5050

Here's a quick shot of my first attempt at a 'Tunnocks Wrapper' cab tarpaulin. Painted with Tamiya Rubber Black, rolled around a 2mm drill and tied with short lengths of 5amp fuse wire, the ends of which can be used to stick the tarp to the underside of the cab roof. A light dry brushing to enhance the folds and creases- not forgetting a brush of black on the wires too before fitting. What do you think?

I tend to articulate on the middle axle. I think I did use the rivetted joint method once but found it so much of a faff I didn't bother again. Not experienced any strength problems (in 4mm P4) but, if there is only one layer of metal available (ie a one piece solid rod), I make up another layer with NS strip or scrap kit etch, using the one piece rods as a jig for drilling holes and then cut into the required sections and solder layers together - making sure I solder the correct layers together! I file to shape if necessary after all the bits are soldered together.

I've got one of these and the spare Bagnall chassis so I'll be watching with interest. Being a solid lead casting there won't be any haulage problems!

Must admit I've not seen it in the branches I've been to. Perhaps I should start wearing my specs again! Oh, and we don't have a Tesco in Wakey. Must be the only place of any size in the country without!

I too always fancied a Steeple cab loco and still do - but only a body. Is it an actual scale model of anything or just a 'generic' industrial style one? One thing I have had an idea of building is a small industrial layout with OH electric power. I even bought some packs of Joueff masts from Contikits a few years ago! Oh, the Triang station buildings! When I built my first 'proper' layout after getting married (it was a disaster darling! (the layout that is!!)) I used my boyhood Triang buildings - but cut them in half to make them low relief! I also covered them in Modelcraft brick paper. I should be taken out and shot at dawn.....................

Have you secured the spacer fixing screws Jeff? Coming loose could be a problem.

I've never found either Shiny Sinks, Bar Keepers Friend or Viakal on sale anywhere. Can anyone provide possible sources please?

I always solder mine and, so far, haven't experienced any expansion problems. But - I generally have small exhibition layouts. However, I've also done this on my permanent HO layout which is 12' x 10' and no problems here either. It is in a room in the main house and doesn't suffer from severe temperature variations which might have a bearing.

Tell me more, tell me more , tell me more !! With apologies to all the Grease fans out there...............

I suppose the Dettol can be re-used for paint stripping? Decanted back into the bottle after straining through some old stockings etc.? But not re-used for grazed knees etc.

Do you get any noise through that method of restraining the gearbox with the cross pieces Mike? I would have put a thin piece of foam either side myself - but perhaps I have a tendency to over think things!

I'll let you be the judge of that................................

Invisible string? Is it any relative to a long weight or a short stand? So that's how they do it is it, these magicky blokes. Where did you get it from?

On my 'Braynerts Sidings' layout in P4 I copied some Setrack points geometry and, with short 4 coupled and short wheelbase 6-coupled industrial locos and 4 wheel wagons with 3-link couplings it seems to work. However, due to exhibition cancellations it has never been tested in anger yet!

Washing up liquid is a detergent, it's basically Teepol which is (or at least was) the industrially produced detergent chemical. It's perfectly adequate for this use. The cheaper the better really because there won't be so many additives in it to make your hands softer etc. and which won't have any effect on ballast. Only a couple of drops needed. You'll see the water/glue mixture 'flatten' as you add it which shows the surface tension of the water has been overcome, so allowing the mixture to spread into the ballast, scenic foams etc. and stop them 'balling up'.

I think there were a lot of Herrings used in the Forest of Dean on ballast trains from the quarry. I bought 2 or 3 kits when I was going to build Drybrook Road and they're still in my stash.

A quite common technique used for scenery and ballasting. Use an old window cleaner spray bottle or similar. Better than chucking them away. Approx 50:50 PVA/water, few drops of IPA and/or detergent (this breaks down the surface tension of the water allowing it to spread). Proportions aren't that critical, try mixing some up and see how it works for you. It can take a time to dry depending on the temperature of your site for the layout.

Er, sumfin funny 'appened there................. I reckon I must'a clicked 'quote' rather than 'edit'. It's me age yer know.....................

I hold the pin vice horizontally in the vice and slip a small drill into the tube while cutting with a piercing saw (or a razor saw). It will rotate as the blade goes through the side wall, at which point loosen the pin vice in the vice jaws and turn it a bit to present fresh metal to the saw.

I slip a piece of black microstrip into the break, dipped into epoxy. Leave overlength, cut off when set and trim level with the top and sides of the rail. I'm not that organised to be able to determine where all the gaps will be once I've laid the track so tend to cut gaps retrospectively with a razor saw. I also use this technique on insulation gaps in points.

My experiences with 5-min epoxy have not been good, even with 'quality' brands. If I need a good bond these days I use the 'proper' stuff (my tubes are many years old but still work, even if they are a bit 'messy') and generally do the work before going to bed so that it's set OK by morning. I tried the 2-tube type some years ago and found that it contaminated itself very easily and went off before I had used much of it. Never been tempted to try again. I'm also not a great fan of so-called 'superglue'. Again, not had much success with it despite trying for many years. OK for securing small wires in tight holes (eg handrails) but not for anything of any size.

Just realised that I have some photos of the chassis of 5810 - Very much of its day and showing its OO ancestry with the original square K's frame spacers. Looking at that long length of motor shaft, a flywheel may be a good addition?

I've found that Branchlines gearboxes with their metal gears, are more noisy than the equivalent High Level ones. Saying that, the ones I have used work well, especially with a good running-in with a toothpaste/grease mixture, and have survived several years of start/stop shunting puzzle exhibition use. I make them 'splittable' with brass or aluminium tube spacers and 10 (or 12?) BA nuts and bolts to enable the chassis to be taken apart during construction. See here -

Is there any 'standard' way of mounting the cab canvases onto the loco when not in use? I've been looking through book photos for Dean Goods especially - including my chosen 2538 which, as one of the last examples running, was often photographed. This loco seems to have spent a lot of time with the canvas extended onto the tender (as is its purpose in life), the mid Wales weather probably being the reason! However, other locos have it rolled under the back edge, spread over the cab roof etc. I suppose trying to find your prototype loco in photos and modelling what you see is the way to go. BTW, I made one up from Tunnocks wrapper, 30 x 20mm, painted Tamiya Rubber Black - and it looks pretty acceptable to me. Photo to follow.

I remember BITD when the Kitmaster Prairie was the latest thing, the old Model Railway Constructor ran an article on motorising one using a Hornby Dublo chassis - but I'm sure it wasn't the R1. It might even have been a rewheeled Duchess. These type of articles appeared almost every month back then, in line with the almost monthly releases of the various kits. The West Country kit was motorised with a Hornby Dublo A4 chassis. Airfix magazine also ran a series of articles on kitbashing all sorts of GWR locos from Prairies and City of Truro kits.