ozzyo

It shows a soldering station as the first item, then another one about 6 down I like the look of that one with the hot air gun as well. OzzyO.

I will agree that the guards light looks good when compared to photos of the time, but the light was tunston (spelling?) based and shown up on the colour film of the time with a yellow cast. But to the eye it looked a white light. OzzyO.

Is this the one? http://www.maplin.co.uk/search?text=Soldering OzzyO.

I like the look of the Miniatronics LEDs. Of the other two one looks too red and the other one too yellow. OzzyO.

You may like to have a look at this link. http://www.antex.co.uk/soldering/soldering-stations/690d/ I've been using the 690SD for over 10 years with no problems. You may get it cheaper if you shop around. OzzyO.

and shows up all of the muck as well.

What can one say? Just a bit more blue? or a lot more muck? It looks a nice job Brian. OzzyO.

Rob, IIRC most of the nuts on wooden wagons were square, with a coach bolt being used in the wood, these tended to have a dome shaped head. OzzyO. EDIT. I've just had a look at one of my LMS wagon books and it look like they used hex. nuts. !

Hello all, as the grit-blaster has blown another fluro tube, I have decided to replace it with LEDs these I bought from B&M bargains for £14.00. You do get the transformer as well but I forgot to include it in the photo. The LEDs fitted in to the grit-blaster these went around the blaster twice with a three layer along the back wall with only 6" of waste. and lit up OzzyO.

Sandy, I don't use gloss paint from Halford's as I find it too glossy! As it sounds like your doing them in black you could use the matt black (try black etch primer) then mask off the smokebox and roof then over paint with the gloss or satin black. Have a look at this link. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171591697288?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT OzzyO. PS. check that you have not got pure acrylic gloss paint.

Hello Jamie, one thing that you could try with the wire fencing is to pre tension the wire by pulling it between two sets of pliers to get the wire straight. Then put it in place and solder it at one end, add a small weight (say about 2oz.) at the other end and then solder the remaining uprights to the wire, this should then give you a straighter run of wire. You could do something similar with the over head contact wire. On our layout with OHLE we use N/S/ wire over the baseboard joints that clip on the line masts and at the ends we use a tensioning springs to keep the OHL taut. OzzyO.

went to York to see some drawings at the N.R.M. on the 20/5/15, first call was the York Tap, 18 heads on, what to go for? as it was only about 10AM I went for this one. Nice and light with a sharp after taste. The second pint was this, as I do like the dark beers, OK at about 10;30am it was a bit much. But a very nice pint. Back to the tap at about 3pm and had one of these, a good drinking pint. Then after I'd finished at the N.R.M. I went to a J.D.Spoon's and had one of these (look at the price a pound less than the Tap). Then it was back to the Tap for my last pint in York of the day, All of the beers that I had were all good and the bar staff knew the job and how to serve the beer. OzzyO.

A good three way asymmetrical point in the F/S track range at 6' rad. would be a good move, and then do it in L/H by that I mean the L/H point branching off first and R/H versions with the R/H point branching off first. But that may take a long looooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooong time. OzzyO.

It's his tamping machine, just tap the rail head with it and the ballast goes down, OK you can end up with some dings in the track but that's why his locos have compensation!!!!!!!! OzzyO

Let me see I'll have twenty 47s, but only if they are at 10s/6d per kit and come with all of the bits to make any of the locos at any time in their life. Come on guys get real. To get a good kit or model of a long lived class like a 47 that you can make a model of just about any of them is going to cost £££££s If you get a RTR model you will have to do some (lot) of work on it to get the loco that you want, then you may have to get it repainted to be in the correct livery. Some times it can be better to start with a kit and work it out from there. You then have the option of wheels motor and gearbox Etc. and how you want any other bits to fit in the loco. So lets see a Heljan loco, about £450 out of the box. If you want new wheels £120, detail parts say £100, a re-paint £300. So that's about £970 JLTRT kit about £450, wheels £120, motor and gearbox £100, paint job £300, so that works out at about £970. One thing that you will get out of building any kit is the enjoyment of building the kit and been able to say that I did that. OzzyO.

R. B. by any chance? OzzyO.

That was what I meant to say in my post above the coupling rod not the con rod. Sorry for the confusion, OzzyO.

No villains in Loco Dour? apart from one family that live close to the railway!!!!!! OzzyO.

As far as I can tell the body is the same as a Collett 4000 gal. tender. For the tender side frames I think that I'd use some 0.030" plasticard, for the sizes you could use the drawings in post #22. I'm not sure if the axleboxs and springs are the same, if they are all you have to do is remove the backing plastic from them. OzzyO.

Hello Tim, the rivet that you can't identify looks to be the pivot pin for the con rods! OzzyO. EDIT. I've just re-read my post and I did mean coupling rod rivet not con. rod. I've put the big pointy hat with the big D on it and am going to stand in the corner!!!!

Steve you may want to think about something like this for taking the power from your bus bars. http://www.rapidonline.com/cables-connectors/scotchlok-run-and-tap-connectors-520600 OzzyO.

Your a brave man doing one of them!! Best of luck with it, who's kit are you going for? If it's the Severn you should have a good chance.

On the new club layout for the bus feed line we're using a copper type of tape that sticks on the underside of the baseboard and then all of the feed wires are soldered to that. If you do think about using it. I would say to paint under where your going to stick it rather than just stick it on the bare wood. OzzyO.

Are they in a new form of Hi-vis gear that was been tested in the 1960s? OzzyO.

That's about time!!!!!!!!