My/our coach, carriage & wagon scratch building thread

[gobbler]

You're going to make a 0-6-2 version of the F4/F5?

No DD an F4 / F5 was a 2-4-2. I was toying with the idea hacking the chassis about, the 0-6-2 of the N2 has two differing centres, I thought I could bash it about a bit by getting rid of one pair of driving wheels. From the photos I got, the wheel diameters didn't look too far out. I could of got some Romford possibly to replace them if they looked wrong. I was jus hoping one of the wheel centres were ok.

 

The spacings of the wheel centres are way out for an N7 so using the N2 for that is out the question. I've found the Hornby J68 very close for the driver wheel diameters and wheel centres.

 

Cheers

 

Scott

[gobbler]

Very impressive thread that has got my juices flowing! On a side note: where do you get your plastic sheets and strips from?

Most of the plastic I use is slaters 0.75, 0.5 & 0.25 mm thk

Some of the strip is Evergreen or cut by hand (with varying degrees of success). All bought from my local-ish model shop John Dutfield's in Chelmsford.

 

Hope to see one of your builds......go on, you know you want to......and post a pic on this thread of your progress.

 

Cheers

 

Scott

[gobbler]

Cheers chaps for your comments and advice

 

Anyway a bit more progress on the cattle van.

 

You can see the 'W' irons and suspension nearing completion

 

Here's a 3/4 view showing the hand brake detail.

 

She's looking better day by day

 

Cheers

 

Scott

[dseagull]

Heh, was going to ask last night if you were making the brake gear yourself - should have guessed! Looks excellent. Are the rivets slices of rod, or do you use a tool?

 

Third & final old magazine of my order arrived today, but I obviously got the wrong reference, as it contains an article on building a Roxey kit of the 54' Brake Third, rather than building it from scratch. Never mind, it's a useful article as some of the details have been added, so will be filed for future use.

 

Hopefully the Plasticard turns up tomorrow. 

[gobbler]

Heh, was going to ask last night if you were making the brake gear yourself - should have guessed! Looks excellent. Are the rivets slices of rod, or do you use a tool?

 

Third & final old magazine of my order arrived today, but I obviously got the wrong reference, as it contains an article on building a Roxey kit of the 54' Brake Third, rather than building it from scratch. Never mind, it's a useful article as some of the details have been added, so will be filed for future use.

 

Hopefully the Plasticard turns up tomorrow.

 

Rivets......stretched sprue from one of my tank kits

 

(1/35 Sherman firefly hybrid, back half m4 Tamiya, front glacis italeri m4 turret Tasca) another kit bash and scratch

 

Scott

Edited March 10, 2018 by gobbler

[FPH 603]

No DD an F4 / F5 was a 2-4-2. I was toying with the idea hacking the chassis about, the 0-6-2 of the N2 has two differing centres, I thought I could bash it about a bit by getting rid of one pair of driving wheels. From the photos I got, the wheel diameters didn't look too far out. I could of got some Romford possibly to replace them if they looked wrong. I was jus hoping one of the wheel centres were ok.

The spacings of the wheel centres are way out for an N7 so using the N2 for that is out the question. I've found the Hornby J68 very close for the driver wheel diameters and wheel centres.

Cheers

Scott

I see. I was already aware that the F4/F5 was a 2-4-2 but what you're planning sounds interesting.

[Annie]

That cattle van is a thing of beauty.  Superb model making  

[gobbler]

I see. I was already aware that the F4/F5 was a 2-4-2 but what you're planning sounds interesting.

Cheers.

 

It all be down to driving wheel centres really

 

Scott

Edited March 10, 2018 by gobbler

[gobbler]

Been quite productive today

 

Here's some pix of what's been happening.

 

The first end have added the torpedo vents and the emergency gear.

 

The second end showing the foot steps and grab rails.

 

First side some of the brake details.

 

The last picture showing the other side of the brake gear.

 

All that's left I think is couplings, paint and some decals.

 

TTFN

 

Scott

[Compound2632]

This is excellent stuff. At some point one does reach the limit of what it's practicable make oneself from plastic - buffers being the most obvious. I'd be interested in your rationale for not buying in etched W-irons, as for these both the strength and finer thickness of brass would appear to be an advantage, along with the accuracy of the components which is critical for a smooth-running vehicle without compensation.

[gobbler]

This is excellent stuff. At some point one does reach the limit of what it's practicable make oneself from plastic - buffers being the most obvious. I'd be interested in your rationale for not buying in etched W-irons, as for these both the strength and finer thickness of brass would appear to be an advantage, along with the accuracy of the components which is critical for a smooth-running vehicle without compensation.

Well Stephen......

 

I have a meagre budget to say the least. I'd rather put the money I save in certain areas and spend it where I know I have too i.e. Reference material, Wheels, bearing cups, 10A scalpel blades, screw link couplings, buffers as you say, torpedo vents and other building materials.

 

It was an experiment to start with, but they have the strength and overall don't look too bad.

 

I've either been lucky or skilful as the horse box and cattle van don't wobble and run really smoothly.

 

I'm always on the look out for stuff I can use in my modelling, recently I've found the metal take-away tins good source of thin metal for brackets (as used on the vertical emergency gear brass wire)

 

And that's basically the thinking behind all that I do.

 

Cheers

 

Scott

Edited March 10, 2018 by gobbler

[gobbler]

With regard to my cattle and horse box.

 

What colour were they?

 

A) a brown shade?

B) crimson?

C) maroon?

 

Me-thinks a brown, but what shade?

 

Ta...

 

Scott

[Clive Mortimore]

With regard to my cattle and horse box.

 

What colour were they?

 

A) a brown shade?

B) crimson?

C) maroon?

 

Me-thinks a brown, but what shade?

 

Ta...

 

Scott

Hi Scott

 

The horse box and prize cattle wagon were rated as non carrying passenger stock so would have been in the same livery as parcels stock for your time period.

[gobbler]

Hi Scott

 

The horse box and prize cattle wagon were rated as non carrying passenger stock so would have been in the same livery as parcels stock for your time period.

Crimson (1959-ish, transitional period) then with a good coat of dirt.

 

Cheers Clive

 

Scott

[boeing7572t6]

PM sent Scott

[jwealleans]

As these were pregrouping vehicles they’d be unlikely to be crimson. Most were kept brown as they were earmarked for early withdrawal.

[Izzy]

I know these had through pipes to allow running in passenger trains, but would the brakes have been upgraded to both sides in later years, or did they just remain very basic one-sided affairs for when stationary? Smashing modelling whatever, really shows what can be achieved with basic materials and a bit (!) of work.

 

With regard to w-irons I have just recently fiddled about with a pair of Hornby TTE coaches to get some BR 4-wheel CCT's on the cheap. Not brilliant, but usable. As the wheels and w-irons on these are all wrong in respect of size I did a cut-and-shut job on the w-irons and made some inside bearing w-irons from K&S brass sheet since I didn't think it would be possible to get them to take pin-point bearings and hold the wheels securely in the correct position once I had cut them about. The wheels (P4) run quite well enough for my needs and the vertical movement of the axles provides all the basic compensation needed. Might be an idea to consider if the plasticard w-irons/axleboxes give problems at any stage in later times.

 

 

 

 

 

kind regards

 

Izzy

 

[gobbler]

Izzy

 

With regard the brakes, all reference and pictures I have show just the one side. The drawing I have shows calipers either side of the wheels.

 

Nice bashes btw

 

Scott

[boeing7572t6]

Scott

I thought I had explained earlier in my pm. If you look at the drawing in Vol3 , the end-on drawing shows brakes on each side and vac/ Westinghouse piping. ie as built. The photo from late in the van’s life shows no brakes or brake handle on one side, but vac pipes. Conclusion, the vans have been altered to through piped and there is a manually applied brake on one side only. Whether it is a single shoe or 2 single shoes like one sided minerals for example I can’t say. I have never seen a hand brake only wagon/van with clasp brakes on one side only.

Van looks good btw, I’m nearly ready to start my 7mm version, just need to finish my Barclay 0-4-0 before starting yet another project.

[gobbler]

Got it boeing, but the picture I'm following only has one side and is dated late 50's.

 

That aside I've continued work on my 'neddy' wagon.

 

 

Comments always welcome

 

Scott

Edited March 11, 2018 by gobbler

[dseagull]

 Well after the superb workmanship displayed in your last post I was a little reluctant to post my initial efforts, but it is your encouragement and clear explanations which has encouraged me to give it a go - so here we go.

 

LBSCR Van from Terry Gough's article in the October 1970 Railway Modeller.

 

As you can see, I've got no further than the basic box marked out and assembled as yet, as I haven't got the plasticard strip I will need for the strapping (10 thou) or the underframe 

 

 

 

I was a little concerned that the side in particular seemed to be flexing quite a bit after I'd scored the planking, but the floor seems to have sorted this out. I think next time I need to either not quite score quite so hard, or not use the cutting end of the scalpel blade.

 

I'm also not overly happy with the top curve of the end, but think I should be able to fix this with the roof. I'll pick up the bits I need to complete over the next few weeks, then try another couple before moving on to something a bit more complex.

 

 

 

 

[Buhar]

I was a little concerned that the side in particular seemed to be flexing quite a bit after I'd scored the planking, but the floor seems to have sorted this out. I think next time I need to either not quite score quite so hard, or not use the cutting end of the scalpel blade.

 

John Hayes (4mm Coal Wagon) suggests using a block inside the completed (or near completed) wagon as a former to straighten the sides out and then dunking it in near boiling water for a few seconds.  The theory is to stabilise the material into a new shape (or its old shape in this case), the same as forming a curve.

[gobbler]

It's nice to see you having a go dseagull.

 

How are you marking your timber panel lines?

 

I personally use a scalpel and vernier. Being gentle with the tip of the scalpel make a light score, almost undetectable, then with a grubby moist finger, rub the surface and the score line will appear.

 

What may help with your roof radius, by the drawing it looks like a single arc, in which case, go through your crockery for cups etc and see if one matches or is very close to the radius on the drawing.

 

For a first bash it's looking great. As you build more you'll refine your techniques.

 

Keep up the good work.

 

Scott

[gobbler]

Neddy wagon has progressed a little.

 

Doors have been scribed, basic hinge detail, stretched sprue for the hinges and rivet heads.

 

With my take away tin tray I've made the brackets for the top door closing mechanism

 

TTFN

 

Scott

[dseagull]

It's nice to see you having a go dseagull.

 

How are you marking your timber panel lines?

 

I personally use a scalpel and vernier. Being gentle with the tip of the scalpel make a light score, almost undetectable, then with a grubby moist finger, rub the surface and the score line will appear.

 

What may help with your roof radius, by the drawing it looks like a single arc, in which case, go through your crockery for cups etc and see if one matches or is very close to the radius on the drawing.

 

For a first bash it's looking great. As you build more you'll refine your techniques.

 

Keep up the good work.

 

Scott

 

 

Thanks for the encouragement!

 

I used a scalpel and steel rule - a Vernier is on the shopping list, but suspect I may have scored too hard. on the first side. Second side looks better and the ends better still, so moving in the right direction!

 

Excellent tip for the roof curves - and by some kind of miracle, the first item I compared against the drawing (a lid from one of the kids' plastic cups) is a bang-on match!