modelling.

Your buffer stop brickwork is quite good and you have captured the mortar.  However, Rice's method includes putting on a brick base coat and then, rummaging through the boxes of paint to find as many shades of brown and even grey as you can.  With these in hand, pick out individual bricks with various browns and greys.  Oldie timey brick was not uniform as it may be today.  After the bricks are picked out, apply the mortar effect.

I have done this a time or two on several buildings and it came out OK.  It is time consuming though.

I have had more success with making buildings from Scalescenes kits both in 4mm and 7mm.  To me the brickwork in these kits is very near perfect and it is all done for you.  The only drawback (not for me I have to say) is lack of texture since the brick is printed.  I can live with this.

John

I like that you have gone the extra mile in detailing these, very nice.

John

Yes Evergreen is pretty pricey but extremely useful IMO.  I have a large collection of the stuff, really invaluable.

You could of course make a brass chassis but it would be hard work.  It occurs to me that you could try a Comet chassis pack and modify it.  I have scratchbuilt chassis (eg Hornby Palethropes Sausage van) but in plastic card, which is much easier to work. 

John

It makes me happy to see that you are copying my upgrade methods.  Looking great.

John

Ah, I do like to see this kind of attention to detail.  Slaters wagons are notorious for having no interior detail.  I did build a Slaters MR D299 and lined the interior with scribed plastic card.  Interior struts were also added.  Makes a big difference.  Great stuff.

John

I'm a great fan of Lcut and have done a number of models.  However, I don't like the bricks which flake off and I can't see how the mortar lines can be done.  My dodge is to face the parts in Scalescenes brick paper.

Here is my version of your box:

I switched the windows to something more like LNER.  Roof is done to Scalescenes design, overlapping slates.  There is an interior, levers and instruments are Severn Models.  There's a ModelU signalman.

John

A bit late I know, but I was scratching my head over how to do the point rodding on my layout.  This article is a god send, thanks so much.

I have the Ambis cranks and etched stools but Hobby Holidays has very little of the Ambis product line so that's disappointing.

John

It looks like you are doing some amazing modelling.  I've had PB rail before and pondered what to do with it.  My answer was to do nothing.  It looks awful to me.  The old saying about a pen'orth of tar comes to mind.  If it were me I'd get some NS rail.

John

Nice kit, I built one in BR grey.  I didn't get on with the plastic step board hangers and made some from scrap brass.

John

That is looking good.  Always satisfying to scratch build something.  There is probably bolt detail on the solebar I'm thinking.  I would recommend Archer rivet/bolt head transfers.

John

Thanks Barry, he replied to say he would have a look over the weekend.  Again, I forwarded your comments.

John

I daresay you are right but after handing the coaches over, I had nothing further to do with the loco and train.  I resigned from the club for about 3 years and then rejoined about a year ago.

I forwarded your advice to the T9 owner.

John

Hi Barry, my friend bought a Hornby T9 in the pre group LSWR livery and then decided he wanted coaches to go with it.  He bought the kits and then asked for volunteers.  Like an idiot, I put my hand up.  The build was straightforward enough as I'm sure you are finding but the livery was a challenge.

I drew the lining with Powerpoint using a scan of the sides as a guide.  I had to use clear transfer film because white backed would require matching the colour.

It all adds to the experience base but I wouldn't do it again.

To top it all off, I am told that the T9 isn't man enough to pull them, despite traction tyres. 

John

Well this is nice to see.  I built a 5 coach rake of LSWR non corridor stock several years a go for a friend.  I did them in, IIRC, 1912 chocolate and salmon livery.  A challenging project but they got done...eventually:

I mixed the salmon myself and made the lining transfers - aaarghhh!

Just one example.  All I can say is "I'm glad to see the back of them."

BTW, using CA to attach fiddly details is not a crime in my book.

John

Can I make one comment?  I suggest you apply your scraper and fiberglass pen to some of those solder joints.  The joins around the tanks and boiler bands look kind of rough to my eye.  I spend a lot of time on my kits trying to get as much of the excess solder off as I can.  Otherwise, you are to be applauded for the loco so far.  I can't recall a brass kit that I built that was perfect.  As you say, the nice thing about brass is that it is endlessly forgiving.

John

Yes, I belong to a club here, about a dozen guys.  It is more formal with a clubhouse and club layout.  Formal clubs bring administration, dues and rent.  A bit of a pain.  There are some videos in the Facebook link.

John