Doolish Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 My wife has alwways said I should do a blog - so here goes. I have fortunatly been able to get my hands on an MOK Merchant Navy kit which, I understand, has been permanantly withdrawn. I have long been told about the merits of an MOK kit so wanted to try one having build various Finney and Dave Andrews kits. On opening the large box we find 10 packs of assorted parts/castings, but you attention is immediatly drawn to the huge cast boiler - am certainly not going to have to add weight to the finished loco. Then we come to the etches which are all nickle silver and superb. Also a great instruction book with a selection of detail photographs. So - read instructions, identify parts, read instructions again and then cut out the required items for the first assembly - it seems that the kit is built by creating smaller parts that then make up the final assembly. The observant amongst you may notice I am one part short! The kit goes together by slotting parts to each other and then twist to hold firm - I am not convinced yet although it does mean less to clean up prior to assembly, but time is then taken away by having to break off the tabs once all soldered together and cleaning it all up. It does however also require a bit of lateral thinking as there is an order for this to be done or you find you can't get the last piece in - yes I had to undo it all. Out with the trusty soldering iron and 30 mins later we have our first completed unit: I have obtained the wheels from Slaters and a Maxon motor/gearbbox from ABC (a special for this loco I understand). Name plates from Guildplates - it will be United States Line as my son lives in Los Angeles! Will try and update as I go along - would appreciate comments good or bad! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 .....MOK Merchant Navy kit which, I understand, has been permanantly withdrawn..... Hmmm.....that's not what it says on MOK's website.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tavy Man Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 I've always wanted to have the opportunity of building one of these kits, so I will be following this thread with interest. Best of luck building the Southern's finest but from what I hear of the quality of these kits you won't need it. All the best Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbyhorse Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 It does go together well, the only tricky bit is the cab. Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Holt Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Looking forward to following this construction. I'm currently involved with the (re)construction of a 304.8 mm/ft scale model of one of these which is nearing completion and should be running later this year, fingers crossed! It'll be interesting to see how yours compares. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Its a highly desirable kit now, I'm looking forward to watching the build.. Regards Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
djparkins Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 I have fortunatly been able to get my hands on an MOK Merchant Navy kit which, I understand, has been permanantly withdrawn.! I spoke with Dave Sharp of MOK recently, as I require two MN kits and they are only withdrawn at present until he can sort out some issues regarding the casting of a new run of fireboxes for these kits. They are certainly not withdrawn permanently. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doolish Posted July 8, 2015 Author Share Posted July 8, 2015 Have today completed all the sub assemblies that make up the chasis. Am I a fan of slot and tab - well no not at the moment. I was surprised that it was possible to make up a unit backwards (yes I know READ THE INSTRUCTIONS) but I also had a part where the slots were only half etched just to make life difficult. My comment about the kit being withdrawn was after I had been told that at a show. I hope it is rereleased as the finished ones I have seen are superb. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doolish Posted July 9, 2015 Author Share Posted July 9, 2015 Before putting the chasis together I thought I should make up the coupling rods although there is no mention of this in the instructions - in fact there are no instructions to make up the three laminations but got there in the end. Once these were completed I started the construction of the chasis and this is certainly where the slot and tab comes into its own. Very clever to be able to assemble the chasis and check its trueness without having to solder anything. However having completed this I think I should have soldered the hornblocks in before assembly, as one cannot be reached once all parts are in place. The completed item is a work of art Now all soldered up but yet to clean up and remove all the tabs (the downside) Does anyone know if the knuckle joint on a Merchant Navy coupling rod was always behind the centre wheel or were they intrerchangable as on the West Countries? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 .....Does anyone know if the knuckle joint on a Merchant Navy coupling rod was always behind the centre wheel or were they intrerchangable as on the West Countries? The only photos I have seen are of the joint behind. That's not to say that a joint in front didn't happen, though, and the symmetrical wheelbase of 7'6" x 7'6" might have made it easier. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham_Muz Posted July 9, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 9, 2015 Yes knuckle joint was always behind as far as I am aware. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Holt Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 The rods are not interchangeable, despite the even wheel-base. The knuckle joint is always behind the crank-pin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doolish Posted July 10, 2015 Author Share Posted July 10, 2015 Today is one of those days when everything you touch goes wrong. Had intended to complete the cylinders and slide bar bracket and check fit of wheels etc. First the cylinders - am missing the fret that has them on! Slide Bar Bracket - have enough etched parts to make four! Made up two of them but having a problem with inconsistancy of etched bends as some seem have the etch on the inside (normal) but some only work with the etch to the outside. Now I am aware that my kit is an early one and maybe these issues have been sorted in the later kits, but it does mean you have to take twice as long to built each assembly as I am trying the parts out without the bend and then taking it apart to do the bends. Wheels - I will use Dereck Munday crank pins on the last two wheels and use a slaters pin reversed on the fronty for clearance. Now I have a few crank pins in my box of spares, but sods law states that I only have one central crank pin and 8 small ones. Post cheque to get a new set! However fitted wheels do run perfectly with no binding Tried to contact Dave but he was not there so await a call when hopefully he can provide the fret I need. Decided to do a few small jobs to finish off my other project at the moment. Only left now with stripping it down and paint - I hate painting. Time for a drink Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted July 10, 2015 Share Posted July 10, 2015 .... I hate painting..... Yeah....and I hate Devon seaside resorts Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 10, 2015 Share Posted July 10, 2015 The A4 seems to be missing the etched dome cover? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
djparkins Posted July 10, 2015 Share Posted July 10, 2015 Could you please tell us a little about 'Royal Observer Corps' in the A4 picture. Whose kit is it from? etc. Thank You. DJP Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doolish Posted July 10, 2015 Author Share Posted July 10, 2015 The A4 seems to be missing the etched dome cover? Thats an interesting point as I don't have an etch nor is one shown on the finney plans. The dome cover cast into the resin has the rivet detail. Thats for the post though Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 11, 2015 Share Posted July 11, 2015 You are correct...I now recall comparing the Piercy model with the Finney one and noticing that, it had slipped my memory. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doolish Posted July 11, 2015 Author Share Posted July 11, 2015 Could you please tell us a little about 'Royal Observer Corps' in the A4 picture. Whose kit is it from? etc. Thank You. DJP Its a Dave Andrews kit. A lovely kit to make and very good detail. Resin Boiler makes life easy. Had a few problems running on 6ft radius corners as the drop plate was forcing the tender to derail but solved by taking the edges off the plate. The rear bogie also tended to get stuck on the pipework but after a small amount of filing its good now. Has an ABC gearbox and runs a treat. Used on club layout at exhibitions and is super reliable. Chose Royal Observer Corps as I had a trip on the footplate from Eastleigh Station to the shed way back when! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
djparkins Posted July 11, 2015 Share Posted July 11, 2015 Its a Dave Andrews kit. A lovely kit to make and very good detail. Resin Boiler makes life easy. Had a few problems running on 6ft radius corners as the drop plate was forcing the tender to derail but solved by taking the edges off the plate. The rear bogie also tended to get stuck on the pipework but after a small amount of filing its good now. Has an ABC gearbox and runs a treat. Used on club layout at exhibitions and is super reliable. Chose Royal Observer Corps as I had a trip on the footplate from Eastleigh Station to the shed way back when! Many Thanks! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doolish Posted July 11, 2015 Author Share Posted July 11, 2015 Well today has gone a bit better than yesterday. Firstly I had an email from Dave about my problem with missing etches. It would seem that my kit is even earlier than he thought and he can't recall if the etched parts I need were seperate or not. However he hasn't got any of them anyway. He has kindly sent me a copy of the latest instructions and I can already see these are going to be a huge help. As for the cylinders he suggests that perhaps I should try and use the newer cast cylinder block but his 'caster' is away for two weeks! I therefore took some time playing around with what I had and by using parts the instructions say not to use, and using the etches I have as internal laminations rather than external, I can assemble the block and get the wrapper on. The downside is that the faces of the block are now flat rather than contoured but I am happy with how it looks so will stick with them. Now to make the other one. Have also completed the ash pans and fitted them to the chasis with connecting control rods under the chassis. Next is the front bogie so hope that goes forward without problems - certainly the etches look the part. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Holt Posted July 12, 2015 Share Posted July 12, 2015 The chassis is coming along nicely and the various stretchers look very much like the real thing - I've bumped my head on loads of them! Just one thing. The stretcher level with the front of the outside slide-bar brackets looks to represent the rear of the inside cylinder. In which case, you've got it in the wrong way round. The upper, offset hole is for the valve chest, which should be on the RHS, looking forwards on the loco. You've made the same error with the inside slide-bar support, where the rearward mounting for the expansion link should also be on the right. Either that or someone has assembled our full size one the wrong way round! Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doolish Posted July 12, 2015 Author Share Posted July 12, 2015 The chassis is coming along nicely and the various stretchers look very much like the real thing - I've bumped my head on loads of them! Just one thing. The stretcher level with the front of the outside slide-bar brackets looks to represent the rear of the inside cylinder. In which case, you've got it in the wrong way round. The upper, offset hole is for the valve chest, which should be on the RHS, looking forwards on the loco. You've made the same error with the inside slide-bar support, where the rearward mounting for the expansion link should also be on the right. Either that or someone has assembled our full size one the wrong way round! Dave. Thank you Dave - well sort of! This is where I lose my rag. I refer to my second post when I said I built a part the wrong way round - well I had read the instructions and set about making the part. I bent the part inwards along the etch line (fairly standard) and built it up from there. When I finish the assembly I noticed it was the oposite to the photos in the instructions so I took it apart and built it the other way. When I cam to fit the chasis together I noticed that the single spacer with a hole in it didn't fit the way round it is shown in the photo's so filed a bit off the tab and fitted it to line up with the assembly (as shown in the photo's) As I said in my last post I have now been given a set of the latest instructions and low and behold So what the ........ do I do now? The chasis is all soldered up and even if I can get these two items out they too are all soldered. Do I leave it as it is, in which case it will always bug me, or do I rip it all apart? or do I just bin it as I dread to think what other errors etc I am going to come accross. Either way I am distictly unhappy - how can such a well thought of kit manufacturer make such an elementary error? Think I will give it rest today and come back when my head is clearer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium eldavo Posted July 12, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 12, 2015 Will you be able to see the anomaly once it's all bolted together? Cheers Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doolish Posted July 12, 2015 Author Share Posted July 12, 2015 Will you be able to see the anomaly once it's all bolted together? Cheers Dave You will Dave! Seriously that is the question I need an answer to. Roger Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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