Kenton

I hate to be a teansy bit critical but ... was the horn usually that limp on an 03 ? otherwise it looks great.

you are in luck - there were three (D2731, D2738, D2761) all in 1966.

Thanks Jamie, no problem with chaff, as it at least says there is someone out there. I also welcome critcal comments and pointing out faults/errors, as sometimes one can look at something too close for too long and simply become blind to it. The camera can sometimes be very cruel blowing up things out of all proportion to their actual size. but it is sometimes useful as I had not noticed the scratch on the cab roof, and a few other bits of stray solder that will require attacking with the scrapers.

There is still quite a bit of detailing to add to the engine casing. Starting with the engine top cover which was made by first laminating together a half-etched top and [51] and [50] followed by a bottom spacer [52] that is slightly smaller all round. Before assembly, these parts were all rolled on the mat to impart on them a gentle curve. This assembly was then soldered to the top of the engine casing. There is no reference mark for its position but the drawing with the kit and photographs of the preserved loco indicate that it is set slightly rearward on the engine compartment. The handrails on the front, either side of the radiator casing were added from 0.4mm wire in the same way as for the cab handrails. Remembering to keep the half-etched recess for the front free of solder. The main handrails are 0.5mm wire and are stood off from the engine casing by supplied brass pillars. These pillars are drilled through, but need to be opened out with a small five sided broach to enable the 0.5mm wire to pass through. The holes on the casing side also need enlarging to take these pillars. Sadly the quality control of these pillars was found to be poor, as 3 out of the 10 supplied had holes broken through. I could see no way of correcting these other than filing a vee in place of the hole and hoping they do not distort the wire too much. There are 2 handrails either side with a break between the engine casing and the fuel tank. I added these as complete units rather than trying to thread through the pillars after they are mounted. This keeps the pillars orientated correctly while soldering in place, again best done from inside the casing. Of course those 3 duff ones didn't help. The rivets on the casing front were punched out. Then the radiator [31], its surround [32] and slats [33] were removed from the fret. The holes in the radiator slats need a slight tease with a broach to allow a 0.4mm wire to pass easily through especially if the aim is to have the slats slanted. They were moveable on the prototype. The radiator was assembled by first soldering the surround to the face of the radiator. The slats were then added one at a time tack soldering them into their etched grooves on the radiator while keeping them threaded on the 0.4mm wire. When this had been done, applying a liberal amount of flux and reheating the panel was sufficient to solder the assembly solid. Be very careful if heating from the back of the radiator as the surround in particular can shift, does it show? Of course it was not helped when soldering the completed radiator into the hole in the casing front I had one of those rather senile moments and soldered it in with the slats horizontal! A stupid mistake that meant having to apply far too much heat to get it to drop out again, followed by a thorough clean and re-assembly. The final step was to fit the casing front into the half-etched recess in the engine casing. The camera has just pointed out that slipped slat and so I will have to add that to my list of tidy-ups. Once again I have left lamp brackets and the like until later when there is less likelihood of catching them on everything. But otherwise that completes the superstructure. .

Hmm no faster did I edit it to correct my error you responded sorry for any confusion.

Hockley (Birmingham Snow Hill) - one of the biggest - there was a big article in GWRJ Nos 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 and 20 very detailed with good photos and lots of details. Opened 1857 with both broad and narrow gauge. In 1900 there were 2 large sheds one for "Inwards" and one for "Outwards" they had different track layouts.

If you ask me that looks like it was worth the effort in the end. A few bodywork adjustments and a repaint will make it a model to be proud of. I don't think I would have even bothered so a medal is due alone just for taking it on. What exactly is wrong with the motor? Mine in the Kitson gave up on me while on the rolling road. It only turned out to be one of the carbon bushes had twisted in the spring - easy to replace and all working again.

Stock ? Not a clue - I guess some vans - goods in and out - Period 60's ish so I'm going to have to do some new research. The shunters: well none to be seen together The NB 0-4-0DH of course. I have a Class 14 (my third build - and I'll try to avoid all the errors on the last 2), another Sentinel :yawn: and a Taurus (I'm a bit in awe about building - I keep putting off but don't know why). I also have a Class 7 lying around somewhere that needs a new motor and a RTR Bachman 08 and :horror: a DCC Hornby 09 So ignoring any EWS interest there is/should be no problem with motive power. But just about all my stock is way too early (by about 40 years) so watch this space for questions.

Correct 23 in 1968 but they bought one more in 1969 (D9538) 20 went to NCB starting with D9531 in Jan 1968 (the first to be withdrawn Dec 1967 - other than just scrapped D9522 Dec 67) Class 14 Allocations

I hate to be one to contradict Wikipedia ...but Class 14 Allocations They were all withdrawn from BR service by 04/69 (and most quite a few months before that) None of them ever were BR allocated to Scotland. The furthest north they were allocated was Hull (50B) Most of them were sold on to the NCB and to British Steel (only 5 were immediately scrapped) D9524 was sent to BP Grangemouth 04.69 Two of the class were exported. Although I think it quite reasonable (if not probable) that some of the NCB and BS ones reached Scotland I think it is extremely unlikely in BR service. However the sell off to BS started in April 1968 (when the majority were withdrawn from BR traffic) So it would have been possible to have seen them "transported" to Scottish Steel works or pits at any date after that. As yet, I have no details of which loco went to which location (only if it was BS or NCB) other than D9524 and D9526.

Perhaps it is time to get on with that kit before even more come up on ebay ?

Just in case you couldn't http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/topic/3343-2010-challenge-rules/ go on enter please give plenty of detail of these points as they are constructed.

A quick thank you to those who seem to pop back to this blog everyday and are following despite all the yeas and nays in favour of and against these blogs. A special thanks to Michael Edge for putting up with all the criticism of his kit, yet still continuing to post useful hints. I have to add that this kit really does not take this length of time to build. I never build one kit at a time and especially when stopping to photograph and describe every step, there is even more delay. The only time schedule I have for this kit is Easter 2010 and I am well ahead of that at the moment. Having said that all is going well and your continued interest helps to spur me onwards and to keep the blog moving. The engine casing was formed in much the same way as the cab roof by rolling the top of the bonnet (middle plain section of the etch) using a 25mm tube on a mouse mat and then bending the sharper corners over a 1.5mm rod. The instructions suggest annealing the metal - I think this just not really needed in 4mm and with this part especially as there are half-etched lines to assist in a smooth bend. As with the cab roof a slight over bend helps the following steps. Because the sides are now complete this process results in no distorting along its length. The result should sit perfectly true on a flat surface. Remove the casing former [24], the fuel tank front [25] and the casing front [30] from the fret and tidy the edges. The former has 4 register holes that, in theory at least, will align to the cab front. Forget them, I tried but then remembered that we had to file off the bottom of the cab front to get it to fit over the half-etch in the baseplate. With this realism, it also dawned on me that the cab could be ever so slightly out of vertical and therefore not to use it as a datum line to attach the engine casing or the baseplate might not remain flat. Use the former to check the bends on the engine casing but do not solder in place yet. With the baseplate on a flat surface the engine casing was positioned around it and up against the cab front. With the slight over bend it should grip the edges of the baseplate. Note the deliberate etched indent along the edge fits over the base of the exhauster box making a precise fit. The casing was then soldered to the baseplate. I found that there was just sufficient space to reach in with my 25W Antex iron through the front of the casing and through the open fuel tank area. But it was not easy and I can see why, with a bigger iron, the method given in the instructions would be better followed. The casing was not soldered to the cab front at this time. Next the fuel tank [26] was removed from the fret and the tags tidied. We are warned in the instructions that one of the handrail holes is missing, so this needs to be drilled out as 0.4mm. This error and that of the recess on the cab front are only minor and may well be corrected on future production runs. The fuel tank was then also bent to shape using the 25mm tube and 1.5mm rod as for the cab roof and engine casing. The fuel tank front [25] was then soldered in place on the baseplate and to the back of the engine casing. This was possible through the front of the casing and from underneath. There remained some flex in the structure at this point as the cab was still not connected to the engine casing. However, that was about to change and to ensure that the baseplate remained flat on the footplate the whole assembly, baseplate, footplate and frames were bolted back together. The casing former was then soldered in place on the front of the cab and also soldered to the back edges of the engine casing. This locked the cab and engine casing into a rigid structure and so the superstructure can again be unbolted from the footplate. The formed fuel tank wrapper was then squeezed into place over the formers. This would have been easier if I had not already fitted the horns, but it was still possible. The fuel tank wrapper was then soldered in place on the formers and its bottom edge on the edge of the engine casing. This was best done from inside but it can get a bit messy as there is little room to manoeuvre the soldering iron. But to be honest I don't care what it looks like inside. The exhauster casing [27] was then folded up and fitted to the baseplate, followed by the top [28] and the end overlays [29] with the louvres at the top. .

There certainly is interest here - please continue with the updates. Any more details on stock?

Ah! now I understand - that really makes both my handles and hinges way over size

Sorry I thought they were half-etched. The louvres stand out from the door face. so I was thinking that the hinge could at least stand out to the same extent as the louvre. Perhaps not enough to be true to prototype but less of a problem than both using wire or struggling with the slots. I should probably had a go at opening out the slots. But as you saw I interpreted them differently at the time. A mistake on my part that I fully accept. Yes, I can see that point now I have gone through the fixing of engine casing to baseplate. Though doing it the way I am building it, I think is easier with no worry about locking the baseplate to the footplate and do as much detail work on the flat as possible.. Well at least an equal alternative. Doing it the way you have suggested in the instructions with the addition of the casing doors after attaching to the baseplate would, I think, be even more difficult as at least I had a flat surface to work on and the doors were only susceptible to movement / shakes of my hand. They would tend to drop into the holes whichever way. Of course there is still plenty of time for me to foul it up

for everything so far follow the link to RMWeb3.

Ah! Happy memories. the 2006 RMWeb 6sq ft Layout Challenge Whatever happened to the 2007, 2009 ... 2010 challenges ?

Someone asked: What does it now look like on the other side? well it did until a few minutes ago.

I guess my gripe was not really with the casing doors themselves in terms of a register. I just couldn't see why the holes were etched for them to fall into. They would have been easier to fit if the things hadn't kept dropping into the holes - ie. a flat side, no engine compartment holes. I originally tried this and found that the part would not fit through the slot either from the front or behind. I then interpreted - well I guessed - that they should be bent over. I guess I should have tried to open out the slot to make them slide through. Yes, definitely wrong now that I have done it but at this point I just do not have the will to remove them. I suppose what I'm saying is that I don't think they look THAT bad from a distance - and probably no worse than the handles - another difficult task. I think if I build another one of these I will go down the route of brass wire for the hinges and will make the handles from 0.2mm wire rather than 0.4mm. Would it not have been possible to etch the hinges on the doors themselves? Hindsight is wonderful.

Once again I am going to deviate slightly from the instructions. Why ask for instructions? I hear you cry out. Well sometimes the experience gained indicates there are more than one approach to constructing some parts and this is another example. You have seen with the cab that I prefer adding flat detail to etches while they are still on the fret, or at least flat on the table. I have found that it is easier to hold parts in place flat rather than vertical when they tend to slip out of alignment or you have to hold a part across a weak surface that is prone to distortion. I think the engine casing is just such an example. In the instructions, it is formed and built on the baseplate, the fuel tank wrapper and exhauster casing added before adding the casing door overlays. I shall proceed slightly differently. When removing the engine casing from the fret be very careful several of the tags (I think there too many) are positioned along edges that are themselves half-etched. The part is deceptively complex with holes for handrails hidden in bend lines, holes for casing door handles and slots for casing door hinges. This is in addition the half-etched edges and the edges with the baseplate not being completely square. So be very careful when filing off any tag remnant. The first thing to do is to punch out the rivet detail in the engine casing. The casing doors were carefully removed from the fret, one at a time, tidied and soldered in their respective positions on the engine casing. It is important to note that they are orientated in a particular direction and this is mimicked by their positions on the fret. They are quite difficult to align straight and to solder to the casing as there are no register lines and for some reason, that I cannot understand, there are holes etched out behind the doors. This means that only a very narrow land is left on which the half etched door has to be soldered. A very steady hand is required or they slide into the hole. First the larger doors [38] are fitted as they are easier to remember which way round, followed by the smaller doors at the bottom of the fuel tank [39]. A handy trick is to mark the top edge of these with a marker pen before removing them- though I have to admit I couldn't see any difference one way or the other. Next the small casing doors over the exhauster box are added [40, 40a]. They are not the same as the other small doors. The left leading door has a different raised square ventilator on it and is made from laminating parts [40a, 42 and 41] together over the same hole in the casing. Once again the arrow on the fret indicates which way is up. In case you are wondering where are parts 41 and 42? They are on one of the centre section cut-out of the baseplate. Yes, I know, it isn't perfect - but that is the problem with these doors - even against a steel rule soldering them straight is not easy and all the parallel lines show the slightest deviation. I then fitted the rainstrips [43] over the casing doors with the flange downwards. Another very challenging part to remove from the fret. These are worse than the cab window beading, (yes that is a Peco pin for comparison) as they are supposed to be straight. The next step taken was the fitting of the casing door hinges [60] which are fitted in the slots between the doors. Another problem here is that there are 10 casing doors yet only 18 hinges and 18 holes for handles. So one door has no hinges and one door has no handles. Examining the prototype photos I came to the conclusion that the two leading casing doors on the right side share their door handles, and the other large casing door shares its hinges. The hinges, understandably, are about the smallest item on the fret and the fret tag is in fact the tab to be used to pass into the slot etched for the hinge, so be generous when removing these tiny parts. They are also half-etched and can easily be twisted. I have to repeat there are only 18 - NO SPARES - so watch out your workshop floor will become a magnet for them and you will spend many frustrating hours on your hands and knees trying to look for them. They were soldered into the slots, soldering from behind and then bent over the respective door so that the half-etched side of the hinge faces outwards. The hinges on the doors next to the cab are particularly difficult as the slots only exist along the edge of the casing - a point noted earlier when filing the fret tags off this edge. The final step taken before bending the engine casing into shape was the fitting of the door handles made from bent 0.4mm wire (which I ran out of). Again it is neater to solder these from behind. Needless to say these took quite a bit of time and effort to complete. The back of the casing can then be filed clean of any protruding wire and tabs. At this point I began to doubt the wisdom of these hinges. They do look over size compared to photographs. I did try to insert them right into the slot but decided that was not the intention as they did not fit. If it was the intention the slots are undersized and anyway, I believe they would have been better represented by short lengths of wire. Looking at the built kit on the Judith Edge web site did not help as both the hinges and the handles appear to have been left off. The thought of removing them and replacing with lengths of wire does not appeal to me at this time. So what was the score? kitbuild = 16 carpet = 2 so the hinges next to the cab were left off anyway and I will try to replace them with brass wire imitations when the engine casing is complete and installed on the baseplate. .

Thanks Adam, Having acquired a copy of the second volume of Industrial Railways in Colour: South Wales (Michael Poulter), I can confirm the photo on p46 and is an interesting livery, though a pity it is side on. It does look very run down by that date. I am having some problem with the above in correlating the works numbers for the class. The caption for that photo indicates that the one in front with w/n 28027 was removed for preservation in September 1986. A nice find for that scot-rail image as well so I have added it to the list above.

Designing the cab floor attached to the frames allows the roof to be soldered on from the inside and still gives access for painting and glazing later. The roof [22] is supplied as that 4th fret and is half-etched across most of its surface leaving only the rain strips on each side. I am so used to having to add rain strips from flattened wire this seems a nice touch. However, the roof does need to be rolled/formed into shape. This is done by forming the large radius curve first by rolling it with the rain strips facing down and supported on something like a computer mouse mat, using a bar of about 25mm diameter. I use a cut from a curtain rail as the roller. Roll it so that the curve is slightly tighter than the curve on the cab front/back. The bends at the eaves are then formed by rolling round a rod of about 1.5mm diameter. These bends need to be set back from the edge of the roof by about 2.0mm using the rain strip to very gently pull the roof round this bend. If done correctly it will clip in place. However, remember this is a half-etch and thin, it is very easy to distort the roof especially at the corners. The roof is now soldered in position aligning the rain strip with the half-etched recess on the top of the cab sides and flush with the top of the cab front/back. There is very little if any overlap at the front or back of the cab and the roof should be filed flat to these surfaces. The other cab detailing parts are resin and so should be left off until later when the soldering iron is put away and everything is cleaned ready for painting. They all will require glueing to the cab floor. .

I'm still in awe that you managed to get the chassis running at all - even more so after taking it apart and reworking it. I am also surprised at the motor choice - a bit on the powerful side for this lightweight.

This comes with all my usual reservations on hand drawn layout plans and the fact they never seem to take account of reality (it is easy to draw a point sharper and in less space than it really occupies and also to totally ignore track widths and clearances. My first thoughts: - what a lot of hidden track - that is going to be inaccessible to re-rail the inevitable derailment. - what scale and room dimensions? - are you aware how wide an 8 road fiddleyard is and how long the point ladder at either end is? - on the left is a single circle raising the track by one level - do you realise how big that needs to be to have a gradient that a model loco can climb? - other than watching trains go round I am a bit lost on the reason for the layout.