57xx

No, there's not at the moment. I went down the Mainly Trains 4 wheel coach chassis route as I could see the Ratio chassis would take too much work. As it turned out, I still had a shed load of work to do on the MT one, but being brass, I think it was easier than hacking around a plastic chassis. Depending on which version of the kit you have, you may find various bits of detail missing. I emailed MJT several times about the parts discrepancy but never got an answer.

The Fruit D got a couple of coats of Klear, then when I realised the ends should be black, they got repainted correctly. Then I moved on to putting the lettering on. The GWR roundel just about fits, but is really too large. The small 10T letter fits by virtue of being... small. However when it cam to trying to fit "Fruit. D" on the next plank down I found that only "Fruit." would fit, no room for the "D". I measured the gap available at 7.5mm. The word "Passenger" for the last plank down is 10mm across. Time to toss the HMRS sheet and get some decent transfers! Looks like Railtec will be getting another custom order.

Whelp, the HMRS transfer are a complete waste of time. Everything is oversized and basically useless! I thought I could get away with a slightly larger roundel but when it came to fitting the lettering on the left end, everything is too big to fit the space between the framing.

I've got no answer for you, but I have had the same with Precision LMS bauxite on a couple of vans. I was using white spirits for thinners. I assumed it was either the white spirits or I hadn't given the undercoat (Precision white primer) long enough to dry and it was bleeding through.

Have to say that was my first thought when I read the bit about scorching cardboard. Even a 1/4w resistor will be well within it's limits dropping ~10V at a 10mA current for a single LED. Agreed about never leaving the current limiting resistor out, although I'd caveat that by saying each LED or set of LEDs in series. You can't just slap a lower voltage across them and expect everything to work ok.

Wooo hooo! Get in Lando, nice one McLaren!! The drought is finally over, lets hope they can build on this and get back to former glory.

Ah yes, I didn't think to look at the bottom of the stanchions too, that is very obvious now. I was trying to find a contemporary pic to compare against the one preserved on Russ just posted, I had seen that but wanted to verify that is correctly liveried (e.g. it is marked 12T when they were rated at 10T originally). I painted the underframe in black the other days, trying to be very careful not to get any paint on the ends of the stanchions, looks like I needn't have bothered being careful. I also have given it a good clear coat in preparation for transfers but now have more painting to do first! I have a choice of Weymouth, Slough, Reading, Plymouth and and Worcester that will fit (all small italics. The OOC and "Paddington and Plymouth" in block caps are both waaay to big to fit in the space. I'll probably plump for either Plymouth or Worcester

That's a fabulous model, Rob. Reminds me I haven't put any gas piping on my Fruit D roof, nor rain strips.

Thanks Pete, the lower one is the one from Russell, the middle one from Atkins. The Atkins scan may be of an original print, it's much better than in the book. Looking closer at it, is it a trick of the light or is the end in black? I remember seeing a note of when black ends came in but can't find it again. The HMRS transfers are a bit lacking in appropriate Return To branding, no OOC that will fit and most are in italics and very hard to read when back to front. I might have to take a picture and do some photoshop flipping!

I didn't know Tetbury was on a tectonic fault line!

Didn't Newey "retire" before? He was supposed to have gone off to design Americas Cup yachts. Next thing you know he's back at RB.

Have a look at the driving wheels - are all 6 polished from use or only the outer 4?

On closer examination, not very good self-contained buffers. Obviously compromised by mould removal requirements and thus having a taper to the housing and no lip around the outer end

Yes, but where did I mention chamfers? I was stating it is a good tool for scribing planks. People might want to score planks other than inside a wagon. You can also do light scores you know? Are your prints perfectly flat on the inside? Oh no, they're not are they. :)

Reminds me of the old ads "Get your new widget from us for under £100! ONLY nine nine nine nine!"

I bought one of these to mark out port heights when tuning 2 stroke barrels. Turns on they are quite good (but not brilliant if the point isn't that sharp) for scribing planks

Something looks odd about the G on the GW versions too. For anyone who is strict with their timescales, the XP on the shirt button livery is (if I've interpreted information in Atkins et all correctly) only valid for after 1938 when the XP branding was introduced. If you model anywhere between 1934-38 you'll need to get the fibreglass pencil out.

Going back to the beginning of their life, does anyone have any good picture references for them in the as-built shirtbutton livery? I can find one in Atkins et al (but can't see the Return To branding) and one in Russell's Pictorial history of Coaches.

+1. It will easier to give feedback without it being mixed up between the two models.

From what I see, they actually have a lip around the base of the dome, no sunken number plates, con rods without massive oversize holes for the crank pins, no bunker steps on the early as-built version. I really hope no one wastes their time trying to resurrect the DJM version, I wouldn't touch it with a barge pole. You'd be better off starting from scratch, like Dapol have.

I could discern the word Shop, but not the 2nd word, so perhaps the latter.

Most definitely Hythe Pier.

It's not resistance, it's the forward voltage drop and the forward current that are used to determine the resistor required for a specific supply voltage. One thing no one has mentioned is that if you want to run the LEDs off one resistor, you need to run them in series. If you run them in parallel, you will run the risk of a rogue LED with slightly different characteristics hogging all the current and the others won't light up. The amount of LEDs you can run in series will depend on the forward voltage of the ones you use and the supply current available. This page has info on LEDs to enlighten you further.

You'll be meaning this one here.

And managed to take 44 astronauts to the ISS on the Dragon.