Matt

To some of you this will seem a daft question but here it goes… on my pair of new Bach 37/4s I’ve fitted Plux22 decoders from Lais DCC but am finding that I can’t operate the central headlight- everything else working as should. Is there something I need to configure here? Thanks for any advice, Matt

I’m not sure I know much more except that the std Mk2 had a different corridor connecting door (appears flat from outside compared with twin leaf of Mk2a and later). Also the upgraded Mk2s for E-G services had disc brakes fitted instead of tread brakes which I believe was the standard across Mk2s of all series excepting some of the Mk2f DBSOs. M

My little collection is en route to add to the ones I have from first round. The only issue I’ll have now is that my warwells are looking a bit bare……

Seems like you have a few customers queues up including me. Chocks and tensioner straps ready…

The former 101 car has NEM socket on back on cam arrangement and cutout for a NEM fitting thing on front on bogie frame - see photos for details. I’ve switched my connection to a Hornby/Roco type. what I thought was simple Q… took some finding. I need to sort my stock storage as wasn’t where it should have been!

Try this - seller is planeday if that helps. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114907270218?hash=item1ac101cc4a:g:Qu0AAOSw~sRg~mgq&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoPWNFafL1Faypwci%2BSazqhQk3EIsRu3SIQY5gZAhBym%2BqFK%2BSUq4ZnryCvL751lXX2XqCYwzjGbetBK1N9Eb48mdxbZLDB0r5beY8K5qlWHOxC%2FGzYkuMgGAyfD1inOmahYnk5fv7lGy0S5Sqx9jnam5i05RIMiYTKqayk%2BfGZKEfYj9x%2BXvjI3bxq9gqNdk%2FMhgfSYK9KAem5PjPJP02Hg%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-j4k9bXYQ

Believe this was a trial to see if could address complaints from drivers of cabs getting too hot due lack of air con. Can’t comment whether made a difference apart from to say it seems never to have gone fleet wide!

I finally took the plunge and picked up a couple of the new 37s at weekend. Having felt that the new 47 was nice but not that big an improvement on the old, I was expecting to feel same with new 37. However, whilst the shots in some of the above posts show minor differences vs old, I have to say that the combination of all the improvements make this quite a big step up from the old in my opinion. Sat side by side the old model does indeed appear as if on stilts and the under frame really stands out as the solid block that it is, alongside the complex arrangement of the new 37. Some of the details are sharper but the above really changes the look and results in something that looks much more like the real thing to me. Only the snowplough arrangement is a real letdown - what were they thinking going with this arrangement when there is so much beautifully engineered detail everywhere else. I think I’ve said before that it gives a “buck teeth” look to the model and my 2 will be destined for a home engineered solution. This leaves me with a problem. I have a lot of 37s amassed over many years. I didn’t want to like the new 37 much more than old because now I feel I need to replace more… and with Accura one arriving soon too… M

Prob not fixed but Danny asks a good Q about the couplers. I have yet to resolve this issue across my H66 fleet which stops them seeing much service. There is too much up/down movement in the coupling cam for reliable hauling of longer trains, certainly with Kadees. Generally the coupling flexes up under load. This problem isn’t unique to this model but given its capability for hauling is really frustrating. Can’t comment if affects other coupling types. M

One of mine sounded like it was chattering its teeth at low speeds but seems to have improved with running in. Sounded like coming from bogies

Looking through some of my books there appear to be a Mk2 brake (non aircon) with a small red stripe across one window. What would that be, anyone? Not sure if a 2b or a…

Hmm lack of Scotrail branded 2Cs / Model Rail Scotland in 2 weeks…. Order now or wait and see…?

I finally had chance To run my Spotrail 158 this week. When I tested on DC I thought it was a bit loud (on a Hornby H&M controller which I think does something funky with the wave?) but on DCC it has run reasonably sweetly - not as quiet as some but not particularly rattly. Might suggest that not all of them are noisy if our perceptions of what is acceptable are the same. M

Which is more hazardous? Full wagons full of flammable liquid or “empty” wagons full of explosive gas (depending what has been carried). Some great photos there - reminds me I need to get on and do my plain grey TTAs that I’ve been stocking up on into BP grey. Of course Hornby announce a new wagon just after I stockpile loads of Bachmann… at least not in the livery I want! (Yet)

Not 100% sure on this - never noticed difference on later models which your chassis and body should be. The body is a pain to get back on normally - often requires teasing on at cab doors - could that be issue?

I wouldn’t say this behaviour is typical of Bach 6 axle locos - I have around 100 and most are fine. There is a well documented issue with the Bach 66 which can be resolved with a spacer to lift the bogie to body gap slightly as issues can be caused by catching - oddly not in all cases. The issue with the 47 is not one I’ve encountered but I wonder if could be a back to back issue with the wheels which is occasionally an issue across many manufacturers products? M

Did anyone who tried to buy things from this ad ever receive their items? I’m trying not to think the worst but nothing has arrived over a month later. Would be good to know if just me or if others are waiting too. thanks, Matt

It’s true they are not easiest to get right but careful design and adjusting during construction and they can work well. I have never had a derailment on my helix - wish could say same for rest of layout. I agree on using setrack to ensure no kinks. I don’t think you will have issues with modern diesels unless running really long rakes . If it was me and running steam I would install Powerbase to give the option for better steam traction - you only need it on up line! You don’t have to install magnets but option is there if needed and would be tricky to retrofit. The only thing I can’t run on my helix is electric traction as the pantographs hit the roof unless I clip them down… M

I have a helix at one end of my layout with 3/4th radius curves. I built mine from thin plywood and the gap between each level is set at something like 65-70mm if I recall correctly. I am running 6+ coach trains up and down this with no issue at all using mostly Bachmann diesels - the haulage of these is pretty impressive and is not challenged. From what I have heard traction with steam locos is more challenging but I have no direct experience. this isn’t my first attempt at a helix but is my first successful one - the use of threaded rod to set each level makes a huge difference and allows adjusting to get right - I wish I had thought of this first time around.

It’s not just the cost of the wagons… I hadn’t considered the cost of the cars to fill them until trying to fill my rake of IPAs…. Not complaining tho - lovely wagons and will be adding a rake of cartics in due course

There are several online retailers I use who always provide a good reliable service but Derails goes one step further in my experience - they are the only retailer so far to call me when I ordered 2 identical coaches to check if I would prefer alternative numbered versions instead (I wasn’t aware there was A and B versions) and I’m sure there was another occasion they checked a detail on my order too. They too have several pre-orders of mine and are now my first port of call.

I’ve found that even some brand new wagons can suffer resistance in wheels, on others manifests later. On mine it seems like plastic dwarf is sometimes the issue (esp on new) or just gunge over time. As others have said, pop wheels out, clean pin point ends and axle unit and then pop back with tiny drop of oil. In many cases this eliminates any squeaks too. More specific issues - Bachmann IPA car wagons - on mine the screws holding the axle unit were dragging on axle creating friction and a ghastly noise. Wheels out, half turn on screw and sorted. This may occur on other wagons but so far only my IPAs inflicted All LWB wagons with odd pivoting axle set up (OTA,OBA VDA etc) - unscrew the unit, remove and reassemble with a blob of blu tack behind to stop pivot action- then make sure align right- this improves running no end and have not had issue with loss of pivot on my rakes (note I am R2 or higher curves)

Regarding making these and other similar wagons (VAA, VDA, VGA, OBA, OCA, SPA etc.) run better, it can make a big difference if you lock up the axle pivot system - I have found that having the axles capable of rotate unnecessary even on R3 and prob R2 curves. As stands the couplings cause the axles to be pulled out of true and put a lot of friction in the train (the plastic springs being barely capable of correcting this). To experiment, undo the axle unit retaining screw , remove axle unit and put a small blob of blue tack under it before refitting and screwing. Do this to both units and carefully align the axle unit true and see if helps. ALL my LWB wagons have this mod - I used to lock Them with glue but the blue tack method is effective for permanent mod. M

I have a ballast spreader but have given up using it TBH - I found that on C&L and Exactoscale track I have that it generally puts down too much ballast and requires a lot of brushing into place and removing excess (damp finger) to get a good result. I have found it quicker to scatter the ballast into place with a spoon then brush into position with a small paintbrush. might work better with Peco code 100 but can’t say for sure. Hth

I see day 17 of Rails advent calendar they’ve announced new versions of Bachmann’s polybulk - in stock now in 2 different liveries no less! https://railsofsheffield.com/products/Bachmann-38-428z-polybulk-bogie-hopper-wagon-tiger-nacco-green-grey