ozzyo

looking at the first set of wheels these look to be set at 90 Degs. as is normal as on a two or four cylinder loco. In your second photo this is set at too small an angle, this is not correct for a three cylinder loco. In your third photo this looks correct for a three cylinder loco. It could be that you have received an axle for the bogie, trailing or tender wheel sets in mistake. It's also a bit hard to tell as you have the Alan screw in place in two of your photos, to see if its the axle or wheel at fault? Then we would also need to see both ends of the same axle in the same wheel set. When it comes to wheel quartering, you have to speak as if the wheels on the other side don't match, the loco will not run. If you have the wheels quartered at 60 Degs. on the front axle then the next set at 90 Degs. then the next set at 120 Degs. How could that work. What you have to look at is the relationship between the front wheel (L/H side) and the rear wheel (R/H side) to understand the issues with the quartering. OzzyO.

Have they done it so that the wheels will be at 120 Degs.?

I don't think that the lathe is running in reverse, it just looks like it is due to the timing of the film to the revs. of the lathe. If it had been running in reverse the lad would have been picked up and thrown over the top of the job. With what that could have involved!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! All in all a lot of very bad M/C shop practice. OzzyO.

Have you had a look at Peter's spares advert at the top of this page, on my puter. OzzyO.

That lathe is an accident waiting to happen, get some guards over the gears and belts. It could bite you one day and take a finger off. All It needs is a bit of a box that just covers the left hand end. OzzyO.

If this link works it shows why you should be very careful when using lathes. https://youtu.be/3EdQq5iAGYs OzzyO. PS. why he had on long sleeves and working the way that he did I don't know? Why have the saddle in the way of working? It should have been at one end or the other and for a job like this (at the chuck end? better?) Why was his mate not near the controls (stop button)? Then look at all of the crap that is around the lathe. The cleanest place is at the rear of the lathe, not the working area.

I would say that once you get the valve gear set up and running right you should not need to break the valve gear down in to sub-components. You could use nail varnish to lock the return cranks in place. For locking the 10BA screws that I use in place I use Loctite 290, as seen below. On some locos I also use it on the tapped top hat bearings. On the front bush you could use Loctite 290 on this as it's a wicking type adhesive. Down side is it one of the strongest in the Loctite range, about the only way you can get parts apart again is to use heat. OzzyO.

Hello Tim, you have mentioned about removing parts of the valve gear. Why should you need to do that unless your loco is going to run 100s of real miles? All it should need is a drink of oil after say 20 or 40 hours of continuous (is that spelt right) running. It's a bit like saying that the axle boxes should be made re-movable all they need is a bit of good oil after 10 to 20 hours of running. All I will say is if you keep up a good lubrication régime on your loco the chances are you will not have to replace any bearings unless you are about aged 10 and your loco is aged about 50. OzzyO.

Hello Newtz, some good modelling going on there, but if I may say you have got your coal wrong. Have a look at the photo of the real shed, most of the lumps of coal are very large that are on the floor in the 6 foot and only after the end of the paved floor and with very little in the 4 foot. The real photo looks to have been taken where some of the locos could have been lit up, the fire starter would have between ten and twenty locos to get going and would not want to put big lumps of coal on to a cold fire (he would not have the time to smash the big lump down, so he would just kick if off the footplate). After a few days someone would go around with a barrow and collect all of the coal and it would get used in the shed. So a few odd big lumps in a few areas but not piles of it! If you want piles of stuff use ash or smoke-box char. OzzyO.

I would say now go back to work on the frames, and get them up to a working point. Why do all of the work on the body if the frames don't work? OzzyO.

They look look like gear hobs, depending on the type. One type will cut a straight type of gear (forgot the name) spur? gear you would normal need a dividing -head and a mill to cut these. If the second one is like a screw thread with parts cut out, this can be self hobbing, in that you mount the hob in the lathe and bring the gear blank in to the hob and it should drive it around when you introduce more of a cut. Not a very good way of saying how to cut gears. OzzyO. EDIT. it also looks like one is for L/H cutting.

All the best Steve, will give you a bell in a week or so. OzzyO.

You can also use oil to quench the S/S in it gives less shock to the metal. OzzyO.

Hello Hayfield, looking at the front axle "bearing" you will have to stop most side play as you don't have much room behind the slide-bars Etc. so some form of stops at the inside ends could be good, also a spring that works on the centre of the "bearing" could be a good idea. Or you could use a rocking bar on it. like you would on three point suspension. OzzyO.

Hello Hayfield, that looks like it will build into a nice looking loco. One thing to look out for IIRC is that the coupling rods are out side of the connecting rods on these locos. On a loco of this length you should get away with about 0.5 - 0.75mm of side play on the centre axle. Any chance of a photo of the arrangement of the bearing on the front axle? OzzyO.

Is that any help JeffP.

Hello all, what will happen when all of the originals have been copied and no new originals are been made (due to all of the main models having been copied and the producers of them getting no MONEY back to reinvest in more models) what are you going to do then? Yes keep buying the cheap copies of good models, but when the supply of good models runs out please remember why! Hornby, Backman & Co will only let it go for a short while and the plug will get pulled. That is just my thought on it, OzzyO.

Some of use get wound up about using photos that maybe copyright on this site, but here we are seeing people talking about models that have been copied from models with or without consent. In the mag. does it say where the source of the moulding came from? I would not to like to bet on it. But I'd say from China, copyrite to them does not exits as long as you change a small bit (look at some of their top of the range cars). Think before you buy, OzzyO.

This is your quote above is it not, and it does not say in that quote any think about entire structures of the motion. Me Lord. But I will agree that W/M should not be use to make parts of the valve gear. But it does make a fantastic bearing material as long as it's kept lubricated. OzzyO. PS. sorry Htan. PPS. so what about a bearing with a W/M centre and????????????????????????????????????????????????????

But the big railway did use white metal in parts of the motion! Along with a lot of its bearings.

Any chance of a photo of the GW models rollers? OzzyO.

Hi Steve, that's about right, I think that he may have a connection to the Morecambe club. TIA OzzyO.

If he had no hair that was Kev. I'll be walking to the club on Wed. now. OzzyO.

Steve, would you pass these on to the fellow that was at Cleck. with Princess Anne for me. Thanks OzzyO.

Sandy, are you at Cleck tomorrow? OzzyO.