halfwit

There's an interesting standard gauge pugbash tram engine in a photo on the cover of an awfull scenery* book that I like the look of which is made from two kits, double cabbed similar to a LNER Y10 Sentinel. Like yours it has open backed cabs. One day I mean to make my own version as a lighthearted project.

Paul.

*One of a couple of books that I keep simply because they're so bad.

Pugbashing - there's a controversial subject if ever there was one in n.g. circles!

Nice job though, and the open water filler is a nice touch. The new cab front suits the loco well, but I have to say that the rivets do look a touch too large (sorry!).

Paul.

I'd agree with Mikkel, it does look good. You do need decent photos when modelling dry stone walls as there's a large variation in styles as well as colouring according to local materials and building styles. For example, here in the Peak District we have walls made from gritstone and from limestone, which are markedly different.

Paul.

Looks interesting.

Hopefully we'll see a Judith Edge Hunslet appearing at some stage...

Paul.

Jan - I can't fault the design so far. As for the builder, well he's nowt special...

More details on 1/108 brake gear please - I have a few Airfix minerals which only need brakes fitted before finishing.

Paul.

Pleased to hear that your finding it interesting Paul, I do wonder if I go into too much detail sometimes...

Yes, those etches are as good as they look! Only the bare minimum of fettling has been necessary so far, and thats mostly been filing off cusp. I have opened out the fold lines with a square file as n/s is quite hard to bend compared to brass.

Paul.

The chassis is rigid with no provision for springing or compensation, but then springing/compensation shouldn't really be necessary with a wheelbase of only 30mm, at least not in EM. Turned brass bearings are supplied, I just haven't fitted them yet.

Paul.

I would recommend having a look at High Level's range of gearboxes, there's bound to be one that suits.

And that crane looks rather good so far!

Paul.

Thanks Mark.

I would usually use 2 different temperature solders on an assembly like this, 188 for structural work and 145 for detailing. However, as nickel silver is much nicer to solder that brass, conducting heat away quicker and being generally cleaner, I've stuck to 188 for the whole assembly. Which makes for neater soldering as 188 flows better than 145. I used small chips of solder cut from solder wire, placed on the job where needed, which meant that the solder only went where I wanted it to go, keeping cleaning to a minimum.

Paul.

Thanks for the comments, and the 'likes'.

Mikkel - rivet counters may not be popular but we should be thankfull for those that get the small details right, because if the designer has taken care of the small details then there's a good chance that the rest of the kit/model will stand close scrutiny.

DD - if it looks half as good as Adam's build then I'll be happy.

Paul.

Quote from Paul; I reckon that a stooped figure struggling up the road towards the cottage looking decidedly miserable would be quite apt given the amount of snow on the ground!

 

... sounds like a personal experience which has left its' mark on you Paul?

 

 

Not a chance Marc - I love snow!

Paul.

In some cases cab openings can be chamfered to give the illusion of scale thickness. Iain Rice's 'Whitemetal Locos' book (Wild Swan) is well worth picking up.

Paul.

I find it best to use the rivetter on a firm surface, like the kitchen worktop, using a piece of .040" plasticard under the etch as an anvil (some modellers use an offcut of lead).

Paul.

Thanks for the comments (and of course to all that 'liked' this entry).

Adam - I wasn't sure whether to cover this build in detail or not as you've already done a fine job of describing it. But part of the reason I write these entries is to refer back to them later, and I eventually want to build a rake of these.

Jan - gravity rivetters are nice and easy to use on etched kits where the rivets are half etched once you've set the tool up - hence my note on how much 'drop' I've set mine on for this kit. Mine came from Eileens. And as for justifying buying one of these kits - you're a modeller, you're allowed a certain amount of licence!

Paul.

Thanks Mikkel (and everyone who 'Liked' this entry - always appreciated).

The bottle is actually Strong Liquid Flux. This is available from Eileens Emporium and is 12% phosphoric acid, most other fluxs are 9%. I find that the stronger solution makes soldering that little bit easier. I always clean my work after every soldering session using Cif and a Tesco Value toothbrush so I'm not worried about any stray flux damaging the model afterwards.

Paul.

It looks like it has a full depth hull - do you intend cutting it down to a waterline model?

Paul.

Many years from now...

"Ah, that's just what I need" he said, spotting a rather old and battered GWR coach in a sale.

After getting it home he decides that the roof is a bit wonky and decides a replacement is in order.

"I'll whip this odd plastic former off as well whilst I'm at it".

"What the... some clots only gone and glued a figure on a toilet in there - and they couldn't even be bothered to paint it!"

Paul.

You suprise me Julia, but I'll bet that's where the problem lies. As you say leaving the axle hole to be drilled after tyre fitting could be the way to wobble free running.

Paul.

Just out of interest Julia, did you turn the printed wheel centres true before fitting the tyres?

Paul.

It's nice to follow each others work, but take mine with a grain of salt as the approaches are sometimes a bit half-baked :-)

If it works and you're happy with the result I cannot see how your approach can be half-baked.

Interestingly you say that these coaches are brass and have been glued together - many would say that's a half-baked approach but as they're still in one piece after many years of use it just shows that soldering isn't always the only way to join two pieces of metal. (If anyone wants me I'll be in the corner wearing a tin hat!)

Paul.

... I'm not too sure how to set up my account to receive notifications of comments to my blog.

When writing (or editing) a blog entry you should see a 'Post options' on the right hand side bar with 'Follow this entry' below it. Clicking on the box next to 'Follow this entry' will set up notifications for you.

Or just click on 'Follow this entry' at the top...

Once you could recieve notification of new comments via email but that seems to have dissappeared.

Paul.

I'm not sure Brian, at a guess I'd say some kind of plaster with a stippled surface painted with a mix of oranges, browns and yellows? Painting and weathering are not my strong points I'm afraid. There is some nice work in RT Models gallery.

Paul.

I do use superglue as well, both gel and normal depending on application. I did consider it for this task but I wanted to be able to adjust the position of the weights before the glue set.

I would imagine that superglue would work well for attaching metal parts to a resin body, I've used it to attach resin parts to brass models in the past.

Paul.

I used Alaldite Rapid, which is the only type of epoxy that I use, for fitting the balance weights in place Harry. I've never had a problem using that particular type of glue, as long as all of the parts to be glued are clean.

Paul.

Thanks for the comments (and the 'likes').

I'm glad that you're enjoying my ramblings Harry, I try hard to make my entries as clear and informative as possible.

Paul.