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magmouse

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Well, the comments section of the last post took us down some interesting and delightfully esoteric byways, regarding the patenting of sheet supporters...

This post will perhaps be more straightforward, though hopefully it will include a few things of interest - its about a Slaters kit for a private owner wagon, 'Ocean':

 

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This kit was bought as part of a lot of three wagon kits on eBay - they were all old kits, but unstarted. The price was not a bargain, but reasonable, or so I thought until the kits arrived and I discovered they had coarse scale wheels, which I had to replace. That will teach me to examine the photos more closely.

 

Another issue with this kit was that the ends were mysteriously for a seven plank wagon, not this six-planker. Whether this was a packing error by Slaters all those years ago, or someone had swapped them since for no obvious reason, I don't know. Anyway, it was no problem to sort out - fill a plank groove and cut the top down. Here they are, one already cut down on the left, with the one on the right still to do:

 

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Due to its age, I found the lettering on the pre-printed sides was rather yellowed, and the print hadn't taken all that well to the black paint, leaving the lettering a bit mottled. The print process also means the lettering doesn't get into the plank grooves. To remedy this, I carefully painted over the lettering with white acrylic paint (Vallejo). This was a fiddly job, and required some touching up of the black, but the print letters give you a clear outline to aim for. With the smaller lettering at the bottom, I found I just needed to touch in the main strokes of the letters, not follow every detail, enough to brighten things up and make the lettering 'pop'.

 

The Pressfix transfers provided for the wagon number had largely lost their stickiness, but I managed to get them to adhere for long enough to get some matt varnish on them to bind everything in place. These too got a touch up with white paint, to keep everything consistent.

 

I did all this work on the sides before assembly - much easier than working on the completed wagon. I find with Slaters wagon kits the floor isn't necessarily the right size to guarantee all four corners will meet correctly if you just glue the sides onto the floor. I glue two pairs of one side and one end together first, making sure they are held square while the glue sets. I then check how these two 'L' shaped pieces fit together, and onto the floor, making any necessary adjustments before final assembly - either trimming the floor or packing it out with some microstrip glued to the edge.

 

The rest of the construction process was pretty straightforward, as per the Slaters instructions. The corners needed some filling:

 

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The Slaters brake gear is generally OK, but I replaced the lever and lever guard with etched parts from Ambis, which give a nice sense of delicacy compared with the plastic ones. The brake shoes were also cut down to represent non-reversible ones, correct for my period. I also made the safety loops from nickel silver strip, for a finer effect than the moulded ones provided.

 

I also added the cap strip on the top of the sides and ends out of microstrip, and made a basic representation of the internal washer plates. As the wagon was going to be loaded, I didn't bother with internal plank lines, or the washer plates below the top of the sides:

 

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The kit came without anything to represent the hinge bar for the end door. Other kits have this as a plastic moulding, so it might have been missing from mine, or perhaps the older kits didn't have it. I made the hinge from brass wire and nickel silver strip, seen here ready to be soldered up:

 

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And here it is assembled into the wagon, attached with CA glue. The uprights attached to the inside of the sides are in plastic, with the nickel silver hinges doing the structural work:

 

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With some paint on the inside - grey and brown coats and dry brushing for the wood, and black for the metalwork - it was nearly finished:

 

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For the coal load, I made a former of a stack of corrugated cardboard, carved to shape and covered in papier-mâché (newspaper and diluted PVA). This was varnished with gloss varnish to make it waterproof:

 

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I then sealed the edges between the former and the inside of the wagon with some filler - I used diluted PVA to glue in the real coal load, and I didn't want it running down into the bottom of the wagon in large quantities. It's worth looking at photos of loaded coal wagons to get the right kind of shape to the pile, when making the former.

 

With that done, it was a case of buffers and couplings (chemically blackened plus some black paint), then any final touching up of the paintwork. I've left the wagon un-weathered - I liked the patina from the original Slaters paintwork combined with my various touch-ups, plus the 'painterly' quality of the lettering, which is so much nicer than the original printed lettering. Many private owner wagons were leased, typically over a seven year period with a mid-term overhaul and repaint as part of the contract, so they often looked cleaner and fresher than railway company wagons. I'm sure I will do some other PO wagons in a grubbier state, but for now I imagine Ocean 917 is fresh from its overhaul, and back at work bringing anthracite from South Wales to Dorset...

 

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Nick.

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Nice. Making the hinge bar like that gives a far sharper finish than a plastic moulding 

 

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9 hours ago, Dave John said:

Nice. Making the hinge bar like that gives a far sharper finish than a plastic moulding 

 

 

Thanks - yes, there is something satisfying about making these details using the same process as the prototype - in this case, cutting bending bar and strip material to shape. It is also an example of a detail we tend not to notice in photos of the prototype, but which are more obvious in models which we tend to view from higher viewpoints.

 

Nick.

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"We" - the global fraternity of 7mm modellers - have a problem with this wagon and it is a problem that has been brought to Slater's attention.

 

Ian Pope and I have spent many hours looking through the GWR Freighter registers - predecessor to RCH registers - and have not been able to locate this wagon.  Ian has a copy  of the Gloster official for this wagon and there are no likely orders in the registers which could correspond with the photo date.  Unfortunately the details of the plates on the wagon solebar do not identify the wagon precisely and hence a match with the registers is not possible.

 

Sorry, regards, Graham

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15 minutes ago, Western Star said:

"We" - the global fraternity of 7mm modellers - have a problem with this wagon and it is a problem that has been brought to Slater's attention.

 

Ian Pope and I have spent many hours looking through the GWR Freighter registers - predecessor to RCH registers - and have not been able to locate this wagon.  Ian has a copy  of the Gloster official for this wagon and there are no likely orders in the registers which could correspond with the photo date.  Unfortunately the details of the plates on the wagon solebar do not identify the wagon precisely and hence a match with the registers is not possible.

 

Sorry, regards, Graham

 

Thanks Graham - yes, I became aware of the curious case of this 'phantom' number 917 after I built it. I think you may have mentioned it when I posted a photo previously on the forum in some context or other. At the risk of being burnt as a heretic, I have to say I can't get too exercised about wagon numbers. Some people go to great lengths to get the correct wagon/coach/loco numbers for the specific example they are modelling, period, location, and so on, and I genuinely admire their diligence and need for accuracy in this regard. I just don't share it.

 

On the other hand, I have recently picked up another Slaters 'Ocean' kit, so I will try to ensure that has a number that is a little more substantial than the ghostly 917!

 

Nick.

 

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The pillow like sub-base for the coal load is excellent - not something I'd really noticed or thought much about, I've usually just used a thickness of mdf to reduce the amount of coal required without considering the filled shape. Thankfully, the mdf is removable (there's a hole in the base of the wagons to push the load out) so I will give your system a try.  The Ambis brake parts are also a step up from the ones supplied in the kit - whenever I look up Ambis, I don't seem to find them, could I ask where you source them?

Kit PW

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38 minutes ago, magmouse said:

The 7mm scale components are sold through Hobby Holidays

Nick- thanks.  It's 7mm I'm after, not 4mm so that's very helpful.  Looking at the "Ocean" wagon, I'm tempted to order enough for my whole wagon fleet (all of 6!) and institute a programme of replacement.

Kit PW

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A lovely wagon. I like your balanced detailing, focusing on the bits that really make a difference without being excessive. The touch-ups of the lettering work very well, I think. 

 

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until the kits arrived and I discovered they had coarse scale wheels, which I had to replace

 

I can see how ebay purchases require extra care in 7mm scale. I have a small stash of 7mm items, and have already had your experience twice. "Not to worry" says I, "will just get some replacement wheels". Then I saw their price!

 

 

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1 hour ago, Mikkel said:

I like your balanced detailing, focusing on the bits that really make a difference without being excessive.

 

Thanks, Mikkel. Finding that balance is important, I think. I'm always trying to work out which parts are critical to capturing the character of the wagon, and which you can not worry about. The balance between 'chunkiness' and 'delicacy' is more important than the exact positioning of a detail, at least most of the time. I think that's why changing the brake lever, lever guard and safety loops pays such dividends - they are the bits that need to look like they are made from flat metal. Get those right, and somehow the fact the brake pushrods are solid, and not two separate strips, doesn't much matter.

 

And, yes, the price of wheels... At least, in O gauge, you only need 4/7ths as many of them, all other things being equal!

 

Nick.

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Interesting thoughts, I think you are right.

 

Of course, some might argue that such a "strategic" approach to detailing is at odds with the philosophy that consistency is key - i.e. that if you detail one thing you must also detail everything else to the same degree, or it will look wrong. While this is certainly true in some respects, I think there are situations where it doesn't necessarily apply, such as here.

 

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I think the idea of ‘consistency’ needs to be taken in context. Consistency of colour palette across a whole layout, yes, that makes sense and is important. When it comes to the level of detail, it’s like theatre, or painting - put the detail where it matters, and it will be noticed, and let other elements settle into the background.

 

Nick.

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