Hi all, following kind advice from Mick Bonwick about oil showing through powder weathering, I had a look at this. I thought my findings might be useful if you have the same problem, or you are going to start weathering a loco with powders. These are not meant to be definitive instructions or a recipe success, just my thoughts about what I did and what I discovered, and what I'd do next time. If you cock it up yourself, using any of this material or anything else, then (in the nicest possible
I've been trying out a technique several people have told me to try, one which I haven't managed to get working in the past. For some reason, it now seems to work - don't know what I was doing wrong before, but at least it's another technique to add to the arsenal.
It involves boiling water, and dipping the warped part of the print in for a few seconds. Then bend it to shape (with something heatproof) and hold until it cools down again. It's not perfect, you do end up with a slightly
Over the few years I've been a member of RMWeb, I seem to have erroneously created several blogs. My clumsy grasp of computers has been a bit frustrating as I never know where I've posted and have a horrible habit of posting new material on the wrong blog and so on. Therefore a little bit of belated Spring Cleaning is required and I have copied the info from my previous 'George England 2-2-2' blog to this one so that I can have it all in the right place. So, apologies to those who have read the
Today has mostly been tidying up - I've made a roof for the Bagnall out of plastic sheet and strip (some nice therapeutic old-school modelling!), added a whistle, crew, ungummed the buffers, and just generally tidied it up for final assembly.
I've also fettled the AEC to make it fit its chassis properly and added a very bored-looking driver!
Some initial pictures of my latest scheme. Like most of us modelling fanatics I haven't been idle during the lockdown period! These are strange times indeed and I have no doubt that many of us have worried about income and job security so, with the exception of purchasing a second hand Hornby Q1, I have managed to construct the layout with materials and track I had to hand. Folgate Street is a fictitious slice of third rail London and is an old scheme that has been revamped for the purpose.
It took a while for the early railway companies to decide on the best design for points / switches / turnouts. Personally I've always liked the "stub point" design in which the running rails move to set the road, rather than the typical blades. Perhaps it's a design for sleepy sidings rather than high speed main lines:
A broken PECO streamline point seemed an ideal starting point to add a stub point to the layout:
Pulling off the blades was therapeutic for the
Heljan to my knowledge have produced three models of D1000 Western Enterprise painted in its experimental Desert Sand livery. Heljan model number 5204 represented the prototype when it first emerged from Swindon Works in 1961 with no warning panels. Heljan 5213 had small yellow warning panels as applied in November 1962. Both 5204 and 5213 had a satin varnish finish. Heljan 5221 also had small yellow panels but it had a gloss coated ‘ex works’ finish.
When the opportunity present
Not a lot to report for today, I'm back to the CAD in a big way, with a couple of projects on the go that I'm not going to share for now... But good progress is being made, based around a couple of RTR chassis that arrived recently. I've also had more bits turn up to convert a couple of locos with custom chassis to belt drive, which will hopefully make them a bit less fiddly to set up, and hence more reliable. It sacrifices a little bit of smoothness, but I think it will be worth it for better o
So, two weeks & 156 track links in, I realize I have the wrong hafltrack;
What I have here is a Sd. Kfz. 250/8 Neu. What I needed was a Sd. Kfz. 250/8 or the like. The hull is wrong, noticeably so. Should feature a peak about midway down the crew area. I'm really annoyed as I spent much time fiddling to get the tracks assembled. I'll have to keep an eye out for the correct 250 from Dragon, so I can use these tracks I've already finished.
I started bui
Well, there we are, a slap of paint makes all the difference.
Rivets are Archers, easy to apply and they make a big difference on a model like this. No idea what is under that sheet, but it is heavy so this wagon moves as if it does have 16 tons on top. The chains and shackles were fiddly, but add to it all I think.
Catching a bit of evening light.
You can see that this wagon is properly scotched. The
Another project that's been stalled for ages is this Martley F Class, also known as the Second Sondes class. It was printed long enough ago that I was still using the orange resin, but has been sat awaiting a chassis before I build up the body any further. I never attempted building the original chassis design, as it was a long, 3D printed one, so would probably end up at warp city - this needs a redesign! I've got a couple of ideas for the frames, so this might be a good loco to try them out on
Mike Edge has been busy producing a "Super 40" for use on Carlisle. It is very, very heavy and has the "Co" bits on both bogies driven. My task..fit sound and "gentle" weathering
Sound.. Easy peasy as there is enough room to ge a Legomanbiffo Loksound V5 in and a speaker as well with no hacking or bodging to get it to fit!
Then a picture of a close sister engine (D335..this one is D334) in "Diesels on the London Midland"by Michael Welch gave a good starting point
One idea leads to another; in this case, I have tried extending the idea that I showed in an earlier post of adding cladding to a brass-tube boiler by 3D-printing an outer sleeve.
3D-printed boiler cladding
During my early ‘learning curve’ with 3D-printing (i.e. about a year ago), I made some broad-gauge carriages, as described in a short series of blog posts. Printing the complete carriage as a single task had several advantages, such as including internal partitions
The Bagnall 16" takes another step forward - the majority of the painting is done now, the cab interior added, the chassis finished. I'm hardly the best painter in the business, but it's passable from 30cm away, and weathering should hide a few sins. Next jobs are to make the cab roof, add a whistle, and then wait a few months for the nameplates that are on order! I'm quite excited to get a coat of matt on this, which should make it look a lot better, then weathering, but I'll have to wait until
To be honest, I've neglected this project a bit too much. But it's back on the bench now, with handrails, a driver and a couple of other bits added last night. The chassis (version 4? version 5?) is now working nicely too, so looking like we're on the home straight at last.
That paint job is really rather gaudy isn't it? I fancied a change from the nice refined dark blue I normally use, and I think it'll look a lot less toylike once it's been weathered.
This mostly completed railbus has been sat around on my workbench for absolutely ages, just waiting for figures to add to the interior. Painting people is another task I don't particularly enjoy, so I did a whole batch in one go for this and two other locos. Then stuck the roof on, which is loaded up with lead to try and keep the unpowered front wheels turning. This works on the whole, so I'm happy to call it done and it can take it's place on the layout (once the layout is eventually done) as t
After a delay while I ordered some suitable brass tube, I've finally added the front splashers. I didn't fancy trying to bore these out of brass bar, and in any case didn't have any of large enough diameter. Instead, I had the idea of using brass tube. First step was to solder a sheet of 5 thou brass to the end.
This was then cut as close to the tube as possible with a Stanley knife. Then, it was chucked up in the lathe and turned down to the correct diameter, which was slightl
When you start to look at running in boards you soon realise that they are as individual as the stations they adorn, even within the same region. It's quite fascinating when you start studying their various designs. This site has some useful pictures of various Southern running in boards and may be of some interest to anyone modelling the Southern areas: http://www.semgonline.com/infrastr/ribs_01.html
Some aspects of the Hawkhurst branch differed from station to station, the platform
Now that the wagon is weathered, I'm much happier with the shade used, it's darker than it was. Unfortunately this wagon has come out in stripes! It was a reject from the current batch I'm printing for this reason, so it didn't pass QC. I thought I'd build it up myself to test the livery and the new brake design, and it's not nearly as bad as it looks in the photos, so will probably join the layout fleet. Not that I need another ballast wagon, I have three of these now, all in different liveries
This is a quick follow up. In my previous post I showed my third attempt at scratchbuilding in its pristine condition
I have not tried any form of weathering before. But I have now tried using ground pastels. I started by tried it out on an old Superquick card kit of a cottage. This seemed to work ok so after taking a deap breath (not actually that wise when the tale is full of finely ground particles) I 'did' the station, and I am really quite pleased with the result.
I have now moved on from the cheese grater stage with the GVT tram loco and am convinced I made the right decision with scrapping my first attempt - not that this one is perfect and some bits are annoying me but not enough to abandon it now. It is now a very solid and stable body greatly helped by the additional metal but also by my building it upwards while having tack soldered the basic body to a sheet of copper clad PCB which really helped to keep everything straight. Here it is attached to t
A while back, I printed some more experimental bits and pieces, to really test the limits of my printer. Here are the results - a few trees... Not much to look at really, but it illustrates the level of detail you can get out of a resin printer, at least when they behave themselves, which is not a high proportion of the time. Still, I need quite a few trees to hide the transition to backscene on my layout, so this will come in handy - and the useful thing is that I can scale as much as I like in
Superstructure and chassis assemblies are now completed ...enough for me anyway. I shall prepare her for the paint shop and complete the cab backhead detailing then.
................. will be back when she is in ...pure green !!
@joggle2003, I'm afraid you will find that buffalo hasn't visited the forum for five years, so you are unlikely to get a response. Members do disappear from time to time, through anno domini, change of interest, or sometimes going off in a huff or even being banned for bad behaviour. Sometimes they reappear under a different name. As far as I'm aware that's not the case here.
If you click on a member's icon, you are taken to their page, where you can find out when last they posted o