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GWR Iron Mink - fitted for passenger train working (part 1)


magmouse

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The iron covered goods wagon, codename 'Mink', is a familiar, perhaps even iconic, feature of the GWR from 1886 onwards. Less well known is the small number of vehicles built with a standard iron mink body but passenger-rated running gear, akin to that of horse boxes of the time. Details can be found in the HMRS publication All About GWR Iron Minks by JH Lewis et al., which has a drawing and a couple of photographs.

 

Originally intended for use on branch line passenger services, they seem not to have been a great success in that role, with several being reallocated to other uses soon after being built. However, it seemed like a nice idea to build one for the Netherport branch, especially as it presented an opportunity to have an iron mink in red livery, as a counterpoint to my grey, 1904-liveried example. I also thought it would be good to build the Dean vacuum brake gear, which I haven't done before, as I have several more vehicles planned that need it. Most of all, the 3'6" wheels, 10' wheelbase, steps and clasp brake gear, all under a normal iron mink body, had a quirky appeal.

 

The starting point was an ABS kit, intended for use as a grounded van body:

 

 

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The doors with vertical planking, as supplied in the kit, were a later modification, so I needed to make new doors to the original design. My initial plan was to cut the top off the cast doors and solder this to the side castings to make the lintel. Before assembling the body, I cut out the back of the solebars to accommodate the cast springs, which came from the Broad Gauge Society. I also cut away the metal where the vee-hangers needed to be, to get them closer to the correct position - otherwise they would be set back too far due to the thickness of the cast solebar.

 

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Before assembly, I also drilled holes and cut the solebar flange away to fit the Slaters lost-wax cast step supports:

 

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The sides and end castings needed a fair amount of fettling to get them to fit snugly, but once this is done the body goes together well. I used low-melt solder at the top and bottom of the corners to hold the body together while I checked alignment, then I soldered down the inside of the corners:

 

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The springs are not exactly right - they are the correct length, but the shackles attaching the spring ends to the solebar are not quite the right design. The spring castings come with a tab at the top to fit on the back of the solebar, which went into the cut-out I had made previously:

 

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I made the doors with plasticard and Evergreen plastic strip, with hinges from rod. The long bolt fastening the door and the handrails (a distinctive feature of this iron mink variant) are from wire, while the chains for the pins of the middle and bottom latches are twisted fine fuse wire. I decided at this point to remove the cast lintel and build it from placard as part of the door, as the cast ones were slightly uneven along their length once filed to the roof profile.

 

The plasticard lintels will be filed to profile later, once the doors are fitted:

 

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I wanted to make the floor detachable, with all the running and brakegear fixed to it, to make assembling the fiddly brake gear easier. The wheels are therefore mounted with inside bearings, using modified parts from the Broad Gauge Society.

 

I soldered two pieces of double-sided PCB inside the body, as mounting points for the underframe:

 

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The axle guards don't hold the bearings, and are soldered to the inside of the body assembly, over the tab of the spring castings, which were filed back a bit to create a flat surface:

 

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I soldered in the step supports. The castings are not completely straight and true, but can be carefully bent into the correct shape. I waited to do this until I added the steps and could get everything aligned in one go. There is a risk of breaking the castings by bending them too often.

 

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The steps themselves are made of brass angle, with the vertical side cut down to the right height. It's all soldered together for strength:

 

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The brass angle is too thin to represent the wooden steps of the prototype, so I used plasticard strip to build up the thickness. The strip was attached with cyanoacrylate glue:

 

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The doors are not fixed at this point, just posed for the photos. I felt it was better to leave attaching them as late as possible, to avoid damage and improve access.

 

The axleboxes are ABS castings, with the tops modified to connect to the springs as per the prototype. They look a bit of a mess here, but a layer of thin plasticard will fix that:

 

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A few more details - spring stops and document box added to the solebars, and holes drilled for the attachment of a horse hook, as well as the end vents fitted:

 

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Axle boxes sorted:

 

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The buffers are Slaters long GWR type, on packed-out bases as per the prototype. The holes in the headstock castings are much too big for the spigot on the back of the buffers, making it hard to get the spacing and alignment correct. I therefore used this rather comedic clamping arrangement while the glue dried:

 

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So that completes the body and underframe - next time, the running gear.

 

Nick.

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13 Comments


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That's an interesting project, Nick. Tempting. And very neat work as always.

 

I like those clamps, can I ask what the source is?

 

 

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Thanks, Mikkel. The clamps are hair grips, readily available online in a range of variations. These ones are stainless steel, rather than plated, and so don’t take solder when using them to hold parts for soldering. They are cheap enough to modify for specific jobs, cutting and bending them as required.
 

Nick.

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Thank you Nick, a variety of different types available I see. Will get some.

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I’m sure you’re right, Simon - I should try thinking, rather than reading and repeating! Even so, the point stands - solder doesn’t easily stick to them (unlike some I bought more recently, which have some kind of shiny plating, probably over steel as they are quite springy).

 

Nick

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9 hours ago, Chrisbr said:

Excellent work as ever, the new doors look great

 

Thanks, Chris. Yes, the doors have come out well. The build as a whole has been a bit frustrating, and a reminder of the limitations of whitemetal as a material. While Adrian Swain was an excellent pattern-maker, the nature of the process means the two sides are not quite identical, presumably due to slightly different shrinkage of the parts on cooling. As a result, nothing is exactly square, and it is difficult to find suitable reference points when fitting parts such as the springs and axle guards, to get them square, level and symmetrical.

 

If you look closely, there are all sorts of slight anomalies which you don’t get with an injection-moulded plastic kit. Hopefully once complete and painted the overall effect will be OK, but it will be slightly more ‘impressionistic’ than some of my other builds.

 

Nick.

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Not the easiest of things to put together but it seems to be turning out pretty well. Getting the doors into the right relationship to the sides looks to be worth the effort and all nicely detailed too. 

 

What have you got up your sleeve for the roof ? 

 

And the underframe - as you know, I've been working on the underframe and braking gear of the N5 horsebox with the externally linked clasp brake system:  I did one end first and learnt a lot, in particular, to put the draw hook and buffers in before assembling the brakes as fitting them after proved near impossible with the brake rigging in the way.

 

Kit PW

 

 

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Thanks, Kit.

 

I am working on the roof at the moment. The plan is to do it in brass, with the rivets round the edge done with my newly-acquired GW rivet press. In part, this is because I want to develop my skills of working in metal before I tackle a loco build. The strips that go across the roof, joining the sheets, need a very closely spaced double row of rivets, so I will probably do these with Archers or Rail-tec transfers.

 

Thanks for the thoughts about the underframe and brake gear. It is a bit easier on this than your horsebox because mine has the later, simpler system without the outside links. I have built the running gear and brakes on a removable floor, which stops slightly short of the headstocks, so getting the buffers in should be possible before attaching the floor. The couplings may have to be glued in, but I’m not to bothered if they aren’t sprung.

 

Nick

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kitpw

Posted (edited)

Off topic, sort of, I followed the link you posted on the D299 thread to magmouse.co.uk - very nice photos, some of them of familar scenes in the south west of London and of Bude and the coast up towards Hartland which I know well.  I meant to post about it weeks ago but have been working, (not full time nowadays) and travelling and I can't seem to write more than a couple of (misspelt) words on a mobile phone.

 

The Mink roof is challenging and I'll look forward to seeing how you get on - I've never used the Archer type rivet transfers but it sounds the right way to go with those paired rows of rivets.

 

Kit PW

Edited by kitpw
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If I were tackling the rivetted strips, I think I’d take some thin sheet, and put a few double rows of rivets in it, and then cut out the strips, and sweat them on.  Doing it the other way about will not work out, I feel.  
 

As an aside, the GW press is an excellent bit of kit, but I can’t help thinking it’s a bit old fashioned.  There’s a picture somewhere of a lathe with a rivet press clamped to the main slide - the main & cross feeds are much easier to use than the GW press handwheels, and you could, in principle, use the top slide too.  Of course, this isn’t helpful if you don’t have a lathe…

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1 hour ago, drduncan said:

Nick,

Lovely work!

Duncan


Thanks, Duncan!

 

2 hours ago, kitpw said:

Off topic, sort of, I followed the link you posted on the D299 thread to magmouse.co.uk - very nice photos, some of them of familar scenes in the south west of London and of Bude and the coast up towards Hartland which I know well.


Thanks, Kit - I’m glad you enjoyed some of my photography. I haven’t updated the Flickr for ages - I seem to have time for either photography or modelling, but not both. Like you, I am working part time, at least in theory - hopefully when I fully retire I’ll be able to fit both in.

 

34 minutes ago, Simond said:

If I were tackling the rivetted strips, I think I’d take some thin sheet, and put a few double rows of rivets in it, and then cut out the strips, and sweat them on.  Doing it the other way about will not work out, I feel.  


Thanks, Simon. Yes, that makes sense - the rivets on the joining strips are small and the two rows are very close together. The strip is only 2.5 inches wide on the prototype, so small, even in 7mm scale.

 

36 minutes ago, Simond said:

As an aside, the GW press is an excellent bit of kit, but I can’t help thinking it’s a bit old fashioned.  There’s a picture somewhere of a lathe with a rivet press clamped to the main slide - the main & cross feeds are much easier to use than the GW press handwheels, and you could, in principle, use the top slide too.  Of course, this isn’t helpful if you don’t have a lathe…


No lathe here, sadly, and currently nowhere sensible to put one. One day, hopefully. I agree a lathe could form the basis of a nice riveting solution, and it’s always nice to get extra value from existing kit. The GW press isn’t exactly cheap, but it isn’t crazy expensive either, so hopefully it will do what I need for now.

 

Nick.

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