RThompson

Tony, It is an actual Nikon Lens that came with the camera new, nothing wrong with its focal on auto or manual, it just seems on auto mode on the body it's a bit out of focus but flick it to something else it's fine. For the models I adjust the lens and aperture manually anyway and was taught a trick in how to do my lighting by Craig Tiley without having lots of lamps.

Hello everyone, I have just reopened the website. You may notice it has been refreshed, if it doesn't you will need to refresh the page or clear your cache. Some orders appeared after the website closed without me knowing because of this. I'm just awaiting some castings, wheels and more etches from various suppliers for some kits which includes outstanding orders. Hopefully in a few weeks I will have some new releases as well as test builds to show.

Hello Tony, Having just googled about the Nikon df camera, I must say I like it as it is literally analogue with the dials and can clearly see what the settings are. I purchased my first and only DSLR about 7 years ago which was a Nikon D5100 just when it was introduced and within my price range at the time. I've had to self teach myself in using it but found the auto setting to always be slightly out of focus. However if I use any other setting like sports mode when not doing manual settings the photos do come up pin sharp. I do use the standard 18-33 lens as supplied which I find is good enough for my model making photos.

There is lifting rings available as an etch from RT Models www.rtmodels.co.uk (website reopening shortly) and I believe the shackles from ambis engineering www.ambisengineering.co.uk

When I went to choose my first loco kit, it was certainly a inside framed loco to go for to build up experience. In my case from Just Trains in Bromley, south London when they was going I chose a SEF SECR C Class. Then the next week I went and bought a SEF SECR H Class, which as a 0-4-4T I make with all wheel pick up. This was eventually sold to a friend and when he passed away it became part of the collection of my old model railway club where I was surprised to see it again. Chassis soldered together but body superglued together, still works for me tbh.

The artwork for the etches has been sent off for the 4mm scale version, lets hope it fits together first time! It is a pretty big sheet due to the amount of parts required to assemble the wagon. I have had delivered a pack of Kadee no58 couplings and they are far better. Due to the design of the wagon its not possible to fit these straight into the wagon but there is a pivot point etched onto the wagon. The couplings will have to be trimmed and a 0.5mm hole drilled to pivot on. The loco coupling bracket will require the same treatment but has the hole cast all the way through so can be secured behind the bufferbeam and can be pivoted slightly if required.

Hi Gordon, sorry I missed this post. I went to draw up the brake van this month with other stuff but cannot find the scale drawing anywhere.

Note the orientation of the spring hangers are the only (last 4 built) that have these different to the rest of the locos built, why I don't know.

You havn't been attacked by one in Llandudno then? Might as well be on steroids. They do like to hitch a ride on the roof of double decker buses also, suppose it's quicker than flying to Rhyl.

Ah yes, the magic wand couplings, forgot about these until you mentioned them. Standard Kadees won't fit straight in due to the width of the chassis channels so would need adapting to fit and of course when it comes to fitting to locomotives.

Quick question, Do you want dummy buckeye couplings supplied or source your own working Buckeyes such as Kadee #58 which will be the nearest correct size, #5 is actually too big ironically despite being H0. Dummy buckeye couplings to be supplied as laminated etches if to go down the route of them being supplied. The Oxfordshire coupling pocket is to be produced for Locos also have got the measurements required.

Sounds like the Aluminium wiring London Transport fitted to their Routemasters to save weight, thankfully mines been (mostly) rewired in copper.

You are not wrong Bucoops although for 2 weekends I have been on standby on rail replacement so rather than sitting there doing nothing until I'm called upon to do a run I used the time wisely to design the etches on the laptop.

Hello everyone, thought I would keep you all updated with what's been happening. The website will probably reopen at the end of January, it's had a Minor makeover to refresh it but still easy to use. I wish there was a way to make the international postage added automatically like years ago but does not appear it will be happen as issuing invoices does add quite a bit to my day. The time off from RT Models has been used productively which some of you will benefit from. Test etches to be submitted next week in 4mm scale, 009 gauge Thomas Green 0-6-2ST "Barber" as well as patterns in a new mould. Dinorwic and Penrhyn end tipping wagons will be released as the drawings have been altered correctly. There will be a couple of unannounced kits also, these was planned 1 to 2 years ago after obtaining/given the drawings for these locos but in the last week or so I have finally got round to doing them. Also to be submitted for test etching is the 4mm scale 00/EM/P4 Ironstone dump car. Just going to get a few more measurements this week that was missing from my research years ago. If I've got time there will also be a few other scale/gauge releases. There is a few outstanding orders/parts from the Christmas period and hoping they will arrive shortly and posted out before I reopen.

It's not the electronic devices that can be an addiction but they are used for, yes I get moaned a lot for being on the phone a lot but that's is because they can do everything. Emails but because of the amount of spam as well as general emails I've had to switch that off until needed now as it gets too much to deal with. Social media (even this forum comes under the category) is used for occasional communication, banter, information/research and in my case, publicity. Then theres computer for designing kits, updating the websites and doing paperwork, all this very boring to me. I am far happier making patterns physically but is not always practible. The age of the Internet has really connected and transformed our lives, personally for better I think with so much information shared and widely available than ever before. Just take care in what you do with it and what you say on it.

Well I am a millennial being born in December 1985. First time I've heard of the word. The job interview video, yeah I don't do 8am either! Naturally my body clock has always been to the night and suits me as a professional driver where I can go through the night without being tired and one of a few available when things go wrong on the railways.

Hello Tony, I think it's fair to say the days of poor designed kits is almost a thing of the past and really no excuse for it with CAD where you can change easily a fault unlike early hand drawings. Certainly for me it's a satisfaction to be told my kits went together so well, there's even a running account on one of my sentinels in the industrial standard gauge railways section of RMweb at the minute. Let's hope my latest wagon kit matches my past reputation as it's been a while since I designed one, it is complicated but in theory everything should simply fall into place thanks to tab and slots and half etched slots. Expected build time, quite a lot I'd imagine! I was lucky to be a member of the Wimbledon railway club so had lots of encouragement, the kit was built fully at home before it was taken to the club to run. My kit designing came about at around aged 16.

When I was 14 onwards for a number of years I used complete locos from south eastern fine cast and DJH within 3 days, these days locos have literally been on the go for years and still not completed except for a couple of my own. I suppose time factor is one of those things (hence why I'm taking a break from RT Models atm) but also some of the kits I'm building are more complicated or have serious errors so have to modify the parts. I did make a start on my first Judith edge kit of the consett A class 0-6-0PT, a doddle to put together but because of problems on the railways, I was called upon for my services so this has been put aside. The last few days I've been designing a industrial wagon kit with its very unusual and being fully etched as once again, I've not had the time to do it so thought I will crack on with this first as well as other kits and parts.

These will be etched also. Compensation has also been designed for those needing it, inside bearing.

A very unexpected but also logical choice, common parts/drawings with the W4.

I've managed to arrange some 8mm diameter wheels for 00 gauge, EM will need to pull them out but being brass can be turned down easily for P4. The drawing is about 70% complete, there is a lot of parts! Again I'm trying to make it etched only to keep costs down. There is also included for one end as per the prototype a translater headstock so the rake can be coupled to normal buffing gear as I measured and photographed these also. Buffers won't be supplied again keeps costs down but can be sourced elsewhere, RT Models 18" sentinel buffers are the nearest but the wagons buffers heads are smaller.

Certainly a major boost for southern modellers as well as something for other regions and areas of interest. Just waiting for a original Merchant Navy in BR blue to come out.

The difference in diameter would be down to wear. I probably could get some 8mm diameter wheels specially made up whether they would agree to it?

I'm actually pleased with the progress I've made today on it, helps not having to go anywhere in 12 hours! There's been a lot of headaches in the design but I'm very convinced it will literally fall together, after all I want my kits to be both highly detailed but easy to build. It hasn't helped it was that long ago I visited and drawn up the wagons and trying to deciphere everything. It's being done fully etched rather than mixed media except for the springs which I might supply as bolts? This will mean it can be produced in 7mm scale also. Now an issue with both 4mm and 7mm scales. The wheels that I measured was 1'10" (although GA drawing states 2'0") which means i can use standard markits 7mm diameter wheels. However I have not come across anything suitable for 7mm scale unless someone knows?