The following day I posted the upgrade to my LNER P2, I found that the 1.5mm square brass had arrived.
So following this, I decided to put my hands to building the Walschaerts valve gear for my P2/2. ( Or is it a P2/3??)
Sitting down to do this required a lot of concentration, however I was able to steadily develop the valve gear. It's easier if the photo's do the talking... Which show each stage of the build. The hardest part was drilling and fitting the pin into the p
Finally had a chance to play a game with the sci-fi Japanese I finished back in April. Over the course of the game, I was informed that model facing is important. Cue the following;
I painted roughly 180 deg. of the base red. Quick & simple. I used Model Master enamel, having found it coats well enough in one go to not waste time on such a simple job.
As painting the red took so little time, I started on another gaming model.
This is a special
Having completed the ship painting and decals I concentrated my efforts on the first set of buildings I had constructed. The station would need several coats of white paint to cover the balsa and in between that I painted the portakabin and security kiosks.
(first layers of white going on with the other buildings getting their first coats)
(the portakabin and kiosks painted up)
Five coats of white paint later and I was ready to paint the roof of
Here's a photo of the loco before the details referred to in the title were added. In this picture the motor is not fitted, so the cab looks empty. I was running it up and down the track under gravity after glueing the wheels into their muffs, checking that the motion was working. Actually I found that it was a bit tight and had to thin the slidebars further. The middle and rear crankpins have not yet been trimmed to length, so the temporary "washer" - made from electrical wire sleeving - grazes
Having been granted a further day to keep the P4 circuit in place, I've been making the most of it, with further running in activity taking place. This time, it's the turn of my P4 16XX pannier, 1650. Here's a rather wobbly panned photo:
This loco was built as a commission for me several years ago, when I thought that I would have a completed P4 layout to take to shows, so it was a means of saving me some modelling time, as I needed to work on the layout itself ('Callow Lane').
Since, finishing the body on my LNER P2 2003, the locomotive was left to look like this:
A nice enough looking model, I am sure you will agree, however the one thing that disappointed me with my model was the wheels. I had hated the "HALO" wheels which my good friend Dan had called them. I must admit I was in the same boat as him. In addition to this the P2 was fitted with a former LNER A3 Tender, which had the lining on the frames. To add to this the P2 Chassis did not
The Barton Road diorama is suitable for a few time frames between 1950 and 1980 so I've been collecting vehicles to pose in the scene alongside some suitable Modelu figures. The 1970's period interests me the most, with Bath Road 03's working the Avonside branch cement works and distillers. First up on the list of vehicles to weather is an Oxford Diecast Mk1 Ford Transit. This is my first attempt at weathering a vehicle and I've been following Mick Bonwick's blog notes on the process. Any fe
Just a quick one.
"Can I arrange to put the switches on the actuator" was, I think, the last question.
So there are "T Slots" in the chassis into which rather small M1.6 bolts fit and M2.0 might fit (I haven't any to try). I would hardly say that it is simple, but it is achievable.
Attached are the STL files for the chassis, the rod and two wheels (one with 10mm throw and the other with 4mm throw).
I am currently running another RTR loco in, this time a Class 24 in P4, which is destined for use on 'Callow Lane'.
Although I do use a rolling road, I prefer, where possible, to undertake running in on actual track.
The P4 circuit is 7' 6" in diameter and is effectively a circle of 'P4 set track', made up from sections of C&L flexi track, curved and held in the correct radius by copper clad sleepers.
I wish I had a permanent space for this, but the dining
January 2015 was the last time I did any modelling and Modelu was still a figment of my imagination. I was working out my 3 months notice from my IT job, living in Wales with my mother and spending my evenings trying to get my new 3D printer to work consistently. This Dukedog project was one of the first successes in those early days, with 3D printed top feed, sandboxes and whistles (these are in the product range). No 9000 was destined for Oswestry Works, but it looks just as good at home on Da
I got hold of some Tillig HO / HOe track and had a play around with it. First impression is that It's very different to the standard PECO / Hornby settrack i'm used to, but it looks great and has an amazing variety of points, especially the HO and HOe mix together. Also had three locos (Peckett, Rushton and Baldwin) tweaked by Olivia's trains and they also turned out to be stunning, especially as it's the first time I've really experienced the full potential of DCC.
It's a first step
I made some progress on the workbench today. I 3D printed a range of bolt heads to add to the timber to hold it all together. I just drilled tiny .7mm holes and stuck them in place. Good(ish) weather meant for a nice afternoon walk and I was able to find a bit of twig which I used to make a log on which to mount the anvil.
I've continued to make more tools for the bench, the range of difference size files and tongs is increasing nicely. From my pictures of old forges it
Have completed the ferry painting I then wanted to try putting on the transfers. I had created the designs on Microsoft publisher having copied the ferry logo off a downloaded jpeg. Unfortunately the jpeg quality wasn't good enough quality just to scale it up so I redrew it using the block shape tools in the software and tries to get the colour as close to the original as possible. I had purchased some transfer paper off the Internet and printed off a sheet.
(transfer paper printed o
Some pics of the ballast after an overnight dry. Looking good (better in real life than in the pics, I think the granular quality of the ballast confuses my phone camera, and it doesn't know what to focus on?)
However, I am genuinely really pleased with the results - I still have little gaps to fill and the odd bump to flatten, but for my first outing it's not looking too shabby! Cleaned a small section of the rail tops as well (Sidings) and that always improves things I think.
A minor update since the last entry and a track plan of sorts as promised. The extra length I have allows the station throat to be stretched over 5 or 6 feet as opposed to being cramped within three feet as before - much smoother curves and hopefully a better alignment and running
First a photo update showing more flexi track laid along the curve:
And now a drawing of the projected layout of the main lines. I'm hopeful of adding a small goods yard off the si
Quick pic of progress made today, the glue on the track centres and immediate edges is now dry, so I've been gradually layering up the ballast in the area between tracks.
The method is pretty simple:
1. Wet baseboard area to be ballasted with very weak Copydex-water-washing up liquid solution.
2. Sprinkle on sand.
3. Drip stronger (1-4) glue solution over sand.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3.
The glue is still wet in these pictures:
As you can s
An odd title you make think, but I shall explain.
Firstly the real one. The CR had large numbers of pig iron wagons, in practice used whenever a low sided wagon was needed. Another of those general types you can never have enough of. This example is built from the 51L kit, though I have used my usual method of a copperclad sub chassis for the W irons and sprung buffers.
Ok, the imaginary wagon. I mentioned that I cut some extra bits when
Managed to get the train ferry funnel completed with a single top coat of black. Will need to do a bit of touching up but basically it's done. I slid in the vehicle deck to get some shots. Just some signage, transfers, and some handrails to finish it off then on to other things
Funnel masked and painted
Masking removed after a few hours and the vehicle deck slid into position
The rear of the ferry where all the tyres hit the deck from the lin
Finally got around to painting the bases for my half-squad of Bolt Action 8th Army;
Just the one coat. Don't want bare plastic, but I also didn't want to spend two weeks layering color. I mounted the figures and based them, too. All done;
I have no idea why the photos are so yellow. Whatever. Maybe a little glib with the sand. If it bothers me, I can pick them clean. Gets them off of my bench, though. Airbrushing is on hold at this point, though.
So this week has been spent carrying on with the train ferry getting copious layers of paint on to try and get a decent finish. Having already applied the blue (4 coats) I then started with the white. This took 5 coats of paint to fully cover the ply, balsa, and blue paint over spill. The moment of truth came when removing the masking tape. Had all that resin prep been worth while and were there any bleeds of paint under the tape?
Pleased to report it all went pretty we
Seen in today’s news, Qantas are apparently offering 7hr flights including flypasts of locations like Great Barrier Reef and Uluru. How bored would you need to be, to do that?
Mind you, Singapore are now starting “covid-secure cruises” with ships half-full, masks mandatory at all times, increased cleaning regimes and “mingling discouraged”. Best of all, vessels make no port calls and passengers are confined to the ship at all times! Form an orderly queue, please...
Having been busy of late, work on the layout came to a bit of a halt for about two weeks.
I've had the materials waiting in the wings (play sand, brown spray paint and Copydex glue) and I'm pleased to say that I've finally ballasted one (the larger) section of the layout!
I've been apprehensive about it for a few reasons: I've never used latex based glue when ballasting before, I'm worried that the "peculiar" smell that Copydex has will linger, I've never used sand as a ballas
Many thanks. The nice thing about painting is if you don't like it you can just paint over it again. This took about 3 coats to get the 'right' grey that I was happy with. I had thought about downloading some of John Wiffen's work but thought I'd give painting a go first as concrete is generally just a stained grey with some movement joints. If I mucked it up I could always stick paper over the top! I drew the line at old Victorian brickwork though which was just to small for my eyes so bought s
I was worried the card might not be robust enough over time to cope with what might get thrown at it in a household with relatively young children and the possibility of taking the layout out on the road. I've used a bit of cardboard here and there to help with curves but this is generally hidden away. I might have used plasticard on certain items if I had my time again to make painting easier without all the prep but that would have made it even more expensive! Much of the balsa has been used t
Your dockside painting looks as good as John Wiffen's photo texture versions on his downloadable dockside walls - nicely done!
Mental note to self - concrete dock walls for train ferry dock on my layout to distinguish from older dock walls!