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Knuckles

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  1. Knuckles
    Greetings.
     
    If you followed this thread and the above post you may know that I eventually solved the issue of getting a LB&SCR E2 kit I was happy with...I made my own. So my first Sparkshot Custom Creations E2 was in Gunky rusted BR Black using the cheaper WSF material. Since then I have also been working on a new type of chassis and the prototype can be read about and viewed as a video regarding the Furness J1 in this thread:
     
    https://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=5086&start=25
     
    For this post though it is time to be culturally naughty. Me, culturally naughty? Never....
     
    Those of you who know me may by now understand I have two main railway interests above all others; pre-Grouping railways and realistic researched versions of the Railway Series (RWS). The TV series of 'Thomas & Friends' is nothing like the Railway Series that Wilbert Awdry intended and although most may move on and 'grow up' in this area I have a goal of restoring things to a researched almost uncompromised image.
     
    So a friend of mine, also known as Whitehousefilms asked me if I could fiddle with his ancient Stuart Reidpath locomotive and improve its running and iron out the coffee grinder sound effects. I gave it a good go. Completely stripped the motor, soaked it in white spirit, scrubbed it, soldered a connection back on and gave it new contacts. It ran a.fraction better but not a lot. Still grinding. Then he asked if I could build him a chassis. Hmm, opportunity, guinea pig time.....
     
    Taking what I learned from the J1 chassis I improved certain design features and attempted to print it on my own Robox 3D printer (RBX 02). For this reason it had no brake pads as they are a bit awkward to print. I also designed in a pivot point for a compensation beam as I had never tried compensation before so thought it good opportunity to do so. Articulated coupling rods were scratch built from some old code 100 rail filed to death and hinging on the centre crank pin. Wiper pick ups were arranged as per my current favourite method of top acting springing downwards.
     
    Best running chassis I think I built.
     
    So now that I thought it was time to build my first ever Thomas model I again took info from the previous build and improved it more. Again printed on my own printer minus brake pads.
     
    I conducted a lot of practical research for a perfect working clearance for both Romford/Markits & Alan Gibson bushes for the Bearing Carriers. If I remember correctly I set things up for compensation and the printed parts to give 0.4mm movement up or down. I may be wrong here so may check, been a while.
     
    Anyway here is the chassis unfinished...
     


     
    The white Nylon frame at top of picture is like a keeper plate that I later reprinted in the same material as the chassis. HD glass, a modified PETG. Basically water bottle plastic.
     
    I devised a simple bodge to make sure the Alan Gibson wheels were pressed on their axles properly. Variable speed battery powered mini drill in a vice! Not sophisticated....but I rarely am. The other wheels when pressed home with the GW Models quartering jig usually go on square but if not a bit of teasing usually sorts it.
     
    I checked my component tray named 'crank pins' and found I only had 3 Alan Gibson crank pins left. '######' I though, 'better ring Colin up' but sadly Colin was ill and was rightfully taking a break.
     
    Hmm.
     
    Well I had a few Romford/Markits crank pins still and I read that they can be used with Alan Gibson wheels. I was a wee unsure but found out it was hyper easy to do...drill the hole bigger. Cake.
     
    So this mongrel mutt has one side proper and one side bodged.
     
    The coupling rod in the pic is one of my SCC E2 rods in brass.
     
    So what gearing are we to use? I used a High Level Kits Road Runner + before in the first SCC E2 I xid but found I had to shave away a lot of material to fit it. However I used a drive extender in my Furness K2 loco and that worked great.
     
    So that was what I'd do again...
     

     
    But compensation needs articulated coupling rods and mine are fixed. ######!
     
    So I cut them in half and filed flats

     
    Then I soldered some scrap nickel silver to one side as an extension and drilled a hole where the join is to be. Proper place this time rather than on the crank pin. Never tried this.

     
    then you see here the other hole is drilled too

     
    The other hole was plotted by placing the rods in position to the correct wheelbase. E2's had an equal wheelbase of 8' + 8' so 32mms + 32mms. The first hole drilled became the jig for the second hole.

     
    I then soldered a 0.7mm brass rod in one of the holes to basically make a pin

     
    This was capped by an over sized Romford/Markits crank pin washer as it is all I had.
     
    Here is the chassis more complete. Compensation beams to my knowledge are supposed to go on top. I forgot this so put it underneath. Does it matter? I haven't changed it, reason below in the post.
     

     
    When adding the crew the Bachmann Scenecraft Fireman wouldn't fit. To remedy this I got another guy with an oil can, cut the oil can off and positioned him so it looks like he is grabbing the lever. Bit a shovel needs to be in the cab so I scatch bodged one from black emery paper, rod and scrap etch.
     


     
    A bit rough but not as rough as the cab interior and backhead. For future editions of the E2 I may make the backhead as a separate glue in piece as the print orientation wasn't the best and painting it neat in situe was a challenge so it looks a bit messy. Gauge controls I broke off so will sort that too.
     
    Shovel leaning against corner glued to wall crook at handle.

     
    So with that I painted the chassis black and added sand pipes. Wheels blue. Lining straights are HMRS 1mm / 3" lines. Curves and boiler bands are hand lined. I will be getting 0.75mm lines in future but good enough for now. Number ones are also hand painted. Porthole 'glass' is Krystal Klear glue. Whistle is a genuine brass SCC print.
     
    the rear windows should really have grills added but I fear the fiddle and finish ruination so might not bother.
     
    Thomas according to pretty much all the illustrations should have the open coal rail/stave rather than the fully enclosed type but never mind. Again for future revisions I may make and fit the open type to the model and provide the closed type in the file as an option. Cutting the frame type would be a LOT easier and less risky then if you wanted this type. Also may revise cab beading profile but these revisions will come later.
     
    Now to the best of my knowledge, Sodor is vacuum braked and not air braked. I have painted the Westinghouse air pump to fit with the model but maybe it needs to be removed??? ?? I'm unsure. I didn't add the pipe to the handrail area for this unsure reason. If anyone can give a solid case for it's removal then feel free. Just after accuracy.
     
    I will upload to Shapeways the brake pads as spares and fit them later.
     
    So apart from the above quibbles regarding coal rails and pumps this to my conclusion represents Thomas in about 1920 ish when he would have been purchased on the quiet. The 1960's rebuild will be made later some day. Personally the early Thomas would have been a straight Extended Tank E2, no front splashers and no front cab rectangular side windows and standard running pate curves. In fact the original version of Railway Series #2 'Thomas the Tank Engine' was illustrated by Reginald Payne and showed the character with side cab rectangular LINING instead of the window. It was only when Clarence Reginald Dalby revised the artwork he decided to 'poke' them out.
     
    You already had unfinished glimpses so below, bar the above improvements and bar the fact the smokebox dart is a temporary scratch build and bar the fact the smokebox door is plonked in at a wonky angle and bar the fact I need to remove some silver paint from the door seal.......deep breath.
     
    Well whatever.
     
    North Western Railway / NWR # 1 'Thomas' in 1920's guise...
     











     
    Displayed with some of my other SCC loco's and RTR bashes.



     
    Oh yeah. Loco body is a Shapeways FUD print and the rear coupling I forgot to mention is omitted until I decide what type to install.
     
    How does it run?
     
    Bloodly lovely. Never made a perfect runner before but this is darn close. Possibly the best runner I ever made. So will be taking this chassis development of mine further.
     
    What thinketh thou?
  2. Knuckles
    Like the first A0 Gordon, this one is also my second version of Gordon MK II.
     
    Pastes:
     
    -
     
    Gordon 1939 Crewe Rebuild - MK II
     
    Based and modelled from Simon and Sean's research as close as I could. I just hope it doesn't disapoint after all this time, I have tried hard on it as I always do. I can never help but pick myself up though. :
     
    From an older picture you may have seen I have revised those cylinder drain cocks as to my mind they were too high, so now they are squashed together abit more and I think they look more realistic, they have been weathered ever so slightly too. They are abit bent in areas but I can live with that, making them is a fiddle anyway. This time too I have made the running plate curve steps with foot grip. I was going to use brass but found convincing enough plasticard, it wasn't the pattern I was looking for but it serves. better than flat anyway. Some areas look abit rougher now that the photo's have zoomed things in abit but it's not a big deal. Also on this version I have painted the cab windows brass instead of yellow ever so thinly, especially the side ones, I was skeptical at first but am now convinced this is more correct. Erm, erm, oh yeah, as usual it's had a super mild weathering, hardly noticable though. If there is anything more to do to it I suppsoe it would be more neatening and a smoke generator (to do later anyway but doesn't effect look much) and maybie if I go DCC a decoder. So it's finished pretty much.
     
    Something else but it's hard to see, on the buffers I layered paint in a blobby fashion with various greasy coloures, then squashed them when half dry to get a 3D squashed grease effect you get on buffers. I like the look to be honest, authough I do wander if they would get that bad on Gordon.
     
    I might cut the cylinder cock length yet and the eccentric crank bracket thingy is scratch built in 8F style.
    Smokebox door on slightly wonky in these pics, but ignore that.
     
     
    Hope you like it.
    it's another box ticked on my list.
     
     


























     
    8-)
     
     
    EDIT: I fotfot to paint the cab steps blue! Always something, *sigh*, I'll do it later, at least it's minor.
  3. Knuckles
    More pastes! This is my first working brass model and a kit bash to boot. It does work but I have a new cahassis ready becasue I want to make it run better.
     
    Tender doors? Not many pics with it on James, plus in real live they were not always on.
     
    Paint messy in places, had a drama with it because it is a gloss, I hate gloss paint as a base, but it is good enough for me for now, maybie with varnidshes and washes I can fix it later.
    I haven't weathered James yet, brake dust and running plate gray etc, the funel is plonked on because of smoke gen so might be abit 'off' in some pics. The boiler and dome however ARE off, had a problem when building it so the angles are dodgy, luckily though you will only see it in some pics. Oh yeah, the safety valves are bent aswell, no ones perfect!
     
    Runs ok, good enough as you seen by the test vid' before.
     
    Haven't put balance weights on because I can't see any on the real loco, plus the kit had none so unless I find out later, it has none. Class 27's are a different story apparently. Also the Hughes Class 28 had 5' 1" wheels, I've bashed mine to have 5' 6" wheels as Wilbert Awdry said. (Wander if the real James did, Si'?) I've also reshaped the cab windows and the splashers, the 4 stand alone splashers are completely scratch built, plus lots of other things mensioned before in the threads. Still need to make a face or 50. This model isn't perfect by any means, but it's my 1st brass soldering kit and it works and it is a kit bash, so I'm bloody happy enough!
     
    Extra boiler band to what you are used to seeing also.
    Still needs worksplates, anyone help?
     
    So without further adoo (spelling?) may I present to the world:
     
     
     
    NWR#5 THE REAL JAMES
     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     
    YEAH!
     
     
  4. Knuckles
    If anyone can help with the above great, if not no worries.

    So what is this massive 00 gauge layout I am building in the loft? I haven't revealed much about how the plan looks, suffice to say I have been planning Knapford Junction and Tidmouth on and off with a thousand revisions since around 2010 due to the lack of space. It is also why I cannot do it in P4 but I can do it in 00, will be hand building some track to save money too and make it more realistic. P4 layout will go above as an end to end once I decide what I am modelling.

    So the plan is Tidmouth into the Tidmouth/Knapford Tunnels, the top side of which has points to be the Ballahoo Tunnels (Henry's Tunnel) although I have changed the trackplan here to be a hybrid of the TV series with their extra line removed because quite frankly the RWS trackplan makes ###### all sense. I'd like to swap the crossover around and it would make even more sense but there you go, we'll see. Anyway it then goes into Knapford Junction and then into a modular area that I can do whatever with. Keep the tracks train set style so I can bodge up different scenes, or use it for a finger point operated fiddle yard. Whatever really. Knapford will ultimately be removable so I can plug in different scenes/layouts there as time goes on. I have banged on about this concept for eons but it is important for future proofing the layout and making difference scenes.

    Ok so this is the current track plan, subject to further tweaks of course...



     

    Planning the exact dimensions is difficult in Anyrail and as I want to make a 'Big Station' that can be both a good representation of Vicarstown AND Tidmouth due to not having space to model both I devised a way to do so.

    Basically make the Vicarstown trackplan and then when in 'Tidmouth Mode' cover the tracks with an extra platform each. The unwanted approach tracks can then be simply cut off with a temporary buffer stop and a bit of ballast. Simples!

    The only visual compromises here would be the 3 way points in the station would look a bit odd being covered up by a platform but he ho, small sacrifice.

    The other difference would be the tracks in Tidmouth Mode are not central to the canopies....but so what, they don't have to be bang on center anyway.

    MPD is my researched and thousand revised version of Tidmouth.

    Vicarstown MPD would likely have to be another scene on another board.

    Anyway, as Anyrail wasn't accurate enough to plan the station itself and its construction I went to 3D to build a very basic but accurate model.

    It is 6' x 2' exactly except the branch line track I decided at last to bung on the outside. Station can hold a 5 coach train and about half a coach if the loco is sitting outside the front.

    I have tried to plan it so things are as even as possible and I ave used my long 10' PECO point on my modelling desk as a basic planner. Tracks here are 3cm wide with equal gaps, slight difference in the real world shoud not make a big issue.

    I have gave the platforms 5mm clearance which is generous but after adding the edging strips it will be reduced.

    I plan to make the buildings as 3D printed modules that can link together and likely would release on Shapeways although they would be cheaper buying from me directly if I do so. My 3D printer is a great friend!

    Canopies I may 3D print or I may scratch build, unsure yet. For this 3D model the tracks are 5mm high, platforms 15mm high, buildings 8cm high and canopies also 8cm high. Looks about right to me.

    The following picture and the text should make things clearer...




    As a final thing I'm having a go at 3D printing a small control panel for my N Gauge Norramby. Name plaque is removable and has a top design that clip in. Holes for switches can be pre-designed in as seen here. Taking ages to print!



     
    Comments welcome, please let me know what you think about all this and any possible suggestions. I'm really trying hard to make things work by being meticulous as I can. This is why I am so slow to get anything done sometimes but I have had a lot of frustrations with model railways as everything has to be in good combination for everything to work 100%.

    Eeeez Goood Iniiit!
  5. Knuckles
    At last some actual modelling!

    Two Little Ducks; Twenty Two - Quack Quack!

    You remember my RWS Duck From 2007 right? Of course you do. It was kindly hosted on TRLOTTTE that I am relieved to finally realize has been saved by Ryan and his merry men!

    http://www.sodor-island.net/railwayseries/
    http://www.sodor-island.net/railwayseries/modeller-gavin-duck.htm
    This was then rebuilt slightly when the chassis was modified and converted to P4 instead of 00.

    This is what it looked like


    All good for many years, however...



    Well, you see, a while back the poor bird came to some mischief.

    What happened was after almost 13 years of existence the paint finish was starting to look a wee grubby and in between all the top detail there was an amalgamation of dust, oil, grit and diverse kinds of cruddy 'horriblies!'

    Just made that word up, good init!?

    Well, I learned by accident years ago that a brush dipped in thinners can work wonders for cleaning all the grease and cack out of small areas bringing the surface back to an almost new look, also useful for making a key before painting.

    I was never 100% happy with Bachmann's GWR shade. I mean, I always liked it yet often desired a more 'chirpy' interpretation. 'I know' thought I, 'a good application of gloss varnish will do the trick,' for you see, it has wooooorrms...oh no, wrong thread, um.

    For you see, a good gloss can bring out the richness in the colour of a model and in many cases remove the need for a repaint.

    However, in this case things didn't quite go to plan. It seems Bachmann's 'GWR' transfers are not quite as permanent as other ones and after an enthusiastic rubbing about with the thinners they subsequently 'crazed' and crinkled up.

    D'OH BUGGEUR!!

    'What to dooo, what to dooo.....well it's too late now init.' I thought.

    Out came the fiber glass brush and the G, the W and the R were rubbed away completely. My hand was forced to repaint the entire thing.

    So, having lost my mojo the bird was packed away for a rainy day.

    Then I met up with James Drury, a fellow SiF member and had a bloody good day out at the GCR. Thanks buddy.

    Upon this meet up I agreed to undertake a couple of modelling jobs for him.
    For one of them he handed me a brand new Bachmann 5700 Class 0-6-0 Pannier Tank locomotive. Virtually identical to mine but with a much better shade of GWR green.

    It goes without saying he wanted a RWS Duck making like mine and so my own duck also went through the much needed overhaul at the same time.

    Now, the sandboxes on my Duck were literally just two lumps of Balsa wood cut to size. They have served nicely for many years but I think it is safe to say they needed upgrading. I'd need to make some for James and buggered if you thought I was going to give him some nice wood grained sand boxes.

    No...I'd have to design my own from fresh.

    Now with a 3D printer on my desk I have a great helper, so a quick measurement of the balsa wood sand boxes was made and the basic dimensions were copied. A filler cap was added to the top also. A few different designs were done, all slightly different with circular or oval caps. These once printed were smoothed off, fitted and painted.




    I thought they looked so good on his model, my own Duck just had to have them too.
    https://www.shapeways.com/product/TV9KA5VJE/sandboxes-gwr-5741-style?optionId=69498555

    ------------------------

    For my own P4 duck the changes are as follows:

    1) Full repaint with brushes (Phoenix Precision P10, 1928-'45)
    2) New sandboxes
    3) New GWR letters from Fox-Transfers
    4) More weathering under the running plate
    5) Paint the green front to revert black to that black ring seen in some RWS illustrations (Makes a change)
    6) Gloss varnish (Thinned and applied with brush)

    For James's 00 Duck....

    1) Front coupling added
    2) The red on buffer beam to be a more bright scarlet type red
    3) 5741 etched number plates added (Fox-Transfers)
    4) Sandboxes added
    5) Under frame weathering
    6) Paint the front green but with the black ring kept

    That was going to be it, however I had the suggestion I gloss it. Now this didn't turn out well because of atmospheric conditions so it ruined the colours completely and frosted white almost. BAAAAH!!! Happens sometimes. No amount of remedial varnishing was working so I decided to brush paint it being very careful around the GWR so as to not disturb them. So...

    7) Repaint!
    8) Gloss varnish (Thinned and applied with brush)

    As a result the texture of the finish is not perfect like the factory finish it started out as, for both locomotives that is. However mine is the roughest so that's a good thing really. You only see the slight texturing in certain light.

    Ok so why gloss varnish?

    Well, it has been said many times that most RTR locomotives arrive now from the factory in a dull egg shell semi satin type finish because gloss can look too plastic like and unrealistic if too thick. This can be true, yet I'd also argue that ex works locomotives can be REALLY shiny..like really really shiny. So shiny in fact you can see yourself in the paint and when the light catches it in the right way all the minute cockles and micro dents on the paneling will be visible. Well, it is my opinion that gloss can still look good on 4mm scale models and in many cases if done right will give the impression the plastic is actually etched brass. I'd argue they look more metallic glossed.

    Anyway, see what you think.
    I will need to make/buy a smokebox door for mine as I hacked it off ages ago and I like to run the engines both with and without faces. For now though the face is cool.

    You will see my 5741 plates are looking a little tired and grubby but I can live with it.
    The new GWR transfers on mine are physically a wee smaller and a more bright yellow but I'm cool with that. Mine also needs a brake pipe at the rear and a handle added to the top as I lost them a while ago.

    Now out of my 21 (I think) experience modelling and painting things despite me thinking I'm pretty handy I still make mistakes and have much to learn, as is evidenced here on the less than perfect finishes. That said at most light angles they look good I'd say.

    Overall I'm pretty happy with how they have turned out; a fresh one in 00 and an overhauled P4 one given.
    Generally pleased.

    --------------------


























    Quack Quack!
     
     
     
    EDIT:
     
    Always something to forget isn't there?
    Real coal in the bunkers.
     


     
     
     
    EDIT: Vid!
     

  6. Knuckles
    The below is again another paste from other forums, construction phase blog might be included sometime after like on Fury but unsure yet, anyway. This is my 2nd attempt at Gordons first version how he was likelt to be seen in 1923 upon arival to Sodor. I did a version before which was just a repainted Hornby Great Northern and nothing more but due to more information and more plausable research mainly conducted by S.A.C Martin and Sean O'Connor the version below is the result. The center of the running plate is angular rather than curved, this is because S.A.C.Martin would rather it be angular to look more raw and less polished, but we also agreed it 'in reality' could have been curved like the sides and illustrations. I only inclue that information because on a personal level I'd rather it curved but have refrained, however, EITHER could be correct as the locomotive probably never even existed! The middle cylinder will fit anyway. I am dabbeling with the idea of a removable center plate I might add, then I could swap the parts at will! Shouldn't be too hard as long as I'm neat and careful.
     
    pastes:
     
    -
     
    face on tad wonky I know, rush fitted it for pics, look at the mouth corners.
     













     
    Hope you like it.
  7. Knuckles
    Whilst Simon and Sean were doing there brilliant research found:
    http://www.pegnsean....-a0-Pacific.htm
    and:
    http://pegnsean.net/...no4-rebuild.htm
     
    I have been revising my model of Gordon MK1 to fit. Truth be told Gordon MK 1 (A) was just a paint test for me to test my air brush and blue colours in preparation for Gordon MK II, it was simply a repainted Gresley A1, the 1st built called Great Northern.
     
    I want to give a heartfull thankyou to Simon and Sean for putting up with my constant niggles and lack of understanding in some areas concirning the research, I was privelidged to play a teeny weeny part of it and see/discuss things before they were published. I'm also acknowledge the research wasn't done for 'ME'! I'm just an extra in all this, but with all things RWS I try to find the most probably truth with things, and seeing as I'm trying to bring the RWS to life on film as I deem properly, I'm only really a modular layout away. (Planned) The model making I think I'm doing a good job of in terms of building the characters how they most likely would have looked.
     
    I also want to thank Loey Machan and co for there research previous, I don't want you to think this is a slap in the face considering the hours put it, I'm still greatfull and regardless of these newest outcomes we still came a darn sight closer to Hornby or Bachmann to the true image. Gordon MK II will be a new bash. This revise of Gordon MK 1 was a bash of a painted A1.
    I repainted it with a sable brush doing loads of light coats and then varnished it. I'm very pleased with the result because I was scared that a hand brush on job would look abit blobby, especially as it is literally going over the old paint job, thankfully and to my supprise it turned out fairly good IMO.
     
    The 1st set of pics will show you the rebuilding, the second set will be the finished presentation. I have took these pics in natural light so they will look alot lighter and the blue on Gordon looks lighter than the darker blue you most often see him in regarding my models, it is infact the same colour and shade. For some reason the colour changes drastically in different light, if i take the pics in yellow light it looks a darker blue and sometimes even a clear purple..odd.
     
    Whilst all the research was going on I couldn't realistically show you any progress as it was abit of a giveaway, thus I can safely show you now.
     
    If you look at the final draft of the A0 contained in the 2nd paper released you will see that like the 02 locomotive the front had the curve, so I did an edit of a drawing, Gordon MK 1 will look very similer to this:

     
    I manage it to bash the valve gear and make my own bracket to accept the lower running plate as the A0 drawing s show, was a super sized pig to do but it works fine, this is the same mod that I wanted to do for Henry 1 but could not, if you remember I had the bracket going up through the plate, not so now.
     






     
     
    1st few body mods.





     
    more:




     
    more

    Unlike Henry I've managed to preserve the running plate and most of the splashesr, but I had to do cut outs I'm sad to say. Good thing is this is where the lubricator handles go so they divert the eye.
     





  8. Knuckles

    NWR #6 'Percy'

    By Knuckles,

    I finished Percy!















     
    I will be making my own chassis for it as I want slightly bigger 14mm/ 3' 6" wheels (rather than 12mm / 3') and slower running so the Peckett W4 chassis it is mainly designed for I have just borrowed from my own Peckett W4, that's why I have not painted the wheels greener.  The #6 is a home made decal, not perfect but good enough.  I'm VERY happy!  Will get some faces sorted later as I like to use faces as well as smokebox doors.
     
    Email me at sparkshot082@gmail.com if you'd like this bodyshell or any of  the other variants for £34.89 + postage and packaging.  On Shapeways they are around £63 instead!
    I wonder how it'd look in a different livery?   
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
  9. Knuckles
    Ok cushy update.
     
    I sorted it, little birdy in the mind wouldn't shut up so I took the keeper plate off, removed the wheels, poked the 'compo' pin out, turned the bar around and then after a bit of trial and error bent it to where it worked properly. Result is great running again also slightly improved so I'm uber pleased.
     
    When I glued the lead shot in the 'ballast bin' I forgot to not get the glue between the keeper. As a result ol' Bonehead had to rip it off and sort another out. So I went to the Nylon12 keeper plate, tweaked it a bit and fitted that instead. Is a better material for a keeper plate anyway despite being a bit bendy. It has been painted black since.
     
    So here we go, screws turned, keeper off, wheels out and compensation bar swapped around..
     

     
    After some bar tweaking you simply reverse the process...
     


     
    Good init!
     
    Ok and here is a video...
     

     

    Previous blog for all the pics and building details.
  10. Knuckles
    I have been bashing a model of LMS 6399 FURY from a Bachmann parallel Boiler Royal Scot for two reasons.
     
    Reaosn 1) I have ALWAYS wanted a model of it! I have seen two models of Fury on Vectis online and that's it, literally. I think I have attained a standard better than the gray version but inferiour to the Crimson Lake version. Either way despite a few niggles that I'm kicking myself for, I'm happy with it.
     
    Reason 2) Me, S.A.C Martin and Sean O'Connor and SiFox at the Permanent Way Model Forum have finally filmed the competition at Simons' house to compete out three models, was a brilliant few days for which I am highly greatfull of. Thank's guys!
     
    Older construction posts will be provided butbecause I have a lot to upload from the past few years expect predominantly the finished pictures.
     
    Ok, the following post have been pasted from the other forums, but whatever, please comment and enjoy!
     
     
     
     
     
     
    Lots of typo's below and can't be bothered to edit them yet, please live with them. I also said a lamp iron broke, I meant guard iron.
     
    It's a day or so after the PW Staff Competition and now that my entry is basically finished I thought it time to show it off. First off I wish to pick myself up on a few things that stick out to me as needing atencion. The others will tell you I've drove them abit barmy going on about it but never mind. First off there seems to be two plates of similar style to works plates on the smokebox in some pictures. Unsure what it is and undecided if I am going to add them yet. Secondly a sand pipe broe off so that's not in shot on one side and also the front end of a lamp iron snapped off so if they look abit roug it's becasue they have been repaired numerious times and are looking abit messy! Cylinder drain cocks could be added and the tender front is somewhat messy at the lining, had quite a few lining issues with the tender and the horizontal strip has had about 6 layers of transfer lining on, each strip broken into 3 or 4 parts for controlability - not fun or quick I must say. Lastly the paint finish, while I am fairly happy with it the gloss varnish didn't come out quite as well as it did with Gordon, it isn't too bad but at some angls it looks slightly giraffe patterned. This is also more noticable to me than the others apparently, but these things to me are as thorns in the rear. The front buffer beam has been lined as per some pictures. I originally used a yellow transfer line, the thinnest was the same as on the running plate sides but this looked really chunky so I had to basically thin it out myself free hand, black on top and red inside. Steps were also a pain to line with the transfers so again I decided to hand line them - also a pain but the look is good enough albeit a trifle uneaven. My biggest gripe must be the pump drum compressor thingymabobby's (anyone know what they actually are?) I housed the main drums about 1.5-2mm's too low giving an inaccuracy of probably 5 or 8 inches in real life, again maybe this is more noticable to me but it has threw the position of the pipework out somewhat. Side on the top uppermost pipe that is close to the steampipe (into left cylinder) should be flush with the top, has it happens it is lower and I am kicking myself for making this mistake. it could have been avoided. Also the rivet transfers that took a long time to apply didn't looks so well after the paint, mainly due to bad application in areas where the backing curled slightly, that said they still look better there than not. I didn't count every rivet placement but I counted quite a few - oh dear!!!
     

    See






    Ok whinge over. Things I am happy about.
     
    The overall impression in my opinion captures the lines of the prototype nicely, same look, character and atmosphere. The Crimson Lake colour is just perfect, the shade is better than I thought it would be and isn't too red nor too brown, perfect. The etched name plates and transfers from Fox-Transfers are brilliant, I love the cabside numbering and LMS on the tender. Took a while to poke into place and I felt sick after due to straining my eyes into sub millimetre focus but it was worth it. The valve gear modification of an extra cylinder and piston went fairly well and actually works without binding the motion - sweet.
    The firebox hatch lines have been soothed over due to the paint layers and this I think makes them look better, they don't stand out as being almost an inch or two thick now that they have been smoothed. This corisponds well to the drawings and photographs where they are bearly visible. Urmm, there are a few other things too but anyway. The following pictures DO NOT give the model full justice, I say this becasue it was taken with clouds and the colours are badly dulled. If the sun comes out I will take these pictures again becasue the Crimson Lake really does look best in the sun, these pictures looks rather flat and crap. I haven't weathered a thing so this is a very clean locomotive, but I might, anyway...
     
    Finally may I present my entry in all it's glory.
     
     
     
    # 6399 FURY
     






















     
     
    Comments most welcome.
     
    ;D
     
    P.S - Special thanks to Simon for providing the tender coal and the smoke box number transfers. If anyone comments about the style of the 9 being incorrect, know this. I do not care! Looks fine.

     
    -
     
    Cheers for all your comments, really appreciate them.
     
     

    Comparison.
    As new

     
    Tweaked



     
    Just realized,Ii think the cylinders might need a tad of silver. Possibly. As I said before when the sun comes out I'm taking more pictures! Looks redder then.
     
    -----------------------------
     
    And now as I said I would, picture batch 2. I hope you agree the sunlight really does make a huge differance in how Fury looks, especially the Crimson Lake.






















     
    That last pic I really like. ;D Don't know why.
  11. Knuckles

    Moving to P4

    By Knuckles,

    Ok, it is official, I have gone raving mad and took the plung into the world of P4 (not so much S4)
    Starting with this post is some actual proof rather than speculation, I have made that all important start.
    Pictures show some tools, gauges and bits I have brought, also I have joined two wheels to an axle using that £20 back to back gauge from Exactoscale and Loctite 243 (Suitable? Didn't want to use 603 incase I needed to remove things). Black track in background is C&L Flexible track cut to size, middle is Exactoscale 'FastTrack' which reuires you slide the rail into it and foreground is Exactoscale Plain Line track with individually placed rail chairs glued on with Butanone and gauged using the gauges.
    The Butanone from Carr's was useless and I do wander if the mix is different. I thought butanone was butanone and that's all there is too it, clearly not. I don't lie when I said it performed like water, the other butanone adhesive from Wizard Models (packed for Exactoscale) was brilliant however, grabbed almost instantly and gave you some wiggle time too. Any ideas why?
    Next tests are plastic chairs on plywood sleepers, the plywood and rivet can wait until I have the correct tool. After the ply and plastic chair test it's time for me to work out how to do a curve. That isn't going to be easy - I haven't a clue.




    These are both the same diameter wheels ((I checked) 00 VS P4))but the difference between the tyre thickness and flange depths speak for itself.


    Those last pictures also clearly show a ggreat difference between 4mm '00' and 4mm 'P4' for standard gauge.
    Any help and advice appreciated.
     
    POST 2
     
    Had a mixture of success and faileur today.
    I thought I would have a go at Exactoscalefunctional chairs with S4 0.8mm Ply Wod sleepers.
    The template I used was printed off the computor but I think it has caused a few problems. I measured the sleeper spacings and from center to center they were 10mm's so I thought it'd be ok. When laying the sleepers over the double sided sticky tape on the plan the ends of the 8' 6" sleepers went past the template slightly and when I checked the rail gauge as printed it was under gauge being just over 18mm's. As this is just a constructional test I went ahead and can worry about the printer later. Any ideas on this printer issue? I'm happy to buy plain templates from stores if they have any but would also like to print correctly here.
    After laying the sleepers it was the usual game of chamfering the rail and sliding them on, easy enough, then once poked with tweezers into positions I glued the outer 3 of the top rail on both ends (6) as a tack joint. After doing more reading it would seem the center woul dhave been a better option - never mind.
    Then After preparing the other rail I tacked that at the center and then proceded to gauge and glue as I went along. This was easy but due to the template printing too small I encountered a problem. My 1st rail was placed exactly over the plan and so after gauging and whatnot the other rail wasn't exactly over the plan thus the outer edges of the sleepers stick out from the rail different distancies! Might be an idea to mark the sleepers but I'm unsure.
    Gauge party!

    This pic shows the sleeper problem

    Seems I got ALL the chairs on this side the worng way around in my haste, never mind for now.

    This I guess was bound to hapen, I read that it nearly always does and sadly I didn't have the cheapo double sided sticky tape that Norman Solomon reccomends in Right Track DVD 10. I will look out for it though.


    Completed after repair. Aprt from the aforemensioned problems and niggles there are a couple more, I missed two sleepers off so it's still short of a full pannel, and becasue the chairs are functional they like to slide about if your not too careful so the closer ones towards the ends are probably a bit out now.

     
    Any advice on the above would be great. At least it isn't a complete fail, the gauges and my lone axle'd wheel seem happy.
  12. Knuckles
    Update,
     
    The replacement sprung buffers have a small cap that needs to be soldered in place, but once that is done I found that the components were not supplied with a back buffer plate, and so I had to make my own. I did lose a cap but I made my own.

     
    The following photograph I recieved from Tom Biddle (A.K.A Blue Pioneer), and may I say thankyou again, for it is a great picture. For a while I've been debating with myself whether or not to discard the 'enclosed' coal rails that came with the kit or make some myself to represent the earlier 'open' type you see. Prototype photograhs show both types so it seems it's a case of location and time period.
     
    The following progress isn't to my eye perfect but it is I think good enough for now, and for the top rail a second attempt. The first wasn't bent outward enough. The second still isn't but better than it was.
     
    The picture below, showing the 3 middle posts to be wider. What I've used isn't wide enough I don't think but it's all I had to hand and I think underscaling is sometimes better than overscaling anyway. You will notice that inbetween the 2 rails there is in fact a 3rd that goes part the way through. The original plan was to add this also but since it seems I'd need thinner wire without it looking enclosed I decided to leave it off. Truth is, This is the only deicent photograph I have seen of the back and so I do not know for sure whether there was more than one design.
    Good thing is there is nothing stopping me adding the other rail later if I decide to.

     
    This is what I did, followed by two rails on the out side.

     
    And a jumble of views in attempt to save space and clutter.

     
    Although not bang on, what you think?
    Maybe get some thinner rod and redo the outside rails, including the 3rd because I think it's a little fat.
  13. Knuckles
    The Knapford Junction plan is still a location I very much want to model but so is Tidmouth MPD and after literally over 5 years of constantly re-planning these two locations due to space restraints (planning started way before I joined Scale4) I feel strongly that my hand is forced to backslide a wee. Because my ambitions are big and I ultimately do know what I want for the 'proper' layouts I'm going to have to do them in 00.

    I didn't want to believe me, I mentally have been kicking and screaming over it but truth is unless I manage to somehow buy a house with a big enough room one day it's either do it in 00 or never bother hoping situations will change and it not happening. I'm working on the latter but who knows in today's world.

    Anyway, I'm not 'going back to 00' in the classical sense. It was always my plan to try out P4 and see how I get on and that has been accomplished with the 6ft x 1ft test plank I got half way through. I concluded that I'm capable of modelling in P4 and like it very much so I have a series of end to end P4 layouts in the planning that I can build on top of the 00 ones in the loft. To that end, for anyone who may be getting worried or thinking I'm now a heretic, relax! P4 is staying. It has also been my plan for a while to make a 00 layout anyway as I have zero desire to convert everything in my 00 collection and it would be nice to still run what I have again.

    For the big layout I have to do it in 00 or I can't do it at all, it's as simple as that. The tighter curves and points are sadly mandatory for me to fit everything in.

    Now, to still make the big layout hopefully better than normal 00 I will be building the majority of the turnouts with C&L templates to 00-SF, Peco's new Bullhead track may be used and the points look ok but at the price point I can't realistically use them because for the past 8 months I have only been working 2 days most weeks for Best Connection, give or take. Some weeks it is nothing or 1 day or 3 or 5, but my stipulation is 2-3 most weeks and that has been working out so far. I'm literally 'floating' my savings and scraping by. Self imposed so I can actually do stuff in life and give more time to things that I enjoy or find important and to give SCC a boost.

    So, cost is a major major consideration. I already have the P4 gauges but for the 00 stuff it'll be £60-70 at least for initial outlay according to the C&L website, plus I will be buying the point blade filing jig from our S4 stores, add rail, sleepers, timbers and chairs and I'm looking at around £150-200 for initial costs at least. Not a lot I know but when you are not even making that in a week it is a lot. I want to use full depth sleepers/timbers by the way, 1.6 or 1.5mm.

    So, progress likely won't be quick. Neither am I kidding myself, I know 10-20 years or more is likely what a project this big may take if I don't want it to look and operate like a bag of nails.

    To that end progress has been made in the loft doing the framework for the biggy plans. So far we are about 35% complete. I have added some brackets for extra strength. Maybe not needed but I feel better with the extra security. Carpentry isn't my skill so feel free to cringe.







    The plan is not (emphasis on not) to build the whole layout in one shot. The plan is to build just the tunnel section on the width and operate it as a stand alone layout by itself. Only if/when operation is satisfactory will I even consider moving on. Assuming the tunnels are built the rest of the baseboards will still be built but they will form a massive 'train set' fiddle yard area for the time being.

    So if I move on then I will proceed to the top of the plan to Knapford Junction that is more complex. I may build the double slips (I built a working single one after all, doubles bit trickier) or I may fag out and save up for Peco bullhead ones when they come out. Undecided.) So if I build Knapford the same applies, only if/when operation is good enough and I'm happy will I even think of proceeding so then Knapford and the tunnels will be 'the layout' and the rest of the baseboards again will be a fiddle yard and roundy roundy loop all plugged in train set style.

    Assuming I don't throw big Knux wobbily again I'll proceed on to Tidmouth MPD. Rather complex though so...yeah we'll see.



    But remember the 4ft x 1ft board I salvaged from the N layout I did? It can be extended to 4' 3". It has to be so small if it is to fit in my room.

    This I want to do before I do anything in 00 and I'm thinking to do it in P4 as yet another test plank.

    I need to revise my track building skills AND I want to try some new methods. I tried Tortoise point motors with the built in polarity switches and I have tried Gaugemaster PM1 solenoids for Peco track and concluded I like them both. However mixing them could be awkward if I wire the CDU to the Tortoises, I imagine barbecued shelled animals stuck to the baseboard. So, I want to try wire-in-tube or maybe similar method. I've always liked real feel signal box lever frames and I could try this, or try a slide switch for polarity with a mechanical linkage - would certainly save up on a TON of wiring and it could be used with RTP track or hand built simultaniously.

    Point rodding I have always wanted to model and so I want to do this too, maybe only cosmetically but I want at least some of it to work like on Minories or Brettel Road. I find this most inspiring and interesting. Despite me maybe being a glutton for punishment and asking for trouble I feel I'm already half way there as the previous P4 plank had two working angle cranks on. One was over scale and cranked the wrong way and the second was a scale Brassmasters one. Both operated the turnouts flawlessly with side acting rods. However it was a bodge and the pressures were not right.

    Either way I know if I want to even consider any of these options as is normal I can't research forever and I need to get on with it. The 4" 3' board then will be a test bed for this evaluation. If it goes tits up then not a major issue.

    Due to the space restraints I'm thinking of grabbing the bull by the horns and attempting a 3 tandem turnout. Would provide good revision and practice all in one and the new operating methods could be tried. Point rods again would be modelled one way or another. Operating if possible.

    I understand I am potentially setting myself up for yet more frustrating and painful falls but the heart wants to get on with it. Any help, suggestions or anything appreciated. If you bothered and endured this whole ready my gratitude goes out to you.

    Will scrape a small loco and few wagons to shunt.

  15. Knuckles
    Working Leaf Springs For Wagons.
    I'll just like to say, I'm unsure if I'm the first to do this. Probably not yet maybe, I've yet to see a post on the subject until now so I hope so, but whatever, I'm rather happy I've managed to bring this idea into fruition.
     
    The idea has been cooking up in my head for a good while now.
    Firstly a disclaimer: Although unintentional, this post may erk Bill somewhat as the basis for this experiment is two of his spring units, and no doubt it's probably safe to say I've in this case definitely made the whole process rather complex, but never mind.
     
    I'll be using this wagon to add etched brake gear onto later. If I am to do this whole process again I need to find a consistent way of cutting the phosper bronze strip and also consistency as a whole. The spring rate is adjusted by spring length and bend amount and how free they are to move. Fixing them obviously stiffens them a little, but not that much. So far it's trial and error but I have managed to get a fair degree of difference between the different design slants and faffing about. Really pleased with how this has all turned out, now that I've finally got it to work. Finally, REAL leaf springs to spring the wagons, not other methods pretending to be leaf springs or compensation or whatever.
     
    Yes it's a ball ache and a faff about.
     
    Using MJT RCH castings and a wagon kit that requires this axlebox design, I set to work on my prototype.

     

     

     
    Visual collection.

     

     

     

     

     
    Please comment, whether for good or bad.
  16. Knuckles
    Apparently known to being one of the easiest 00 conversions to P4 known to mankind, I thought I'd give it a go.
    Conclusion, MEGA easy, however, I had some difficulties that you are unlikely to have, thus I'll post them first.
     
     
    before all that bother I had a short circuit that I didn't realise until the controller passsed out, I had a hammer accross the test track at the far end. MONG, so after that I changed controllers but loco was still almost dead, probably too hot. After the above quote the next day I went to my local Model Railway Club in Coventry and one of the guys had a look at it for me. His controller worked after a few tweaks and he deduced that I possibly hadn't put the wheels on the correct way because the 00 wheels have an insulated collar/washer on one side, I put it back together and it ran on the layout great. Anyway, content that it was me being thick I went home feeling better only to find that upon me testing it on my controller it was still 'Brrrring' again and doing not much. Perplexed at this I changed my controller back to the original one (that must have recovered) and wheeeynz! It was working! I had to muck about removing the bogey sides repeatedly becasue when you put them on they push the contacts out of position so when adjusting the pick-ups make sure you overdo them slightly to compensate. Now, awkwardness and most pitfalls aside I'll present the conversion.
    This is the standard modul upturned with 00 wheels and bogey keeper plate in place.

    This is a P4 Ultrascale wheel plonked for comparison purposes.

    I wasn't sure how to get the keeper plate off, hence all the scratch damage and abuse. The sheet with the model was useless and so was my internet serches. Rather than pinching what looks like sprung tabs you just have to literally force it off from underneith and not break it - great.

    Ignore the stray contact pick-up, lots of gears inside!

    This wheel is not in properly, if you look at the collars at each side of the axle they are too close in to properly fit into the 'U' shaped 'half pipe' axle holder/bush thingy. (I'm brilliant at describing things arn't I!?) this was only on 2 wheels and to sure it I gently filed a smidge off the half pipe things, wasn't complicated, just enough to shave about 0.3 of a mm or so. (rough guess) After which they fit in perfectly. Again, this was only on a couple. I did check the back to backs with a Exactoscale block and the wheelset was a tad tight, I eased it out but still had to trim the bogey body.

    00 wheels removed and contacts bent out a bit (refer to the above problem, bend them more than nessasary for the boget sides that pull away move them when replaced)

    P4 wheels literally 'dropped in', they don't call them drop in wheel sets for nothing! And after replace the keeper plate by pushing at various angles. Job done, I tested it on my bit of stray C&L track it ran perfect, went round a curve I bent that must have been no more than 15 or so inches radius, I kid you not.

     
    Hope that's helped somebody.
    Apart from my problems that you shouldn't have had it was well easy. First P4 conversion successfull. [Tick]

  17. Knuckles
    Rather than call this, 'Moving to P4 Post 41' I think I can safely say I have now 'Moved to P4', Although 00 isn't 100% abandoned. I'd like your opinion on whether you think it's safe for me to call myself a P4 modeller yet. I would rather have it collectively said of me than me say it becasue I know I'm still new to it. Opinions please.
     
    Ok...
     
    As some of you may know, I'm going to try to build two LBSCR E2 locomotives, the first one as a straight E2, and the second as a slight kitbash. Both are going to be an enathema to some of you as I'm basing them on 'Thomas', but hopefully in a way more realistic than may have been seen before.
    I've only built one working locomotive before and that was a fixed axle 0-6-0 in 00. It ran but not brilliantly, it sometimes derailed on the straights and was sometimes jerky at slow speeds, ergo, I have next to no experience. I'm comfortable soldering and bashing things, but getting a chassis to run well is something I fear greatly, especially when one consideres the cost of kits and components; not great if you make a boo boo of it all. Any advice I greatly welcome, and as usual I'll be documenting the progress in this thread. This time I'm going to try to do it with hornblocks.
    Kits arrived today, proof....
     

     
    After haveing a quick look through it seems I need to make my own tank extensions. Not happy about that at all, I was hoping not to have to kit bash until the 2nd model. Considering there were only 10 Real E2's and half of them had bigger tanks you would have thought they would be supplied in the kit as optional parts, but no.
    The chassis needs little bits removed for the E2, just a warning.
    Also I need to buy is motors and gearboxes for both of them but that's why I waited so I can now asses what to buy, suggestions welcome.
    Wheels, axles, crankpins, P4 spacers, better buffers etc I already have recieved in post.
     
     
    POST 2
     
    First off, lets just say you need to be prepared to do ALOT of remedial work, and I don't mean just the flash. The kits has loads of flash, but I'm about 70% through building the body and NO components fit without severe filing, and I do mean severe. Ive been on it 6 or 8 hours today and I'm convinced that I could have done it in 2 hours if the peices actually fit together properly...we are talking a full 1mm too much casting in some areas I kid you not. I battle on and pick up experience along the way.
    To be fair, the kit is very old and maybe the tooling could do with being updated or something, I don't think it'd badly designed or anything but it isn't impressing me much in the buildability department, gimmi etches anyday. I don't know if this is normal for white metal kits as my only experience with them is detailing parts, but whatever, I'm determined not to let it win. Oh yeah, the hand rail pillars have been drilled out on the half indented guide holes...but they don't all register, neither are the dome and chimney holes central. :shock: So how can I say the kit is accurate? I don't want to slate it but I'm finding it hard not to.
    The instructions keep talking about glue but I decided to ignore that and just get my 70 degree solder out. My iron is variable from 200-450c, so I set it to 200. So far I've found it to be perfect, melts the solder, Carrs Green flux to flow and so far no holes in the castings or self formed sculptures, and I have diddled around with the tip a bit. Maybe I'm just lucky.
    1st picture. Like a deranged eliphant I took this picture thinking how successful I was....then noticed I put the bufferbeam on the wrong end. :x Tit.

    Sorted.

    I ordered some sprung buffers from Alan Gibson but wern't sure if they were the right ones or not. They look smaller here in this pic and I was going to ask your opinion, but since looking at prototype E2 photographs they indeed are smaller than the height of the bufferbeam, whereas the caseted buffers are as deep as the buffer beam, ergo, the casted one are likely a shade too big, plus one buffer on each beam is casted at a funny angle. :? Think I'll replace them with these brass efforts.

    The running plate looked more like a bananna. I had to bend it alot. Stil isn't 100% perfect now but I've done the best I can.

    An idea of the flash level

    The smokebox wouldn't fit on properly and I think I' spent at least 2 hours pidelling with it. The saddle needed bashing and the instructions said this too. So the pictures tell the story. It still isn't perfect in my opinion but again, I've done the best I can. The gap I will have to fill.

    Tank fronts. I filled the gap with solder then this picture shows it half way to being filed smooth.

    Every E2 kit I've seen has a join mark at the front curve. I'm trying not to follow suit. The last two pics show the same method. Solder fillet and shaped afterwards, although it needs a little bit more work still. Massive gap as it joins the tank covers needs filling - this was due to me having 2 or so hours trying to get it to fit properly.


    Ok, that's it for now. Comments welcome.
  18. Knuckles
    I think after I'm going to buy a Hornby body and have another go with that. Truth is I think this old kit body is pretty horrid.
    I naively thought at the time of planning, simply being a 'kit' the model would be far superior as a base to detail over the old Hornby plastic one but after having a good look I think I was wrong.
     
     
    I don't know what is the most accurate in terms of basic dimentions so last night I measured my metal body to that of my Hornby Thomas, which is basically an E2 with a few tweaks and it seems the Hornby one is 2mm's shorter and about 2mm's fatter. I don't know which is more accurate but to be honest Im unsure if It matters that much. Both models seem to have pro's and con's.
    Hornby's running plate is thicker and to my eye more correct when compared to prototype, yet the metal ones are too thin, conversely the running plate curves at each end I think are more flowingly accurate on the metal one but hard to build neat, whereas the Hornby one has them too tall and sharp an angle. The metal one has a better detailed and shaped smokebox saddle plus rivet detail on the tanks, but the Hornby has the 'lip' around the tank tops and bunker, an open cab, plus a thinner more realistic roof and bunker lamp irons etc.
     
    So taken together it seems each option has things going for it and things against it.
    I'd like your thoughts on this as I'm seriously thinking of just tweaking a Hornby E2 slightly. Nothing fancy, just tank extensions and a couple of details.
    About 30 minutes ago I decided to cut out the doors and re-do them. The first was easy enough, the second however split the cab roof off, broke part of the ill fitting running plate and generally buggered everything up, so much so that I couldn't seem to get it back and in line very easily. These two pictures tell the story...
    ?


    ?
    Many appologies to those who may have been disapointed or even offended at this, but it had to be done I'm afraid. It just isn't worth any more of my time and effort for a base model that clearely doesn't want to co-operate, and is so disapointingly thick, ill fitting and crude to begin with that amongst literally hours of (what should be unnessasary) remedial work, will ultimately require a wealth of extra detailing work that the Hornby one already has. Sorry.
    ?
    I'm not angry, but relieved, I actually found it rather funny. I haven't gave up on the chassis.
    ?
    Right, mr Ebay, where are you.....
    ?
    ?
    Plastic looks sharper and thinner, white metal I've lost faith with as a base. It's just too bloody crude.
  19. Knuckles
    The E2 project isn't abandoned, I just need to get around to doing the body.
     
     
    Ok, so, I haven't been on recently much as has been established for a bunch of reasons. My modelling progress has ground down to a halt and I've made little progress on my layout. Well, really it's almost none as I have been 'waggoning' more than anything and before I make much progress on the layout I wish to get Dingham couplings fitted to a enough examples to accurately test if I like them. This means I need to establish a few wagons fitted with them to give the electro-magnets enough to play with. Is 4 enough?
    Letters and numbers a bit messy as they are a swine to apply. Coal rave removable. (I just bent the legs outward to provide springing, easy!)


    As you can see by my above two trucks, they have now both received tare weights and such like, yet probably not without error as my research in the matter seems to show more variance than standard answers, also to my surprise the bigger the truck and the more planks does not give accurate estimation of capacity as you can have smaller examples with a higher rating. Oh well. I've done my best and made up a style that I hope is believable; certainly they look much more complete now. "The 4mm Wagon PART ONE - Opens, Minerals and Hoppers (by) Geoff Kent" has been my main reference and research tool and what a great book it is too.
    The following is a little example of how awkward things can get sometimes, but with perseverance a result can be obtained. I brought a second hand flat tanker and wished to convert it, sadly just swapping the wheels on this one gave ropey performance and so I needed some form of springing or compensation. Unlike the Bill Bedford units that I have been using a lot, I thought I'd try out some MJT Compensation Units. Partly for experimental reasons of product and method type, and partly due to me not wanting to hack the W Irons to bits. I've found this to be 'doable' on a kit but with an RTR example where everything is as one, it's a bit more difficult.
    So...

    I removed a wheel-set, Ultrascale in this case (I have to say, as much as I like their loco' wheels, I don't like the wagons wheels - not going to waste though)
    and after some filing and gentle hacking managed to get the pivot base in place, but...
    Oh dear! Not going to be simple.

    So, I guess it's time for some severity with another classic Knux bodge job. Body / tank off, cut accommodation hole for the unit to drop through, pack edges with plastic card. Very crudely I might add, as it's out of view I made zero attempt to do it nicely.
    Ugly.

    Superglue blooming is obvious. I took little care with the packing. As I hope you can see this was done to provide a base for a false floor within the tank. It was estimated and 'dummy ran' until the desired height was achieved. Due to the weight now being in the way I had to push glue it inside the tank further up. This also gave opportunity to trap some extra lead weight in there too behind the weight as you may be able to see. True, the centre of gravity is a bit higher, but not enough to cause issues.

    Flipped over.

    And err, done. Result! What a faff that was, it runs better now, just not as smooth and free flowing as springs, but it seems to do it's job so I'm happy.

    -
    Topside with Dingham couplings installed. On this wagon I had to deform the couplings slightly to change heights but they still work. Probably my error.

    Next to another wagon kit that I built up. As yet this is the first time you have seen it, no tare weights yet though.

    Next to another wagon I built. This is another fictitious livery. In my reference books there was a Sudrian pre 1915 NWR railway called the Wellsworth & Suddery, so I've had a stab at a 'might be'.

    Next to an old 1978 Airfix brake van I brought from the model railway club for £2, (can't whinge) even better is the fact that when I popped some P4 wheels in, it decided to run beautifully and still does. Rare indeed! Clearly I need to paint the (I think) sole bars grey and the detail is dated to say the least...and the brake shoes are in line with the W Irons, but again, £2 for a sweet easy conversion. I can live with that. It offers scope for future fiddling's if I fancy also.

    P4 wagon line-up thus far. The far left 3 are Dingham fitted, plus the brake van on the right. The rest are 3 links, most of which couple up to the Dingham's - yet a few have an attitude problem and will not co-operate. Never mind.

    This pic I just think looks nice. I'm quite happy with my weathering and painting. The coal rave extensions on one wagon are removable.

    Sorry if the picture quantity is undesirable. It has been a long time since I posted anything that may be interesting though.
    What you think?
  20. Knuckles
    Here is a massive paste of the construction for Fury. I'm still getting used to the layout of RMweb so forgive my shotgun method of posting if it's crap. Please forgive the 2nd nature of the below posts. It's all compiled from the other forums but now presented here for you.
     
     
     
     
    I have started with Bachmann's parallel boiler Royal Scot model as a base. The model is nice enough but a little lacking in detail and proportion if you ask me, but never mind. I removed most of the detail and pipes etc and a boiler band. I used balsawood to make rough formers for the one peice plasticard wrapping. The formers have been filed to shape and the wrapping..well, wrapped around! Took a few attempts to get it looking right which is why there are a few chronological errors in the pictures. The pictures show up all the bad points but it'll be ok in the end, at the cab it is too high as shown but it presses down, just need to fix it. This is i think the most important peice of the whole structure, as long as I get this right everything else will follow.
     
    More plasticard and Evergreen strip is on it's way in the post.
     
    As new

     

     

     
    Detail removed and formers added
     

     

     

     

     

     
    Wrapping
     

     

     

     
    -----------------
     
    Ok guys, the top of the firebox cab join is in process of being fixed. It's been glued down and I'm now waiting for the miliput to dry so I can shape and file it all smooth - I had to fill a few holes in where the thin plasticard dishaped itself slightly due to the glue. it's looks a terrable mess currently but I know once I'm done it will be fine. You may also notice the sides of the wrap around at the front have been extened by roughly 1.5mm's, the join is visible on the photographs, made sure of that. It would help if I had a proper paper scale drawing on my desk to set my calipers to but I haven't so for now I am estimating by eye from photpgraphs and scale'ish' drawings on computor screen. i still rekon when all is completed it'll be fine though. Seeing as the base model isn't amazingly accurate in scale and proportion I don't think it will turn out too bad! We'll have to see.
     
    I have already explained the work on the firebox wrap around so I will continue with the other bits, in hindsight though I think a think brass wrap around would have been far better, but never mind. Always learning.
     
    Currently looks dire, but wait until it's done.

     
    Look at photographs and drawings it seems the bufferbeam needs extending. This being thecase I wished to retain the steps that are moulded onto the whole body. A series of careful scores with a Swan Morton scalpel blade (handel number 3) followed by a few underneith cuts did the trick better than i could have hoped. Usually when I remoeve detail i destroy it, but seeing as I wished to retain this detail I had to try this out - win.
     

     

     
    Next it was a case of brutality, bye bye!
     

     
    Roughly where the bufferbeam should be when finished.
     

     
     
    Edit: After reading this I noticed it's full of typo's but I cannot be bothered to amend things yet.
     
    --------------
     
    A mini bashing lesson.
     
    I was hoping to have more done at this set of pictures but I need more time to decide how to do the dome.
     
    the front of the new firebox is almost done, as you can see on the left side that part is finished, to achieve that you cut a bit of plasticard roughly, as long as the curve matches the boiler your laughing.

     

     
    Once glued snip the excess

     

     

     
    then file it to get it smooth and flush like the left side, easy.
     
    The middle is neglected because the dome is going there, so I didn't care to it much as the gap will be covered.
     
     
    These pics also show the firebox irregularities, these are being sorted with more filler now. For this job Humbrol Model Filler is being used instead this time as it's more suited to this job over Milliput IMO. Coming along though. Next pics should be the dome modelled.
     
    ---------------
     
    I have been working on the firebox wrap around a fair bit, filling and filing etc. Only problem is it looks like nothing has been achieved, but I asure you it has. More work still needed there though.
     
    Dome has been started. Balsa wood formers cut roughly and superglued in place and my favorite on top. Milliput.
     
    I was going to use this green bogey putty thing that Simon suggested but haven't. (I do intend getting some though)
     
    The rough shape of the dome has been wet sculpted and I'm waiting for it to dry, then it's just a case of dry sculpting it into the correct shape. Because I have purposely made it too big means I can file back carefully into shape with more room for error. Must admit, I'm looking forward to this one, sculpting is another skill I literally found myself to be a natural at with pretty much no practice, much to the amazement of half the school and myself. I'll have to show you all one day what it was.
     
    Anyway, progress....
     



     
    -----------------------
     
    I present the DOME! It's not quite finished but it might aswell be, basically it's finished but I keep tweaking it, and it needs a tad of filler at the firebox. The firebox still needs work because it's evidently still uneven in places, but it'll be ok in the end. The dome has been sculpted out of the dried Milliput with scalpel, files and emery/glass paper stuff. It isn't perfect in profile or indeed perfectly even, but I'm pretty happy with the result, especially considering this was a 100% scratch build done by eye only. The front of the dome can be sculpted backward if need be for positioning of the boiler band. Different drawings and photographs seem to differ as to exact positioning and the base model I'm using doesn't match all of the reference material in a single configuration against other components to correctly plot the position, but we will get by.
     
    This might have took an hour and a half, it might have took 3, I really am not sure, was in a world of my own! I remember looking at the cock at about 3 and thinking 12 was the last I saw, but I'm unsure. It's been a rather absorbing session.
     

     

     

     

     

     

     
    I love Milliput, it's my baby
     
    8-)
     
    -------------------
     
    I have spent an hour or 3 modelling and am fairly pleased with what has been done.
     
     
    The running plate has been extended and just needs the frame support things scratch built, the steps adding and the sides cleaned up with the lip added. Guess work using a veriety of sources.
     
    the stripes down the side have been a fair challenge to get right; they aren't bang on but I am happy enough. I have no scale drawings to work off on paper and the base model isn't perfectly accurate as I keep saying, so I'm pleased anyway.
     
    Plotting the 2 outermost stripes have been (like most the model) guess work and estimation based on the photographs and drawings of Fury on my computor. I think I would have atained a better result had I used thinner plasti' strip rather than 1mm wide, but I'll crack on with it anyway. Looking at multiple drawings it seems that the gap format between stripes from the cab forward is, Fat, Thin, Thin, Fat.
     
    I've estimated this with these caliper things shown in the pictures using increments of 10, 8, 8, 10. I don't know the names of those increments as they were based on inches. The reason for this is because the increments were easier to plot the 2 standards in relation to each other. Black marker and a scratch from the calipers did the job.
     
     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     
     
    Not perfect, but I rekon a pass. Fairly happy.
     
     
    8-)
     
    -------------------------
     
    The smokebox sides have been cut out, was a real pain being roughly 5mm's thick.
     

     
    Here I have added what I think are hinges and latches for firebox access plus scored out the panel lines that are seen on some pictues.
     

     

     
    The pump has been started. I tried Milliput at 1st but it didn't look right so I have got some 6mm Balsa wood cylinder and filed it down abit, then it has been wraped in plasticard. Looks crude currently.
     

     
    Pump start plonked for photographic idea of result

     

     
    Cab roof has had vent and slide removed in preparation for 2 smaller ones. unsure if these rivets need removal also. Any info welcome.
     

     
    Next dome has been started with Milliput and Modelfiller, need to do the smaller one after also.
     

     
    Bogey wheel arches / Frame extensions have been remodelled and..well, extended to fall in line with the plans. The gaurd irons will be added after to complete the look.
     

     

     
    Overall impressions
     

     

     
    -
     
    maybie it doesn't look that much different, but alot has been done.
     
    ---------------------
     
    Another update. The main drum on the pump is now on it's 3rd attempt, but I'm much happier with this one. Evergreen plastic strip helped as they do cylinders. So I used 6.3mm tubing I think it was. Other than that I have about completed all 3 domes now. The 2 small ones need a mini tweak but are basically complete. They just need the smallest bit of filler and smoothening out. The straight dome was made using a bit of plastic card glued down, and then model filler around the edges - easy.
     
    Ignore the multitude of file scratchings, it looks worse than it is. Still feels smooth.
     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     
     
    --------------------
     
    I've reduced dome sizes and dressed the long one forward abit. These pics do not show them in polished form as I haven't even sculpted them to shape yet, but just to give you an idea.
     

     

     
    Apart from the lack of sculpting how's it looking there? Please compare it to the above posts to see changes better.
     
    -------------------
     
    Ding ######
     
    Pumps are 98% complete and the domes re now also 98% complete. Apart from the usual shape tweaks consider them finished.
     



    Long mini dome complete, the other small one is almost done but looks rather like a fairy cake here. Will be sorted.





     
    Yeah, getting there.
     
    --------------------
     
     
    My Evergreen pipes have arrived. First one has been bent to shape and glued on, bracket scratch built as per the drawings. Abit crude, but I'm rather happy with the impression it gives. It's just abit of scrap strip glued to the boiler, the pipe glued to that, and then a longer strip glued on top and bent around it, rather like the real Omega Brackets (or whatever they are called).
     




     
    ------------------
     
    Super Update!
     
    Bet your all in a FURY with me having no update for over a month. Hahaha, No? No, I didn't find it funny either, I'm just typing crap while the pictures uplaod. Anyway, erm, yes, update...
     
    Haven't modelled much in the past month due to a multitude of personal problems that I'm overwhelmed by, but never mind that for now. been modelling this morning and authough things arn't bang on I'm happy enough.
     
    Original side hand rails are added but with the hand rail pillars moved and also another rail in 7mm brass, I didn't have any pillars for these so I cheated by drilling the hole out until they snaped leaving just a cresent, then soldering a blob to represent the ball of the pillar! Easy.


     
    I hope you can see these shots of the box things at the side of the smoke box saddle, I drilled a hole in them for the brass wires.


     
    3 pillars were slid onto this 0.45mm brass wire. Perfect for hand rails and I think it is a standard size. It's what I always use anyway and the pillars rarely need reaming out to fit. Brass wire bent into shape and pillars added.

     
    Wire fittted, was a swine to locate, bit of a fight.


     
    On the horizontal drum on top of the pump you may just be able to see I have drilled a hole. I then made a plastic square.

     
    The square was trimmed and drilled to take another brass wire/pipe.

     
    Pipe fitted with one hand rail pillar. I had to rebend it slightly to match the profile so these pis arn't consistant.



     
    This urm..thing needed a tweak so I drilled a hole in to accept more wire, this time 7mm.

     
    Which was then fitted onto the boiler side with a bit of shaped brass that links to the main brass pipe. Another small square has been added to the smokebox side.



     
    Angles arn't 100% perfect but good enough. Components and bends are a tad overscale I'd say. You may also notice the whole thing is badly gummed up with glue, but I know from previous experience not to worry as I can clean it up pretty well prior to painting. Also need rivets and more detail as it isn't all added yet.
     
    Final impressions thus far.



     
    8-)
     
    --------------------
     
    Another mini update linked to the one above. The plastic box that is under the main pump drum was positioned about 1.5-2mm's too close to the running plate edge. So I have bent the wire away and removed the boxes, used a slitting disk to destroy the plastic and then fitted the boxes closer inside. This time I used a bit of PCB instead as the thickness was about perfect. Also a comparison of the prototype to see accuracy. Compare.
     



     
     
    -
     
     
    EDIT: Another update!
     
    More pipe work added. Please forgive the glue, will be cleaned up later.
     

     

     

     
    Other than 1 pipe and a few rivets, this side is about done. 5 amp fuse wire was used for the baby pipes. They are mounted on a plasticard disc I made with a trimmed plastic handrail pillar popped into a pre drilled hole.
     

     
    --------------------
     
    Update! And this time it's interesting.
     
    I drilled a hole in some plastic tube, and then drilled a fatter hole in also. Then I had to make some thin brackets and bobs to bash mock valve gear additions. The valve gear the model comes with has a special coating on so that needed scraping off to adhere to the solder and flux. Being a material less suited to what I have I had the iron on 450c to actually make it all work. But it does so I'm happy, see what you think. Brass rod formed the piston. The best thing about this is, it actually works with zero problems.
     
    Also I have added a 'lump' to the main dome, added the lamp irons, steps and gaurd irons. The lamps may be trimed a tad though but unsure yet.
     

     
    IN

     
    OUT

     
    There is alot of excess solder on that as you can see, so I might file it away later.
     
    Impressions

     

     
    Jobs to do:
     
    Solder tender together.
    Clean body work up.
    Prime it all.
    Add the rivet transfers (on top of the primer).
    Paint it.
    Line it.
    Add front coupling and brake/vacuum pipe.
    Add cylinder drain pipes.
    -
     
    I'm still naffed off with the incorrect drum height but I think I'll leave that for now, 'MIGHT' do it one day if I can get the heart to, but if I do that will be after the competition/meet up.
     
    8-)
     
    ------------------------
     
     
    Last set of pictures before completion.
     
    The tender I actually made a pigs ear of. Gordon's (My 1st brass soldering kit) went together rather nicely. James's (my 2nd) I hardly read the instructions and that went together fine also. This one however went together badly, reason? I didn't look at the instructions much! But unlike before I made some stupid mistakes......complacency. As a result I soldered the tender sides on the wrong way, this means I had to fill the drilled holes out and then drill new holes on the opposite side. This wasn't a problem but because the insides of the sides are different it caused complications and the back peice wouldn't go on properly and was, as an estimate, about 1-1.5mm's too far back! I fixed this by going evil with a tough file and eating it away. The back peice then went on better but was too high requiring me to chop it at the top and then add a brass rod to reinstate the 'lp'. The gaps were filled with thick solder blobs and then filed/sculpted to shape, consequently the dimensions are abit out in places but the good thing is it isn't that obvious. I'm happy with the repair bash.
     
    The other problem was the plate you stand on was soldered in the wrong place, I couldn't unsolder it because it was stuck fast so I had to force it out with pliers. This cockled the tender sides badly.
     
    Filling and filing solder just made it worse so I have had to use Humbrol Model Filler, looks ok now. (didn't photograph that bit!)
     
    The moral of the story? Over confidance and complacency can get you in trouble, read the instructions. Still, I got some great bash practice in and I'm really happy with the result, it didn't beat me.
     
    Loco and tender connector is crude but it's my preferable way of joining it. Literally a crude loop and hook. Gordon rolls nicely like this with no problem. Also the fall plate and doors are abit of scrap plastic card. Everything in this paragraph looks rough and I haven't bothered making it neat, this is because once it's painted it's hard to tell, especially as it's all 'in' the cab area. I don't mind the lack of perfection but if it looks naff after paint then I'll tweak it - easy.
     
    Ok, pictures below. The only things left are to add the whistle, rivets, front coupling and brake pipe, paint and line. That literally is it, can't wait.
     

     

     

     

     

     
    That's it, other pics are the completed pics.
     

     
     
     
     
  21. Knuckles
    Success!
    About 6 years ago I had a bash at converting a standard Bachmann 57xx into a RWS 'Duck', it was nothing more than a face addition, balsa wood sandboxes (Ugh, replacement ideas please?), a couple of paint tweaks, brass number plates...and that's about it. I have been looking for another pannier of the same part number to have another go with more accuracy and care, however it seems Bachmann have discontinued it as I can't find one anywhere. Hopefully they will re-release it. Anyway, I've had the Ultrascale conversion kit for a while but it hadn't matured enough in my draw for me to use it. Seeing as I'm not ready to tackle the E2 body's for that loco, I thought it an idea to get this one done instead, now that I have enough Dingham couplings on the wagons to test with.
    So this is basically what I did.
    I had a PDF that was very helpful and I followed some of it, but not all. Here is the link for it...
    http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CC8QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ultrascale.com%2Fsites%2Fdefault%2Ffiles%2Freviews%2Freview01.pdf&ei=QbjWUZmeG-TH0QWavYCgBw&usg=AFQjCNG3d1YGVN6h62Vk8V_libbsSfjyJw&sig2=IDnm_Tc0X_xcHEsW0EdvNA
    I think we all know now that Ultrascale cost a packet and take about 6 months to arrive, but whatever. They come in a nice little box, each wheel set is quartered on it's axle and 'back to back' set already. The gear is even fixed on for you. It says it is for the 8750 but it's ok for the 5700's also.

    You just remove the two extreme ended screws to remove the body, then two inner ones to remove the frame and wheels. Luckily I managed to nab myself a Hornby crankpin screw driver and it works beautifully. I've struggled with tweezers and pliers rounding them off too many times. it's a shame the companies didn't supply these things easier, it's also a shame that buying only loco bodies from RTR manufactures is like persuading a cat to eat a stick of celery, but never mind. I didn't bother removing the plug as in the PDF as I didn't feel the need.

    As pointed out in the PDF, the centre axle has a really neat way of springing things, it is I suppose you could say a 'half-bush' that hugs most of the axle with a spring on top. The 00 wheels against the P4 ones look odd.

    You have to either remove the brake pull rods and replace them, or thin them out as they are too fat. I chose to thin them.
    Using a file at first I almost fell of my chair in boredom, so then I whipped out the mini drill and made a mess. Eventually I found the easiest way was to just lay the thing on its side and shave it with a brand new scalpel blade. The plastic flexes enough so that it lays flat while you go about it. The rear pipes also needed shaving, but again, this wasn't too much of a bother thankfully.

    I failed to mention, the Ultrascale wheels also come with crankpins pre fixed and with a retainer already threaded on. Bonus. The standard Bachmann coupling rods fit the Ultrascale pin bushes perfectly. I can't say how they would be if you sourced replacement rods however. Balance weights also come with the package and for fitment positions I just referred to the original 00 wheels. It must be said, like the doughnut I am, I lacked the foresight to fit them before the conversion, so instead I had to struggle around things and struggle I did! Superglue probably wasn't the wisest choice but after I scraped away the 'bloom' they don't look bad at all. Maybe a bit of paint is in order. It might just be me and my bodging but I had to shave the weights slightly as they were fouling the clearances. All good now.

    Done. (Any ideas how to re-instate the 'wheel handle thing' on one of the tank fillers? Snapped it didn't I.)
    I've gave the wheel centres a touch of black paint, also the retaining screws paint also to hide the shiny brassy look, and hopefully will be sufficient to stop them un-expectantly turning into Frisbee's. I have Metal Black but am unsure how to use it to good effect, so maybe later.
    I'm still thinking at a future date doing the whole RWS 'Duck' thing again, but it'll suffice for now. The chassis seems happy on the layout. Also I fitted a Dingham coupling to the rear of the loco, but not the front.

    Hope that's alleviated some fears. As conversions go it has a reputation for being an easy one, and I'll agree to that, although it probably took me a couple or three hours, unsure.
    Next task I guess is to start installing the electro-magnets on the layout.
    What you think?
  22. Knuckles
    Mini update. Where I accidently filed the rivets smooth I've drilled holes, inserted .45mm brass rod with superglue. Then they were clipped off and filed. I just need to finish cleaning them up, removing the glue and fine tune the tank extension shape as the join is smooth to the touch now. Also added the grab handle seen in photographs.
    Bunker gone! Will scratch build my own. Chimney position looks crap here so might resolder it.
    Accupuncture pin cushion

    Nails clipped and filed, still needs a manicure though

    Serious surgery.

    rf
  23. Knuckles
    Like on my other blog entries the majority is just selected pastes from other forums so please forgive the second hand feel of it all.
     
     
    Construction starts:

     
    Gearbox & Motor. The chassis frame had the cut out on the left, my new hole is in the middle

     
    Hole seen clearer here, also the running plate has its inside edges butchered. You will also notice the brake block brackets are away from the propper hole, they were there, but again cus wheels have had to move them.

     
    Look at the edges of the chassis tops, not level, cut to compensate new wheels, tested with wheels and motor etc, all happy, however, there is a chance the side rods might catch, if so I'll just put a few washers in the connection screws fro the running plate & chassis, no worries.

     
    Look at the original shape of the front cab windows, not very James like.

     
    So I cut abit of brass sprue off and filed the edges so it would fit in virtically, it was soldered and smoothed with files. The bottom curved part of the window was also from spare metal, viced and filed to provide the curves, x2. That was then soldered to the cab control side and smoothed with files. The gap at the front was filled with solder, again shaped after.

     

     
    The finished result (Not really, it has since ben 'equilised' and is more neat al round, but you get the idea)

     
    ---
     
    I'm rather pleased with the progress so far, the success of the cab bash has supprised me very much, need to be carefull when putting the cab together, otherwise it will all fall apart, the windows.
     
    What you rekon so far? Need to get fibre washers and possibly some PCB before I can made my next major progression.
     
    --------------------------
     
    The other night I spent 15 hours straight with only a piddle I think, when I put my mind to something time zooms by! That was then, since then have done alot more also. Anyway, alot of time has been spent trouble shooting and tweaking, but I'm happy enough now so things have moved on. It runs ok, smooth but with a tittle of grinding occasionally, good enough though, 1st proper kit you see, thing is occasionally on corners it derails, then other times it doesn't, even stranger is when it slips off a mild corner rather than sharper, does what it want's, but there you go, needs more tweaking and I found weight added cures most of that. Also the firebox/boiler/cab relationship is abit ropey, had to cut a section out the saddle because the boiler was looking upwards but it'll pass, just. Cut a chunk of boiler out to fit motor in and it was ok, then it decided to short all the time, added insulation tape, spent hours piddeling about untill I made the decision to take the wheels off and turn them plus the moror & gear box around and basically refit everything backwards including the wires for the contacts I made, did it eventually and it actually works a little better now. The bit of boiler cut out will be re-instated later.
     
    I have had to do alot more scratch building that I thought to, because I'm using wheels that scale to 5' 6" (On of James official modification) rather than 5' 1" I have had to lower the body on the frames a tad and make new splashers that are roughly 1.5-2mm bigger, and as the pics below show the difference is vast indeed, definetly not mild! The Fowler tender height annot be perfected though because any lower and the crankpins touch the valance producing a short, it's not that bad looking I don't think. It has took me no less than 5 hours making just '3' splashers, and they are not finished yet either, needs more tweaking and one needs alot more work. Plus the other 3. Covers are to be last. Oh yeah, the rear splasher looks odd comparred to the rest because I followed the lines of the original flowing curve, so I presumed it would look the way I have done it, I 'might' however go loopy and make it more angular, hope not though.
     
    I will also have to make my own smokebox saddle seeing as I am not using the splasher/sandbox set up. Also, the funnel on these things in real life had a choice where they lived, where does it look best to you? I have looked in the RWS pics and it is in both positions on different pics. (no supprise : )
     

     
    front position

     
    back position

     
    Teasing impression, oh yesh!

     
    As I say, it isn't perfect because I have much to learn, but definetly getting there. Where you rekon the funnel should go?
     
    ------------------------
     
    been up all night again ( I do it accasionally when jobless) working on James.
     

     
    Running plate bashed, smokebox saddle bashed, boiler bottom re-instated, other splasher done, hand rails on, reverser rod thing on, just need to add splasher covers, cab side beading, whistle, and buffer beam stuff, then that's it, do the tender and paint. Need to holow out the chimney though, gulp.
     
    ----------------------------
     
    I know this post isn't going to wow anyone because what is on offer isn't vastly different thn before. Soldering bits cae today but my handle is knackered, so I'll have to get a new one, in the mean time I have been using an 'el cheapo' £5 iron, not great but useable at least. Takes 3 years to get hot though.
     
    Ok, notice the scratch built splashers and smokebox saddle are now complete, lest for the rear. Cabside beading also done.

     
    rear complete

     

     

     

     
    In the above pics look at the brakes, I have added them but probably won't add the hangar rodding because of the pick ups underneith. Also notice the front brake..... looks crap doesn't it? Thin. That is because occasionally it was shorting with the front pony, in real life it wouldn't be an issue for 3 reasons:
     
    1) The brakes in reality are much closer to the drivers
    2) the pony wouln't be negosiating 'trainset curves'
    3) the flanges would be much smaller.
     
    So for those reasons you will have to imagine the brae is full size, because I have had to reduce it to that abysmal sliver, never said I was perfect. At least it has them, Honby James has none.
     
    Spent a few hours holowing out the chimney and cut a hole for a smoke gen to go in.

     

     
    Buffers added, what a difference it makes!

     

     
    And so, I'm getting very close.
     
     
    EDIT: Just had a lightbulb style idea!
     
    can make the front brakes and rods from plastic, thus curing the shortout problems. 8-)
     
    -----------------------------
     
    It will have in cab detail but not loads, more an impression. I am in process of building a custom cab floor. It won't look right as all the heights are pickled because of the bigger wheels, however, it will be painted black and hopefully will serve as the 'impression' Cheap way out yes.
     
    I have a problem. When I run the engine the middle insulated wheel likes to set itself on fire and smoke! Obviously it is a short but here is the catch, if you run it through on max untill the motor passes out, wait about 10-20 secs and repeat a few times, eventually it is eliminated and it runs super sweet as before, slow even, I'm currently convinced it is excessive oil conducting electricity where it isn't welcome, seeing as this seems to be a reacuring issue that gets solved the same way. I did oil it heavy before.
     
    ?
     
     
     
    EDIT: Uploading pics...
     
     
    You can kinda see the crap in the cab, isn't finished.

     
    You can see the plastic brake, not bothering with the shape too much, paint will disguise.

     
    Coupling and brake pipe and roughness.

     
    So there you have it, I need to do:
     
    Lamp Irons
    Repair Chimney
    Pony guard irons
    Brake rodding
    finish cab interior
    clean up and smooth.
    Tender
    Painting and finishing off
    Whistle will be added after painting.
     
    If it looked odd the chimney was just 'plonked' on for te pics, will be stuck with bluetack because I can't get a smoke gen' in or out otherwise. Dome needs tweaking also. The whole model isn't fully in line because of an unknown balls up. It'll be ok before the end though.
     
     
     
    Hope you like these because that's it now, no more pics untill the whole thing is finished completely.
     
    ----------------------------
     
    That's about it.
     
    In hindsight now it's complete when I redo the chassis I might extend the running plate a tad, who knows.
     
     
  25. Knuckles
    Before I do much more on the body I want to start the dreaded chassis.
    I have already battled to remove the bits that needed to be removed from
    the flat etch fret and in the process made a bit of a pigs ear out of it, but thankfully
    after the suggestion of getting a good quality peircing saw I might be able to avoid
    future problems here.
    Mike G' graciously sent me some hornguides/springs and a coupling rod chassis jig,
    I had already brought the Alan Gibson hornblocks so I'll use them here but will likely
    have a go at the others on the 2nd E2 build. The jig I'm not 100% sure how to use but
    I'm guessing the hornblocks need to be a sloppy fit so they can actually be adjusted
    using the coupling rod positions as the datum. Is this correct?
    Here is the assembly picture/s for anyone who hasn't used them before. My first time.
    I don't know yet how well they will perorm but they went together alright and seem to move freely.
    I did use Carrs Green flux at first as I often do but I forgot the nut and bolt is steel so it rusted a little!
    So for the rest I used my other new favorite DCC Supplies No Clean Flux.
    I brought it after my single slip rusted somewhat, and for the electrics, it doesn't flow quite as easily as the green stuff but certainly usable.
    I'll probably use it to solder the chassis up to help avoid accidental contamination of axles etc.

    Here we have the 1624 Mashima motor, Comet Models GB5 gearbox and a 1/50 drive extender.
    My limited experience shows me to be less picky or knowledgable in terms of wise descisions
    with drive trains so because I have used Mainly Trains for years and it's quick and easy to order...that's what I did.
    I did buy a different gearbox but after another look and measure
    decided this might be better so I can give the rear wheel drive and hopefully detail the cab a little.
    I think after a little research the 1/50 gear ratio will give good slow running with a little bit of speed, so if i'm correct
    might be a good choice for an E2 locomotive, then again I might be completely wrong but I'll find out soon enough.

    Easy job

    The first gearbox I built was for my 00 gauge James model and I didn't have many problems,
    but with this one I spent about an hour and a half at least pidelling about trying to get the initial
    worm to mesh with the first cog. It binded up and wouldn't turn. I tried it with the cog grub screw
    tightened and free and no difference. I then purposely after a long inspection bent the gearbox
    slightly from the top above the screw fixings in the direction that would give more space
    between the worm and cog (try your best to interpret that. I can't help anymore ).
    This helped a little and the instructions said they often don't tight the cog grub screw but use loctite, however this would mean I wouldn't have much adjustment
    later and I found that it was working MUCH better with it loose. Problem is it span itself to peices about 3 times and I nearly made some more accidental sacrifices.
    I needed to find a way to retain the ... erm, 'mini axle', yeeesh, that'll do. And so, in perfect expectations I concocted one of my famous Knux Bodges; a scrap etch retainer obstruction - looks messy, but so what, it's inside.
    I also had to ream out most of the 1/8th holes including those in all the cogs, but this is easy when you have the tool, just be careful not to over do it.
    I also fitted a flywheel and am really pleased with this. Always wanted to fit a flywheel to a kit, I really like them. A boon at speed if you hit a dead bit of rail and more realistic control eitherway.
    Finished pic. The final gear/cog isn't fitted as I need this on the drive axle so it's stil in the bag shoved in for the picture. I had to file most of the inner bearings off to fit one of these cogs mind. Unsure why but never mind.

    And, now what? :shock: After consulting Ian Rice's book I think I need to squarely build the super structure before I put the hornblocks in, so I'm not going to rush things further because I need to be sure I do it properly. I have a bit of 90degree wood block to help and an engineers square.

    That's all for now.
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