shortliner

Ah - just realised it is part of the lace

I have a unit that I bought from the states - it cost me a lot more than that - where did you get the control unit?

Sorry - I wouldn't know where you might get it fixed - may be worth keeping an eye on ebay, and swapping innards about, but only you can say if it is worth it TO YOU to repair/replace

The click is not a split gear, is it? I remember that was a problem with some US diesels.

Some turning and moving with capstans, perhaps? Great fun!

You should be able to save them into your parameter files for use elsewhere

Rather an appropriate reefer on the left of the first photo!

Although they pick up on both bogies and have traction tyres on two wheels on the driving bogie - the Bachman UE chassis might do what you want. They resond well to a bit of lead flashing stuck inside the roof . my boxcabs weigh in at 400 grams each

Not to rain on your parade, but I'd suggest that your ship needs to be about twice the size in each dimension This may help http://www.paulashob...ontainer/Detail. The real things are huge,even a model 30" long would be small, and if those are 20' containers yours only looks to scale about 210' long the bottom item here may be of interest http://www.tophobbyt...=3&SeriesID=363 and on here http://www.bizrate.c..._start--20.html along with http://www.all-model...ead.php?t=11027 and http://www.matts-pla...art1/links.html I also found this http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/1853

the original baseboard level is the bottom of the storm drain. I topped it with a new piece of 1/2" MDF to give me a clean start. Trying to be frugal, I used offcuts, the rear one ending at the back face of the drain. That's what formed the idea, when the next new piece was added I just left a gap creating the drain slot,

 

Originally the slot had straight walls, I used filler (P38 body filler from the car spares shop) Filler applied liberally down both sides then using a plasti card offcut with an angle and rad I scraped off the excess down both sides whilst still wet, leaving the wall shape. Once dry a bit of sanding , a second light filling and final sanding left the shape I have. P38 is filler plus a small amount of hardener added and only takes 10 minutes to "dry" you have to work fast or do small areas at once but not waiting for drying is a big bonus.

Thanks John - an interesting way of doing it!

Jack

John - that looks really good - pray tell, what did you use to form the storm drain? Is it simply cut out and then polyfilla'd, or have you used something else?

Looks to work well.

John - probably a bit late now - but some of the float bridges had a pontoon on/under the "damp" end, so that it rose and fell with the tide automatically, rather than towers with counterweights.

The self adhesive tile idea is brilliant!

The Dark-side obviously suits you!

Love that Yreka Western box car

Neat way of doing a barge, John. Another usefull substance is the Teflon coated baking sheet sold by Morrisons - very slippery!

John - if it helps, there is some more on that one here starting about half way down page 10

http://www.railroad-...chTerms=shoebox and here

http://www.rmweb.co....ngleferry+wharf

Welcome to the Dark Side- there are plenty of us with torches!

If you use XTrkCad email me and I'll burn you a load of designs - be aware that I may have to head south at short notice, and may not be available for a while

Jack

Try to get some of the Blue Lo-tack masking tape - it is less stickbut still seems to mask well

It's a lot sturdier than it looks Jack thanks to leg sections at 90 degrees and the rigidity when all boards are together.

 

Plus I'll opt for using barriers with this version which I hadn't before with K1yhaven as some of the operation will be done from the front. It'll definitely be a 2 person job to keep the activity up.

Yes, my Harlem Station is a walk-round operation too - not sure at the moment how I'm going to keep people back!

I hope a child doesn't trip and push against it, Andy - those thin legs look awfully flexy! May be worth gluing another strip of wood to each upright to form a T or L shape and cut the flex down. Google Everbuild Lumberjack 30 minute polyurethane wood glue. WEAR RUBBER GLOVES WHEN USING, AND DO IT SOMEWHERE WHERE A COUPLE OF DRIPS WONT HURT!!!

Best

Jack

The Arches, Stubbs Lane, possibly

I think in my hearing it has always been refered to as the " Sod'im touch" as in "Well, if 'e thinks THAT'S going to work..............!

OOOPs 404 Error - Site not published when I use your link!

If you fancy making your own Setrack-equivalent templates in XTrkcad, set preferences to metric and scale to O and then go to the turnout designer - select regular turnout and enter the following = Diverging length 33.200, Diverging offset 6.800, diverging angle 23.00, overall length 33.400 and save it

then go to curved turnout and enter = inner length 49.00, inner angle 36.000,inner offset 17.600, outer angle 25.000, outer offset 8.800, outer length 47.400, and save it - you should now be able to print off the templares at 1:1 if you don't work in metric for drawing your designs, go back to preferences and reset to English . HIH