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‘Rob Roy’ Re-Framed


MikeOxon

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Six years ago, in June 2017, I embarked on scratch-building a model of the Broad Gauge ‘Waverley class’ engine ‘Rob Roy’. The prototype was involved in an accident near Bullo Pill, where some of my wife’s ancestors were working for the GWR at the time.

 

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‘Rob Roy’ – Accident near Bullo Pill, 1868

 

I took advantage of the fact that the boiler used for the Waverley-class was the same as that on the Gooch Standard Goods engines, for which the Broad Gauge Society (BGS) provide an etched-brass kit.. My old series of posts described in sometimes graphic detail how I constructed the kit, which involved rolling a boiler from rather thin brass sheet.

 

After completing the boiler from the kit, I was then faced with scratch building the chassis, which I also constructed from brass sheet.. The process was not without its problems, especially when fabricating the bicycle-style splashers over the large driving wheels but, after much trial and error, I ended up with a passable model.

 

One major compromise, however, was that I used wheels supplied by Hornby for their ‘Lord of the Isles’ model.  I chose these because they have the required 24 spokes and these exposed driving wheels create a large part of the ‘character’ of the Waverley-class engines. Unfortunately, the wheels are over-size and this not only means they stand a little too tall but also that they had to be more widely spaced than on the prototype. At the time, I felt I had to live with the compromise but now that I have the means to print my own wheels, I felt I should try something better.

 

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My first scratch built model of Rob Roy, with Hornby driving wheels

 

 

Enter my 3D-Printer

 

The advent of 3D printing completely changed my approach to model building and I realise that there’s now no need to undertake the tricky fabrication of splashers from brass sheet and nor do I have to cut out the profiles of the sandwich frames by hand.

 

All I had to do was find a suitable drawing – I chose the one by E.W. Twining – and trace over it in ‘Fusion 360’ before extruding the drawings into 3D structures. My methods have been amply described in earlier blog posts but one of the important lessons I have learned is that it is possible to extrude the valances around the outer rim of the splashers without the need for any additional support during printing. This method worked successfully on my ‘Firefly’ model  and I applied it again here.

 

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Extruded Frame over Twining 'Canvas' in Fusion 360

 

I then created a mirror image of this first frame and separated the frames at the appropriate distance, linking them be means of a buffer beam and drag bar, as shown below (rendered in Fusion 360):

 

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3D model of chassis, rendered in Fusion 360

 

As on my previous model, I filled the open space under the front of the boiler by adding a motion plate and ‘suggesting’ part of the motion. Further back, any underpinnings are hidden by the sandboxes and splashers.

 

 

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3D model of chassis with motion plate added

 

 

Printing the Components

 

The next step was to pass the various components to the Cura slicing software and then to my 3D printer, which created the following components:

 

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3D printed chassis components, together with my boiler assembly,

constructed from a BGS etched-brass kit

 

Once assembled, the chassis looks as shown below, with the boiler supported by the curved motion plate. An advantage of designing the model in ‘Fusion 360’ is that the ‘fit’ of all the parts can be tested before committing them to print. This was especially valuable for this model, in view of the tight tolerances between the splashers and the driving wheels. Note that, as in the prototype, the hind wheels are flanged but the forward pair of drivers are not.

 

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3D-printed Chassis and Wheels after assembly

 

Although I had felt reasonably content with my original fabricated chassis, mainly because I was unable to improve on the over-size wheels at the time, I realise now how ‘wrong’ it looks, when placed together with the 3D printed version!

 

 

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My original chassis in front of the 3D printed version,

carrying my original brass boiler assembly

 

Overall, 3D-printing this chassis was a lot easier than using traditional methods, now that I am reasonably familiar with the ‘Fusion 360’ software. Of course, it is an option that was simply not available to me when I built my first model.

 

Now I have to add the brass finishing to the splashers and valances.

 

End of an era

 

This is probably the last model that I shall print with my ‘Geeetech’ E180 printer. It has given a few problems recently, first with the feed mechanism and now the hot-end temperature has become erratic. This printer uses a modular print-head, specific to this model, and Geeetech have informed me that replacements are no longer available.

 

After some thought, I’ve decided to buy a Prusa Mini+, partly because I prefer to buy a European product (although I have no complaints about the Geeetech company). I shall report my impressions once I receive the new printer.

 

Mike

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7 Comments


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Thank you for taking us on this journey, the new chassis does look a good deal better. How do you feel you would change your approach if you decided to motorise your engines?

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Thank you @Lacathedrale.  It's a good question! 

 

The first requirement would be metal tyres for the driving wheels.  Apparently, the BGS is looking into the possibility of supplying tyres for various large-size broad gauge wheels.  After that it's a case of where to install the motor and gearbox. 

 

My usual 'cop out' has been to go for a motorised tender and, in the case of single-driver engines, this remains a good option.  For a 4-4-0 like this, with a large boiler and firebox, it should be easy to accommodate these components. 

 

Before embarking on that road, though, I'd need to build some track to run on!!!  Perhaps ... one day 🙂

 

I'm glad you think the new chassis looks a good deal better - it also cost a lot less in blood (literally), tears, and sweat.

 

Mike

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The comparison of new and old does emphasis the step-change in modelling technology. My feeling about 3D printing remains that it is not a universal panacea but in many cases is best used as part of a multi-media approach - which is not to criticise what you are doing here for a static model but rather results from my own experiences of working with kits that are wholly or partly 3D printed. With that in mind, and recognising that making the brass splasher valances is a challenge in any medium, I am intrigued to know how thin you have been able to make them and whether there has had to be any compromise on overall width or on width over driving wheel faces?

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3 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

My feeling about 3D printing remains that it is not a universal panacea but in many cases is best used as part of a multi-media approach

I agree entirely with this multi-media approach.  Many of my 'hybrid' models have brass boilers with 3D printed cladding that carries surface details.  The same applies to frames, which are better made from brass (or nickel silver), with 3D printed overlays to carry rivet detail, etc.

 

3 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

recognising that making the brass splasher valances is a challenge in any medium, I am intrigued to know how thin you have been able to make them and whether there has had to be any compromise on overall width or on width over driving wheel faces?

In 4mm scale, I have had to make compromises and the splasher tops are over-width.  That can be partly 'hidden' by only applying the brass finish to the outer part and leaving the excess width matt black.  The best face I can put on it is that the printed plastic is non-conducting, so less likely to cause short circuits to the wheels!

 

I had almost forgotten that a few years ago, i experimented with the idea of using 3D printing to produce templates around which to shape thin brass splashers - see :

Perhaps I should explore that idea a bit further.

 

Since then, I have found that I can push the limits of 3D printing a little further to produce thinner sections and overhanging valances. Nevertheless 0.5mm (20thou) is about the limit for panel thickness.

 

A lot of my modelling is done on a whim - I had a career in research and my modelling follows the same vein, so I am usually trying out a new technique or researching a period of history.  One of my reasons for wanting to try a Prusa printer is because it can work with a wider range of filament materials and I want to see how this capability might be exploited.

 

Thank you for your interesting comments.

 

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Mikkel

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Hi Mike. Some lovely complex shapes on that chassis. I know the software techniques involved are supposed to be simple in principle, but putting it together and printing it to produce that outcome could hardly be done without all the experiments and experience that you've generated over the years. Must be very satisfying, and a fitting swan song for your Geeetech printer.

 

I was looking at the website of a well-established manufacturer of brass kits with whitemetal components yesterday, describing their growing difficulties in sourcing materials, etchers etc. My first thought was that 3D printing is also an answer to those problems. Or is it? The printing machines aren't made from air, nor are the outputs. Someone must be working on biodegradable 3D printing materials? Note: I'm not moralising, I actively produce microplastics every day with my own modelling and don't feel good about it. I'm just reflecting on the wider potential of 3D printing.

 

Edited by Mikkel
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Thank you @Mikkel.  It's strange how 'experience' creeps up on one - I looked back at some cattle wagons I designed a few years ago and some of the methods I used seem laughably clumsy now..

 

The PLA fillament I use is reasonably bio-friendy, being based on starch.and I am content using it in a domestic environment.

 

3D printing is not a quick process and dies not lend itself to repetitive manufacture, although it is possible to use it to make the master for lost-wax castings..  I like to use the method in conjunction with stronger materials, such as brass, for the mechanical parts of models.  The chassis I show here is fine for a static model but would need more rigidity and suitable bearings for a working model.

 

What I have enjoyed is the opportunity that 3D printing has given me to explore historical aspects that will never attract mainstream suppliers.  I have learned a lot about how early vehicles were built by trying to replicate them in model form.  The ability to re-create such things has given me a great deal of pleasure and I share Brunel's view that these engines can be seen as 'works of art'.

 

Mike

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Thanks Mike, that page on filaments is useful to learn from.

 

Glad to see that you have been restoring photos. I set up a back-up blog many years ago during a time of RMweb instability. I rarely go there myself but it's nice to know I have the text and photos stored together as full posts somewhere else too.

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