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James Hilton

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  1. James Hilton

    A potted history...

    By James Hilton,

    The end of the line?
     

     
    The Manchester Ship Canal needs no introduction – and to those interested in industrial railways neither does it’s significant sprawling web of rails – not only dock side but real lines linking places and businesses to both the canal and the wider rail network.
     
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manchester_Ship_Canal
     
    By the early 1980s the system and the canal were in serious decline, and the small fleet of diesel hydraulic Sentinels and diesel mechanical Hudswell Clark's were mainly involved with oil and containerised traffic, with hubs reduced to Ellesmere Port (serving the oil refineries at Stanlow and Eastham) and Mode Wheel (serving Lancashire Tar Distillers and Trafford Park). When the Barton Railway Swingbridge no.2 was shut in 1981 it was inevitable that Mode Wheel would shut (1988) and new facilities were established at Barton Road (next to Kelloggs) and at Lancashire Tar Distellers near Weaste junction.
     
    In 1991 Peel Holdings acquired a declining, derelict and run down canal and railway system and looked to re-vitalise the Trafford Park area and re-develop the docks. The railway eeked out an existence and saw in it's centenary during 1994, but with closure of the Lancashire Tar Distillers facility railway operation north of the canal ceased in the same year. Operations at Ellesmere Port lasted a few more years but in 1996 the lines were mothballed with a decline in rail traffic to the refineries and the engines sold on to new homes. So, without fuss or ceremony ended 102 years of the Manchester Ship Canal Railway.
     
    Timeline of decline...

    1967 - Line to Eastham laid at Ellesmere Port
    1972 - Salford dock railways closed
    1978 - Through route from Weaste to Cadishead shut
    1981 - Last locomotive uses Barton Railway swing bridge No.2 - system severed
    1981 - Partington Coaling Basin closed
    1982 - Barton Dock Road shed opened (next to Kelloggs) for Trafford Park
    1988 – Mode Wheel closes
    1991 – Peel Holdings
    1994 - Centenary of Canal and Railway
    1994 – Operation North of the Canal ceases with Lanc Tar Distillers closing
    1996 – Ellesmere Port operation ceases

     
    Photos of the prototype...
    http://j-eyres.fotopic.net/c1374075_1.html
    http://murrayliston.fotopic.net/c1027937.html
    http://industrialrailwaysofthenorth.fotopic.net/c1711248.html
    http://www.shipsofthemersey.photos.me.uk/c1777293.html
    http://glazebrookeast.fotopic.net/c1547689.html
    http://www.geoffspages.co.uk/raildiary/nwind/index.htm
    http://picasaweb.google.com/montyburns56/TraffordParkEstatesRailway?fgl=true&pli=1#
     
    Photos taken at Ellesemere Port, February 2010...
    Rail operations at Ellesmere Port have re-started with imported coal being brought in, not from the original Cawoods dock facility, but at a wharf at the old Bowaters plant. A Freightliner 66 was observed hauling a loaded train away from the facility, a shadow of the former MSC Railway - but not forgotten.



     
    Next up is the concept... comments, questions, help, advice, memories - please post them all up for me - they'll all help
  2. James Hilton
    Inspiration comes in lots of forms, who would think the humble shed - the engine that marked the beginning of the end of heritage traction in regular revenue earning service with EWS - would fall into this category!

    Add to that huge potential in the lovely Bachmann model it seemed a no brainer for Paxton Road. Then it happened - Martin (Pugsley) showed photos of his Class 59 project and the decision was made... one day I'd do a 66! Tony's beautiful SD50 build showed a fabulous range of scratchbuilding techniques that both inspired and encouraged me to progress this project. My plan? To scratchbuild, kit bash and fabricate myself a super detailed Class 66 - complete underframe pipework, hosing, valves and chains to start with... and then a detailing and weathering job to show off the finished product!
     
    So a second hand 66 was picked up (it's actually 66022 - with sound decoded removed - not that that will matter as it will be renumbered) a few months ago and since then I've been aquiring the necessary detailing parts to make a start... This week the final pieces were purchased from the US and from Eileen's Emporium - so this blog post marks the start of the project and outlines the history of the class, the model and proposed parts list.

    History of the Class 66
    (Taken from Wikipedia)
     
    When Ed Burkhart bought Transrail, Mainline and Loadhaul (and later Railfreight Distribution and Rail Express Systems) to create English, Welsh and Scottish Railway (EWS) in 1996 he inherited many locomotives at the end of their useful life or of doubtful reliability. EWS approached General Motors Electro-Motive Division (EMD) who offered a derivative of the Class 59 with a more modern engine and traction package, designated JT42CWR. Additionally, the design incorporated General Motors' version of a steering bogie - designed to reduce track wear and increase adhesion on curves.
     
    In the end 250 were ordered by EWS (now DB Schenker) and orders followed from Freightliner, DRS, GBRf and Fastline. All build at the EMD factory in London, Ontario, Canada. Their reliability and performance have probably been a key factor in the continued existence of rail freight in the UK.

    Modelling Resources
    Brian Daniels: Class 66 Modelling Details
     
    Proposed parts list

    Bachmann Class 66/0 EWS Cannon and Company Dash 2 SD Chain Tensioner Cannon and Company EMD Fuel Tank Details Brass rod 0.35 / 0.45 / 0.7 / 0.9mm Brass section 1.5 x 0.5mm Copper soft wire 28swg Plasticard (various thicknesses) Hornby Class 31 buffer beam detailing pack
    First steps
    So what's next?
    Once all the parts arrive I'll strip down the Bachmann model into it's component parts carefully storing screws, fastenings and removable detail. I'll then start on the chassis, stripping down to just the chassis rails...
     
    Questions, comments, encouragement or extra detailing ideas, suggestions and photographs welcome! I thought I'd share progress on here as I go along so keep your eyes peeled in the coming months!
  3. James Hilton
    I've always had a thing about Class 08s and 09s - and when younger rememeber seeing the Bachmann model appear as a pre-production sample in every years catalog and the model never make it to my local shop. [
     
    When I returned to the hobby two years ago the Bachmann and Hornby models were available, with pro's and con's to both. I personally prefer the shape of the Bachmann model and they run very well on Paxton Road. I recently chose to model 09007 based on the Bachmann model of 09006. This required more extensive modification than previously and I also undertook a heavy fading and weathering job.
     
    This article has appeared in Model Rail (December 2009, Issue 138) and is reproduced here with kind permission of Model Rail Magazine.
     
    Faded Glory...
    Modifying a Bachmann model to represent work worn 09007.
    Article courtesy Model Rail Magazine - Issue 138 Page 92 - Words and photos by James Hilton
     

     
    When Bachmann released it's 08/09 model back in 2000 it took the 00 RTR market by storm and was released in a myriad of liveries over the next few years. Good tooling design allowed the variations in locker, access and cab door arrangements to be modelled as applicable to the prototype and the good running characteristics and well captured character has ensured it's continued place in the catalog.
    The Hornby challenger arrived a few years later. The higher level of intricate detail really sets the model apart from the Bachmann version but has been made available in less livery variations.
     
    I personally feel the Bachmann model captures the character of the prototype more successfully - and for those with a stud of these I present a case for detailing and upgrading the basic Bachmann offering to better reflect individual prototypes and close the detail gap with it's Hornby competitor.
     
    This article describes the modification of Bachmann 09006 into 09007. Although some of the steps are unique to representing a Class 09, some of the other tips and detailing are applicable to a standard 08, and the weathering tips can apply to any model, Bachmann or Hornby.
    PROTOTYPE HISTORY
    The twenty six original Class 09 were built between 1959 and 1962. Based upon the successful 08 (itself a development of prototypes dating back to the LMS) and specifically aimed at the Southern region they were geared for short trip work with a higher maximum speed of 27mph (versus 15mph of the 08) with the expense of a reduction in tractive effort. They were also equipped with high level air pipework for shunting Southern multiple unit stock. The original build are now classified 09/0 as during the 1992 a number of Class 08s were rebuilt with higher gearing for use on local trip freights across the UK ??“ categorized 09/1 and 09/2.
     
    After privatisation the class found themselves re-distributed around the UK as they're higher top speed meant they were useful shunters with the advantage of running trip workings between yard and customer premises. A testament to their usefulness, until late 2008 no Class 09 had been scrapped (however a number have been preserved).
     
    MODELLING FROM A PHOTO
    I always find my modelling much easier when basing my efforts on photographic evidence. These days the internet is a very useful tool and a few hours trawling the photo sharing sites often yield more than enough detail shots. My favourite is community.fotopic.net. You just type in the loco number, select 'photos' (rather than galleries) and you usually have at least one page of photos to select from.
     
    In this case I chose to model 09007 in circa 1999/2000 condition. At the time the loco sported a very faded Mainline livery, but had not been fitted with the Oleo buffers it received sometime during 2003. I managed to collect a good selection of front, rear and side shots to enable specific details to be captured and to guide the fading and weathering process.
     
    A selection of scrap plasticard off-cuts, various wire grades (some from Ratio kits, some old guitar string) plus some old plastic sprue - along with a set of Hornby bufferbeam pipework from a Class 31, were the only parts required for this conversion. I used some Fox transfers (the small black numbers on the back buffer beam, silver numbers on the sides and the post 1998 warning flashes) and Humbrol paints and varnish to complete the basic transformation. This was weathered using a mixture of a faded varnish coat, dry brushed colour variation, washes using Humbrol paints and some Mig weathering powders - all detailed in the Step by Step guide.
     
    SUMMARY
    The project was a good little evening project that stretched over two months. I am happy with the finished model and it fits perfectly with my ficticious MoD depot set north of Winchester on a spur of the old Didcot Newbury and Southampton railway.
    The modifications are within the capability of the average modeller and really transform the already good Bachmann model into an excellent representation of this diminutive, mundane but essential shunter.
     
    Next up - a two tone Mainline grey liveried Class 58, and getting around to finishing my layout!
     
    STEP BY STEP
    1) Preparation
    The first thing to consider is the basics, and checking body details against prototype photos. Identify the changes required, remove unwanted details (marker lights, lamp irons etc) and make a list of things that need to be added or modified.
     
    2) Rear high-level pipework
    The arrangement of hi-level pipework looks complicated but is formed from ____ thou wire formed to shape by eye and small pliers ??“ fixed with superglue. The bracket is L profile plasticard, the pipes themselves more wire, and the lever from the Hornby Class 31 bufferbeam pipework detailing kit. In addition the lamp irons have been repositioned and an extra one added.

     
    3) Front high-level pipework
    The front air pipework looks slightly more complicated but is formed in the same way ??“ and is self supporting. Extra lamp irons were added to the sides of the radiator grill.

     
     
    4) Front Steps
    This step (excuse the pun) transforms the Bachmann model. I believe the Bachmann front steps are about 2mm to narrow. They are simply removed by popping a knife edge behind them and easig them out. I remove the handrails completely. The steps are then sliced out and replacements added in plasticard, secured with superglue, before being re-attached using superglue.
     
    5) Rear pipework
    The extra underframe pipework on the Hornby model is exquisite. I have gone for merely a representation, which tricks the eye into seeing the full detail. Formed from some .017 gauge guitar strings and 0.5mm wire following photographs. Best fitted before the cab steps, and you can gently remove the sand boxes to aid fitting. The orange pipework is attached directly to he coupler mounting. A representation of the small air cylinders behind the cab steps is made from sprue off cuts. The antenna was added to the cab roof to represent the cab-shore radio telephone fitted for mainline running, the part coming from an A1 models etch.
     
    6) Bufferbeam detail
    I have used the pipework from a Hornby Class 31, but have successfully used Class 50 air pipework. Alternatively you could use your preferred supplier for the air and vacuum brake pipework. I also added a pipe joining the two air tanks together, formed from an old guitar string.
     
    7) Re-numbering and paint touchup
    The original numbers were removed carefully with brake fluid and a sharp scalpel. These were replaced with Fox transfers from a pack designed for a Class 37. Any silver numerals in the standard tops font could be used. The small number on the buffer beam is from the Fox pack for Railfreight/Civil Link front numbers. The warning flashes were appied directly over the originals, and extra ones added where necessary. All transfers were set using Micro-Set solution, and Micro-Sol was used on the numerals to allow them to sit more closely over the raised detail.
     
    8) Touch-up
    The detailing parts were touched up using Humbrol paints using photos as a colour guide. In addition the body colour was touched up where details had been removed. I took the opportunity to dry brush on some faded Mainline blue at this stage to give a variation in the fading effect.
     
    9) Chassis weathering
    The chassis was weathered using the techniques described in Martyn Welch??™s excellent book ???The Art of Weathering??™. Matt black, gunmetal, matt chocolate and matt tan were applied (along with some thinners) to the outside frame using photos as a guide. Whilst this was still wet some ???black smoke??™ Mig weathering powder was stippled into the paint with an old brush. The coupling rods were drybrushed and given a dirty wash (matt black and matt chocolate) and the pipework and tanks given some weathering using matt chocolate.
     
    10) First pass fade and weather
    I wanted to give a good variation in colour, not just fade the whole model. To that end I applied a little Humbrol Matt 25 to the body using photographs as a guide - to give a greater variation in tone.
    I made up a faded varnish (approximately 50% thinners, 50% matt varnish with a touch of matt white). I used Maskol to mask the window panes and applied the varnish with an airbrush. In this case I used purely white to tone the varnish, but it is possible to add a sandy colour or a green depending on the effect you wish to obtain. A good explanation can be found here:
    http://eastmoor.blogspot.com/2009/07/fading-fast.html
     
    11) Body weathering
    Once the varnish has thoroughly dried I added the exhaust staining using Mig weathering powder, and the oil, fluid and rust staining on the body and around the hinges using Humbrol 98 matt chocolate and 33 matt black were applied by brush with some thinners. A cotton bud is useful at this stage to soften the edges as the thinners soaks into the varnish. It is most important to use a prototype photo to base your model on. A closely observed but badly executed weathering finish is much more realistic then a perfectly applied work of fiction.
     
    12) Finishing touches
    You should now have a faded, stained, work worn model. At this point review to check no details have dropped off - and if necessary replace these now. Finishing touches then involve adding a greasy mix to the buffer faces (Humbrol 98, 33 and 53 - then stippled with Mig black smoke powder whilst wet) and some chipped paint on the grab rails. Check the wheel treads are clean and get the shunting and trip work started on your layout!

     
    LINKS
    http://community.fotopic.net
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Rail_Class_09
    http://eastmoor.blogspot.com/2009/07/fading-fast.html
    http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=207593#207593
    MATERIALS
    0.5mm nickel silver wire (spare from a Ratio kit)
    0.017 gauge steel wire (assortment from used guitar strings)
    Stainless steel off cuts (from S-kits brake disc inserts)
    Plasticard (various thicknesses and profiles)
  4. James Hilton
    I've had two of the Bachmann PNA wagons (a 5 and a 7 rib) for nearly 18 months and they've never before appeared on my workbench!
     
    These are good quality, value for money models of a nice mundane prototype. Perfect for Paxton Road - which is endeavouring to permeate averageness and mundane in it's environs, scenery and rolling stock (if not in quality of finish and modelling!). The Bachmann model uses their TTA underframe, as did a batch of the prototype wagons. Unfortunately it does not accurately portray the brunninghaus spring arrangement - and when I discovered this the models took a back seat on my project list! The prototype are all currently stored, but were in regular use during the timeframe of Paxton Road, usually in block trains - and often for material and spoil removal.
     
    I needed a work stained and weathered wagon to be left in one of the sidings on Paxton Road, so a PNA was hastily pulled out and weathered, along with the interior being rusted up and some ballast remains added to the interior. Despite this the underframe still bugged me.

     
    I bought a copy of Nigel Burkin's excellent book, 'Making the best of ready to run models: Modern Wagons in 4mm Scale', which covers the type in some detail. I realised the springs were available from S-kits as an aftermarket white metal casting and splashed out on enough sets for my fleet of 4 PNAs. The chassis modification is actually really simple.
     
    Chassis Modification - Step by Step
    1. Carefully remove the brake lever from each side, and store safely out of the way.
    2. Using a sharp blade slice through the existing spring moulding where it meets the hanger, leaving the hanger in place.
    3. Slice out the spring moulding a section at a time, being careful to avoid nicking the body of the wagon (or your fingers).
    4. Remove the spring hangers and axle boxes from the S-kits mouldings.
    5. Superglue the new springs into position. Note there is a small gap between the spring and the hanger. This is un-avoidable but is not noticeable at normal viewing distances.
    6. Re-attach the brake levers with superglue.
     

     
     

     
    This should leave you with a model that reflects the correct chassis for the prototype, and ready for weathering.
    On one of my models I also replaced the moulded lamp brackets with thin stainless steel (etch off-cuts) but didn't think this added enough visually to carry over to the other wagons.
     
    Weathering starts with the chassis, then interior, then body sides and then an overall wash if required.
     
    Chassis Weathering - Step by Step
    1. Starting with a medium brush, apply a quick wash of thinners to the chassis frame - avoiding the axle blocks.
    2. Use Humbrol 98 (matt chocolate) and apply liberally, occassionally cleaning your brush and adding a little thinners. This should give a dirty but translucent effect so you can still make out the works plate.
    3. Use Humbrol 98 neat on the new spring assemblys and axle blocks. Apply neat to the buffer beams, and buffers.
    4. Use Humbrol 98 with some thinners on the brake rigging, so that the white remains visible, but dirty.
    5. Use Humbrol 98 neat on the chassis brake rigging.
    6. Use Humbrol 98 neat and paint the front face, back face and axle of both wheelsets. Avoid getting paint on the wheel tread, and if you do carefully remove with another brush moistened in thinners.
    7. When dry you can apply a very delicate touch of Mig weathering powders. I use Europe Dust on the brake shoes to represent brake dust, and then use Black Smoke on some of the chassis frame to add some shadow.
    8. Apply some silver to the buffer shanks.
    9. Mix some Humbrol 53 (Gunmetal) with Humbrol 98 about 25/75%. Paint the buffer heads. Whilst these are still wet stipple on Black Smoke weathering powder.
     

     
    At this stage your model should have started to look more realistic and certainly less toy like - we're well beyond the point of no-return yet with such a cheap model to start with this should not be of concern, and hopefully you're confidence has grown.
    We're now ready to tackle the interior of the wagon. If you study prototype shots you'll see that the interior quickly gets rusty, dusty and in generally unkempt condition. The sides are often quite rusty and scuffed, with some 'tide' marks where a load has been present. The base often appears lighter as it's more dusty with some remnants of it's previous load - these wagons were loaded and unloaded by mechanical grab. Some useful photos were posted by Mark and Brian on my original request for help thread here on the old forum.

     
    Interior Weathering - Step by Step
    1. The base of the interior is a good enough base for weathering but the inside sides and ends need painting. I use Humbrol 98 (Matt Chocolate) and some Humbrol 60 (Matt Red), and a spot of Humbrol 33 (Matt Black) to mix up a rusty dirty colour. This is then applied to the insides adjusting the tone slightly by varying the proportions of the mix as you go.
    2. The floor will also need weathering. Study photographs and determine the type of ballast or spoil previously carried as this dry dusty load will have deposited a film on top of the rust.
    I decided on a light grey (Humbrol 64) and a little orange (Humbrol 82), mixed with a small amount of thinners and varied across the floor.
    3. The remnants of it's last load are produced by applying some neat PVA glue in the corners, and in roughly the position where a mechanical grab would miss, and then applying ballast of your choice. I chose granite.
    Now the chassis and interior are suitably distressed the final piece in the jigsaw is tacking the body. If you study photographs of the prototype (either in Nigel's book - or online on Gareth Bayer or Martyn Read's sites) you'll find that they appear to be generally dirty, but the info panels have been cleaned up - and also that the dirt is quite uniform, something that a beginner and an airbrush might struggle to achieve. I use a really simple basic technique that is surprisingly effective. This works on this type of wagon because the base colour is quite similar to the weathered colour, and would not give such a good effect on a lighter or brighter wagon.
    Bodywork weathering - Step by Step
    1. This really is a two step process. Apply some thinners to one or two body panels at a time. Add a little Humbrol 98 (Matt Chocolate) to the brush and 'mix' on the panel until uniform. Don't worry if this appears slightly uneven and transparent. I find this adds to the effect. Use Humbrol 98 neat along the top sides.
    2. Whilst this is still damp use a dry clean cotton bud and clean up the data panel and the blue works stencil, and the min curve and loose shunting signs.

    I know this photo shows the model with the incorrect springs - but as is life my PNAs are a work in progress and I've not finished the body on the wagons that have a finished chassis!
    You should now have a PNA that definitely looks the part, and with a little work a short rake could be assembled, happy to be towed behind your EWS 66 (or similar) or just stashed in a siding full of debris awaiting collection after a weekend occupation and track renewal work elsewhere.
     
     
     
     
  5. James Hilton

    Rebirth in 009...

    By James Hilton,

    I've finally 'taken the plunge' in 009 after many years in 4mm (both OO and a toe dipping in P4) and more recently a G scale (Austrian narrow gauge) project in the garden. The draw of British narrow gauge, in particular the L&B, the L&M and the W&L - big(ish) locos and English (or Welsh!) countryside, rolling hills, trees and not a bit of slate in sight... I have to admit I've been slowly drawn back into smaller scale modelling and have been browsing this site for many months...
     
    Who knows what my layout project will end up becoming - at the moment I have no real firm plans - just 1930s - 1970s, a Great Western influence and a freelance location - but with real engines, a mix of freight and passenger and also some standard gauge transporter wagons!
     
    So where to start - I've not built anything in brass for over 12 months and money is tight this side of Christmas so a Backwoods kit seemed perhaps a little ambitious. I found the Worsley Works scratch aid kit for the ex-admiralty inspection car, nick-named 'The Wasp', designed to fit on the Kato tram chassis - this seemed a perfect place to start so I ordered the kit from Allen and sourced a chassis via E-bay.
     
    It arrived before Christmas and I was initially suprised how little there was to the kit, but it is ONLY £15, and it is a tiny prototype. I've taken the Worsley parts as far as they go and the rest is to be scratchbuilt.
     
    For anyone who's not worked in brass before I thought it might be useful to list my tools - to show you don't need a miniature engineers's workshop to work with solder and brass...
    1 x Antex 25W soldering iron
    Carr's liquid flux
    Carr's low melt (145degC) solder
    Two old needle files (flat and triangular)
    1 x Mini-drill (12v - powered from my old H&M clipper for variable speed)
    A selection of small drills (0.3, 0.45, 0.7 and 0.9mm if I recall correctly)
    1 x Swiss Army Knife with small scissors
    1 x 'small' Hold and Fold tool (an extravagance but it does produce lovely straight sharp folds!)

    So upon opening the packet this is what you get...

     
    I start with using the Swiss Army Knife scissors to carefully cut the required parts from the fret - taking care not to bend anything. Once removed you can snip right up to the piece to minimise the filing required, then use a needle file and gently rub this along the edge of the fret to remove any trace of the tab.

     
    The tricky start to this 'kit' is to get the ends soldered into the body - there is a tiny half etched rebate but it's still very difficult to get it all aligned, held, and hot enough for the solder to flow. I always gently burnish the surface first, then use some flux before tinning both surfaces with a little low melt solder. Then 'assemble' the parts on a piece of cardboard or wood, apply some more flux and then the soldering iron. This should start to bubble the flux quickly and you'll see the solder liquify and hopefully join the surfaces. On other kits I've done this has been much easier and there was a little swearing after a failed attempt and lightly scorched skin!! However once together the soldered join is very strong and allows you to gently file the edge, removing any sign of the join and put on a slight rounding to the corner - that would be difficult with superglue.
     
    The other end is then a little easier. Once they're in I applied a 'fillet' of solder along the roof folds to stiffen it all up.
     
    On to the 'chassis' - very simple with a slot and tab construction. Again tinned and joined with plenty of flux. The end tabs need filing down afterwards so that the body can be mounted neatly.

     
    More swearing when trying to get the body mounting plates in neatly, but again worth doing in solder for the strength.

     
    The next job was adding the cab doors - for this I chose to use superglue, very sparingly, as I was worried with solder I'd end up with a gently curved edge giving the impression the doors were permanently welded to the body rather than a sharp crisp edge.

     
    The Kato tram chassis arrived. For £15 this is an excellent value drive unit, compact, smooth running and easily modified!

     
    First up, the chassis requires a little modification to fit - namely removing about 4mm from each end. I unclipped the couplers and then used an X-acto Razor saw to cut through the moulding - quick, easy and harmless to performance.

     
    The etched body then needs some adjustment - I've filed diagonals on all the corners, and extended the size of one of the cutouts. These were done by trial and error, both on the chassis and the body, until a good fit was achieved. In addition, the chassis has a couple of clips moulded either side of the motor -I filed these down a bit, as brass isn't too flexible. They still locate the chassis snugly, but makes pushing it in a lot easier!
     
    I've then moved back to work on the body. I used 0.45mm diameter brass wire for the handrails - superglued in position. I also applied a fuel filler panel, using a scrap from a Shawplan 4mm Class 37 diesel end grill etching. The same scrap also supplied part of a grill to use to replace the massively overscale 'radiator' grill on the original kit.

     
    The next thing is the sand boxes, these were built up from 10thou plasticard, 2 sides, front and top. I used a scrap sprue sliced up for the cover on the top and a sliver of plasticard as a handle on top of that. These were mounted using superglue to the chassis.

     
    The foot steps are small staples I've had in my scrap box for a long time. The perfect size without modifying, superglued on although if I'd have thought I'd have soldered them on before the sandboxes.

     
    The battery box is a small piece of 60thou plasticard from my off cuts box. Next to it are two small plugs/covers which came out of the scrap box. I think they were originally MU sockets from an American HO detailing kit.

     
    The axle boxes are quite simple, so far, just strips of 10thou micro strip. I'll apply a couple of water slide rivets to them after a coat of primer on them (if I remember!).
     
    The roof is 60thou plasticard, scored down the middle and then shaped with files and sandpaper. It's fixed with Superglue and will need a little filing and shaping to blend with the body.

     
    The gaps in the end roof have been filled and smoothed, I've fitted the door handles, door hinge cover across the top of each side, extra underframe details (including sand pipes) and my favourite, the windscreen wipers. All is scratch-built from off cuts of plasticard, waste kit sprue or brass rod.


     
    It's a long time since I've modelled in the smaller scales and I've enjoyed working with plasticard, small knives and files and just making stuff from scratch has been good fun. So much so that I've ordered another kit... The Worsley Works IOM Schoema diesel!
  6. James Hilton
    After placing an order about a month ago a lovely little white box was waiting for me when I got home today.
     
    Yes at last my Judith Edge 230hp Sentinel kit has arrived. 4 weeks seems a long time, but not when you consider Charlie at DC Kits kindly ordered a P4 Black Beetle especially for me for this project.
     

     
    So after pulling out the etches, the Black Beetle and the instructions I was itching to start - but reigned in my enthusiasm. First things first I checked the contents (good job as one or two things missing - buffers and nuts) and the operation of the Black Beetle (it works!).
     

    The bogie really is tiny - 26mm axlebase. Seen here posed with a standard Conflat A wagon from Bachmann (something I've been letting my daughter play with on her Harry the Hauler trainset - great for putting cars on!).
     

    And here you can see what I'm hoping to put together! The Rolls Royce Sentinel. Good written instructions from Judith Edge - and a nice arrangement drawing and parts list.
    I was planning on reading everything before diving in but enthusiasm got the better of me and out came the snips, files, vice, soldering iron, 145deg solder and flux... and after 10 years I soldered my first kit! Cutting the parts out carefully, cleaning up the tabs lightly with a file, checking how bits fitted together and I was ready! The first thing to do is bend the sand box covers in to the frames - which I achieved with the flat face of a screw driver pressing against the edge of a vice (to small for the hold and fold). Then I was ready for solder... After an initial struggle with not having three hands I got myself sorted and wow what a difference having 145 degree solder makes. Admittedly if I started again things would be neater (and probably squarer) but the confidence I gained in soldering these 5 pieces of brass together has set me up for the rest of the kit.
     


    You might well laugh but I'm one proud man - my first etched brass kit (proper) and first soldering of a kit for 10 years. It's solid, square(ish) and looks great.
     
    So here we are - the slippery slope. Already my mind is wandering and dreams of fully sprung 0-6-0 outside framed Sentinels falling together easily on my workbench are flooding my mind. Reality is this will probably progress slowly! That's it though, progress has been made - and the days of out of the box RTR may be one step further behind me.
  7. James Hilton
    In today's lovely spring sunshine a fantastic excuse to nip down to Ellesmere Port presented itself...
     
    My 2 year old daughter needed a nap and wouldn't settle at her grandparents - so I offered to take her out for a drive! She was off within the first 5 minutes! Anyway I headed down to Ellesmere Port docks first, to the location of the old MSC Railway engine shed. From here I traced the line up to Eastham before heading back on myself to Stanlow. These shots won't set the world on fire but show a little more of what I'm going to try and capture in Meadow Lane - as well as providing a historic record of the last section of the MSC railway in existence which see's some use...
     
    It was sad to see at Stanlow a lot of the yard had been lifted and track panels stacked along the road - how much longer will Peel Holdings keep the line to Eastham in situ?
     
    First up a view of the dock entrance, and my car! The shed can be seen on the left - the tracks I'm parked on are severed either side of the road and were the access to the shed. I crept upto the gates for the second and third shots - but didn't venture further as there was no one around to ask permission.



     
    This old office will form a scenic break on the layout - so I took a few shots. I presume it was either a weighbridge, or traffic office of some description?



     
    The section of line from Ellesmere Port station to the old Bowaters plant is in regular use by Freightliner for imported coal. This view is towards Eastham.

     
    I followed the track up towards Eastham and paused opposite the Vauxhall car plant. First view towards Ellesmere Port, second towards Eastham. As you can see this section is still 100% intact although a little overgrown.


     
    At Eastham the track enters the old refinery (spur on the left) and also crosses, then follows the road further up to some oil storage tanks.


     
    Now back at Stanlow and the situation is a little more sadening with track still in situ on the bank - but the yard area largely derelict. First shot taken facing up the bank, and then some yard detail shots. Here there were a lot of road crossings as lines headed into the Stanlow complex - not much trace of these anymore.




     
    So there you go - a glimpse of a forgotten age - 14 years since trains ceased operating on these sections regularly - what Peel Holdings intends for the future remains to be seen. Expect some more modelling posts this week - in the meantime questions, comments or further information greatly appreciated!
  8. James Hilton
    It might not look like much but I feel I've reached a milestone this evening...
     
    At this rate it's a good thing I'm building just a single line terminus! Nevertheless the first car of my Pacer is at a point where it can be painted.
    Full side on view showing overall progress to date!

     
    Work has been quite extensive - perhaps not as far as some have gone, but I've chosen to work on the things that will make the largest visual difference.
    On the front ends I've replaced the handrails, added the roof aerial, replaced the fender, added a coupling (with pipework) and fabricated replacement steps.


     
    On the back I've added a replacement exhaust stack (that links down to the underside of the floor) and support brackets (fiddly).


     
    In addition, and as can be seen in the photos, I've re-wheeled her for P4, modified the wheelset framing (to represent the heavier duty spring bases) and worked a little on the interior, as well as adding full door handrails using .45 and .35mm wire.
     
    Next up is bringing the second car up to scratch before I put them through the paint booth to appear as 142036 in Northern livery... unless I'm distracted by the Mainline 58 or new sound class 37 over Christmas!
  9. James Hilton
    So about 6 months into my 009 modelling career and the first two models are finished...

     
    Both the diesel (a Schoema prototype, currently based on the Isle of Man Steam Railway) and the railbus (a Baguley Drewry prototype, initially an admiralty vehicle I believe, currently on the Welshpool and Llanfair) are built from etched brass Worsley Works 'scratch-aid' kits. What does 'scratch-aid' mean? Basically you get an etched brass kit with some detailing but you need to source a chassis, detailing parts and sometimes fabricate a roof. They are well designed and cleanly produced and with care, really build into very characterful prototypes.

     
    My 009 meanderings have very little clear direction at present, hence the odd choice of prototype - I just liked them! They both make use of the excellent value and compact Kato tram chassis for N-gauge, available for around £20 delivered - which makes these kits excellent value at less than £50 each when completed. I sourced the plasticard, turned brass components and sections from the usual suppliers (Alan Gibson and Eileen's Emporium).
     
    I shall not give a full-build here - if you're interested they feature heavily on my external blog and I've also described the build, in patches on here. However in recent weeks I have got around to finishing them both off with a subtle weathered finish.


     
    The weathering followed my old 4mm techniques, that I had not used for sometime. Both chassis was treated to a dirtying up using enamels (Humbrol 33, 53 and 98), black, gun-metal and chocolate. When this was dry I dry brushed some more gun-metal on the step edges, cab door step and handrails and applied some Mig weathering powder on the chassis to give some tonal variation and accentuate some of the shadows.
     
    The body on the diesel had some wash (diluted 33 and 98) dripped into the panel lines, and carefully cleaned up to show only in the panel lines, and on the radiator grilles.
     
    I then used an airbrush with three different weathering tones to blend the wash and dry brushing together. On the diesel I used a grey (created from a black and cream mix) to 'fade' the roof to give a sun bleaching and dusty appearance. I then used a straight brown (chocolate 98) on the chassis of both engines, and a light spray from the underside over the buffer beams. I also drifted a little of this over the roof of the railbus. I then used a black (33) with a smidge of chocolate (98) to add some exhaust deposits to the bonnet and roof of the diesel.
     
    Once dry I sprayed a little matt varnish (that has ended up slightly satin - initially I was annoyed, but it actually adds to the effect I think) and added the glazing, before taking them outside for a few snaps... (the diesel will receive custom etched nickel silver plates from Narrow Planet).
     

     
    So what next? Well I've got two kits on order - a large scale 1:22 kit of a Romanian Faur L45H diesel (for the garden line) and a 009 Le Meuse 2-6-0T etched kit using the Graham Farish N-gauge 08 chassis. I have also been scribbling ideas for a small 4mm layout with a running 009 section and a static P4 siding or too, but as I've not really got any prototypes in mind it's proving difficult to focus my attention on something long enough to get a decent plan... at the very least I need a photo plank!
     
    If people are interested in the Garden Railway (1:22) projects I can share them on here too - they just don't often get much comment so I usually only update my Garden Railway external blog. Let me know. I'll continue to share the 009 meanderings on occasion on RMweb, but keep your eyes glued to my 4mm blog if you're interested in more frequent ramblings.
  10. James Hilton
    I've been keeping a project under my hat since Members Day this year where I picked up a model of 09006 from the Bachmann trade stand for a bargain price...
     
    Over the following 8 weeks I transformed her into a model of 09007, complete with my trademark step modification and scratchbuilt hi-level brake pipes. I faded and weathered the bodywork and took step by step photos. After I approached Ben Jones at Model Rail, I wrote it all up for an article and today, I finally saw the fruit of my labour this morning stood in WHSmiths!! 4 pages in the December issue, I ended up buying 4 copies so I can distribute them around my family...
     
    The title page of my article - proud - hell yeah!

     
    So that's fame - here's the next step... You've probably read about my 2010 challenge layout, Rose Hill - in P4. Well the trackwork arrived today and along with the P4 Easytrack bases, I ordered some OO ones to see the differences between P4, finescale OO and Peco Code 75 so this evening I built up a set of each.
     
    Left to right - OO Easytrack Code 83 flatbottom concrete sleeper, OO Peco Code 100 flatbottom wooden sleeper, OO Easytrack Code 75 bullhead wooden sleeper and P4 Easytrack Code 75 bullhead wooden sleeper. Visually P4 blows OO out the water, and the Easytrack does the same to the Peco track.

     
    Move round from end on though and the difference becomes hardly noticeable between the Easytrack P4 and OO. Peco still a poor relation.

     
    So the next step? Is it a wholescale switch to P4? No I don't think so - yet. The likelihood is Paxton Road Mk2 will use Easytrack and stay OO. Hmmm, maybe... or maybe not...
    What have i started!!
  11. James Hilton
    I'm a victim of my own interests - I'm sure I'm not alone in having a myriad of projects on my workbench at one time all vying for my attention.
    Well Rose Hill has taken a bit of a back seat if I'm honest with the construction of my first etched brass kit for Meadow Lane (my Manchester Ship Canal Railway project) and tinkering on OO stuff from time to time as Paxton Road crawls forwards.
    However, with the kit stalled awaiting some weighting to improve running I looked to my masking tape an airbrush and decided it was time to start painting the Pacer.
    Those that followed this project will remember it's a very early Hornby model - with significant re-worked detail above and below the chassis with a simple Ultrascale conversion to P4. I started by spraying on the white paint on the doors and where the stripes were. When this was dry I masked the body and sprayed the yellow ends. When this was dry I did the roof and inside ends. I was now at a point where I could begin on the sides - and started with masking the yellow, grey and the doors/white striped. I applied the purple (which ended up being Halfords 'Berry Purple' as I couldn't get a good enough match by mixing) all over and then once this was dry masked the purple and applied the blue. When all the masking was removed - success! Certainly a unit that looked Northern!
    The night after I added the black cab window surrounds and the orange cantrail stripe using a lining pen.
    I couldn't help myself this evening and dug out the custom transfers John at Precision Labels had made up for me They look superb don't they! After splashing some matt black on the chassis, and temporarily fitting the glazing, I posed her outdoors for a few shots to show you all how she's coming together (very nicely indeed - I'm very happy!).Hornby Pace








    I mentioned in the forum earlier in the week that I've also made some progress on the station building. This is now at a position where I can add the detailing (pipe runs, guttering, signage etc) as I've finished the basic brick and roof finish. This has been achieved using just Humbrol 100, 98 and 33 - along with some white 34. Mixing on a pallette and then dry brushing on the brick colour - building this up and then adding washes of brown and grey when it was dry to try and match prototype photos! I think it's showing some real promise!
     



    Questions, comments and encouragement all welcomed! I hope to finish the Pacer before getting stuck back into painting the kit - and the station is a nice 'hospital job' I can pick up between other projects. The pub however hasn't progressed at all with a lack of enthusiasm for cutting out hundreds more windows and making a very tricky roof. One day!
  12. James Hilton
    Where to go after building a pair of Worsley Works scratch aid kits?
     
    I was looking for a natural progression, but also a nice kit of an attractive prototype...
    I wanted to find something that used a proprietary N gauge chassis but perhaps needed valve gear...
    I stumbled upon the Neil Sayer La Meuse quite by accident. It ticked all the boxes, exquisite design, clean etches, based on the GF 08 chassis, quite complicated valve gear, and available direct from Neil with a chassis as well.
     
    So back in early May a rather rash purchase was made...

     
    The kit is based upon a 600mm gauge prototype built in 1938 by the Belgium firm 'La Meuse' for 'Maizy' sugar refinery in France but ended up at the 'Tramway de Pithiviers a Toury'. There is a history and some photos on the International Steam website.
     
    So back to the kit... it arrived, beautifully packaged, and opened to find clean white metal boiler casting, lost wax brass castings for the chimney, dome and sundries, clean nickel silver etches and wire. Instructions on a CD too, with clear photos and assembly notes, along with a brief history of the prototype (more perhaps on that another day).

     
    A start was made on the chassis, that folded up nicely, and then on to the cylinders...


     
    ...but then two things happened. One my G scale Romanian Lxd2 kit arrived, and second, my son was born! Suffice to say working in G scale, in styrene was easier to fit around a new born baby so the Neil Sayer kit went in the drawer.
     
    Until this week...
     
    With the Faur Lxd2 finished, I just dug out the box to have a look. Before I knew it out had come the soldering iron and I finished soldering on the laminations on the cylinders and attached them to the chassis... Still a long way to go, more chassis detail bits to add before the instructions lead me onto the valve gear.


     
    So first impressions, this is a well designed kit with good instructions that is fitting together very well indeed.

     
    The real question you'll all have, is where am I going next!? Regular readers of my external blog will have seen sketches and scribbles for a number of 009 layout schemes, to keep me content over winter when I can't run the garden railway as easily.
  13. James Hilton

    Pacer progress...

    By James Hilton,

    Well it's been a few weeks now since I first posted my intentions to modify a Hornby Pacer up to more modern standards and after a stint on my rake of PNAs and some structures for Paxton Road a parcel arrived from Mainly Trains...
     
    Handrail wire and short handrail knobs! Just what I had been waiting for - and an excuse to get the Pacer back out.
    I've removed all the plastic handrails and replaced with wire on one unit so far, it really does lift the model. I've also tidied up the doors with a knife and file to better represent the later two piece doors.
     
    Those that are following the 2010 challenge forum may have spotted my entry (or eminent entry). Rose Hill! What might come as more of a surprise is my choice of gauge - P4!!
     
    Yes P4 - I might be mad but I'll be converting this Pacer to be the sole item of stock on Rose Hill. So where a basic upgrade and repaint may have originally sufficed I feel I need to raise the game a little now.
    Ultrascale make a conversion kit for the wheel set and so I set to work with the rest of the chassis. I've removed the original front apron, and sanded down the original axle pedalstals to be flat. I've crafted up a front apron from plasticard which has worked well - it now needs the steps adding.
     
    The new front apron, modelled from prototype photos. Also note the new handrails, including additional driver ones on the door, along with a new lamp iron. The glazing is temporarily fitted to check it still fitted without modification.

     
    I've also added the modified squarerer pedalstals by adding plasticard to these carefully. These might need a little more work to make them slightly deeper and it looks like the prototype has a lip along the bottom edge I will try and craft from either thin plastic or some etched stainless steel off-cuts.
     
    A comparison shot of the original chassis at the bottom still to be worked on, and the modified chassis above.

     
    Next up is working out what to do with the exhaust on the inner ends, crafting the radio pod for the roof and deciding if the plastic block that holds the weight can be modified at all whilst still allowing some hidden weight!
  14. James Hilton
    Well, despite 'Wasp' not being finished yet (it needs priming and painting before I can fit an interior) I've started my second 009 project...
     
    My other modelling at the moment is in G-gauge, as some of you know, and in particular Austrian prototypes. Whilst searching around for a second 009 project I stumbled across the Worsley Works kit for the IOMR Schoema diesel.


    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/df/IMR-Loco-17.jpg?uselang=en-gb
     
    A funny and odd looking prototype, but definitely European looking - and if I'm honest that's what swung it for me. I wanted a second etched brass kit, I've not got on well with white metal in the past, so this seemed perfect so a purchase was made. I decided to use another Kato tram chassis as it's cheap, the correct wheel base and also would fit entirely within the underframe leaving the bonnet clear for extra weight. Total cost now circa £40. Bargain!
     
    So this evening I opened it all up (mainly as a distraction from the G-scale Roll-wagen I'm building at the moment) and made a start. First up I modified the chassis so that it would fit - the foot plate has a distinctive step down for the cab. This now clears this perfectly, and the flat bits front and back will aid building up a mounting at a later date. The section I removed was cut out simply with a razor saw. The buffers were pulled out, end handrails cut off and the couplings just pinged out of their mountings. Simple job.

     
    Next I opted to start on the bonnet and fitted the 12 grills to the bonnet sides. This wasn't as difficult as I envisaged and I used copius quantities of Carr's green flux and 145degC solder, then tidied up with my new fibreglass pencil.

     
    I'll share more on this as it progresses alongside my other, larger scale projects

  15. James Hilton
    Paxton Yard? You've never heard of it?

    My OO gauge photo plank was getting on a bit and I wanted to try out some ballast, scenic and weathering techniques on some track work so came up with the idea of laying a couple of tracks to give a different sort of photo plank. I was inspired a few months ago by both Exactoscale's Fast-track and the P4 Diesel Depot, Weston Road, that used coaches as a scenic back drop.

    I'm pretty pleased - obviously this is still a work in progress! It's built on 24mm ply (so should be warp free) and the P4 Track Co, Exactoscale 'Fast Track' with steel rails has been used. The two tracks at the back are wooden sleepered bullhead rail and the front is concrete sleepered flat bottom rail, ballasted with Woodland Scenics fine grey ballast (not quite got round to gluing it down yet!). The track also has cosmetic fish plates fitted and has been sprayed with Humbrol 98 (Matt Chocolate) to tone down it's plastic appearance.



    So what do you think? Next I'll be gluing the ballast down before adding some grass and overgrowth to the front edges and between the rails. It's going to be a great tool to use to photograph my detailed ready-to-run locomotives, and use wagons as a backdrop. I'll leave with favourite - 33019 parked up - my favourite Crompton (that still needs it's second side finishing).



  16. James Hilton
    My G-scale journey continues and I'm beginning to really really enjoy working in this scale. It feels much more liberating and the bulk and familiarity of the materials you can use is really refreshing. So the EJ&KLR (read my blog - much more regular updates than on here) needs a shed.
     
    This project is very emotional because although these plans were discussed with my father, I never had a chance to show him the plans before he passed away on the 10th, earlier this month. Buildings and structures have always been a big part of his modelling, he scratchbuilt a massive GWR Engine Shed for our Didcot layout in my early teens, along with a workshop and coaling stage - all out of plywood and hardboard - then clad with plasticard. Later on he built two massive grain elevators for our Harris, Saskatchewan layout based on the Canadian prairies, this time MDF clad in plasticard.
     
    He was more of an artist than an engineer or draughtsman, a trait I expect that came from his life long passion for geography (and in particular teaching - inspiring and energising students - he went from teaching, to lecturing to Head of Department at Chester College and on the way wrote a best selling Geography A-level textbook). In this vein his structures were artist impressions - really realistic, but not ultra sharp or accurate scale models - they captured the emotion and character of the structures they represented with an imperfect warmth that I always found hard to replicate in my early teens. Even more recently I've been hugely frustrated by building structures in 4mm, never quite happy - although Rose Hill station was a triumph and a model that Dad reflected really captured the character perfectly of the suburban run down station.
     
    Everything in G is big though - so the idea of going back to my natural wood working, well wood bodging skills came to mind and a suitable quantity of MDF was purchased from the local DIY superstore. But what to build? There was a distinct lack of suitable plans to follow despite trawling the internet. On top of that the EJ&KLR is a freelance creation of both my father and my minds. I've always had in mind something along the line of the Welshpool and Llanfair in nature, but with a strong Austrian influence.
     
    So the first few days after he passed away I found myself doodling plans - and after about Mark V I had something which did it - captured the essence of what I wanted to create. It's got an element of the Welshpool and Llanfair running shed, along with Austrian Narrow Gauge sheds evocative of the last days of regular steam operation on these lines in the 1970s.
     

    Trains du Steyrtalbahn 04 [CC-BY-2.0 (www.creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0)], by trams aux fils., from Wikimedia Commons

    [CC-BY-2.0 (www.creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0)], by fairlightworks, from Wikimedia Commons
    After the purchase of the LGB U-tank 0-6-2 I knew the vital dimensions I needed to accomodate so I drew up a sketch in Adobe Illustrator to get the proportions right - something I'd not done previously. It all looked well, and so with a few tweaks of the geometry around the door and incorporating some construction notes I was ready to start.

     
    The weather today however has not been conducive to cutting up wood outside - however a small break in the rain (well it turned to drizzle) and I braved it and in under half an hour had all the pieces cut out (just by eye following pencil lines with my jig saw - no precision cutting here) and dry assembled in the kitchen to check the design had translated well to 3D! To give you an idea of the size this is 40cm long, and 21cm wide - about 25cm high. The sides are 12mm and the ends and base are 9mm MDF. Satisfyingly chunky.

     
    Once I was happy it all fitted together properly I took the sides and marked up the doorways and windows. These parts were taken back outside. To cut the windows you drill a hole in the middle and then use the jig saw to open the window up by cutting into the corners and then back along each edge. It sounds tricky but is really straight forward. I took the finished items back into the kitchen and wow - it looks superb. Absolutely perfect.

     
    This project is as much a tribute as it is therapy - and I'm finding the skills I'm using quite energising at the moment. Combining notebook sketches, computer drawings, woodwork - and creating something chunky, heavy with real mass - it's very satisfying and creative.
     
    So anyhow - what next? Well it's now glued and drying in the kitchen - no point of a photo of that - this evening I'll use watered down exterior PVA to wash all over the model to seal the MDF, paying particular attention using a thicker mix to the cut edges. Once this is dry tomorrow I'll apply a coat of primer. I need to complete the interior painting before I can glue on the roof!
     
    Questions, comments, thoughts, reflections, encouragement - all welcome. Can I all urge you to visit my blog (http://ejklr.blogspot.com) as well - as it's dead easy to update that straight from my iPhone, unlike posts on here which require a bit more thought, effort and the use of my Mac.
  17. James Hilton
    A cold wet windy day and a trip over to my parents in Chester gave an excuse to head down to the docks to 'soak up the atmosphere' of the former Manchester Ship Canal railway line at Ellesmere Port Docks.
     
    I do plan to go back on a sunny summer weekend, take a proper stroll around and get a better selection of snaps but with cold weather and a busy dock entrance I didn't hang about yesterday.
     
    Compare these shots with those I posted about the Manchester Ship Canal earlier as a comment on one of my other posts...
    http://j-eyres.fotopic.net/p48038273.html
    http://j-eyres.fotopic.net/p48038272.html
    http://j-eyres.fotopic.net/p48168081.html





     
    So there I am nosing about and working out that I've parked across the old tracks into the depot when the Level Crossing warning lights start to flash...
    ... and 66602 rolls across with a train laden with coal!
     
    66602 and a heavily laden train of imported coal coming down the old Manchester Ship Canal Railway from Eastham.



     
    So Meadow Lane progresses a little in my head, although more sketching is necessary now as I'm getting a little confused!
  18. James Hilton
    I've just got back from a lovely week in the Forest of Dean with the family.
    Of course we visited the railway (and rode behind City of Truro - a real treat!) and that's where my fascination started... two books, six sketches and lots of doodling later and I've not worked up a suitable track plan, decided on a location, period or anything really but I was inspired and it's another layout plan on my 'one day' plan.
    I've always had a soft spot for the GWR and in particular the Collet cab 57xx panniers...

    If these weren't over £100 I'd definitely now be getting my hands on one of these...

    Parkend, and in particular March End sidings (the Parkend branch) were particularly appealing - I even went back and walked the track bed...



    and this isn't blooming Cinderford (tired scanning and confused scribbling - it's Coleford)! Coleford had two stations and was particularly interesting if I had the space...

     
    So there we go... I'm mad aren't I!!
  19. James Hilton
    I took a trip down to Paxton Road today as I heard that an EWS 37/4 was on the MOD job - a rarity these days. Mid morning saw the feeder service from the hub at Didcot arrive behind a battered 37411 'Keith David Hilton'. I managed to grab a few snaps during my lunch break but had to head back to work so didn't see so much of local shunter 08543 shunting the depot. As I left 37411 was stabled in the layback siding and the place was deserted. I guess there isn't too much urgency about things on a cold winters lunchtime.
     
    Hope you enjoy the snaps. 37411 is a modified and weathered Bachmann model (based on 37411) with custom name plate transfers from Precision Labels. 08543 is another modified and weathered Bachmann model (08648) with a repainted roof, rebuilt front steps plus some nice subtle weathering. All stock is modified Bachmann with weathering and detailing. The VAAs await a further trip through the workbench to sort dropping coupler and fit disc brake calipers and disc brake etchings to the wheel sets. Questions and comments welcome - I'll keep an eye on comments on this blog.
     
    37411 arriving at Paxton Road:





    It was then uncoupled, ran forward and into the loop awaiting the shunter:





    Todays resident shunter at Paxton Road is Eastleigh based 08543. A shunter is outbased here during the week - unless an 09 is rostered, in which case this trips up with the MOD working from the second hub at Eastleigh as required.





     
    Just as I was leaving I grabbed a shot of 37411 stabled:



     
    08543 shunts the newly arrived vans into the headshunt for the MOD sidings:



  20. James Hilton
    I've been tinkering over the last few evenings on my Judith Edge Sentinel shunter.
     
    I aquired some lead sheet from a friend and have filled both bonnets - running performance is vastly improved! I've also added the end handrails from 0.45mm wire - and the fiddly sand pipes on the chassis.
     
    Eagle eyed viewers will note I've done a 'halfwit' (sorry Paul!) and got one ends handrails inconsistently bent - this has now been corrected (photos are always good at showing up defects). I've also got to fill some gaps in the join between the bonnet fuel tank and the cab - I was worried about soldering so close to the windows!
     
    Once she's 'ready' I'll apply Maskol to the glazing and sent her to the paint shop to emerge in tatty faded MSC blue with wasp striping on the buffer beams and below the running board on each side Finishing touches will be the sand box covers, swords, Sentinel plates and window frames before adding Letraset numbering and an overhead warning flash.
     
    Photos taken this evening in the garden - and as cruel close ups go they don't get much worse!
    Questions and encouragement welcomed! As first kits go I'm pleased with what I've produced. I wish I could have done better in some areas - practice makes perfect. For my next kit I'm getting a new 25W iron as mine has been great but the tip is a little 'tired' and corroded! I'd also consider a better way to do press through the rivets - something I struggled with on this kit.
     









  21. James Hilton
    When I come towards the end of a project, a kit, wagon, loco, building or layout I never seem to be able to quite 'finish' it...

    Usually I've already started several other projects before getting this far, certainly a contributory factor, but why can I never just 'finish' something. This is a case in point - my Judith Edge Sentinel - and I'm pleased as punch (although hate the fact that the weathering looks better in real life then I can capture in photos, and the 'streaking' looks ropey in some of these shots) with it! It's my first etched brass kit, my first P4 gauge locomotive and my first go at doing wasp stripes with just masking tape!!!




    I mentioned in my status earlier this week that it was now 99% finished? Well yes I soldered up some windscreen wipers from 0.3mm brass rod that I filed a flat edge into to represent the wiper arm and the angled tip. Hardly noticeable now but I know it's there and it was mega fiddly. Once fitted I gave the model a dusting of track dirt from the underside before mixing in a little black to do a dust from over head - the blue of the roof and bonnets was too bright - and it's worked a treat, pulling the powders and washes together.




    So what's left?
    I need to add the headlight lens, paint the marker lights with a gloss black and add the sand box filler hatches (when I find them). For now she sits on my shelf looking pleased with herself - as am I!




    So why don't I get on with it? I don't know... Currently I'm browsing Hattons for any bargains despite a 37, 58 and 66 all sitting on my workbench.

    Questions, comments, encouragement and reflections on my 80-20 rule most appreciated!
  22. James Hilton
    Well I don't seem to have posted on here for a very long time indeed and several large scale projects have come and gone in the last 10 months. On top of those (all detailed on my G-scale blog: http://ejklr.blogspot.co.uk) I have also been working on a variety of 009 kits (most featured on my 4mm scale blog: http://paxton-road.blogspot.co.uk)...
    However for those of you regular readers of my infrequent blog who have not seen what I've been up to, and inspired a touch by Jon's magnus opus entry on his P4 Class 47 I thought I'd try and summarise progress on my Neil Sayer La Meuse kit.
     
    (My first entry is here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/10/entry-10281-musing-over-la-meuse/)
     
    I've mentioned milestones in my modelling in the past, but at the start of this project I honestly felt like I'd surpassed them all and conquered something that has put me off kit building steam engines for a very long time... This was back in October...

    I assembled the connecting and piston rod, cut out, cleaned up, reamed out, soldered up and pinned together the valve gear for one side of La Meuse. My word it's a test of my eye sight and incredible fiddly, but it's worth it, it looks superb! I can't believe the machines or workers in China/Taiwan who put this stuff together for a living, they must have some incredibly strong magnifiers, patience of a saint and good work tools.

     
    However, if I'm honest my progress was slowed by the lovely but daunting valve gear. By February I had nearly finished one side, with just the link that connects it all to the chassis to fit...

     
    Then came the moment of truth, before I fitted the final pin in the valve gear on the first completed side I wanted to test out the chassis. At this stage the second side was not fitted. Apart from needing a drop of retainer on the return crank pin it all worked smoothly...

     
    It wasn't then until the end of April when the second side of valve gear was finished off. This marked the end of hot sweats, blue air and burnt fingers...

    After all the trials and tribulations of the first side (where I had to re-do assembly a few times due to my own mistakes) I actually finished all the second side assembly in one go with only one tricky moment when I soldered the reverse link solid!
     
    And to prove you don't need any special tools my selection of snips, pliers, tweezers etc...


     
    I was worried about how the body would go together - the etched parts seemed very fine, much smaller and neater then kits I'd assembled in the past. However, the thought of seeing the potential of the finished model was enough encouragement to start so I assembled the footplate, buffer beams and got my first view of the finished models proportions...

     
    The model yet again proved to assemble very easily, it was great to add the boiler and side tank weights and do some running too. At this stage I am still not 100% happy with the performance of the Graham Farish chassis, I need a rolling road so I can get it run in properly. It runs a lot better backwards than forwards, which suggests a gear issue rather than the assembled valve gear.
     
    The body is detailed by adding half etched thin sheets over the carcass previously assembled above. I was initially concerned about how to solder these together and did consider glue - however I took a few months off the project and started this again earlier in July. I used plenty of Carr's Green Flux and low melt (145degC) solder - carefully applying a touch along all the edges. The solder flowed into the join easily and only needed the smallest amount of tidying up...

     
    At this stage, the model is beginning to look finished but there were still quite a few detailing bits to add to the cab before the etches were empty of parts however. So that brings us up to the present, and tonight despite spending the same amount of time again on the body it feels like there is less to show for the effort!

     
    The rivets along the roof line have been added from half etched parts, and the window frames carefully fitted. I've also added the side tank weights and the tank foot steps.

     
    I'll leave you with this side profile - a photos I find very exciting as it shows the lovely proportions of the prototype and with half a squint I can being to see the finished article emerging. Some people have asked how big the model is so I've posed it alongside a 50p piece, which goes to show how delicate the valve gear is on this model!

  23. James Hilton
    Well my parallel modelling in G-gauge (http://ejklr.blogspot.co.uk) and 009 continues (http://paxton-road.blogspot.co.uk), albeit at a reduced pace with a busy time at work and an even busier time at home (my second child is due in about 4 weeks)…
     
    It does seem a long time since I wrote on RMweb so in the style of Jon020 here is a bumper update. The Worsley Works (WW) kits are cheap, well designed but really are ‘scratch aids’ in that you get a body, possibly a roof, possibly a chassis and the motorisation/rolling chassis and other details are left to you. It’s a great balance of modelling – that with time and patience can produce a really excellent result. In a world of near mm perfect offerings in OO from Hornby, Bachmann, Dapol and the like it’s refreshing to work in a scale where true model making is still very much the norm, against the dumming down of the skills required by increasing standards in ready-to-run locomotives, rolling stock and now even ready-to-plant buildings!
     
     
    The Wasp…
    The ‘Wasp’, the standard gauge re-gauged inspection saloon that resides (albeit stored at present I believe) on the Welshpool and Llanfair (W&L) is now looking pretty complete – still some way to go (more on that later). I can’t quite remember what stage I’d got the model too in my last blog entry? After putting together the chassis and body in brass, fitting the KATO tram chassis I moved onto body detailing. I started with a 40thou plasticard roof, scored down the centre (on the reverse) and gently bent into a mild ridge. This was superglued to the brass flat roof on the WW kit, and the gaps at each end filled and shaped with Milliput Superfine. On the chassis the sandboxes were scratchbuilt from 10thou plasticard, very fiddly but worth it for the accurate shape, and sanding pipework added from 0.4mm brass wire. Other chassis details included some old staples for the foot steps and plasticard and brass rod offcuts for the battery box and exhaust pipe. In addition a few bits from the ‘junk’ box (I think from a US outline multiple working detailing set) were used to represent the valves and taps. On the body I added L section plasticard to represent the door runners, off cuts of sprue shaped to be a headlight at each end and then 0.4 and 0.3mm brass rod gently shaped to represent the windscreen wipers, and 0.4mm brass rod used for the handles.
     





     
    When complete a coat of primer transformed the meddly of parts into a coherent whole – and showed the promise of the basically ‘right’ character of the original WW scratch-aid kit. I left the Halfords Plastic primer to dry for a few weeks before applying Humbrol paints for the body colours. This started with matt yellow on each end, this was then masked with B&Q precision masking tape cut to the right size (using a scalpel and a metal rule on a small sheet of glass from an old clip picture frame). I then airbrushed on lightly the matt black – which means you get really sharp crisp lines and no build up of paint against the masking edges. Once dry the ends were masked and I applied the dark green body colour.
     




     
    You should also notice the wonderful etched brass works plates on each end – these are from Narrow Planet (www.narrowplanet.co.uk) and are painted by brushing on quite sparingly onto the plate whilst it’s on the fret, letting it dry a little (say 5 minutes for an enamel like Humbrol) until it goes tacky and then turn it upside down and polish on a piece of clean white paper – this gently removes paint from the raised surfaces. Then cut them out and gently burnish the edges to remove any paint left on those… They were affixed with a spot of Superglue on each end.
     


     
    This model is now ready for detail painting (headlights, wipers etc), then I’ll seal it with varnish. Then the order of tasks needs working out but I need to fit glazing, paint the interior walls, fit a engine cabinet, seats and driving controls and a gentle weathering of the chassis and body.
     
     
    …and the Viking…
    I did intend originally to progress these models separately but the Worsley Works (WW) Isle of Man (IOM) Schoema kit very quickly caught up with the progress on Wasp. This model also utilises a KATO tram chassis, and I last posted on here as the basic WW parts had all been fitted and I was about to move onto scratchbuilding the remaining parts.
     
    The prototype is of German origin and has typically a lot of chassis detail and a high running board. There was no way to escape this and provide only minimal detailing – the quality of the body etches were crying out for going to town on the chassis as well. Before starting I got together some plasticard round sections (an Evergreen variety pack I think) as working in plasticard can be quicker, although less robust.
     

     
    I started with the axle boxes – and found some white-metal castings left over from my OO days – these are S-kits ones cut from the Bruninghaus spring units I retro fitted to my old Bachmann PNA 2-axle hopper wagons. I then framed these with some L-section plasticard with TINY fillets of 10thou plasticard. This was a maddening job but well worth it on the finished model – I could only manage 10-15 minutes at a time on this job! These were fixed with Superglue to the brass chassis.
     

     
    The damper units were put together from some L, U and round section plasticard from Evergreen. The dampers are just two diameters of round section glued together. These were constructed off the model, and fitted after the brake reservoirs and pipework were fitted. The brake reservoirs (different sizes each side) were fabricated from round tube plasticard and the ends filled with white Milliput Superfine. The banding on these is just plastic microstrip from Slaters. The pipework on the chassis is from 0.4 and 0.7mm brass wire. These parts were Superglued to the brass chassis, and then the damper units were fitted, also secured with Superglue. The small valves next to the larger of the two reservoirs were from a Hornby Class 31 detailing pack that I had in my ‘junk’ box, and the brake hoses each end are, I think, Heljan examples from the Class 33 detailing kit.
     
    In contrast, the bodywork needed a lot less work. The handrails were fashioned from 0.4mm brass rod – and used Gibson short handrail knobs along the bonnet, and I added an A1 Models turned brass horn on the cab front sheet. The ventilators on the bonnet top were from the N-gauge buffers on the KATO tram chassis and the exhaust stack is just a piece of round section plasticard.
     

     
    Applying the Halfords Plastic primer totally transformed the model and showed the level of detail I’d managed to work into the chassis to good effect. Whilst I had the matt black paint in the airbrush from painting Wasp I also painted the chassis and underside of the body on Viking. This was carefully masked to paint the buffer beams, again airbrushed with a mix of Humbrol orange and red to give a faded colour. Unfortunately I damaged the front step handrails at this stage, so these now need re-fitting. I’m considering drilling small holes in the footplate to make them more robust. Once the red was dry I masked the chassis and buffer beams and then mixed up a custom blue from Railmatch Regional Railways dark blue, Intercity silver grey and Humbrol yellow, and applied this with the airbrush.
     


     
    The next step with Viking will be to apply some gloss varnish to the edges of the buffer beams where I intend to add white chevrons, then detail paint the cab window surrounds and touch in other parts like the vacuum brake pipes before giving the model a coat of matt varnish. I can then fit the glazing, the roof and apply some weathering.
     
    I’ve ordered some 009 Greenwich couplings that will also be fitted to this model.
     
     
    So there you go – a bumper update – I hope you’ve enjoyed reading. More regular updates can be found in my blogger blogs (see the intro paragraph), and now I’m pondering whether to build a micro 009 layout to use these models on…
  24. James Hilton
    I took my daughter for a trip out this afternoon to our local preserved railway, the Churnett Valley Railway at Cheddleton near Leek.

     
    We spent many happy days there earlier this year and were hauled on numerous occasions by the lines resident Class 37 due to a steam engine failure for a lot of the summer.
     
    The line is 'closed' during January but I thought we'd see something today, and since my daughter really wanted to see some trains it was worth a punt. Cheddleton was pretty busy and we found 37075 in the platform - much to Elly's delight! She loves the big blue diesel.
     
    Anyway since I'm about to embark on detailing my third Bachmann Class 37 I though it prudent to take a few chassis detail shots to help me with my detailing - and thought they might be of wider interest so have shared them here as well.
     



















     
    Hope they are of some use!
  25. James Hilton
    As you'll be aware Meadow Lane is about firsts for me - so including P4, track building and fully scratchbuilt buildings I'm also trying to build my own etched brass kit.
     
    I've shown you guys the early progress but wanted to get a bit further before I posted anything else. I'm now in a position where the chassis is 'finished' for now - it's taken about 10 or so hours for me to get this far over a month or so and I can honestly say I'm chuffed to bits. To be honest it's one of the only things keeping me sane with all the other stuff going on in my life at the moment - and I'm proud with what I've achieved. Bear in mind this is my first ever etched brass kit - and my first real flirtation with proper soldering. Things are getting better although I've struggled with some of the smaller parts and forming rivets I think the result is passable.
     
    Here is the chassis from both ends and underside (please ignore the messy soldering - you won't see it when it's finished!



     
    Here is the chassis balancing on the Black Beetle showing you can modify it quite easily to get the correct ride height - I'm still not sure how I'm going to fabricate a new mounting for the Black Beetle though so any ideas welcome!

     
    I'm pleased with the lifting eyes, they've come out well and look really fine! The rivet plates behind the buffer beams were hard though - not to flood with solder when you floated them into position (they were lightly tinned on reverse first). I think it worked ok - this is the best of the 4!


     
    Questions, comments and encouragement welcomed - I'm embarking on the bonnet next! If I can do this then I'd suggest any reasonably confident modeller could follow in my footsteps. The Judith Edge kit is well designed, fits well and although is only described in words (rather than assembly diagrams) it is actually pretty easy to work out as you go. I'm really impressed so far and will definitely build another one day!
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