halfwit

Neatly done Ian. Well worth the effort.

Looking forward to seeing it lined out.

Paul.

The Peckett does indeed look good (I climbed over one with a tape rule recently) and I really like the idea of a 2mm City of Truro (I assume thats what that GWR cab front is for).

Paul.

Ebay is a bad place full of things that you don't need but really want! (Jidenco Bass beer tank/vans kits...)

Paul.

I'm pretty sure that I have some tool steel, however its 130 miles away in a lock up along with my engineering tools and my lathe (which needs refurbishing).

Paul.

Thanks for the comments.

Pete - the chassis is 42mm long, if you thinks thats small take a look at Missy's 2mm scale narrow gauge stock!

Jan - hopefully if I share my mistakes it might save others from falling into the same traps. Although it does make me look like a halfwit... And I wouldn't want anyone thinking that I'm some kind of kit building expert!

I have 2 Hold & Folds - the 2" 'Bug' and the 5.5" version. I tried both when folding the inner frames but neither was really up to the job. However if I'd deepened the fold lines (until there is a witness mark on the other side of the metal) in the first place then I'd have had success. This would have weakened the fold but a fillet of solder would have restored any lost strength (I tend to re-enforce folds with solder anway). I do tend to lightly run a square file along fold lines as a matter of course but in this case it didn't make a lot of difference. The H+F is an excellent tool but being aluminimum will flex slightly under heavy use. I may yet buy myself some GW Models bending bars.

I've examined the vice that you've linked to on Eileen's stand and it is indeed a nice high quality item. At the time I coudn't afford it so bought a cheaper multi-angle vice. One day I'll buy myself one when feeling flush, after all good quality tools last forever if looked after.

Paul.

Thanks Rich. These Ratio vans are a joy to put together. I must build some in BR livery one day.

Paul.

The next installment will be sometime next week Nick, I'm rather behind with this build due to falling ill last week, which I'm still recovering from. There's nothing to be gained from trying to model when I'm not feeling 100%.

Paul.

If I were to ever build a big roundy roundy job I may just borrow the season module approach.

Paul.

A very clever idea. I'm impressed!

Paul.

Right, detailed build it is then. I often worry about boring people by putting too much detail into a blog entry... but then you don't have to read it!

Jan - as for a detailed interior there's the small problem of the cab being full of motor...

CK - Judith Edge and High Level working together like this does make perfect sense, lets hope that these two carry on working together on future projects.

Paul.

Thanks for the comments, always appreciated.

Don - you're right, I do need to visit Statfold, if only to have a good look at the Hudswell Badgers there. I have the new RT Models kit you see...

Julia - at the moment there is no bigger picture, just a display cabinet in the dining room. I have no room to build a layout and if I did I'd probably never finish it. Even my 2011 challenge layout has stalled.

Paul.

Thanks Pete.

No plans for making the beacon flash I'm afraid, I know that its possible but its beyond my current skill level.

Paul.

Always ready for a new challenge Robert!

Thanks Pete and Peter.

For glazing I was going to use the time-honoured technique of going in from the underside with tweezers and swearing!

Paul.

Thanks Tim.

Its nice to build something simple for a change!

Paul.

Thanks Pete.

Interesting idea using chips of solder inside the body - I'll be trying that at some stage.

Paul.

Thanks Pete.

You're close, its 47.5mm long.

I was a bit worried about putting too much heat near the 14BA nuts and having them come unsoldered!

Paul.

Looks like an early restoration project heading from the scrapyard to a group of eager but inexperienced (this would have been the dawn of the preservation movement) enthusiasts!

Paul.

Thanks Pete and Frank (and all those that pressed 'Like This')..

Although I must say that the only things that I'm the master of are the dogs! And they have selective deafness...

Paul.

Bill Bedford buffer height gauge: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/428/entry-4747-bill-bedford-buffer-height-jig/

Recommended.

Paul.

I can't see why the 3-links need to be fitted before the buffer beams are glued in place, although its wise to make sure that the coupling will fit into the slot at this stage. I use a .5mm drill in a pin chuck as a file to open up the slot then fit the couplings at the end after the wagon is painted. This means that paint is kept away from the links, taking away the risk of gumming things up. Couplings are often blackened as they come, if not a dip in metal back sorts them out.

Paul.

I've always had problems with red paint. My latest 48DS has red bufferbeams (Humbrol Signal Red, applied yesterday), I undercoated the bufferbeams white before spraying them red which worked pretty well.

Paul.

Thanks for the comments. Its been a long journey but worthwhile!

Looking forward to your next project now

Already started, a lighthearted plastic kit for a change.

Paul.

vac brakes on a summers wagon?

Remember that some Summers wagons finished their lives with ICI and were fitted with vacuum brakes taken from scrapped ICI hoppers. This one will be finished as an ICI wagon in 1990's condition, luckily the kit comes with the correct roller bearing bogies as roller bearings were fitted to these wagons later in their lives.

Paul.

...do I go crude or accurate????

Accurate.