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Deleted: didn't finish reading the thread.

The side stanchions and buffers look to be N2 to me. I think you may be right about the right hand most wagon too, one of the tell-tales of the N4 is that they had 12" deep solebars as opposed to 10" on other diagrams.

More progress on the Fruit D. The buffers are looking a whole heap better thanks to Lanarkshire Models. Work then moved on to the brake gear. The levers, V hangers and brake rods were all drilled out to take 0.7mm brass wire and then the whole lot threaded together. I then realised there is no vac cylinder lever, so knocked one up quickly from scrap brass. Upon looking at the drawings in the kit and then in Atkins et al, I also realised there is also rodding missing between the two cross shafts at each end of the brake gear. As it is, a lever will only apply the 2 brake shoes at the relevant end. I'm torn between trying to find more suitable brass strip or file it under CBA.

I wonder if I should get Railtech to do a G4S livery for one? Found them where I left them, in the little baggie on the workbench (along with a couple of other empty bags, so nearly missed them). They are now safely stuck on the CC7.

It's not your fault at all, Chris. If anyone's, it would be mine for not checking on ordering, caveat emptor and all that. I'd still have ordered them anyway for all the branding and numbers. As I'd already got some additional 16" lettering in the order too, it wasn't an issue. 🙂 Thanks for the brake handle offer. I know I put them somewhere safe... Famous last words. I'll be in touch if they don't turn up.

An update on the CC7 - I ordered decals from Railtec for the CC7 and went ahead to tart it up. It was only then I spotted they just supply the 25" lettering on the sheet which is too early for me. Luckily several other sheets had dropped in my basket whilst ordering the CC7 decals so I had some spare 16" G W letters to apply. The end result is below. The roof has had a first wash of dirt and some woodwork showing through on the steps. The body now needs some weathering too. Just noticed the brake handles are still missing. I hope I can find them!!

If you do go for one Mikkel, pick one of the later kits. Some of the earlier ones are not as crisp and underframes not very well detailed. Overall though, I'd probably put them at #1 spot above Cambrian and Coopercraft.

I think you'll get as many suggestions as responses on here. I've got a Harder & Steenbeck Silverline as my posh airbrush. I also use the cheap Chinese one that came with my compressor. they both give good results. The H&S is much easier to clean and feels nicer to use, but as far as the end result on wagons, both do the job well. It all depends on your budget really.

That's a nice choice of prototype Corbs. I've been slacking in building up my fleet of GWR opens, I have a disproportionate amount of vans, and wagons from other regions, so a couple of these will be a welcome addition.

It must have been before braking zone then while he was still a couple of cars length behind Prost, as he didn't actually take Prost until turning into the Melbourne hairpin, he was side by side in the braking zone. Senna, Prost and Hill were in a train on the exit.

It's been 10 years since this was announced and people haven't got the patience to wait another week or two. Give the guys a break!

Are you sure that is lap 1? He was right with Prost on the approach to Melbourne and stuffed Prost up the inside. Either way, bloody cool pic to have taken. 😊

Well technically it's the bits between Hollywood and the Old Hairpin. 😊 The long gentle right hander after Redgate is Hollywood. That then merges into the sharper right at the entrance to Craner, then left and then jiggle right again before Old Hairpin.

Also bloody good fun to drive and ride!! First time was in my old Escort Mk iii when I <ahem> accidentally turned right whilst driving out of the midfield spectating area after a BTCC event. After 1 cautious lap with me and my mates in the car, I managed to find the correct exit at Redgate. 😇 I then had more official laps at a couple of the old Yamaha Owners Festivals, this time nailing the bike round the track. Awesome fun overtaking other bikes down Craner Curves!

Some more pics I've had stashed for this very purpose. 😊

Good to see you back, Nick. Have you tried fitting the narrow scroll irons from the accessory pack?

Bump

Out of curiosity (I don't do DCC) what is in circuit to stop the capacitor charging at lower voltages? Is there some funky switching circuit across it with voltage detection? A capacitor will normally charge to what ever voltage is present across it's terminals.

I had mine out on the test track yesterday. Even before running in it started smoothly, no sudden lurches or drag race launches. It's a very smooth runner overall and quiet too, no noisy mechs here. This was tested with an ECM controller (DC PWM).

I can confirm mine work on DC just fine. They are dim (e.g. realistic rather than obscenely bright and gimmicky) but they do indeed work fine even at low speeds.

I don't think anything else is required to hold it in under normal use. Mine slotted in quite firmly and is not loose. It may have been not fitted correctly at the factory or received a shock at some point during shipping. Either way I'm not worried about it falling out again.

😖 yeah I just sussed that out looking at the detailing pack. I will check the area I unpacked it, it wasn't loose in the box. edit: Panic over, found it down the edge of the sofa between the arm and cushion. Good job Phil posted his pic, I could have been oblivious until the chimney worked its way down inside the sofa!

I just took a pic of my No 97 to post but no point in duplicating. One thing I noticed though is I need to dig out the detail pack as I haven't even put my chimney in yet. 😂

I'm now offcially excited. I have got footage of postie leaving a parcel in the safe place. 😊

Mine went out via Royal Fail. You can guess the status of it...