halfwit

I find it best to use the rivetter on a firm surface, like the kitchen worktop, using a piece of .040" plasticard under the etch as an anvil (some modellers use an offcut of lead). Paul.

Thanks for the comments (and of course to all that 'liked' this entry). Adam - I wasn't sure whether to cover this build in detail or not as you've already done a fine job of describing it. But part of the reason I write these entries is to refer back to them later, and I eventually want to build a rake of these. Jan - gravity rivetters are nice and easy to use on etched kits where the rivets are half etched once you've set the tool up - hence my note on how much 'drop' I've set mine on for this kit. Mine came from Eileens. And as for justifying buying one of these kits - you're a modeller, you're allowed a certain amount of licence! Paul.

This is an etched kit for a Hudson side tipping wagon, of a type used extensively in the mining and quarrying industries for conveying spoil. The kit is etched nickel silver and comes with whitemetal buffers and turned brass bearings, wheels can be supplied at extra cost. Instructions cover 6 sides of A4. Before I go any further I should mention Adam's excellent thread on this kit. I'm going to go into my usual level of detail about this build, unless anyone seriously objects! I enjoy writing up my builds, and often refer back to entries when building similar kits. References: Industrial Wagons An Introduction, David Monk Steel, IRS. Robert Hudson Ltd., Alan J. Haigh, Moseley Railway Trust. Modelling Further Aspects of the Coal Industry, Rob Johnson, Book Law Publications. Excellent photo on page 50. Industrial Steam In Action, Roger Siviter, Great Bear Publishing. Colour photos on pages 31 and 46. Industrial Steam, Ian Allan (publisher). Good colour photo on page 55 of a Hudson wagon fitted with handwheel operated brakes. RailModel Digest 6 - Tim Shackleton on building the long-unavailable Chilton Ironworks kit. To start with here's a photo of the etch, note that it has been redesigned since Adam built his and now includes coupling hooks and draw plates, something which I feel that every kit should include; Note that there's two chassis frames, one for OO and the other for EM and 18.83. The first job was to punch out the rivets on the body, I did this whilst it was still attached to the etch, using a gravity tool (note to self - 18mm drop). It would help if kit designers would include some half-etched dimples on a spare section of etch for setting up the tool. High Level already do this. Here's the body, one edge has been folded already; And folded up and soldered together (188 degree solder); There's really nothing to say about folding the body up, apart from to say that the fit is excellent! That's as far as I've got so far. Paul.

Again HobbyBoss make a 1:72 kit - but they are normally about £130 - £140! There are some on ebay.

1:72 scale railgun kit from HobbyBoss.

Thanks Mikkel (and everyone who 'Liked' this entry - always appreciated). The bottle is actually Strong Liquid Flux. This is available from Eileens Emporium and is 12% phosphoric acid, most other fluxs are 9%. I find that the stronger solution makes soldering that little bit easier. I always clean my work after every soldering session using Cif and a Tesco Value toothbrush so I'm not worried about any stray flux damaging the model afterwards. Paul.