ozzyo

Looks like the shadow from below a transfer (say blue circle) and the body side colour has faded. OzzyO. PS. to do the same just paint the body in the colour that you want, then mask off the circle and then weather the body down and then remove the circle.

Martyn, it's just a loose set of instanter coupling that have been thrown on the coupling hook to help shunting. long for unfitted and short for fitted, the shunter would still have to between to couple up the vac. pipe though. OzzyO.

Just catching up on this thread and spotted the thing about the black rad. grill surround. This link had been posted but I think that some people may have missed it or chose to ignore it as it would not suite there cause. http://mikemorant.smugmug.com/keyword/diesel;462;08/i-hP57JmJ/A Black rad. grill surround on D3274. Also black cab roof and at the front a blue buffer beam. OzzyO.

Hello Dave, as you say it does look like there are three oil pipes running to the atomiser and three pipes running out, if that is the case one pipe runs to the front of the cylinder, one pipe to the piston valve and one pipe to the rear of the cylinder. On this side. If that is the case the second mec. lub. box should have six feed pipes coming out of it to do the same job as it will have to feed two sets of cylinders. I'll have to see if I have any books showing the Mec Lub. drawing for any of the L.N.E.R. to help with this. OzzyO.

Looking at Horstans post the two pipes running in to the "atomiser" could have come from the mec. lub box on this side for the footplate and only feed the front and rear of the cylinder. But where would the feed for the piston valve have come from? Or was the L.N.E.R. using a hydrostatic Lub. system on it's locos? If it was it would have been the big Detroit (is that spelt correctly?) type. This would normal have been on the drivers side of the cab. A nice looking build Tony. OzzyO.

Looking at some of the marks on the sleepers in the four foot it looks like it has done its job. It's a bit of a surprise that the point is open to the running line, I would have expected it to be closed to the running line and sprung over by any train going up the hill and the shunter holding it open for any train coming down the hill. Maybe The Stationmaster could through some light on this? OzzyO.

I have seen these magnetic blocks mentioned a number of times before that grip the track. So how are they suppose to work? 1] gripping the sides of the rail, that's not going to work in any town centre. Running in the streets. (how would you get to the sides of the rail?). 2] gripping the top of the rail, on a running line, that would have to be a number of very big magnets and all of them would slow the tram down. 3] the only magnets that I know of are the ones that can over ride the divers control, like A.W.S. or the new one A.W.T.P.M.S. (have I got this one right) but do tramway systems have this built in? 4] It sounds like your thinking of something that toy trains had in the 1960s. 5] are you thinking of, reostatic braking? Using the traction motors as brakes and turning it into electric power? I do hope that the RTIB can come up with the cause of this accident in a short length of time, as it could impact on all of the tramway systems that could be affected by the caused of this accident. My hart goes out to all of the people that this has affected. OzzyO.

Some of us started work at 9;00pm and finished work at 07;30 am so our weekend was a bit longer. Start Mon. 9;00PM and finish work Friday. 07;30AM then out on the train at about 10;30 AM to god knows where. Money in the pocket and beer sandwiches in the the bag and off we went. I think it was more like beer in the bags along with all of the camera gear as well. OzzyO.

Hello Simon, I have just watched the the video and I can see what you are saying about the ramp now. But that makes things worse, in that you only have the walkway on one side and not both. The walkway looks to be at the track level on the side of the film with no wall showing and having a set of railings all of the way around (maybe not at the buffer end). The ramp is not as steep as you have it and the coal hole may be a bit shorter (only about two wagons long). But if the wagons ran away and came off the catch points where would they end up? Maybe use a set of double traps that would keep them in the four foot and not divert them to-much out of line? OzzyO.

Hello Simon, I don't believe that I mentioned the floor in the coal hole, but it would have to be below the level of the bottom of the door on the side of the wagon so that you could open the side door. You mention that the track through the coal hole was not level as I also did. But what you are implying is that the incline is so that the wagons could run down the hill. That is not good railway practice. Let's see 4 X 10 tons = 40 tons plus the weight of the wagons approx. @ 6 ton each so we have a train weight of 64 tons. If that starts to run down the "hill" it will start to move at some pace, as the shunter only has the length of the building to stop it in, as he can't get passed the entrance wall. But if the track runs down to the buffer stop on a shallow grade it can stop the train. The walkway could be better on the other side of the head shunt as that would be the side that the shunter would work. If you think about it that is the side that has the most room in the coal hole. You are not going to start applying the brakes between the "platform" and the wagons. It would be on the side of the wagons that had the most room. To get the first raft of wagons out all you do is take the next raft of "4" wagons in and unload them then drop them on the first raft of "4" and pull the lot out. So about 48 ton with a loco on the front to add braking force. Plus you can pin down some of the wagon brakes to help. I still say that most coal holes that I have seen had a more ash type ballast than stone with a good splash of coal in the coal hole. OzzyO.

And I always thought that it was the lav. not the door in to the box. Now I know why it always had private on it. OzzyO.

Er, Jinty, what valve handle, it's a vac. pipe all that is needed is a dummy pipe end. Air brake pipes and steam heat pipes have handles and 08s don't have steam heat! But can have air brakes, but that is more pipes than you have on at the moment. The air brake pipes would to the right of the loco as you look at it. OzzyO.

As you now have a walkway on the outside of the wall ,I don't think that it would be below the top of the wall (or that the top of the wall would be above the hight of the walkway) . Also the chances of the the coal road having ballasts like you have is not normal, it would have been a ash type of ballast along with some coal along the side that the open side of the wagon door was open. The floor where the wagons were unloaded was always level but the track outside of the "hole" could run down to the stop block and just before the front door, locos were not allowed into the coal hole. So to get them off the run through of the hole it was always full wagons up to the front door and unload them and then hook them up and then pull the empties down. OzzzyO.

Some nice work going on here, but the vac. pipes on the 08 are a bit on the small side. 1mm = about 1.7" the full size vac pipes were about 2.5" - 2.75" so about 1.5 - 1.6mm dia. OzzyO.

Only 5 years???????????????????

Saw this photo and thought of this thread. OzzyO.

Question. How thick were the numbers? If they were Approx. 1" That is only Approx. 0.5mm. In 7mm But if you etch from one side only you would not have the etch cusp but you "could" end up with smaller numbers.That is if you don't take in to account the size reduction of the etching. OzzyO.

One of the photos was interesting, in that it was a Ex W.R. 8F (48278) and was fitted with steam heat fittings on the front buffer beam. It could be that the photo is post 68 and that it could be 48773? Look at the loco that is behind her! OzzyO.

If they are the cast ones they look very good to me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Good.

See you at Telford? OzzyO.

If the glue in the split axle has a decent working life span I can't see why glueing the poppers in place would not. It would all depend on the glue that you would use as well. If you use the same type of glue as on the body with the same prep. it should last for about the same length of time. OzzyO.

err, let's see your gluing a set of axles together, so how long do you think they will last in use? and they will get oil and a lot more crud on them than the pivots will. The oil can affect the glue bond between the two parts of the axle and any twisting of the axle can do the same. You could solder one of the poppers to the boogie frames and the one to the body with a screw and glue, if glue can work on the axles it should work on the poppers. OzzyO.

Mr, Grumpy, have you thought about using poppers (that are used in dress making) for mounting the power bogie? I would think some thing about 10mm Dia. would work. Doing it this way you then could have the roof fixed it you want. For plunger pick-ups I now tend to use Alan Gibson 4mm ones. A lot lighter springs than used in the Slater's one's. Approx. £10 for ten plungers. OzzyO.

Hello Andy all, looking at the photo below I think that I've got to agree about the size of the windows (too deep) as to the left and right position I don't have a good enough view of the kit side to say. It also shows a nice view for the Sulzer engine been lowered in to the body. The photo is copyright but I don't know who to. So is only used to illustrate a point. OzzyO.