ozzyo

Hello Michael, I'm not sure where you got that information from? If that was the case how would it traverse from one side to the other when the smokebox (transfer box) would get in the way? But when you look a this photo of a Costi 9F you can see that weighshaft will fit between the pre-heat "boiler" and the main boiler. This is the large bearing on the motion bracket. Not the large flanged hole to it's rear. This looks to be a flange for the exhaust steam pipe, some will go to the steam jacket but most will go directly up the chimney to help produce draft in the boiler. In this photo you can also see the main steam pipe to the cylinder inside the smokebox and outside of the smokebox. This explains the odd shaped steam pipe covers at the front end. When you look along the pipe you can see an inverted U shaped pipe, I think this will be the take off pipe for the steam jacket at the rear of the preheat boiler. OzzyO.

The liquid lead will cost you more!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (depending on where you buy it at).

Steve, glad that you have had the operation at long last and hope it all goes well, A few tips, don't spent to much time walking around the super markets. don't spend to much time standing in the kitchen. don't put your superman out fit on just yet. don't lift any thing that weighs more than twenty fluid ounces or one pint! do spend time at your modelling bench. and most importantly do as your doctor has told you. ATVB OzzyO.

I like the rust effect on the wheel barrows. But one small problem they look to be wooden barrows! OzzyO.

Hello all, a bit late in replying to this thread, yes it is 50 thou. for the Alan key, I get mine from a local ironmongers for about 30p. If you get the screw stuck in the axle and the screw head gets chewed up us an automatic centre punch close to the edge of the screw first us it as you would normally, then at about 45Degs. For replacement screw you want 1/4" X 6BA I get mine from Items Mail Order. OzzyO.

IIRC, it's called grasshopper valve gear. This is pi?? me off as I wrote a nice reply and it has gone. I'll try and do it again. The vertical cylinders each drove one axle, by using con. rods that meant that the wheels were kept in sinc. But when you look at the wheels you will see that one cylinder is driving one wheel at approx. 90 Deg. to the other one on the same side. So that should mean that the push rods on both sides of the same axle are only working on the same stroke. That is why the wheels have to be set out of sinc. The wheels are of the type that were made by Blenkingsop? (spelling check) These were quite an idea for the time that this loco was built, These wheels were cast as an inner one piece casting and the outer as a number of casting IIRC. Then the two rims? were fixed together using round wooden plugs between the outer and inner castings to try and reduce any movement between the track and the loco frames.as most locos at this time did not have any form of suspension IIRC this wheel was used on one of the £5 notes a few years back OzzyO.

As you say Dave the width across the frames is more relevant. If my maths is correct this should be 3' 4 3/4" or 23.77mm. As this is FS should the frames be narrowed by the 1mm?????? OzzyO.

So on the model the gap between the frames should be 22.3mm. OzzyO.

It does look like you have a way to go yet, as the bottom part of the ash pan has to fit between the frames! So that the bottom of the firebox fits on to the shaped part of the frames. OzzyO. PS. out of interest what is the gap between the frames, as the 9Fs and some more of the standards had less than the normal 4'1" and had the frames above the centre line of the axle box.

Hello Paul, you may want to think about putting something on the handle of the rivet press. You could use a few thickness's of shrink wrap of something called morphing putty? It's like a semi soft two part epoxy and it will mould to your hand shape. OzzyO.

Hello Craig, have a look in parts bogies and accessories, page 3. OzzyO.

I think that the first time that I seen them was up in Scotland on the 47/7s that is what confused me (not that it takes a lot nowadays). OzzyO.

How about a link to one or both?

Hello Sandy, that should look OK when it got some paint on it. Looking at the drivers in your photos it looks like only one of them has been insulated by cutting through the spokes, or is one axle insulated on both sides? See you soon, OzzyO.

Hello Brian, I think that it would look better with a bit more weathering on it. What are the front end jumper cables on 47370 for please. OzzyO.

To stop some of the bubbles forming you can add a vent hole, paint a first coat of resin in the mould, or use one of them vacuum bags to pull all of the air out of the resin. You may have to make a frame work to keep it off the part but it could help. OzzyO. PS. I've seen this done in a proper vac. tank and it looks like the resin is boiling with all of the air that is in the mix.

I'm going both days along with 3Link and Grasshopper John. OzzyO.

Hello Ron, sorry to be a pain but should the coaches Etc. not be on the other side of the point and clear of the fouling point so that the loco could run around the stock without the train having to be pulled back? I'm not sure of the workings at this station but in a lot of stations that had a middle road they would leave enough room for the loco to draw forward and move back passed the stock in the platform. OzzyO.

Hello Ron, nice work as always, but I think that I may have used brass sections to get a finer look. Now the big question, how are you going to fit the chairs? As you now have a full depth depression bar with no room for the chairs on the inside. ATB OzzyO.

Never heard of them. Thanks any way.

What is it called or at least what is it's initials, is it W.T. by any chance. OzzyO.

The base plate with the rails on, I take. This sounds like H/T is talking about the frames with the wheels on. This now really sounds like the base plate with the rails on it.

Hello all, I've just had a look in one of my Cutwell tools books and have found a small boring head with a size range of 15mm - 18mm at £264. So for the price of approx. £71 I'd say that this could be a good price for this bit of kit. OzzyO.

Hello Ray all, I've had a chance to have a look at the boring head and put a clock on it while turning the index screw and this is what I've come up with. 0 - 0 = 1mm / 50 so 0.02 per division but as it will take off 2mm per full 0 - 0 the divisions = 0.04mm or 0.0016". so just using the index approx 3thou. with care it should be possible to get down to 0.00015" with it. Do we need much less in modelling? If you say yes then you will have to pay a lot more for this type of kit or make a finer index wheel, or lead screw and nut. So it could still be a good starting point. OzzyO.

Don't know about a video Len, but I will post some photos. OzzyO.