57xx

It looks very much like the copper cap on the chimney has also been buffed up.

I've done this a few times myself. I've got an OR Toad, a macaw and a 4200 amonst others, all in BR livery from the bargain bins (so much for being more popular) , because i knew I'd be hacking them about.

Funnily enough, fitting an outer skirt to the afflicted side is on the cards for this summer, I hope I have caught it in time. Hopefully it will have the double effect of keeping the leaf litter off the joist and keeping it dry. I fitted a gutter to that side many years ago which helped reduce the amount of water falling to the floor but with the intensity of rains storms these days it needs more assistance.

Give it another 10 years. It's the rain landing on the pad that the joists are in direct contact with that's the issue (in my case 1 ton of Type1, sand and slabs). The underneath of my >20yr old workshop is dry, sure enough. The outer floor joists however are starting to succumb to some rot where they are are exposed to the weather, despite lots of creosoting. Having a lot of leaf litter to contend with doesn't help either.

Ah ok, the S prefix had me thinking these were post nationalisation livery. As others were also questioning on the link you sent, I didn't realise the SR dropped the R on their wartime livery.

Yes, I get that which end of the slip is being operated to form the crossover, it's on the diagram. 😉 It was the visualisation of the blades leading into the yard I was missing. Put on some better specs and it dawned on me, I'm getting it now. As an operational thing, what safety measures would be in place to prevent a movement from the loop (moving right to left) across the cross over if the hand points are set incorrectly? Is that the shunting signal?

Ah, Rule #1. 🙂 I'm not interested in them myself, I was just curious on the livery choice.

I'm afraid I'm being very thick here. Surely if you set the facing point to going straight on to the goods yard and it is linked to the rhs part of the slip to act as a crossover to the loop, you'll only ever be able to go to the loop (assuming someone has manually set the lhs slip blades in the right direction)? Setting the lever for the rhs slip to be heading in to the yard would set the facing point in to the platform.

Does ANTB run post 1948?

The "pair of points" you have labelled on the left have got a hand operated point in between them, so maybe I'm missing how they can be operate as a pair for the crossover? I don't see how you can operate the double slip in conjunction with a 3rd point for the purpose described. Say set the left most point to go straight on to the goods yard, you can't then have the right side of the slip being tied in to it to set the route for the run around loop.

One of the problems that is often run into, IMHO, is that we start with a flat baseboard, lay the track and then try and add the landscape in afterwards, where as in reality, the railway was put in to the existing landscape. This can lead to some quite awkward looking scenery on layouts. I remember having this issue on my first layout with the discrepancy in height between the front of the station (land side) vs the goods yard. It never got resolved, the layout got scrapped when I had to move out. Looking at your plan, I feel like the entrance to the goods yard, may need some consideration. If I have interpreted the "Slope down" part correctly, this would have a slope in two directions to get level with the far shed road and the front of the shed. That would be a nasty off camber turn for any vehicle. Maybe you could do a loading dock at the end of the shed road (brown lines)so everything at the right hand end is at the higher level with the slop in one direction towards the front of the shed. The carriage loading dock won't need a traditional buffer stop and probably doesn't need to be as long as you have it (maybe half the length?), adding a bit more track on that spur. The end of the run around spur closest to the front may not need a full size buffer stop either when you consider the road in front of it (green line) is at the same height as the carriage dock. It's very reminiscent of Barnstaple Victoria Road. Hope this is constructive for your thoughts.

I presume this is the same pair of carriages that we saw early last year?

I know the name of the Torrey Canyon but it was before I was born. The Amaco Cadiz was the first one I was old enough to recall. I looked up the Torrey Canyon: That ship not want to go down!

You have a strange concept of pennies.

https://www.1stlinedefence.co.uk/news/uxo-related-incidents-in-germany-and-austria-over-the-past-two-decades/

That's only fair since we do that for them for all the unexploded ordinance we dropped over there. 😉

Better still, mount it on wooden batons that are on the concrete pad. That way when the batons inevitably rot, you stand a chance to replace them, whereas when (not if) the actual floor joists in contact with wet concrete rot, that's the structure on it's way to being screwed.

Yes, triples with 120* cranks are notoriously smooth. Parallel twins usually have a bad rocking couples. Even firing orders are not always desired, think V4 "big bang" 2 strokes.

If you're thinking IC engines, Steam engines are neither 4 strokes or 2 strokes, they are in fact 1 strokes! Steam is injected either side of the piston to move it in each direction.

Good choice. I had a set as per your first post and the arms broke in under a year. I now have a headband type of the same as AndrueC posted a link to. Way way better and I can wear it with my regular specs, much easier to use.

Most "modelling" consumables are just that. 50ml modelling MEK? £7. Generic butanone/MEK 500ml, £8.99. Microsol, 28ml, ~£7. Butyl glycol* (99%, needs a lot of diluting) 1000ml, £10. Microset, 28ml, £7. White Vinegar from Asda. You get the drift. I have got a bottle of clear PVA from The Works, not tried it as glue 'n' glaze though but it has held glazing in place nicely. I'm sure EVA can be had at a decent rate. *Edit: Butyl glycol is also the key component of Vallejo thinners. 1l would probably last a life time with the amount it needs diluting (down to about 25%).

Yes, lots of places trading on eBay have it, in varying dilutions.

So white spirits and enamel thinners basically. Nothing particularly deadly, just things a lot of modellers will already be using and can take the usual precautions.

I use that phrase at work a lot, usually when my mind goes blank and I have to check something with a colleague, even though it's something I might have been doing for years. 🙈

@MrWolf Wolfie, Here's some extra detail pics. It's easier to see in the flesh, the colour differences are washed out with the camera - but - to get some area to glue the brake lever to the inside of the solebar, I had to add a couple of small bits of microstrip behind it, otherwise the only gluing point is the thing lower lip of the solebar. The step hangers have a nasty ridge in them where the mould is slightly misaligned. By the time I'd file it flat to get a good glue surface, then filed the other side flat because I'd done the wrong side It was very thin so some strengthening microstrip was added to it. When it comes to mounting the steps, note the bracket moulded on the inside of the solebar, this is supposed to be the top part of the step bracket on the prototype so that's what you line them up to. For the long step boards, there is a fair bit of detail that needs to be removed to get them to sit right - rivets and the bottom of the moulded bracket just mentioned. It's fairly easy to do with the tip of a sharp scalpel.