Wright writes.....

[Steamport Southport]

3 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

 

Why? It's not as if they were unfamiliar with Worsdell engines.

 

They were probably expecting two of those new fangled diesels instead....

 

They were sent to Scotland as soon as the Drewry 04s appeared.

 

 

 

Jason

[Hollar]

4 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

 

Why? It's not as if they were unfamiliar with Worsdell engines.

Precisely - all those years sruggling along with the temperamental, steam-shy gimmick-ridden J15s. 

 

 

[Barry Ten]

A few BR-era weathered locos from me.

 

 

This one was weathered using Lifecolor acrylics, brushed on over rattle-can green and then cleaned off with cotton buds.

 

 

As above, just acrylics brushed on and swabbed-off.

 

 

Again, just acrylics over a rattle-can black base coat.

 

 

A light dusting from the airbrush and acrylics around the underframes for these two diesels.

 

[65179]

15 hours ago, Jesse Sim said:

Many thanks Tony, 

 

I prefer not to use an Airbrush as it makes everything look to uniformed. You get more textures I think with paint and powders just brushed on. 
 

I thought the same regarding working on black locos, I think it’s actually easier weathering a green loco as it shows the weathering more. 

 

It's interesting you say that about green locos, Jesse. It can certainly be easier to see what you are doing. With a black loco you sometimes need a before and after shot to confirm you've actually done anything given the dark grey thing in front of you.

 

Where green locos are a challenge is when you want not just mucky, but aged faded paintwork. I'm happy doing this sort of thing:

 

but would struggle to produce the sort of finish on Johndon's rather nice Class 24 upthread.

 

Like you, I'm unsure about the evenness it is too easy to end up with using an airbrush, but I also think it would be tricky to reproduce the fairly even dusting of muck, frequently seen for example on those green Scottish B12s that feature in LNER/early BR colour albums, without the use of one. 

 

No such problem with this beastie where no airbrush was required once the black was done and the transfers were covered in varnish:

 

Barry Ten's rather nice Warship prompts me to ask how did LMS crimson lake or BR maroon weather? In the latest Hornby Magazine Tim Shackleton recreates the sort of debased crimson lake seen on one of the last red Jubilee 4-6-0s. He suggests that the paint tended to black whereas I certainly tend to think of reds (more modern colours admittedly) being very prone to fading to pink.  If they did tend to slowly go black I assume that would have been more down to the ash and coal dust worked in by repeated cleaning with the usual oily rag?

 

Thanks,

Simon

[zr2498]

3 hours ago, Tony Teague said:

Seems appropriate that some weathering work of the late Mick Bonwick - who also taught me how to do it through his sessions at Missenden - should be included here.

 

This is a shot of my SR TPO train, which he weathered in it's entirety:

 

 

Plus detail from one of the Bulleid TPO vans which came originally from Marc Models - now also sadly defunct:

 

 

Tony

Tony

Pleased that you have included Mick in this part of the thread on weathering. He taught me skills needed for weathering at both Missenden and Pendon. He is greatly missed.

 

Here are a couple of links to some very useful virtual weekend sessions (Missenden) on the subject.

 

https://www.missendenrailwaymodellers.org.uk/index.php/spring-2021-weathering-room/

 

https://www.missendenrailwaymodellers.org.uk/index.php/virtual-missenden-weathering/

 

And a couple photos of some cemflos - thanks to Mick Bonwick and Tim Shackleton on guidance for the methods needed and prototype photos

 

 

 

Deltic

 

 

A bunch of minerals using different rusting techniques

 

 

A well cared for P2 poking it's head round the corner on that one.

 

Dave

Edited May 18, 2022 by zr2498

[MikeParkin65]

17 minutes ago, 65179 said:

 

It's interesting you say that about green locos, Jesse. It can certainly be easier to see what you are doing. With a black loco you sometimes need a before and after shot to confirm you've actually done anything given the dark grey thing in front of you.

 

Where green locos are a challenge is when you want not just mucky, but aged faded paintwork. I'm happy doing this sort of thing:

 

but would struggle to produce the sort of finish on Johndon's rather nice Class 24 upthread.

 

Like you, I'm unsure about the evenness it is too easy to end up with using an airbrush, but I also think it would be tricky to reproduce the fairly even dusting of muck, frequently seen for example on those green Scottish B12s that feature in LNER/early BR colour albums, without the use of one. 

 

No such problem with this beastie where no airbrush was required once the black was done and the transfers were covered in varnish:

 

I certainly tend to think of reds (more modern colours admittedly) being very prone to fading to pink.  If they did tend to slowly go black I assume that would have been more down to the ash and coal dust worked in by repeated cleaning with the usual oily rag?

 

Thanks,

Simon

Definatelly the latter for a working loco I think. The highly polished preserved 6233 rapidly attains a dark  covering of ash and oil on even a short run and as its current paint is on its 4th year (I think) it is darkening more than fading. By contrast a maroon loco left out of use outside quickly fades to pink as you describe - look at the many colour photo's of 46200 stored at Upperby from 1962 until  towed away and scrapped (early 1964?) - distinctly matt pink. 

[Tony Wright]

Thanks for showing even more examples of splendid weathering.

 

The N2 I weathered earlier (dry-brushing enamels dry very quickly) is now on Little Bytham.....

 

 

At the usual 3' viewing distance, I think it's OK (though the Pacific Models' number plate needs toning down a bit, perhaps). 

 

It's running light engine; its last journey to Donny Plant? Note the appropriate lamps fore and aft.

 

I have several light engines (there's one Up and one Down working in the sequence). 

 

Another Down light engine working is this ...........

 

 

A J52, this one weathered by Geoff Haynes. Again, another last run?

 

Two other Down light engine workings concern diesels........

 

 

Such as this Heljan 'Baby Deltic'.

 

 

Or this Heljan BRC&WC Type 2.

 

I weathered both of these (again, dry-brushing), the thinking being that they're off to Doncaster for repair. 

 

Up light engine workings have cleaner locos......

 

 

Such as this C12.

 

 

Or this J50. 

 

Both returning to duties further south.

 

Geoff Haynes lightly-weathered this pair. 

 

I think the only justification I can have for small tank locos running through LB is as light engines. It's certainly a different working in the sequence.

 

I've built none of these models. 

 

 

 

 

[Barry Ten]

One thing I didn't realise until perusing a new book on diesel hydraulics, is that one (or more?) Warships left the works with the lower part of the body painted a rusty buff colour, to disguise the build-up of brake dust. Could this be described as an example of full-size factory weathering?

Edited May 18, 2022 by Barry Ten
formatting

[seahorse]

For pictures of Class 91 electrics in various stages of weathering ( see top of this page) and so much more besides, try Dave Ford's thread in UK Prototype Discussions

[Brinkly]

I thought I would share my first go at weathering on here. I used Precision paints, thinned and then applied through an airbrush. I then dipped a flat brush in thinners and created rain streaks. 

 

Bachmann Toad re-numbered to a Bristol allocation.

 

Hornby BR Standard Brake van. This had some powder weathering too on the concrete weight, footboards and on the roof. It has been modified to represent a 'through-piped' van and has a removable ModelU Tail Lamp.

 

Bachmann SR Brake Van - similar treatment to the one above. 

 

Trio of steel mineral wagons which have had various chipping techinques applied with Ammo by Mig products. The lines were painted on rather than using a transfer. They have subsequently had wheels and transfers fitted - these are in P4. 

 

Selection of modified open wagons - all airbrushed with streaking effects, replacement pipes and couplings too. 

 

As I said, these were the first wagons (or indeed items) I've ever weathered. I was quite pleased with my first go. 

 

All the best,

 

Nick.

[31A]

Re. weathering locos, I've done quite a lot but one I was quite pleased with recently was this K1, a bonus buy from a Hatton's sale.  I sometimes think it's more difficult to portray a reasonably clean 'working' loco than a really filthy one.  It might appear that I haven't done much to this one but in fact I put quite a lot of work into it, including (dare I say) renumbering by just altering the last digit.

 

 

[Tony Wright]

14 hours ago, 31A said:

Re. weathering locos, I've done quite a lot but one I was quite pleased with recently was this K1, a bonus buy from a Hatton's sale.  I sometimes think it's more difficult to portray a reasonably clean 'working' loco than a really filthy one.  It might appear that I haven't done much to this one but in fact I put quite a lot of work into it, including (dare I say) renumbering by just altering the last digit.

 

 

You've made a lovely job of the K1 Steve,

 

Thanks for showing us.

 

Of late, the Hornby K1 has been offered at low prices (over-production?), and it's a fine model at source. However, one thing I dislike about it it is the wrong 'lean' to the return crank on the RH-side.....

 

 

This just looks absurd. 

 

Some little time ago in BRM, I conducted some 'improvements' to Hornby's K1...........

 

 

 

Including altering the angle of the return crank.

 

 

And altering the front pony to lose (at least, when painted) that obese NEM pocket. 

 

 

I, too, only altered one digit!

 

 

But weathering hid any differences.

 

 

 

And, the end-result after overall dry-brush weathering. 

 

An ideal layout loco? I hope so, because I later sold it on, the proceeds going to CRUK. 

 

Perhaps, if whoever bought it is reading this and is still happy with it, they might comment. 

 

It follows my pattern of 'improving' RTR motive power and then selling it. 

 

Bytham's current K1s consist of..............

 

 

 

Two Nu-Cast examples, one built by me - 62018, painted by Geoff Haynes, and one, 62038, built/painted/weathered by John Houlden, along with a DMR K1, 62070, built/painted by me and weathered by Tom Foster. 

 

 

It could be argued that the Hornby K1 is actually superior to the DMR one, especially with regard to the cab proportions.

 

 

I wanted 62018 to match a prototype picture, having just come off works.

 

 

Though most K1s looked like this in service.

 

 

There is another Bytham K1, of more-recent acquisition. Another Nu-Cast one (builder/painter unknown). I had this for sale (at a very modest price) but nobody was interested, even after Geoff West weathered it. So, I've taken pity on the dear old thing and bought it myself.

 

It runs very well, though it is definitely inferior to the Hornby RTR K1. 

 

One of the nicest K1s I've ever run was this one from last year......

 

 

Built from a Nu-Cast kit by Graham Varley, and also painted by him. It belonged to a now-deceased collector who wanted everything pristine. Beautifully-executed, it cries out for weathering. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

[Tony Wright]

With weathering being in vogue right now, a few more examples on Little Bytham..........................

 

 

I built this Hornby/Comet 8F adaptation for review in BRM when the 'kit' first came out. I based the weathering (all dry-brush, of course) on a prototype picture, where a fair bit of brown was present. 

 

 

Another prototype picture aided my weathering of this Bachmann/SEF/London Road/Markits K3.

 

Not so much brown on this one.

 

Three ex-LNER 2-8-0s next...........

 

 

Geoff Haynes expertly weathered this modified Heljan O2/3, using a combination of dry-brush, air-brush and powders.

 

As with all the others, observation of (colour) prototype pictures was essential.

 

 

I turned a Heljan O2/3 into an O2/2, and dry-brush weathered it. 

 

The valve gear/motion is weak on these 2-8-0s, and I need to attend to it. 

 

 

Superb weathering by Tony Geary on this Little Engines O4 he built (it's numbered as an O4/1 but is presented as an O4/3). 

 

 

And, another example of Tony's weathering on this DJH A1 he built. It's really natural.

 

 

Seen last week as well, more of his weathering on this Alan Hammett-built Pro-Scale V2.

 

One thing I must do is to reinstate the full length cylinder drain cocks so that they reach to the front steps. When Gilbert Barnatt first bought this (ex-Stoke/Charwelton V2) off Tony, they had to be cut back so as not to cause problems on his layout, catching the pony wheels on curves.

 

I consider myself to be immensely-privileged in now owning such beautifully-natural locos. 

 

 

I think this A1 is very-natural as well. 

 

Started by the late Geoff Brewin, I completed this Pro-Scale kit, then painted it. Tom Foster then weathered it for me. 

 

 

Another, more-recent, A1, and another DJH one (builder/painter unknown). This came from a deceased modeller's collection last year, but was very noisy in operation. I fitted a replacement drive and now she's sweet as a nut. 

 

Without appearing judgemental, I don't think Geoff West would claim to be a 'professional weatherer' but he's made a wonderfully-subtle job on this. Thanks Geoff.

 

I mentioned that I'm privileged to own models built/weathered by others, but that's particularly poignant when they're the work of friends who have died. 

 

 

Friends such as Pete Lander, who made/weathered these Airfix 16T minerals. Originally seen on Fordley Park, they're cherished possessions indeed.

 

 

As is this; the work of the late Dave Shakespeare.

 

I must say, I remain ambivalent about some 'commercial weathering', either factory-finish or aftermarket. Some, at least to me, look as if no more than dirty thinners have been squirted at the lower regions of a model, often leaving a 'shadow' on the wheels caused by the motion not being moved during application. 

 

However, where it's done well.......................

 

 

Such as by Lord & Butler; the effect is rather realistic (it carries a Noch track-keeping-cleaning pad underneath). 

 

Some rather nice weathering on Dave Wager's superb girder bridge in the above pictures as well! 

 

Thanks once more for all the weathering examples by others being posted..............

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 19, 2022 by Tony Wright
typo error

[Adam88]

20 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

 

The N2 I weathered earlier (dry-brushing enamels dry very quickly) is now on Little Bytham.....

 

 

At the usual 3' viewing distance, I think it's OK (though the Pacific Models' number plate needs toning down a bit, perhaps). 

 

It's running light engine; its last journey to Donny Plant? Note the appropriate lamps fore and aft.

 

 

 

Shouldn't there be a little more in the frame department Tony?  It's been bothering me.  This one looks as though the weight of the bunker is supported by little more than air.

[30368]

Good day Tony,

 

Can I add my fairly lightly weathered ex GCR/LNER class B9 4-6-0? It is shown on Basingstoke shed turntable and how it got there is hard to justify. It's final shed was Stockport (Heaton Mersey) so how it reached Basingstoke, via Reading I assume, is a mystery?

 

Just a bit of nonsense really.....

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[t-b-g]

This was some weathering I applied to one of Roy Jackson's kit built carriages. I don't know if the glazing in the window ever got replaced but he said he was going to do it.

 

He sprayed the vehicle with one of the Halfords sprays but it didn't go on too smoothly. It struck me that the effect was rather like some paint finishes I had seen in photos, so we didn't smooth it off. The rest was done with a brush and thin washes of diluted Tamiya acrylic, wiped off with kitchen roll to leave bits here and there.

 

Edited May 19, 2022 by t-b-g
To add missed apostrophe- hanging offence?

[Tony Wright]

2 hours ago, Adam88 said:

 

Shouldn't there be a little more in the frame department Tony?  It's been bothering me.  This one looks as though the weight of the bunker is supported by little more than air.

Undoubtedly, but I didn't build it. 

 

I'll investigate.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

1 hour ago, t-b-g said:

This was some weathering I applied to one of Roy Jackson's kit built carriages. I don't know if the glazing in the window ever got replaced but he said he was going to do it.

 

He sprayed the vehicle with one of the Halfords sprays but it didn't go on too smoothly. It struck me that the effect was rather like some paint finishes I had seen in photos, so we didn't smooth it off. The rest was done with a brush and thin washes of diluted Tamiya acrylic, wiped off with kitchen roll to leave bits here and there.

 

 

 

That's very effective Tony,

 

Thanks for showing us.

 

It's similar to the effect achieved by John Houlden on his carriage stock.

 

 

 

 

This set was built originally in OO, for service on East Ranford and Gamston Bank.

 

After the latter was cremated, it was loaned to Roy, who re-gauged it to EM for use on Retford. After Roy's death, it came back to John. I then bought it off him, re-gauging it back to OO for running on Little Bytham (though it's probably more appropriate for Retford). 

 

The K3 is all Tony Geary's splendid work.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

[Tony Wright]

Returning to the N2 and its 'air-supported' bunker, since I don't know who built it, I've no idea why there's 'nothing beneath', as it were. 

 

It would appear to have a Comet chassis..........

 

 

Which definitely has provision for a rear end support of some kind.

 

 

Even though it's too long for an Airfix N2 body, and has to be shortened.

 

 

But, considering the nonsense it replaced......................

 

 

It makes a far better job. 

 

 

[Bulwell Hall]

Some interesting photos and comments on weathering coaches here just lately.  A friend of mine prefers to use the term 'characterising' as it also includes adding passengers, roof boards, etc.  And for what it is worth I rarely use an airbrush for weathering - coaches or engines - and much prefer to use enamel paints applied by brush and some weathering powders following the teachings of Martyn Welch.  Attached are a couple of photos of a GW 'Toplight' coach which I built from a David Geen/Martin Needham kit.   The excellent paint job was done by Ian Rathbone and I did the weathering/characterising - having taken a large brave pill first!  The intention was to show a coach which was well maintained for use in an express but showing some signs of use.  The second photo shows it in a train with an upgraded Hornby Collet bow - end coach which largely retained the Hornby applied livery but which has also been 'characterised'.

 

Gerry

 

 

[Bernard Lamb]

5 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

 

It could be argued that the Hornby K1 is actually superior to the DMR one, especially with regard to the cab proportions.

 

 

 

 

 

Tony,

The only problem I can see with the Hornby K1, other than the one you mentioned, is that it does not have a Peppercorn tender. It has an earlier version with curved ends to the frames rather than the, correct for most of the class, straight ends. I added a plastic card backing and built them up with filler on mine.

Bernard

[Tony Wright]

1 hour ago, Bulwell Hall said:

Some interesting photos and comments on weathering coaches here just lately.  A friend of mine prefers to use the term 'characterising' as it also includes adding passengers, roof boards, etc.  And for what it is worth I rarely use an airbrush for weathering - coaches or engines - and much prefer to use enamel paints applied by brush and some weathering powders following the teachings of Martyn Welch.  Attached are a couple of photos of a GW 'Toplight' coach which I built from a David Geen/Martin Needham kit.   The excellent paint job was done by Ian Rathbone and I did the weathering/characterising - having taken a large brave pill first!  The intention was to show a coach which was well maintained for use in an express but showing some signs of use.  The second photo shows it in a train with an upgraded Hornby Collet bow - end coach which largely retained the Hornby applied livery but which has also been 'characterised'.

 

Gerry

 

 

Lovely work Gerry,

 

Thanks for showing us.

 

You're right; it takes a powerful 'brave pill' to start weathering a master painter's work. Not being heroic, I took a bottle full!......

 

 

When I built my 'Queen of Scots' Pullman rake over a quarter of a century ago (using Hornby donors, Comet sides and MJT components), Ian Rathone painted the sides (superbly) and I weathered the underframes and roofs (very, very carefully). 

 

Ian did some more Pullman painting later, this time matching Hornby's rendition of cream/umber more closely.....

 

 

To fit into another Pullman rake, this one consisting of some Hornby cars which hadn't been rebuilt in the fashion of this one.

 

Again, I weathered the underframe and roof. 

 

I had more of a go at several of Hornby's latest Pullman cars..................

 

 

'Characterising' them as well as weathering by the addition of curtains, name boards and the painting of the kitchen window white. 

 

Such a quality model (even though I'm told they're now impossible to get) renders what Ian and I had to do obsolete today! 

 

 

Above all else, even though the likes of Pullman cars' sides were regularly cleaned, the roofs never were and should be weathered.

 

Yes, I know, ex-works they'd be silver/aluminium/white, but a few journeys in 'dirty' weather?

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

[westernviscount]

A couple of weathered items from me...

 

A cambrian kits walrus finished with powders.

 

Parkside shock open, painted with enamels and weathered with powders, applied heavily into wet matt varnish on the metal work to create textured rusting. 

 

A very close shot of a parkside vanfit. Red primer, layered bauxite tones using enamel, overall covering with acrylic brown then attacked with white spirit and a cocktail stick to create wood texture.

 

An upgraded (depending how you see it!)  Lima LMS guv. Weathered with powders fixed with acrylic varnish spray. 

 

And a Dapol standard brake, duckets weathered with rust powders applied to wet varnish. Maskol applied in random rust patterns then painted over with acrylic grey and maskol peeled away.

 

Along with a mineral using the same process as the duckets above. Potentially too rusty for an operational wagon. 

 

 

Cheers for now,

Dave

[Jesse Sim]

Now that we’re getting into little details/tips & tricks with weathering, I thought I’d show this simple Bachmann NE fish van. 
 

I’ve modelled it as if someone has given it a clean whilst the door was open. Which then obviously leaves the panel behind the open door some what dirty. I also used a scalpel to show scratch marks from the sliding door. 
 

 

I admit going down the lazy approach with the fish train, I should have renumbered all of these fish vans but with about 12 of them I decided to just weather them around the numbers or change one and disguise it with weathering. Considering it’s in a train doing a scale speed you can’t spot it! 
 

 

Something else I like doing is changing the lettering to the post 37? 36? Style but having the original lettering showing through. As seen here with another Bachmann Fish van. 
 

[zr2498]

9 hours ago, westernviscount said:

A couple of weathered items from me...

 

A cambrian kits walrus finished with powders.

 

Parkside shock open, painted with enamels and weathered with powders, applied heavily into wet matt varnish on the metal work to create textured rusting. 

 

A very close shot of a parkside vanfit. Red primer, layered bauxite tones using enamel, overall covering with acrylic brown then attacked with white spirit and a cocktail stick to create wood texture.

 

An upgraded (depending how you see it!)  Lima LMS guv. Weathered with powders fixed with acrylic varnish spray. 

 

And a Dapol standard brake, duckets weathered with rust powders applied to wet varnish. Maskol applied in random rust patterns then painted over with acrylic grey and maskol peeled away.

 

Along with a mineral using the same process as the duckets above. Potentially too rusty for an operational wagon. 

 

 

Cheers for now,

Dave

Dave

I reckon it's time to start your own thread on these weathering techniques - superb, with close ups very realistic.

I like your idea of using wet varnish instead of pigment fixer.

Dave