halfwit

Rivetting etched kits is very straightforward really, just locate the tip of the drop hammer in the half etched hole, raise the weight and let it drop! I rest the workpiece on a bit of .040" plasticard. You do need to make sure that the upper limit nuts are set correctly so you only punch out a rivet, not bend the workpiece. Start low and move the limit nuts upwards until you get the desired effect. Gets a bit boring after a while though...

The tool can be seen in the top of the last photo.

Paul.

Hi John.

It is a reduced version of the Warren Shephard kit as you say. Does the hopper body on the 7mm version need sectioning as the 4mm one does?

I'll be taking my time and doing a lot of checking and rechecking before soldering the hopper up solid!

Paul.

I'd look at finishing off the Ivatt and the Beattie, it would be a shame to start something new when there's half finished kits knocking about.

Paul.

Thanks for the comments.

The hopper is at the 'sitting on the bench whilst I look at it' stage, cut from the etch but still flat. Sometimes it helps if I spend time looking at a part forming a plan before diving in. I'll try and make a start on it tomorrow.

Paul.

More work done this morning, and I should get more done on it tomorrow. Much swearing involved...

Expect another blog update by the end of the weekend.

Paul.

I've changed the original title though. It occurred to me that war is not an appropriate topic for a bit of light amusement.

I'm not so sure about it not being an appropiate topic, the war did happen and it brought so many changes. If a little bit of light amusement, sensitively done, reminds us of one of the worst periods in European history then that, to me, can only be a good thing.

Paul.

Thanks Rich.

I wonder if the etch is just a straightforward reproduction of the 7mm version or if it has been tweaked in some areas? I shall ask next time I see Roxey at an exhibition.

Paul.

Rivets are proud on the half-etched solebar and hopper overlays but have to be punched out on the frame top plates and the hopper body itself.

Paul.

I reckon that the stiffness comes fom the rather coarse pitch of the thread, a finer pitch would I'm sure smooth things out.

Paul.

The hand vice is unbranded I'm afraid Mikkel. I picked it up at an exhibition last year but I can't even remember whose stand I bought it from. Its reasonably good quality, apart from the wingnut being rather stiff, and, most importantly, the jaws are smooth.

Eileens stock a similar vice: http://www.eileensemporium.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=eny_fly_default.tpl&product_id=4971&category_id=137&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=9 . I haven't had my hands on one so I can't vouch for quality.

Paul.

A full rake would indeed be impressive Michael. Feel free to ask any questions about the build.

Rich - I reckon that my RSU will prove to be rather usefull whilst putting this together - lots of overlays to solder in place!

Paul.

Photo 2 - So simple yet so detailed. Wonderfull. (The rest ain't bad either!).

This is what I love about the blogs - so many different ways to use the format.

Paul.

Thanks.

I've been itching to make a start on this for a while but wanted to wait until my workbench was a bit clearer. I've been sat reading and re-reading the instructions this evening ready to start soldering tomorrow. Should be a very impressive wagon once finished.

Paul.

A very impressive kit!

Coming along nicely Nick.

Paul.

BlackRat - I wish I'd thought of that! I obviously don't spend enough time in pound shops.

Frank and CK - I haven't had any serious splatter issues, yet!

The spatula is indeed a most usefull item, and the main reason for this blog entry as its not an obvious tool to look out for.

Paul.

Thanks Mikkel.

They are indeed fascinating waggons, and full marks to Robert (RT Models) for bringing out the kit (apparently the masters were a rather difficult to make!). I'm hoping that he could be persuaded to expand his wagon range...

Paul.

I like to read how someone does an item, more often than not youcan add a little of thier method into yours, refining it all the time.

So do I, and that's the great thing about being part of a forum such as this one, exchanging ideas and methods and learning from each other.

I'm pleased that you've found it interesting Nick, I do wonder if my modelling subjects are a little too obscure sometimes!

I'll post another update once they're painted and lettered.

Paul.

Mercian do a Metropolitan Pecket (about halfway down the page): http://modelrailways.tv/standard_gauge/industrial.htm

Not sure if its the type you're after though.

Paul.

Thanks Mike.

Just a little more to do and its ready for the paint shop.

Paul.

I'd seen you're 4mm cardboard stock on here before, absolutely lovely!

Ideally I'd like to build the Seaham Lewin to accompany these, Impetus did a kit but... There are plans to build something appropiate though, it just may take a while.

Paul.

Thanks, they are coming together nicely.

Brakes are only fitted on one side thankfully!

Paul.

Thanks Mikkel.

I really ought to build a loco with the correct buffing gear (either big dumb buffers or a second set of buffers fitted at a lower height) to shunt them around with....

Paul.

Thanks.

They are 4mm scale, EM gauge.

Paul.

Well, I hope that you get a full workshop set up soon because I'd like to see what ideas you come up with when you have access to machine tools!

Paul.

Interesting idea. Would it be possible though, when drilling the buffer housing, to drill the hole 'blind', not all the way through both sides of the housing, enough for the wire to locate in both sides of the housing but only leaving one hole to fill? (I hope that makes sense!)

Paul.