halfwit

Thanks for that Adam, I shall be ordering a set for one of my Airfix builds. I've half a mind to build the other with dumb buffers as per the South Hetton locos.

Paul.

Thanks Mark.

I have a body detailing etch on order (along with some of Robert's new contractors waggons), so there's more modifications to be done yet. Its all good practice for when I start the Airfix pair that I have lying around. (I have the chassis and various parts ready and waiting).

The correct sized boiler fittings, especially the filler, improves the look of the boiler top, important when you consider that our models tend to be viewed from above.

Paul.

Those are lovely coaches, there's just something so nice about early 4 and 6 wheelers.

You could almost convert me to pre-grouping GWR modelling...

Paul.

Thanks Mikkel.

Its getting there, and I'm pleased with progress so far. I think that the scale coupling rods make the biggest difference along with decent wheels. The boiler fittings are good but unless you study the prototype you wouldn't notice that the Dapol mouldings are underscale.

There's no overall scheme I'm afraid, I do just build for the joy of it. The great thing about not having a layout is the freedom that it gives me when it comes to building stock as I don't have to worry about a particular item fitting in. (Coming soon, a GVT horse drawn tramway coach...)

Paul.

Look forwards to seeing your J94/Hunslet soon!

You've inspired me to get it back on the workbench! I've just carved off the rather undersized dome and tiddly little waterfiller and replaced them with RT Models items. Lots more work to do still but I'll be posting an update soon.

Paul.

I told you it was easy! The Austerity looks very nice, a real workhorse. The second photo shows the subtle pre-shading (something which I'm yet to experiment with) to good effect.

Now I really must get mine finished!

Paul.

They really do fall together don't they! I built one about 20+ years ago, still my only piece of 7mm stock.

For the record its a diagram 1/102 mineral.

Paul.

It looks even better without the stormy background (its not that i didn't like it, it just distracted from the modelling) - thanks for editing.

Prieser make a HO vampire, and a grim reaper...

Paul.

That looks superb, really atmospheric, but can we see a pic. of it without the distracting background please?

Paul.

Eileen's sell lead.

Paul.

Nick, you're a brave man to take that on! Good luck!

Paul.

Thanks for the comments and 'likes'

43 - its one of A1s earlier kits.

Julia - the roof beacon has a loose wire, and the site's sparky is on a tea break... I know that you'd do clever things with LEDs and DCC but I'm happy to leave it as is.

It will be weathered one day, when I've plucked up sufficient courage. If I was painting it now I'd probably have a go at pre-shading, possibly using a mid brown rather than the usual black under the yellow. But for now I'll just enjoy the ex-works finish.

Paul.

Perhaps the missing something in the market square is people? There's always someone going about their business, or just loitering, in the centre of town.

Paul.

I'd agree with Mikkel - superb.

I like the idea of trains just being an excuse for modelling, for so many the trains come first and modelling a poor second.

Paul.

Be sure to start a thread on yours RJL, it might just give me the impetus to finish mine, which is sitting in a box surrounded by RT Models replacement parts.

Paul.

The Pugbash does indeed look the part, a very nice model. On a loco like this coal would have been carried in the cab in bunkers either side of the firebox.

On painting - a coat of varnish should help blend in the re-touching. Red paint doesn't cover well - it would have been worth painting the bufferbeams first after priming (I'd use red oxide), then masking them off before painting the rest of the loco. (See, we do read your blog).

Paul.

Adam, I think that you are right. My thought was that the wagons might be secured to the track when tipping sticky loads like clay, but as the 'steps' are behind the lever gaurd and quite flimsy in relation to the rest of the wagon the brake stick theory makes far more sense. And anyway, Hudson's designed these wagons to be tipped easily one manned and I'm sure that they would have taken sticky loads into consideration.

I was just going to secure the body with a dab of epoxy after painting. Or leave them loose to rattle around when being shunted!

Paul.

Thanks for the comments, and indeed for the 'likes'. Knowing that these posts are well received makes the time spent updating this blog worthwhile.

Paul - complex, perhaps if you're used to plastic wagon kits. Yes there's a lot of parts to be soldered together, but producing a wagon like this in any other medium just wouldn't work, there's nothing better than sheet metal and channel sections to represent sheet metal and channel sections! Difficult, no. So far everything has fitted together nicely.

Mikkel - these wagons were delivered from Hudson's factory by rail, the body had to be locked in position and special permission obtained for a one-off journey. Which means that if there's a mine/colliery/foundry/quarry near Farthing and your modelers licence is up to date you could possibly get away with running one or two into the Sidings...

Mark - yes I'm definetely getting my moneys worth, I'm thoroughly enjoying building these!

Paul.

Thanks for the comments, and the 'likes'.

Thinking about it, it occurs to me that having the pick ups acting on the tops of the wheel treads might attract more dirt, Paul?

Yes, that's a possibility. There's not a lot of room for a wider pick-up, I did try 2mm strip but then I had problems fitting the wire to the motor, which I've run between the pick-ups and the chassis. If it is a problem I could solder pads to the ends of the phos. bronze strips to act on the flange edge, but for now I'll wait and see how it runs.

Paul.

The axles will be 1/8" diameter, therefore you'll need 1/8" steel rod not 3mm for checking alignment.

Paul.

Thanks Arthur and David. (And thanks to all those that have pressed 'like'.)

This vice Arthur, which has turned out to be a very good purchase although I have had to fettle the jaws with a file. Thread here.

David. I recently purchased a couple of books published by the Moseley Railway Trust, one on the history of Robert Hudson Ltd, the other purely on Hudson's n.g. 'Rugga' skip wagons. Hudson recommended that the bucket capacity of the loader to be 1/3 the capacity of the wagon, to prevent overloading, otherwise they recommended use of a filling hopper. A bit more about these books on my other blog. I have an Corgi Ruston Bucyrus face shovel which, with a bit of reworking, would sit nicely with these wagons.

Paul.

There was also an iron mink done as a Southern gunpowder van, need to loose the end vents as I recall.

 

John.

I've not seen that one John. I do have a Ferrocrete and a GN van knocking about unbuilt.

Paul.

Alan, do you mean the patches of dye seen on sheeps backs? When a ram is introduced to a flock it has a pad attached under its breast which leaves a mark on the back of the ewes that its 'serviced', this has been going on for many years. Reddle was once used, one of Thomas Hardy's books (The Return of the Native) features a 'reddle man' who travelled form town to town supplying farmers with the red ochre dye.

Paul.

DW, I think this one cost me about

The grass looks a little too long for a caravan site to be honest (sorry!), most keep the grass pretty short, and I'm sure that would have been the case in the period that you're modelling.

It might be an idea to have a few caravan sized patches of light, discoloured grass where a caravan has sat for a week.

Also, caravanners are mostly neat freaks and tend to park in nice orderly rows.

Paul, who prefers a Tentipi and thinks that sleeping in aluminium boxes is a bit weird...